BrianSD_42
New member
If those holes/dips/marks whatever are merely cosmetic then couldn't you just fill them with jb weld and then after 24 hours sand it down?
Doc's ZRV(Pic Heavy)
- Thread starter Doc2012
- Start date
Doc2012
Senior Member
I can. I could also use Bondo.
The problem with that is I have to wait.
I want to get this one done tomorrow, and have mine just about done.
If I had the JB weld, or the Bondo, I would've done it last night so it would be ready for me when I get off duty tomorrow. I don't have them though, and that time is something that I don't want to wait around for. LOL.
I need to get these things done, so I can continue working on my tank and bumpers and sliders.
Doc2012
Senior Member
Update.
Here's Josh's system. Got a little done on mine today, but not near what I wanted to. Gonna work on it this week.
I wanted to see how that "Spray on bed liner" worked, and what it looked like.
I used that on the inside of the drawers.
Honestly, I think it'll work a lot better than that rubberized under coat crap that I put on the truck last time.
Anyone have any experience with it? I'd rather get six of those cans, than have to get the roll on kit, along with a drop cloth and whatever else I would need to get that stuff to work out right.
Here's the box after one coat.
And here it is all painted up.
Obviously, gotta do a couple touch up spots. Some of the silver sprayed over onto the side of the drawers, and the wind here today brought in flower pedals and pollen all over.
Still think it turned out ok.
Whatcha think?
Here's Josh's system. Got a little done on mine today, but not near what I wanted to. Gonna work on it this week.
I wanted to see how that "Spray on bed liner" worked, and what it looked like.
I used that on the inside of the drawers.
Honestly, I think it'll work a lot better than that rubberized under coat crap that I put on the truck last time.
Anyone have any experience with it? I'd rather get six of those cans, than have to get the roll on kit, along with a drop cloth and whatever else I would need to get that stuff to work out right.
Here's the box after one coat.
And here it is all painted up.
Obviously, gotta do a couple touch up spots. Some of the silver sprayed over onto the side of the drawers, and the wind here today brought in flower pedals and pollen all over.
Still think it turned out ok.
Whatcha think?
blizz86
New member
Update.
Here's Josh's system. Got a little done on mine today, but not near what I wanted to. Gonna work on it this week.
I wanted to see how that "Spray on bed liner" worked, and what it looked like.
I used that on the inside of the drawers.
Honestly, I think it'll work a lot better than that rubberized under coat crap that I put on the truck last time.
Anyone have any experience with it? I'd rather get six of those cans, than have to get the roll on kit, along with a drop cloth and whatever else I would need to get that stuff to work out right.
Here's the box after one coat.
And here it is all painted up.
Obviously, gotta do a couple touch up spots. Some of the silver sprayed over onto the side of the drawers, and the wind here today brought in flower pedals and pollen all over.
Still think it turned out ok.
Whatcha think?
I always started looking through your thread and mod thread but something always took my attention away. Now that i finally looked through it, i have come to a conclusion. You are a master at what you do. :hail:
4Running Daily
New member
blizz86
New member
Its true right??
Rudy97
New member
I just realized it's like I did no work on these lol. I feel the need to thank Brock (@Doc2012) for being the great friend he is and ignoring his own half finished projects just to work on mine :bigok: Hopefully I'll be capable of paying him back soon...he's just too damn good at everything... :thumb:
Doc2012
Senior Member
Thanks Rudy, blizz86, & 4Running Daily. There's going to be plenty more to come, so just stay tuned. 
Here's the finished product in the back of the truck.
Sorry for the crappy iPhone pic. Maybe [MENTION=81971]Rudy97[/MENTION] can take take some better ones with his fancy shmancy camera tomorrow in the daylight.
I've come to a conclusion on mine. I want to make it bigger.
I found some drawer slides at Home Depot that were 14" and full extension. I'm going to make my new drawers 14" deep and 20" wide. Instead of the small 10" deep and 18.5" wide. Still only going to be 8 or whatever inches high, but the 4" depth and the 1.5" width should make the drawers bigger.
What do you guys think?
Oh yeah.
Got some cardboard today from the hospital. They're probably about 8' long and 3' wide. Stand by for bumper fabrication.........
Here's the finished product in the back of the truck.
Sorry for the crappy iPhone pic. Maybe [MENTION=81971]Rudy97[/MENTION] can take take some better ones with his fancy shmancy camera tomorrow in the daylight.
I've come to a conclusion on mine. I want to make it bigger.
I found some drawer slides at Home Depot that were 14" and full extension. I'm going to make my new drawers 14" deep and 20" wide. Instead of the small 10" deep and 18.5" wide. Still only going to be 8 or whatever inches high, but the 4" depth and the 1.5" width should make the drawers bigger.
What do you guys think?
Oh yeah.
Got some cardboard today from the hospital. They're probably about 8' long and 3' wide. Stand by for bumper fabrication.........
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Rudy97
New member
You're right, thats just god awful!
Here's some in the day light. (please excuse the mess) :cheers:
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Rudy97
New member
It actually wasn't too bad, just had to put it in through the hatch. We also had to unbolt the latch that the rear seat back attaches to and the molding around it. Gave plenty of room
Doc2012
Senior Member
Ok guys. Here's some stuff that I did tonight.
Back story:
Those of you that have been paying attention to this build (and mod) thread, know that I have a BudBuild clocking ring, a 1.5" body lift, and a custom transmission crossmember lifting the tranny 1.5", and an engine lift, lifting the engine 1.5" to keep it inline with the tranny.
Now, the problem I've been having is that I can hear, and feel, the t-case through the body. Listening to someone, I was told that I wouldn't need more than a 1.5" lift to clear the closking ring, but that was wrong. The body lift needs to be AT LEAST 2".
After looking at the body a couple times from underneath, I saw where the t-case was hitting the body. Didn't really think anything of it, thought that the t-case would clearance itself. In a way, it has. but not in a good way.
Turns out the t-case was rubbing the body so much that it wore a whole in the body.
So, I decided to fix it.
Here's what I've gotten done so far.
Up can see a little hit where it was rubbing the body in these two pictures.
And here you can see the work in progress. Notice how the t-case is almost above the body, if not just a cunt hair over. Still got some work to do, and that will be completed tomorrow. Ran out of daylight......
More pics and progress tomorrow.....
Back story:
Those of you that have been paying attention to this build (and mod) thread, know that I have a BudBuild clocking ring, a 1.5" body lift, and a custom transmission crossmember lifting the tranny 1.5", and an engine lift, lifting the engine 1.5" to keep it inline with the tranny.
Now, the problem I've been having is that I can hear, and feel, the t-case through the body. Listening to someone, I was told that I wouldn't need more than a 1.5" lift to clear the closking ring, but that was wrong. The body lift needs to be AT LEAST 2".
After looking at the body a couple times from underneath, I saw where the t-case was hitting the body. Didn't really think anything of it, thought that the t-case would clearance itself. In a way, it has. but not in a good way.
Turns out the t-case was rubbing the body so much that it wore a whole in the body.
So, I decided to fix it.
Here's what I've gotten done so far.
Up can see a little hit where it was rubbing the body in these two pictures.
And here you can see the work in progress. Notice how the t-case is almost above the body, if not just a cunt hair over. Still got some work to do, and that will be completed tomorrow. Ran out of daylight......
More pics and progress tomorrow.....
Doc2012
Senior Member
Just a teaser....
Here ya go guys.
Couple shots.
Before:
After:
Sticking out:
Comparision:
I need to do some trimming. There is an article on TLT about clearing a Tacoma or 4Runner for 35s at ANY height. I'm going to take that, and adapt it to my 37s.
The tires fit in the wells perfectly; slight rubbing on the bumper corners.
At full Stuff, the back tires hit the bumper, obviously, and right at the rear door. They fit perfectly well inside the wheel well. Kinda surprised me....
The Front, obviously, has issues at full lock with the frame. Gonna do some research on that one and figure out what I can do. The Bumper, obviously, and the firewall. That's really where the TLT clearing article comes into play.
Basically, I'm going to take 3/4" off ALL AROUND the wheel wells. The front, I can add some kind of door stripping from the local parts place. The rear, I'm going to weld 3/16" rod around the wheel well, to give it a cleen look, and keep the sheet metal from slicing into the tires.
AND, here's some from yesterday. Kinda weird that all the Toyota's were silver......
Again, HUGE thank you to Rob, [MENTION=59542]Singtoe[/MENTION] for letting us join in on the wheeling, as well as ffor the 37s! Definately need to do it again some time!
Here ya go guys.
Couple shots.
Before:
After:
Sticking out:
Comparision:
I need to do some trimming. There is an article on TLT about clearing a Tacoma or 4Runner for 35s at ANY height. I'm going to take that, and adapt it to my 37s.
The tires fit in the wells perfectly; slight rubbing on the bumper corners.
At full Stuff, the back tires hit the bumper, obviously, and right at the rear door. They fit perfectly well inside the wheel well. Kinda surprised me....
The Front, obviously, has issues at full lock with the frame. Gonna do some research on that one and figure out what I can do. The Bumper, obviously, and the firewall. That's really where the TLT clearing article comes into play.
Basically, I'm going to take 3/4" off ALL AROUND the wheel wells. The front, I can add some kind of door stripping from the local parts place. The rear, I'm going to weld 3/16" rod around the wheel well, to give it a cleen look, and keep the sheet metal from slicing into the tires.
AND, here's some from yesterday. Kinda weird that all the Toyota's were silver......
Again, HUGE thank you to Rob, [MENTION=59542]Singtoe[/MENTION] for letting us join in on the wheeling, as well as ffor the 37s! Definately need to do it again some time!
TCMach
New member
You sure aren't afraid to chop a hole in the floor eh? Did it end up clearing just fine and how does the "box" look from the inside? 37s look so sweet on your truck. I'm curious to see how much chopping you have to do to fully cycle those bad boys. I might be stepping up to 35s soon and if you can run a 37 just fine I might look into it a bit more. I'll need to swap to manual hubs like you did though because 37s will break CVs I'm sure!!
By the way why did you swap the rear to leafs? Ease of parts and installation? Ditching the stock link setup? In all you have a sweet runner and its gonna keep on getting better by the looks of things!
By the way why did you swap the rear to leafs? Ease of parts and installation? Ditching the stock link setup? In all you have a sweet runner and its gonna keep on getting better by the looks of things!
Doc2012
Senior Member
Definately will do a good write up. Here's the basic link I'm going to be using to do the clearance...
Clearance for 35-inch Tires on a Tacoma at ANY Lift Height | Trails Less Traveled
I've got an inch and a half BL, so I should be fine with just taking 3/4" from around the fenders, and be trimming the firewall a little bit.
LMFAO. Only one way to make sure it works man. And that's to go for it. As long as you have the patience and can picture what you want to do, you can fix anything you might mess up.
The clearance is great. There are a couple times when I hit the edge of the box with the t-case when I hit a big bump or something like that, and you can hear it hit. Other than that, it works great. Nice and quiet in the cab now. I wish I would've gotten a couple pics before I started cutting to show the hole in the body from the t-case rubbing it. Cant even tell it's there because the carpet covers it up.
The chance of you breaking a CV definately does increase with the bigger tires, but you can brake a CV with ANY size tire. If you give it too much skinny pedal, you'll break anything. Just gotta make sure it's the right ammount.
****EDIT*****
I completely read your question about the leafs wrong.....
I swapped the rear to leafs because I got a set of ARB Air Lockers and 4.88 gears from a guy on TTORA for 1975 shipped to my door.
They were from a Tacoma, which has a 8.4" axle housing, not the 8" the 4Runners have. So I put a Tacoma axle under it instead.
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Singtoe
New member
The link you posted was for a long travel suspension set up.
You need to follow this link. 4Runner on 35's... | Trails Less Traveled
I think your are right. Cut the corners on the rear and cut and plate the front rocker area and you are good to go.
You need to follow this link. 4Runner on 35's... | Trails Less Traveled
I think your are right. Cut the corners on the rear and cut and plate the front rocker area and you are good to go.
Doc2012
Senior Member
If you read that link, and scroll down to the bottom, the 4Runner on 35's in on the bottom of the page.
Thanks for posting the direct link though. I've been to that page so many times it's habit for me to just scroll down and click.
We'll see what happens when I do it. Hopefully gonna ger it started today, and continue to work on it either so they'll be mounted before I go home this weekend.
