Door Won't Stay Open

[BoomerBob]

A thought occurred to me tonight. It seems the coating material (Powder Coat?) is wearing thin then the tension stop no longer has enough material to catch the door check at the wide spots.

I wonder if powder coating them would fix it for another 100k-200k miles. I notice the door check on my 01 with 147k miles still has some 'grab' left to it but my 98 with 173k doesn't.

On a whim I wrapped the 01 with some 2" wide pipe tape (like smooth electrical tape) and it didn't really do much. My goal was to see if adding material would fix it. Maybe tape won't work or maybe I didn't add enough. Then I thought of gluing with epoxy some tin or aluminum sheeting cut to fit those wide spots on both sides to see if that might work.

I think it's a combination of wide spot material wearing off and the rubber that catches it wearing out. Funky design IMHO. I expect better from companies like Toyota and Honda.

Good thread. Interesting.

 

[gamefreakgc]

A thought occurred to me tonight. It seems the coating material (Powder Coat?) is wearing thin then the tension stop no longer has enough material to catch the door check at the wide spots.

I wonder if powder coating them would fix it for another 100k-200k miles. I notice the door check on my 01 with 147k miles still has some 'grab' left to it but my 98 with 173k doesn't.

On a whim I wrapped the 01 with some 2" wide pipe tape (like smooth electrical tape) and it didn't really do much. My goal was to see if adding material would fix it. Maybe tape won't work or maybe I didn't add enough. Then I thought of gluing with epoxy some tin or aluminum sheeting cut to fit those wide spots on both sides to see if that might work.

I think it's a combination of wide spot material wearing off and the rubber that catches it wearing out. Funky design IMHO. I expect better from companies like Toyota and Honda.

Good thread. Interesting.

Yeah, it's almost over-engineered. Toyota doesn't normally do that. Like it was just shiny metal that didn't work so they slapped some odd textured plastic coating on it and called it good.

 

[TonyB66]

That's generally how these work alright. Either need to thicken the arm, or work with the material that squeezes on the arm, which is what I had done before with very good success. That is one reason I like these replacement checks - the box can be opened to access that material, to shim it or replace it with something else...

I'd rather do that than trying to add thickness to the arms, on those high points that got worn-down. That said, if I were to approach this from the arm perspective, I'd consider the use of a small and thin washer and JB Weld it on the humps. I'd file or slightly round the leading edges of the washer where it contacts the material in the box, likely rubber.

Since I have the old factory stop out now, I'll try that, maybe even tomorrow.

 

[BoomerBob]

Remember those round plugs that come out of building electrical boxes. That might be even better than a washer.

 

[TonyB66]

Remember those round plugs that come out of building electrical boxes. That might be even better than a washer.

Nice visual, like buttons, rounded, convex on the top, if we are thinking the same. Agree, nice contour for something like this, but the ones I'm thinking of are like the size of quarter, way too wide for these arms...

Started more research on other Toyotas about 20 years back, like the Sienna, Camry, Avalon, Celica, Land Cruiser. There are no dimensions or length of the arms, so it's a crapshoot. Maybe a trip to a local auto parts store with a tape measure might help.

I did find a couple washers and I mixed-up some JB Weld. Will let it cure for 24+ hours, then put this stocker back in for a test. Not the best photo...

Outside of Toyotas, there's one for the Honda Odyssey that has me wondering...

 

[TonyB66]

It baked in the sun today and is rock hard. I mixed-up some more JB Weld moments ago and feathered it on both sides of each washer.

As stated before, while I think this will work, and possibly quite well, I'm still aiming to find a replacement option for us. It seems like the local auto auto parts stores don't have these in stock, at least according to their websites. I'm not done checking though, but a salvage yard visit might be next, when I can make the time...

 

[TonyB66]

With the time I have available these days, this has been an ideal project for me...

First, for those in a pinch, have a hot date at the end of the week, the JB-Weld approach works. I was correct on the washer of choice being thin. I used a thicker one on the half check, and it got scissored-off. The thin one that I used on full open works very well. Here it is fully opened, where it would usually close with seemingly no resistance.

I removed the OEM door check to take more measurements that I figured would help me while in the auto parts stores and/or salvage yards...

3 1/16" to the pivot point.

Then, something caught my attention on the Corolla door check...

It was only 13 bucks, so I followed my gut...

I squeezed the end piece to make it more narrow for a better fit over that portion of the arm, bolt and nut...

Confident this would do the trick, and it did, perfectly.

Unless we can find a desirable door check with that approx 3 inch arm measurement, this is the solution, I feel. Heck, even if we find such a door check, this thing is 11 bucks (on Prime again), and the case can be opened too, the "tensioner" shimmed.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P3HWT13/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A3ROA1QQGD4TSG&psc=1

Figure about 20-30 minutes to modify it for our 3rd gens. I just ordered one more for the driver side!

Jerod, did you happen to remove a rear door check? That's next...

 

[phattyduck]

Did you get a diameter on that pin? A clevis pin and clip might be a better solution that a bolt/nut (less likely to come undone and better shear strength).

-Charlie

 

[TonyB66]

Did you get a diameter on that pin? A clevis pin and clip might be a better solution that a bolt/nut (less likely to come undone and better shear strength).

-Charlie

Good point Charlie. Still have the pin. It's about 1/4", a bit under, so I imagine 6mm. It's rather light and honestly feels less substantial than the bolt I used, but I like the idea of a Clevis/clip solution.

For now, I'll blue Loctite the nut, maybe even double-nut it, not sure. I can always update that later without needing to remove anything else...

I just went-out to the 4Runner to check the front passenger door again and it works great. Pleasant surprise for my wife awaits her!

Just took a rough measurement of a rear door check arm, and it might be 3 1/16" also. If not, it's a dad more. Hmmm... Looks to be the same design.

If so, I'm feeling fairly certain that the same door check (Corolla/Matrix/Vibe/Prius) that works in the front, will work in the rear for us. If anyone has a rear door check removed, please do share a photo or two.

 

[TonyB66]

So, these three arrived today...

Note, the one on the left I'm keeping, and returning the other two as those don't have the tabs that secure the box. I let the seller know, that it doesn't match the photos on their listing, and two replacements are being shipped.

Just an FYI for those who might be doing the same...

The rear doors are about 6 inches shorter, and likely lighter, and with that these same door checks should have more holding capability.

 

[gamefreakgc]

This is awesome! I'm going to order one for the driver's door, I hate that the darn thing closes on its own all the time. My rear doors are in great shape, bought it from a single guy who must have never used them lol.

 

[TonyB66]

This is awesome! I'm going to order one for the driver's door, I hate that the darn thing closes on its own all the time. My rear doors are in great shape, bought it from a single guy who must have never used them lol.

Cool, glad someone else is giving this a go too. You might get the style with or without tabs. They are otherwise identical as far as I can tell. With the tabs, it should allow easier access to the innards. I will pry one open soon and play with a shim or two. That said, the spot welds on the ones I have look easy to drill out. If then one uses studs like our original door checks, that would also close the box up, with no need for tabs or a weld. Should work well.

The Amazon seller is sending two more and told me to keep these two. Cool.

Really hope these work for the rear doors too. If I had to guess, they will...

 

[TonyB66]

Have been busy with family matters and forgot a couple shots I took of the front passenger door. Here, with the speaker re-installed (more weight) at full open on the steepest part of the driveway, steeper than most I imagine.

Half open...

When a good breeze kicked-up, the door did close when at full open. At half open, the breeze did not close the door. I decided that I'm going to shim each door check, at least both in the front. The door panels still need get re-installed, which adds more weight of course...

 

[owyheerat]

Tony (and others that help contribute), thanks for taking the time and energy to research, procure and modify the corolla door catch. I will be ordering these soon to fix my doors that no longer stay open.

Again, thank you!

Durwin

 

[TonyB66]

Tony (and others that help contribute), thanks for taking the time and energy to research, procure and modify the corolla door catch. I will be ordering these soon to fix my doors that no longer stay open.

Again, thank you!

Durwin

Durwin, you are quite welcome. Nice to contribute for once. The forum and many of its members have helped me tremendously. This is small stuff. That said, for the wife, and I imagine kids too when I do the rears, this tops the bumpers, winch, skids, sliders etc! For me, it has been the perfect little project that I can work on leisurely these days...

Hey, if you find a way to improve upon this mod, do share. It's a team effort.

 

[TonyB66]

The refinement continues...

First, I got the two replacement door checks, and I'm happy to say that they were the type with tabs, as opposed to the spot welds to secure the case.

Since I have two extras now, I decided to tap one of those that is welded shut to see if it threads well for studs.

I figured it might be too tight for the flanged hex head to seat properly...

So I got a few of these.

They are 30mm long though. The local THD didn't have these in 20mm, which is the length used before. We'll see how that plays-out...

They thread in quite nicely.

Now time to open one up, so I removed the one that I had installed on the front passenger door.

15-20 seconds later, one tab off.

A couple minutes later the other three were removed exposing this...

Pushed back into place.

The black is compressible rubber and the light green material is hard plastic-like material.

From some scrap aluminum I cut the first shim.

It fit well.

I removed the arm and added a second shim on the other side.

In order to slide the arm back into place, I used the nuts to close it up tight and keep the innards in tact while I forced it through.

Arm back into place...

I put the articulating end back on, and then a couple wraps of electrical tape to hold it together during installation.

No problems getting it installed. The 30mm bolts are a bit long, so I do recommend 20mm.

That said, the 30mm do not impact anything when closed. I'll likely trim them and the others later.

I parked the 4Runner on the steepest part of our property for a test. Speaker installed, half open...

Full open.

Damn happy! For less than 15 bucks (door check + bolts) and less than an hour of work per door check, one can have what I feel is a better, rebuildable solution that is much more affordable as compared to our OEM replacement part.

Fronts figured-out. Rears next. Fingers-crossed that the same will work in the rear...

 

[BoomerBob]

Well done Tony! The pictures help tremendously!

I bet that hard plastic is similar or even the same as what they use for cam chain tensioners in some car/truck/motorcycle engines. Made to last indefinitely.

This is definitely on my to-do list now! Thanks!

 

[TonyB66]

Well done Tony! The pictures help tremendously!

I bet that hard plastic is similar or even the same as what they use for cam chain tensioners in some car/truck/motorcycle engines. Made to last indefinitely.

This is definitely on my to-do list now! Thanks!

Thanks much.

I started working on the driver's side door check last night:

M6 1.0 tap of two holes - 2 minutes

Cut the two shims - less than 2 minutes

Drilled-out the clevis pin - about 10 minutes (could be done much faster)

Shortened the arm just before the clevis pin hole - about 3 min

Enlarged that other hole that replaces the clevis pin hole - 1 min

Later today I'll remove the four tabs, insert the shims and tape it closed. That will likely take 10-15 minutes. Tight fit on those shims. So, the modifications needed can be done in 30 minutes if methodical.

I might even be adventurous and try to squeeze-in two shims on each side and see what happens. The driver door is the heaviest as I keep a pocket knife, multi-tool, glasses and other stuff in the door pocket...

THD has these bolts in 18mm that might be perfect for this application. If so, I'll return the six other unused 30mm ones I purchased and get the 18s instead. I'll report back on that later...

 

[owyheerat]

Tony,

Great job, and thanks so much for posting the link and the great pics and details of how to modify.

How thick is your shim stock?

Thanks

Durwin

 

[TonyB66]

Tony,

Great job, and thanks so much for posting the link and the great pics and details of how to modify.

How thick is your shim stock?

Thanks

Durwin

Sure Durwin. Glad there is interest, otherwise I'd be detailing this for nothing!

Here you go.

The other bit of modification I do that I think I only briefly mentioned is squeezing the end piece. Here one I can see how thick the end of the arm is...

Since that end is removed to shorten the arm, the portion where the hole goes is much thinner, so the gap should be closed-up some. This seems to work pretty well. A bit blurry though...

I simply have that silver piece in there so it doesn't pinch closed too much on the end... So, add an extra 5 or so minutes for that step...