KidVermicious
New member
I don't have any of my own, but here's one I dug off Google Image:
What are you needing to know?
What are you needing to know?
**DONE!!!!!**1988 SAS build - need advice for beginning
- Thread starter Brownfaux
- Start date
1988 SAS build - need advice for beginning
Perfect! Why didn't I find this when I was looking? I need the orientation of the circled bracket. With the rear lift I can't have it pointing straight back.
In this pic the guy has drilled a hole lower on the brake levers to dodge the spring too. It looks like I need to make a bracket to orient the circled one pointing back. But what I don't get is how does the pass side brake lever get pulled? I'm messing g with mine and I can't see how the mechanism pulls each side?
Perfect! Why didn't I find this when I was looking? I need the orientation of the circled bracket. With the rear lift I can't have it pointing straight back.
In this pic the guy has drilled a hole lower on the brake levers to dodge the spring too. It looks like I need to make a bracket to orient the circled one pointing back. But what I don't get is how does the pass side brake lever get pulled? I'm messing g with mine and I can't see how the mechanism pulls each side?
KidVermicious
New member
Can't see your pic, but each side gets pulled because of some rules made up by a guy called Newton 
.
It looks like the cable coming down from the truck pulls on the cable to the drivers side drum, but that's not what's happening. There's only a single cable between the ebrake lever and the drivers side drum, running inside that rigid sheath until it reaches the axle. Pulling the ebrake handle effectively shortens that cable. If there were no other components, all that would accomplish is to pull that sheath closer to the drivers side, but on the end of the sheath is the fitting that ties the sheath to the passenger side drum lever. That sets up the two drum levers in tension, and since neither is tied to anything else, pulling the ebrake lever and shortening that cable applies equal tension to both ebrakes in an equal and opposite reaction - Newton's Third Law.
Does that make sense? I'm no physicist.
. It looks like the cable coming down from the truck pulls on the cable to the drivers side drum, but that's not what's happening. There's only a single cable between the ebrake lever and the drivers side drum, running inside that rigid sheath until it reaches the axle. Pulling the ebrake handle effectively shortens that cable. If there were no other components, all that would accomplish is to pull that sheath closer to the drivers side, but on the end of the sheath is the fitting that ties the sheath to the passenger side drum lever. That sets up the two drum levers in tension, and since neither is tied to anything else, pulling the ebrake lever and shortening that cable applies equal tension to both ebrakes in an equal and opposite reaction - Newton's Third Law.
Does that make sense? I'm no physicist.
1988 SAS build - need advice for beginning
Ahhhh I see. Mine needs quite and adjustment then. Perfect. Thanks!
I was thinking it needed to be routed around to let the thing twist or something. But now that you tell me that it makes sense. I'm going t make a new bracket to hold it up higher and then will weld in extensions to the levers to pull them over the springs.
Ahhhh I see. Mine needs quite and adjustment then. Perfect. Thanks!
I was thinking it needed to be routed around to let the thing twist or something. But now that you tell me that it makes sense. I'm going t make a new bracket to hold it up higher and then will weld in extensions to the levers to pull them over the springs.
So things have been busy. No new house.... tapatalk is all jacked up and I can't post from my phone or even find my own thread.
But, brakes are on and working, drove it out of the garage and parked it for a few days. Need to re do my rear spring perches, they are just a hair off center. Then to diagnosing my trouble code, i forgot what it was but i know its related to the cold start injector or one other problem.
Anyway, the tough stuff I was learning as I went, is now pretty much over. So nice to not have an immobile vehicle in my garage!
But, brakes are on and working, drove it out of the garage and parked it for a few days. Need to re do my rear spring perches, they are just a hair off center. Then to diagnosing my trouble code, i forgot what it was but i know its related to the cold start injector or one other problem.
Anyway, the tough stuff I was learning as I went, is now pretty much over. So nice to not have an immobile vehicle in my garage!
So, I'm back. All moved into a new house with a slightly bigger garage. Got half my yard put in and just barely pulled the 88 into the garage and put it on jack stands again.
Current status is, need to re do rear shock mounts, correct pinion angle as well. Of course flip the front knuckles to the correct sides..... Jeez.
Then add the front shocks. There is of course a little clean up welding to be done on the front to, nothing crazy. Need to order driveline adapters so k can run the Tacoma driveline I picked up a while back. Then tackle the damn cold start injector trouble code I'm getting. Then rear main seal. Yay!
Current status is, need to re do rear shock mounts, correct pinion angle as well. Of course flip the front knuckles to the correct sides..... Jeez.
Then add the front shocks. There is of course a little clean up welding to be done on the front to, nothing crazy. Need to order driveline adapters so k can run the Tacoma driveline I picked up a while back. Then tackle the damn cold start injector trouble code I'm getting. Then rear main seal. Yay!
Yeah. It's been a year now. Stopped altogether for 3 months. Took 2 months rebuilding my cv driveshaft and figured out brakes.
Got the rear end out yesterday and got the spring perches off and shock mounts. Ground smooth, put back under the truck to fix pinion angle today and correctly place shocks. Then buy new hard line to route around spring perch for rear pass side brake. Front shock hoop tacked on place on drivers side. Getting so close......
Got the rear end out yesterday and got the spring perches off and shock mounts. Ground smooth, put back under the truck to fix pinion angle today and correctly place shocks. Then buy new hard line to route around spring perch for rear pass side brake. Front shock hoop tacked on place on drivers side. Getting so close......
Ok. Test drive around the block. Tons less vibration with the corrected pinion angle. Still a bit though. Is this unavoidable?
Time to tighten everything down and dial in the alignment. I'll have plenty of time to paint and finish the interior while saving for 35s and wheels.
Time to tighten everything down and dial in the alignment. I'll have plenty of time to paint and finish the interior while saving for 35s and wheels.
BoatRacer
New member
I will guess since the vibes lessened a lot with the pinion angle corrected that it's still the issue. Is the vibe mostly at take off from stopped? You could try clamping the ends of the leaf springs and driving around the block again, if the vibes go away, build an axle anti-wrap bar of some kind. When you hit the throttle hard or take off from a stop, the whole rear end wants to twist up, the leaf springs are the only thing from preventing this though and depending on the spring, they may allow a bunch of twist which throws off your pinion angle. I hope all of that came across as I meant it, I chased vibes for months until I learned just how bad mine was, I bought and welded in a kit from RuffStuff. Made a huge improvement.
Agghhh! I can't believe it's been since 2015 that I've posted.
I fixed what I thought was the cold start injector sensor, turned out it was the coolant temp sensor. Also the wires in the harness has pulled out and weren't making contact.
It's now aligned, pinion angle set using an angle finder, drives straight and great. Time for weld finalization, brake bleeding, hard line routing, then just little stuff.
I almost gave up a year ago, just felt like it was too much to figure out but I finally got motivated and cranked it out. Couldn't have done it without this forum. Pics later, because it's still ugly as hell.
Most important part is though, it works.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I fixed what I thought was the cold start injector sensor, turned out it was the coolant temp sensor. Also the wires in the harness has pulled out and weren't making contact.
It's now aligned, pinion angle set using an angle finder, drives straight and great. Time for weld finalization, brake bleeding, hard line routing, then just little stuff.
I almost gave up a year ago, just felt like it was too much to figure out but I finally got motivated and cranked it out. Couldn't have done it without this forum. Pics later, because it's still ugly as hell.
Most important part is though, it works.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
