do I need to change PCV valve?

djeepin

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T4R 2012 20K dealership service, been advised to change positive crankcase ventilation valve. I am skeptical that this item needs to be changed. Anyone please?
 
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T4R 2012 20K dealership service, been advised to change positive crankcase ventilation valve. I am skeptical that this item needs to be changed. Anyone please?
At 20K miles, if it is faulty (not likely), they need to get Toyota to pay for it.
 
1st question: why do you recommend replacing this far sooner than the factory maintence manual?

Answer: Some bullshit ka-ka.

2nd question: show me.
 
You won't find a replacement interval (Or even a check/inspection) anywhere in the Maintenance guide, so apparently, it will last forever! Toyota is pretty cryptic about their service intervals....it is kinda annoying!

I am waiting until 80k to replace mine. Even at that mileage, it should be fine, however for $6 and about 10 min of time, it is worth the piece of mind to me.

Just curious, how much are they trying to charge you to replace it. Sounds like they are just trying to make a quick buck.
 
Do you have a rough idle? check engine light on? Any other signs of a bad PCV valve? If not, sounds like an attempted cash grab by the dealer. Sometimes you need to set your service rep straight so they wont try to sell you BS in the future :whip:
 
So you have a 2 year old vehicle with less than 36k miles.....why are you being asked to replace a part that should be covered under the 3yr/36k mile warranty? They should replace it and let you be on your way.
 
PCV valves can clog up if you do alot of short trips, or if you neglect your oil changes, sludge can build up in them. If you are going to remove it to clean it or check it, they are so cheap, you might as well just put a new one in.

There is no way your dealer checked your PCV and determined it needed to be replaced, because it is more work to do that, then to just put a new one in. That dealership must tell its service writers to push this job every 20k, because it literally just takes minutes to replace, and the new part is $6. I would keep a close eye on any service this dealer tries to sell you.

If you are bored and want to read up on PCV valves, here is more then you probley ever would want to know.

Replacing the PCV valve
 
Thank you all for your opinions. About dealership: let them do their business as they see it fit. I decline this service, pick up valve at parts department ($7) and will think about it. Thank you.
 
I replaced my wife's PCV valve (2012) this morning at 30K miles. It was over-torqued and seemed cross-threaded from the factory (it was difficult to back out the whole time).

When I installed the new valve (OEM), it didn't seat all the way down to the valve cover. If someone can check their factory installed valve to see if there is a gap (doesn't look like it seats all the way to the valve cover), please let me know. I don't want to torque it down anymore without this info. Thank you!

Here is a picture of the original PCV valve. You can see how shiny the top threads are, making me think it wasn't fully seated.

Next is a picture of how the new valve is seated.
 

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Looks like a "tapered" pipe thread to me. Just crank it in till tight. Should be good to go.

Don't crank it TOO tight! Spec is only about 12 ft-lb if I recall correctly.

Ask me how I know what happens if you torque a tapered thread fitting into an engine block too far (oil pressure sender in my woeful case.)
 
Dirty PCV valve can crud up the throttle body's plate. This can lead to other problems.

It's a simple DIY job.

If you are going to change it, buy it from a dealer.
 
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Sorry to resurrect an old thread. Can’t seem to search in my FSM on the iPad.
Is the 12ft-lb torque spec correct? The threads should be dry, no thread lock or anti-seize. Correct?
Doing a little preventive maintenance. Thanks.
 
I replaced one on a 2GR-FE engine used in many Camry, Avalon, Sienna; Rav4, etc. I did not bother with a torque wrench. I just snugged it down a bit - not getting crazy.
If you have a torque spec, from a manual, I would use it.
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread. Can’t seem to search in my FSM on the iPad.
Is the 12ft-lb torque spec correct? The threads should be dry, no thread lock or anti-seize. Correct?
Doing a little preventive maintenance. Thanks.

In the 4th gen V6 the torq 20 ft-lb, 19mm deep socket.
 

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