Doc's ZRV(Pic Heavy)

I was rereading your thread. What ever happen the pinion and driveshaft piece that fell off?

You should be able to use that flange.
 
That was a year and a half ago man. I have no idea.

In about to go pull the flange off the old diff and use it. Hopefully it'll work.
 
That was a year and a half ago man. I have no idea.

In about to go pull the flange off the old diff and use it. Hopefully it'll work.

I have parts and pieces from the Sequoia still floating around. You need to organize yourself.



I would wait until you got word back from ECGS about the warranty. If you remove the flange, you will null and void all warranty's.
 
Hopefully gonna take it up there sometime soon. Gonna call them Monday and see when they're open over the next week.
 
Gonna get some BA seat covers this weekend. Post pics up when I do.

Been working on my storage system, and will post pics if that as well.

Need to iron out some stuff with the truck, mainly the speedo. I need a Tacoma transfer case, which seem to be rare around these parts. Lol.
 
only pic i can find of his runner now lol
549558_4644224277948_1248716668_n.jpg
 
Many thanks to the people that helped me through to this point, answering my questions, and putting up with the texts and PMs.

Big thanks to [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION], for explaining why he did what he did, and providing an excellent write up on it. (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...wiring-ugrade-3rd-gen-toyota-4runner-how.html)

Before we begin with my experience, I feel the need to tell you a few things.

First and foremost, there IS NO direct link between the battery and the alternator. Found this out the hard way.

What you are doing by performing the "Big Three" is CREATING that link DIRECTLY between the alternator and the battery.

Here's what I mean:



The wire in the above pic is the wire that is in the fuse box, closest to the motor. That wire connects DIRECTLY to the alternator, into the fuse box. The current runs down the stud, across a metal plate. On this plate, the ABS fuse(60amps[removed by me because I'm no longer running ABS]), and the ALT fuse(120 amps), are BOLTED using 4, 8mm bolts, 2 per fuse. Also coming off of the plate, is the wire that runs to the POSITIVE side of the battery.

The massive wire that is connected to the BATTERY POSITIVE, is the STARTER WIRE. It has nothing to do with the alternator at all. I originally wanted to upgrade ALL the wiring, but there's no point in doing so, because the STARTER wire is most likely a 2ga wire. It's pretty damn thick.

If that made sense to you, then we're good. Here's what I did.

1) I made my wires. Like I said, I wanted to replace all the wires, so I went with the thick stuff. I used 2ga for the positive. Looking at it now, I can probably downgrade to 4ga, but doubt I will.



2)went into the garage, and put the terminals in a vice. Added some solder, heated it up, put the wire in the terminal, the closed the vice on the terminal.





3) shrink wrap and heat resistant conduit and your wires are good.

Here's where I messed up, but kinda glad I did.

Again, I wanted to REPLACE all the wires, not just add more to the system.

I opened the big bundle of wires, and came up with this:



The thick wire on the bottom of the pic is the starter wire. The Red, Yellow, & White wires are from the alt plug.

The lone black wire goes to the starter. Think that's the one that gives the signal for it to turn over.

The thicker white wire, with the eye on the end, is part of that "Fusable Link". It attached to the metal plate under the relays with an 8mm bolt.

I opened the wiring loom up so that I could get to the ground wire. I upgraded that to some 4ga wire.

The Engine to negative bolt is located almost directly under the oil filter. It's a 14mm bolt, and is torqued on there pretty tight.

Anyway, I put the 4ga ground onto the block, ran it up towards the negative post. Added the 2ga wire to the alternator, and ran it up to the battery. Wrapped everything up in some tape and loom. Attached the Neg to the chassis using some 4ga as well, then to the core support.

All said and done, glad I did this. I need to extend my positive terminal screw so I can fit everything onto the battery, but no big deal.
 
Remember I said I was going to remake my switch box?



I've bveen on duty today. I told my HM1 that I would have a bunch of signs made by monday morning.



We have this thing in the office that's called a "GravoGraph", basically an engraver. We make various signs for the hospital.



Well, while waiting for 6 of the same signs to cut, I started messing around with the program. I likey.



I made the faceplate for the switch box.



Here's how it came out.

5enu8a2e.jpg
 
Been awhile. Figured I'd update.

Worked on the drawer system a little. I'll get pics up soon.

Bad news, I spun a bearing.

Good news, getting another car.

More good news. Getting to do her up right. Saving some money. Getting everything i NEED to get it done right.

No more if this fix it to make it work.

Getting done right this time.

Stand by for major stuff. ;)
 

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