Can I use the Dobinsons 2" lift springs (314 Fronts/327 Rear) and keep the shocks on my TRD PRO?
No, the OEM shock diameter on the Pro isn't compatible with the "standard" Dobinsons springs for the front. Also, I'm not positive, but the 327 rear spring might be out of the range of travel for the OEM rear shock
Just got my Dobinsons installed and they are fantastic! I got mine coated in red (sacrilegious I know) but now they match my JBA UCAs. Mike was fantastic helping me choose the right spring for my (future) needs. Quality product and service for sure!
Just looking for opinions.
I currently have this setup.
Dobinson’s c59-505 in rear and c59-314 in the front so it’s a 1.5 lift in the rear and 3” in the front.
I have dobinsons UCA’s as well
While my fender gap appears equal front to back, I actually have a smidge of reverse rake.
Should I go 1/2” taller in the rear or 1” ?
I have no plans to add more weight. I just want a smidge more rake
Pic for current stance
Thanks
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pictures man, pictures!
I would go lower in the front, preferably a full inch if you want to haul any loads without a reverse rake.
I don't think that 3/2.5 will get you a single trail over 2/1.5 but it will stress more various components.
Personally, I am fine with my 1.25/1 for everything I want to drive in AZ or UT. We drove Backaway to CK, Broken Arrow, Fins and Things, among others, with no lift, for example. I did appreciate the 1.25/1 lift on a loaded vehicle on Elephant Hill but otherwise I find the quality of the aftermarket springs a bigger upgrade than the lift itself. By this I mean that the Dobinsons (or Eibach) springs take much better on dips and rocks and steps and that between two 4Rs at the same height where one has stock coils and one Dobinsons coils, the latter will be hitting less than the fully stock one.
I tried but ALL my phone pics are evidently too large and the stupid uploader doesnt seem to autoconvert to the allowable size. Am I doing something wrong? The other forums Ive been with just resized them when they were uploaded..
Sounds like a good setup. If you do think you will add the rear hitch mounted carrier, you might want to go with C59-505 on the rear so that you can support the extra leverage that it adds.lots of pages here on useful info I am sure, but I want to confirm I am looking at the right info for the lift I want to achieve. No front/ rear bumpers, No winch, No drawer system. Maybe a hitch mounted spare tire carrier down the road.
I have a 2010 SR5 4X4 all stock
Fronts -
C59-302 - Stock front end load, 2.5" lift (or comfort option C59-448 for 3" lift). 395/395mm, 17mm wire, 586LB
Rear -
C59-599 - Stock rear end, 1.0"-1.25" lift (keeps rear end low, allowing to help level the vehicle rake with 2" front lift). 390/390mm, 17mm wire, 220LB or C59-505 - Stock rear end load, 1.5" lift. 405/405mm, 17mm wire, 220LB
Paired with -
GS59-700 - Twin Tube, fixed mount (not adjustable), suits 0-2.5" lift (21.3" extended length), can be used on stock height or lifted vehicle, use with OE or aftermarket coils, coil seat mount same as OE
&
GS59-701 - Twin Tube, suits 0-2.5" lift. 605mm extended, 362mm compressed
I will run TC UCA's.
Anything else???
TIA
Sounds like a good setup. If you do think you will add the rear hitch mounted carrier, you might want to go with C59-505 on the rear so that you can support the extra leverage that it adds.
Upgraded my 675V to 701V prior to my trip to Moab. Very happy with the height they give even loaded up. We carried 10 days worth of gear and food and still had a little rake in the rear. Thanks again, Mike!
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How does it handle unloaded in the rear?