do I need to change PCV valve?
- Thread starter djeepin
- Start date
I'm no mechanic, but I wouldn't use red loctite. I used blue in mine.
Hope all the engineers at Toyota are wrong and I'm right :doh:
Pipe threads are technically meant to seal without any sealer or dope or anything.
A couple wraps of teflon tape and torqued to the right spec would be enough at most.
PCV valves are really just metered intake leaks and a minute more won't make a difference at all. Of course one doesn't want it to come loose and fall out either.
Toyota is overthinking this. :nod:
1000MPH
Senior Member
Got around to replacing the PCV last weekend. $5 for the part, $45 for a set of 1/2” drive deep impact sockets I’ve had my eye on.
The hose and clamp is really easy to pull out of the way with fingers, no pliers needed.
Yes, pulling the old valve is an odd feeling with resistance most of the way. Examining it tells me there’s really no need to replace these unless you’ve pushed the oil changes to the extreme. It was in good shape. I observed there was remnants of threadlock on the last few threads so that’s what I put on the new one. I used the Loctite 271. I doubt even two threads with Loctite made it to their mating surface.
Torque wrench set at 20lbs and, as expected, made it pretty far past hand tight with the tapered threads.
No issues to speak of.
Not sure why I’m posting except so I can remember I did it at 111,000 miles 15 years from now.
Pic one is the pulled plug
Pic two is the original plug before removing.
Last pic is the new one installed.
The hose and clamp is really easy to pull out of the way with fingers, no pliers needed.
Yes, pulling the old valve is an odd feeling with resistance most of the way. Examining it tells me there’s really no need to replace these unless you’ve pushed the oil changes to the extreme. It was in good shape. I observed there was remnants of threadlock on the last few threads so that’s what I put on the new one. I used the Loctite 271. I doubt even two threads with Loctite made it to their mating surface.
Torque wrench set at 20lbs and, as expected, made it pretty far past hand tight with the tapered threads.
No issues to speak of.
Not sure why I’m posting except so I can remember I did it at 111,000 miles 15 years from now.
Pic one is the pulled plug
Pic two is the original plug before removing.
Last pic is the new one installed.
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kenwilliams0803
New member
I did mine at 140k. It was a little sticker than the new one in terms of the valve action. But it was by no means clogged or stuck. Still glad I did it because there was a difference in the action of the 2.
Drcoffee
Senior Member
I ordered a new toyota pcv valve but to buy time I decided to clean mine with 222,000 miles on it. I used brake cleaner ans kept shaking it until the valve seemed free. Not convinced I did a good job, I soaked it in acetone for 30 minutes. The acetone went from clear to coffee colored. Its clean now but I believe the spring is rusty, so I will replace it when the new one arrives.
Acetone really did remove the coked oil. Im not sure why we would worry about it spinning out when its clamped by a rubber hose. Tight enough to seal is more than enough IMO. Thread sealant might be a good idea.
Acetone really did remove the coked oil. Im not sure why we would worry about it spinning out when its clamped by a rubber hose. Tight enough to seal is more than enough IMO. Thread sealant might be a good idea.
