**DONE!!!!!**1988 SAS build - need advice for beginning
- Thread starter Brownfaux
- Start date
Hyde802
New member
with the 3" springs, youll get about 7" of actual lift. The springs are 3" (once they settle a little bit) , and then you get a little from the drop hanger/shackles/solid axle/leaf pack thickness.
I went with RUF springs, my springs are FLAT. I have about 3" total lift.
I went with RUF springs, my springs are FLAT. I have about 3" total lift.
Last edited:
ajohnson
New member
The good thing about RUF, besides being cheap, is you build the pack for desired lift and flex. Nothing wrong with TG though IMO. I am pretty happy with my 4" springs as they are finally settling some.
And I am dealing with the same frame issue on my '87. I didn't see it til after I bought it (dammit). It was poorly repaired and a stock chain loop was welded in place. I cut the loop off and a chunk of frame came with it (dammit). I'll just patch it and plate/gusset. The crossmember is straight enough, but I'll use other points to measure off and get the spring crossmember square.
And I am dealing with the same frame issue on my '87. I didn't see it til after I bought it (dammit). It was poorly repaired and a stock chain loop was welded in place. I cut the loop off and a chunk of frame came with it (dammit). I'll just patch it and plate/gusset. The crossmember is straight enough, but I'll use other points to measure off and get the spring crossmember square.
1988 SAS build - need advice for beginning
Got stuck on the torsion bars. Having trouble getting the adjustment bolt off. Hopefully tonight. Do you guys cut and grind those mounts as well?
Unbolted the ifs steering box then realized it needs to stay put. Doh!!
**edit. This damn I phone makes me look like I write at a 3rd grade level. I swear I'm smart guys. Damn autocorrect.
Got stuck on the torsion bars. Having trouble getting the adjustment bolt off. Hopefully tonight. Do you guys cut and grind those mounts as well?
Unbolted the ifs steering box then realized it needs to stay put. Doh!!
**edit. This damn I phone makes me look like I write at a 3rd grade level. I swear I'm smart guys. Damn autocorrect.
GuyHUey
New member
I left the torsion bar boxes, didn't see any reason to cut them out. Man, grinding all that shit smooth after cutting it out was the worst...
Keep the good work, it's all worth it in the end.
GH
KidVermicious
New member
Did you decide on the Trailgear lift? Does it have a brace for the steering box? They like to rip out of the frame if you don't brace it. I used a kit from Front Range Offroad that worked well.
Look into shoving that box forward into the core support, too. With the box in the stock location you can end up with your tie rod and drag link getting in a fight every time your drivers side stuffs. Here's a pic of mine, with the steering box shoved as far forward as I could get it without cutting the core support, and they barely clear each other. I wish I'd put it in the core support in the first place. I want to move my axle forward on the springs for better stuffage, but I'll have to move my steering box again first.
ajohnson
New member
No he is talking about pushing the steering box FORWARD from the stock location, like I mentioned. I recommend moving it as far as it will go against the body mount and welding a steering box mount kit in. You will have to drill new holes but you might as well do it now instead of wishing you did later.
KidVermicious
New member
No, like ajohnson said. The farther forward (towards the front of the truck) you can mount the steering box, the more room you have to shove the axle forward before your tie rod and drag link start intefering with eachother. Pushing the axle forward gives you more wheelbase, a better approach angle, and gives you more room to fit big tires without having to resort to tubbing the firewall. You'll have to check to be sure, but I think the Trailgear springs are actually set up to mount the axle a couple inches forward from the get-go, so I recommend actually cutting a hole in the core support above the body mount to get that box as forward as possible. And yeah, you definitely want a frame brace if the Trailgear kit doesn't have one. The steering puts enough torque on the IFS box to tear it out of the frame if you don't plate it first, happens all the time. Here's the kit I used.
