Door sound deadening question

[GrantK]

I'm half way done with putting sound deadening in the floor so it's time for the final planning on doing the doors, which has raised a question.

I will end up removing the plastic sheeting Toyota used to cover the holes. I was planning on covering them with 22 gauge sheet metal. This has the drawback of requiring me to paint them to prevent rust and drill holes in the door and use screws to mount them, which I'd rather not do since drilling creates a rust point. So I came up with another idea. I have thick cardboard (1/16" measured) that I use to make templates. I could cut it out, treat it with wood hardener to protect it from moisture then mount it with silicon sealant. Whether I use sheet metal or cardboard, I'll be covering them with the sound deadening as well as applying it to outer skin of the door.

So, what's the opinion on using cardboard vs painting and drilling?

 

[Antman]

Option C- Cut the adhesive that holds the plastic on, Remove and set the plastic aside, reattach the plastic when your done. IMO

 

[K O]

Wet cardboard sounds like a disaster. I don't think removing the plastic and covering the hole with sound deadening is going to produce the results you're looking for. You can apply it directly to the exterior metal through the hole that is currently covered with plastic.

 

[NorthWest 4R]

I'm half way done with putting sound deadening in the floor so it's time for the final planning on doing the doors, which has raised a question.

I will end up removing the plastic sheeting Toyota used to cover the holes. I was planning on covering them with 22 gauge sheet metal. This has the drawback of requiring me to paint them to prevent rust and drill holes in the door and use screws to mount them, which I'd rather not do since drilling creates a rust point. So I came up with another idea. I have thick cardboard (1/16" measured) that I use to make templates. I could cut it out, treat it with wood hardener to protect it from moisture then mount it with silicon sealant. Whether I use sheet metal or cardboard, I'll be covering them with the sound deadening as well as applying it to outer skin of the door.

So, what's the opinion on using cardboard vs painting and drilling?

I usually use some thin perforated aluminum sheeting, often found in the roofing section. Easy to cut with tin snips and don't need to worry about painting or corrosion. I have also just ripped of the plastic and just covered with dynamat making a new barrier just with the dynamat, once applied it isn't going anywhere. Didn't notice any difference one way or the other, but option 1 is the right way.

Close to the same time here :biggrin2: I just finished all my doors last week and will be tackling the roof and floor this weekend.

 

[Hawaiian4runner]

I'm half way done with putting sound deadening in the floor so it's time for the final planning on doing the doors, which has raised a question.

I will end up removing the plastic sheeting Toyota used to cover the holes. I was planning on covering them with 22 gauge sheet metal. This has the drawback of requiring me to paint them to prevent rust and drill holes in the door and use screws to mount them, which I'd rather not do since drilling creates a rust point. So I came up with another idea. I have thick cardboard (1/16" measured) that I use to make templates. I could cut it out, treat it with wood hardener to protect it from moisture then mount it with silicon sealant. Whether I use sheet metal or cardboard, I'll be covering them with the sound deadening as well as applying it to outer skin of the door.

So, what's the opinion on using cardboard vs painting and drilling?

Neither. Just use the matting material. One layer from the inside and then one from the outside works well. Inside layer a little hard to apply. Remove the speaker and reach through the hole.

If you are trying to create a bass chamber then you may want to sheet metal the hole but even that would not accomplish much and would probably lead to rattling.

 

[Hellamatic]

I agree with Antman. Whenever I go into door panels, I remove the plastic, set it aside, and reuse it later. I find that the aluminum foil tape that tin bashers use on furnace ducts works exceptionally well - it's tough, easy to work with, and sticks really well. It seals out dust really well too.

 

[harper7]

Kind of like Antman too, I just re-used the stock vapor barrier. But instead of taking it off ,as that butyl adhesive that holds them on is a mess to work with IMO,I just cut basically a flap with an exacto knife and then used 2 inch clear mylar tape to tape the slits,that I worked through to install the deadener, back up.I put deadener all around the speaker holes too to stiffen them up and help prevent rattles.

You could also just use duct tape as nobody can see in there anyways. You want to watch your weight as the deadener is heavy as it is and if you start adding too much weight it will wear out your door hinges,especially the drivers door beacuse it's used alot, as they were'nt designed for all the added weight.

Here's some pics.......... Sound Deadener in Doors

 

[GrantK]

One of the goals, being an audiophile, is to turn the doors into speaker enclosures. That means replacing the plastic film with something fairly stiff. That's why originally I was going to use sheet metal, then thought of rigid cardboard with wood hardener. I just had another idea, use luan treated with wood hardener to protect it from moisture.

The door's outer skin will be fully covered with sound deadener and acoustic mat right behind the speaker, the inner skin will have the inside area around the speaker covered with acoustic mat and the area behind the panel will be partially covered with sound deadener to stop it from acting like a sounding board.

 

[Hawaiian4runner]

One of the goals, being an audiophile, is to turn the doors into speaker enclosures. That means replacing the plastic film with something fairly stiff. That's why originally I was going to use sheet metal, then thought of rigid cardboard with wood hardener. I just had another idea, use luan treated with wood hardener to protect it from moisture.

The door's outer skin will be fully covered with sound deadener and acoustic mat right behind the speaker, the inner skin will have the inside area around the speaker covered with acoustic mat and the area behind the panel will be partially covered with sound deadener to stop it from acting like a sounding board.

I too am an audiophile. Most car speakers are designed as "free air" meaning no enclosure. In any event, the door volume is too great and there are too many leaks anyway to seal it. Deadening the tin can is all good but sheet metaling the hole is overkill and will not improve your sound. In fact, it could muddy bass response.

 

[duncaterro]

You can apply it directly to the exterior metal through the hole that is currently covered with plastic.