PeoplecallmeIan
New member
Gotcha..i just want the full 2 inches. I still need to decide if I want to go with a rear bumper before I go any further or just get the coils and deal with it later again.
Dobinsons 5th Gen T4R Suspension options - from Exit Offroad
- Thread starter Crikeymike
- Start date
Gotcha..i just want the full 2 inches. I still need to decide if I want to go with a rear bumper before I go any further or just get the coils and deal with it later again.
Texas Aggie
New member
After reading through each page in this thread, I decided to go with Dobinsons on all corners, rather than the Bilstein 5100 setup and spacer that I was originally thinking of doing. Mike was extremely helpful and quick to respond to all my emails.
I went with:
C59-300
C59-599
GS59-700
GS59-705
This will be going on my 2014 TEP with 265/70/17 General Grabber AT2s on stock wheels (for now). Really excited to see how it turns out.
Thanks again [MENTION=148378]Dobinsons Mike[/MENTION]!
I went with:
C59-300
C59-599
GS59-700
GS59-705
This will be going on my 2014 TEP with 265/70/17 General Grabber AT2s on stock wheels (for now). Really excited to see how it turns out.
Thanks again [MENTION=148378]Dobinsons Mike[/MENTION]!
I've been running Dobinsons springs and shocks for around 18k miles now and they've been great. Highly reccomend
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
What springs and shocks did you go with? Sorry if it was mentioned.
Question about how my springs are oriented on the 5100’s. I had a buddy assemble these for me and am curious if the top stud being slightly off center with the strut bushing/base is going to cause issues or if that isn’t an issue.
Attachments
Not an issue. Mount them up and, if necessary, you can rotate the strut body to align with LCA. Insert a long socket extension through the eye and tap with a rubber mallet.
mgproudfit
Member
Mike, thanks for the info. For some reason I just saw this reply. What's your ETA on those 1" TRD front coils? Id certainly be interested if we're not talking too long of a timeframe.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
1" TRD Pro lift coils are coming the first week of May.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
Yeah, you'll be fine, the other fella here already gave a perfect response. Mount them up and rotate the bottom mount a fraction if necessary to help it drop into the mount in the lower control arm easier. You don't want that lower mount twisted and under tension while trying to put the bolt thru, if you can help it.
But you're probably already done with the install!! I love that color combo, I wish our shocks were silver!! hahahaha
Crikeymike
Senior Member
[MENTION=96425]JSparky[/MENTION] is that what you had to take off when we custom made the C59-701V coils for you?
I believe our C59-701V are the strongest on the market, but no one has Icon's specs, so I can't confirm it unfortunately. We just have to go by what other guys have run and tried or taken off. The 701V's are made for 600LBS of constant weight on a 5th Gen while keeping 3" of lift. You'll have over 3" with less weight than that.
JSparky
New member
Nope, I started with AllPro 3.5” then your 677V. The 677’s were fine for me unloaded but sagged/bottomed out under heavy load. I sold those to [MENTION=56922]NoOneBetter[/MENTION] and still have the super heavies you made me.. been happy so far.
Edit: I wil say I never considered the Icon Overland coils cause I was concerned about the lack of lift height.
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Haven't done the install yet due to weather but tomorrow is the day I am planning on. What do you mean when you say I don't want the lower mount twisted and under tension while trying to put the bolt through?
Based on what I am reading, I'll mount the top, and then insert an extension into the lower mount and turn it until it lines up and falls into the LCA, is that the correct way of doing it, or would that cause it to be twisted and under tension? I'm going to do the install by lowering the LCA by loosening the cam bolts.
MossJenks
New member
I think you've got it - correct me if I'm wrong, Mike. He just means to rotate it before trying to mount into the LCA to make it easier on yourself instead of trying to just jam it in crooked. Once you get it all mounted up everything is going to settle in and sorta "self-align" anyhow after you hit a few bumps. You don't need to be worried about twisted bushings in this location.
Speaking of twisted bushings - make sure that the weight of the truck is resting on the suspension before you tighten the lower control arms back up.
Speaking of twisted bushings - make sure that the weight of the truck is resting on the suspension before you tighten the lower control arms back up.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
:yo:
Yes, that's exactly what I was going to say. Align it straight before dropping it into the mount (with the directions you already gave), so you don't get super frustrated and bust some knuckles.
And yes, always tighten with the weight of the truck on the suspension, and on the ground. It can preload the bushings if they're tightened in the air and cause them to wear out prematurely.
aelarson
New member
You'll have to post when those are completed. It sounds like a lot of guys are excited for those coils, myself included! :clap2: Thanks for the update!
mgproudfit
Member
I should have my set on before then FWIW.
aelarson
New member
Can't wait to see it. Keep us posted!
Thanks! So I should just hand tighten all bolts while in the air and then drop it down on the ground and torque them down? Or is this specific to the bolt/nut that holds the bushing in the LCA or does it include that and the two bolts that hold the LCA to the lower ball joint?
Also, I found the pro install instructions, but am a little confused on the bolts/nuts loosened on the alignment cams. Do I loosen only the single front bolt head and the single very rear nut? Or do I loosen both bolt and nut on the front of the arm and both bolt and nut on the rear of the arm?
Attachments
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MossJenks
New member
Well, the bolts and nuts are connected so when you're loosening one, you're loosening both. In general you want to hold the bolt head and twist the nut, but that's not always possible and OK if not. IIRC it's hard to get to some of the nuts in this case and you'll likely find those instructions to be accurate.
You only have to worry about bushing bolts. It doesn't matter on anything that's just holding metal to metal. The two that hold the joint to the arm can be tightened whenever, as can the three around the outside of the top hats.
Something I like to do in this case is to leave the wheel off, then jack up the LCA until the truck comes off the jack stand closest to that corner. That way the suspension is compressed as it would be if the truck was on the ground, but you have more room to work without the wheel/tire in the way. Be careful here obviously, and just jack it up just enough for the weight to barely come off the stand (1/4 inch or so I guess) - so if your jack comes down or whatever there's still something holding the vehicle up. In the back I just jack up the whole rear axle this way and do both sides. I can't remember if that's necessary or not when changing rear shocks on a 5th gen though....
These are pretty big so you might want to use a wrench to get them a little tighter than hand-tight before weighting the suspension. Not much though.
You only have to worry about bushing bolts. It doesn't matter on anything that's just holding metal to metal. The two that hold the joint to the arm can be tightened whenever, as can the three around the outside of the top hats.
Something I like to do in this case is to leave the wheel off, then jack up the LCA until the truck comes off the jack stand closest to that corner. That way the suspension is compressed as it would be if the truck was on the ground, but you have more room to work without the wheel/tire in the way. Be careful here obviously, and just jack it up just enough for the weight to barely come off the stand (1/4 inch or so I guess) - so if your jack comes down or whatever there's still something holding the vehicle up. In the back I just jack up the whole rear axle this way and do both sides. I can't remember if that's necessary or not when changing rear shocks on a 5th gen though....
These are pretty big so you might want to use a wrench to get them a little tighter than hand-tight before weighting the suspension. Not much though.
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