Dobinsons IMS Struts and Shocks - Adjustable Height Monotubes - 5th Gen 4Runners

[arehman11]

Mike, I recently noticed my black dust cover on the front driver side has fallen down. Is there an easy way to get this pushed back up and locked in place without disassembly?

 

[Crikeymike]

Mike, I recently noticed my black dust cover on the front driver side has fallen down. Is there an easy way to get this pushed back up and locked in place without disassembly?

Unfortunately not, there's a washer that goes into the upper lip of the boot to hold it up there, and there's no way to access it and get the dust boot back on there with the coil in the way

 

[arehman11]

Unfortunately not, there's a washer that goes into the upper lip of the boot to hold it up there, and there's no way to access it and get the dust boot back on there with the coil in the way

Thanks! I’m trying to get a better understanding of how this all goes together since I’ll be doing this myself and had these per assembled. Do you have a video link or diagram to show how the IMS are assembled?

 

[Crikeymike]

Thanks! I’m trying to get a better understanding of how this all goes together since I’ll be doing this myself and had these per assembled. Do you have a video link or diagram to show how the IMS are assembled?

Links to how they're done and the video are all on this page
Instructions - Exit Offroad

 

[Nickademus78]

I'm looking to do the Dobinsons IMS lift kit. 2015 4R SR5 with 3rd row seating. Not looking to go crazy but I do want to go to 285/70R17 when tires are do maybe next year. I also want to be able to use a RTT. I'd like to not have to change out the UCA yet but could do them next year before tire and maybe even new rims. Something around the 2.5f/2r is what I was thinking. This is my daily driver but want to feel capable off road. Thanks

Here’s a 2015 3rd row with IMS. 302s at the 213mm setting and 327s on the rear, it rides great even without a load. 285s and the UCAs haven’t been upgraded in this photo. Alignment was good and tracked fine.

 

[somenoise]

hey all, looking for some advice here. I recently had complete IMS suspension kit installed by a shop with a great reputation that was specifically recommended by Dobinsons. I must admit I was a bit hasty in inspecting the work during pickup (something I know better than to do (or so I thought) but am now concerned that maybe the bushings were not tightened enough during the install.

I took them on a mild fairly rutted trail and they were squeaking like crazy. I gave the bushings a closer look and they look not nearly as tightened down as I've seen elsewhere. I've attached pictures below.

Couple questions:
1. Am I right that these don't look right?
2. Is this something I can just tighten on my own or do I need to take it back to the shop and ask them to re-do them?

all input/recs are greatly appreciated

 

[str8flexed]

I’m no suspension expert but I did have Dobinsons and Bilsteins before which I installed myself. First, I think the squeaking is probably more the UCA rubber bushings - try jumping up and down at the front of your car and see if that’s the case.

Also, I don’t think the nuts are TOO loose although they could probably be tightened a few turns. I had mine just like yours then squished them down a bit and felt no difference and had no damage I could see. The way the Dobinsons rubber bushings are, they are kind of a taller cylindrical shape, I don’t think they will flatten and expand to fill the entire metal washer (but I could be wrong). The stock 4Runner and Bilstein rubber washers are shorter and wider/fatter so those can squish down to match the diameter of the washer easily.

hey all, looking for some advice here. I recently had complete IMS suspension kit installed by a shop with a great reputation that was specifically recommended by Dobinsons. I must admit I was a bit hasty in inspecting the work during pickup (something I know better than to do (or so I thought) but am now concerned that maybe the bushings were not tightened enough during the install.

I took them on a mild fairly rutted trail and they were squeaking like crazy. I gave the bushings a closer look and they look not nearly as tightened down as I've seen elsewhere. I've attached pictures below.

Couple questions:
1. Am I right that these don't look right?
2. Is this something I can just tighten on my own or do I need to take it back to the shop and ask them to re-do them?

all input/recs are greatly appreciated

 

[Crikeymike]

hey all, looking for some advice here. I recently had complete IMS suspension kit installed by a shop with a great reputation that was specifically recommended by Dobinsons. I must admit I was a bit hasty in inspecting the work during pickup (something I know better than to do (or so I thought) but am now concerned that maybe the bushings were not tightened enough during the install.

I took them on a mild fairly rutted trail and they were squeaking like crazy. I gave the bushings a closer look and they look not nearly as tightened down as I've seen elsewhere. I've attached pictures below.

Couple questions:
1. Am I right that these don't look right?
2. Is this something I can just tighten on my own or do I need to take it back to the shop and ask them to re-do them?

all input/recs are greatly appreciated

Yes, those are not properly tightened at all. The fronts will have a chance for the strut stud to rub sideways on the mount. The rear can do the same thing.

Both can be tightened easily while the truck is on the ground. The upper bushing should bulge out to be about the same thickness as the top washer as a visual reference.

During my strut assembly video, I go over the fronts in detail, that the nut goes down all the way until the threads end:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjF37uC4n-M&feature=youtu.be

They should also be informed that their ~$100 labor rate doesn't include qualified technicians and your $2k suspension could give you problems because of it.

Also, I can't tell from the photos well enough, but the UCA washers are like cups and they need to curve outwards away from the bushing, not inwards. Or that can also make a noise.

 

[somenoise]

Yes, those are not properly tightened at all. The fronts will have a chance for the strut stud to rub sideways on the mount. The rear can do the same thing.

Both can be tightened easily while the truck is on the ground. The upper bushing should bulge out to be about the same thickness as the top washer as a visual reference.

During my strut assembly video, I go over the fronts in detail, that the nut goes down all the way until the threads end:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjF37uC4n-M&feature=youtu.be

They should also be informed that their ~$100 labor rate doesn't include qualified technicians and your $2k suspension could give you problems because of it.

Also, I can't tell from the photos well enough, but the UCA washers are like cups and they need to curve outwards away from the bushing, not inwards. Or that can also make a noise.

Thanks Mike, the video is helpful. I'd seen it before but these were so different (and like I said the shop has such a good rep) that I was concerned I had misunderstood or gotten something wrong. I'm guessing my job got handed to the new tech.

I'll check the UCA washer when I get home; hopefully they are fine but if they're facing away, I'm guessing that's definitely a take-back-to-the-shop situation?

 

[Crikeymike]

Thanks Mike, the video is helpful. I'd seen it before but these were so different (and like I said the shop has such a good rep) that I was concerned I had misunderstood or gotten something wrong. I'm guessing my job got handed to the new tech.

I'll check the UCA washer when I get home; hopefully they are fine but if they're facing away, I'm guessing that's definitely a take-back-to-the-shop situation?

Oh, and make sure to use an allen key to hold the strut shaft from spinning when you rotate the top nut.

Yeah, if the washers are curved inwards towards the middle of the UCA's, then they'll need to take those out and flip them (not a quick job unfortunately).

I had a guy last year that was chasing a squeak forever with everything else verified and done up right, and it was the UCA washers facing the wrong way that was the problem. When you tighten up the bushings first, see if the noise goes away, as I bet it will.

 

[ubertoyotax]

Don't overtighten them though either, can cause the bushings to split or reduce their function

 

[somenoise]

Oh, and make sure to use an allen key to hold the strut shaft from spinning when you rotate the top nut.

Yeah, if the washers are curved inwards towards the middle of the UCA's, then they'll need to take those out and flip them (not a quick job unfortunately).

I had a guy last year that was chasing a squeak forever with everything else verified and done up right, and it was the UCA washers facing the wrong way that was the problem. When you tighten up the bushings first, see if the noise goes away, as I bet it will.

Thanks for this. Do you happen to know what size allen key size I'll need? I just realized my regular allen keys don't have the clearance in the wheel well to fit, so I'll have to order some slim ones instead. Want to make sure I get the right size.

I also checked the UCA washers and the last bit flares out away from the UCA, so it looks like those are on ok.

 

[Crikeymike]

Thanks for this. Do you happen to know what size allen key size I'll need? I just realized my regular allen keys don't have the clearance in the wheel well to fit, so I'll have to order some slim ones instead. Want to make sure I get the right size.

I also checked the UCA washers and the last bit flares out away from the UCA, so it looks like those are on ok.

I don't recall the size, sorry. I always just used my metric allen set. Probably a 5mm or 6mm, but I'm not sure.

 

[rhadam]

Mike, I just installed a C4 lo pro bumper and a Smittybilt 10k synthetic. Weight added (estimate): C4 bumper 75lbs, Winch 67lbs, LineX coating 10lbs.

Up front i'm running C59-302 coils and GS59-700 twin tube. You list 110-150lbs on the coils to drop the 2.5" to 2". If i'm at that 150lb top end, would it make sense to just purchase (thank you black friday sale) a heavier coil?

 

[Crikeymike]

Mike, I just installed a C4 lo pro bumper and a Smittybilt 10k synthetic. Weight added (estimate): C4 bumper 75lbs, Winch 67lbs, LineX coating 10lbs.

Up front i'm running C59-302 coils and GS59-700 twin tube. You list 110-150lbs on the coils to drop the 2.5" to 2". If i'm at that 150lb top end, would it make sense to just purchase (thank you black friday sale) a heavier coil?

If you just want to come back up to the same height approximately, then the C59-314's would be the way to go. Unless you have adjustable height struts on it, then you can just wind those up a little to bring it back up.

 

[Crikeymike]

Dobinsons sale starts Monday the 8th. Click here for full details:
November / Black Friday Sales - Exit Offroad

 

[somenoise]

I don't recall the size, sorry. I always just used my metric allen set. Probably a 5mm or 6mm, but I'm not sure.

It ended up being a 6mm, in case anyone else needs to do this. I tightened up the fronts as much as I could without intense resistance, does this look good or do I need to force it more? As for the rears, the nut would not budge at all. Even though they aren't as wide as the washer, do you think this probably means they are where they should be or am I looking at biting the bullet and taking it back in to get checked out/fixed all around? Thanks again for the help.

 

[Crikeymike]

It ended up being a 6mm, in case anyone else needs to do this. I tightened up the fronts as much as I could without intense resistance, does this look good or do I need to force it more? As for the rears, the nut would not budge at all. Even though they aren't as wide as the washer, do you think this probably means they are where they should be or am I looking at biting the bullet and taking it back in to get checked out/fixed all around? Thanks again for the help.

Fronts look good now.

Rears, if the nut won't go any further then it may already be bottomed out (correct). It doesn't look like it from the bushing-to-washer size, but the nut would be the way to tell. It's so close now that I'd say it's fine. The other option is to take the nut, top washer and bushing off and look inside to make sure the stud is properly centered in the hole too, then put it back together.

If the centering washer that goes under the shock mount doesn't go into the mount properly, then the stud of the shock has a chance to ride against the mount, and makes a terrible sound and can damage the stud, eventually breaking it off.

 

[Endle55_5earch]

Just installed the Dobinsons IMS IMS59-50700 front and IMS59-50701 rear with C59-302 front spring and C59-325 rear spring.

Rides much better than the Bilstein TRD PRO. Will post pictures once I get it out in the wild.

 

[Endle55_5earch]

Follow up post. I have just under 2" front and 2" even on the back (full size spare). Pics: