Drive shaft noise or U joint noise (LEXUS 4/06 TSB page 18) aka Driveshaft thump/bump

[naseeb]

I get the caliper noise too, especially when it's rainy out.

Why is it when you call Toyota customer service, they do not acknowledge the drivetrain problem? I also have two other friends who have the same issue with their 4-runners. They happen to be the only other people I know besides you guys with 4-runners ....sounds like it;s more like 100% problem.

Sucks to own a 45K Lexus and have this problem.

 

[skoobahead]

Naseeb,

I can fix your caliper problem.
First tell me...do you get a "click" sound when reversing directions and then applying brakes?

If so I will fix it

 

[Kanab]

Guys it is not a problem it is a no additional charge feature. Mine did it some at first and then after a couple of lubes at 4-5K mile intervals and it is gone. I think if you just drive it will wear in and happen less and less often. Hey bigger things to worry about, like who to vote for

 

[Canuck]

I don't understand why, if people have gone so far as to eliminate all the possible causes in the drive shaft even by replacing the driveshaft with an aftermarket unit (GoodTimes) and they still hear the clink...it is still being blamed on the splined joint.

The fact that you can feel it through the shifter could mean its in the trive train...or it is transferring through the drivetrain. The brakes are tied to the driveline.

If you think about it, lots of parts are in torsion when you brake. It could be anything loading up and releasing as you apply and release the brakes.

It happens to my '03 on occasion. Without any evedence to back-up what Im saying, it feels like something in the front suspension. Thats how it feels to me. I don't see any equivicable 'smoking gun' to say that it's a spline joint issue. 'Could be...but it could be lots of things.

 

[Billf6531]

Well, YMMV, but I had the described problem on my 98, and now on my 03, and resolved it on both vehicles by lubricating the front yoke / spline. I never found it necessary to remove the driveshaft to solve the problem. If you still have the thunk, try removing the driveshaft and re-installing it so that the splines mesh at 180 degrees from their original alignment.

WRONG>>>>!!!!

Talk to people on this forum. I have had the yoke off of the drive shaft. Lubed it 100% with recommended MOLY grease and reinstalled......thump still there. I have pumped enough grease to expand the yoke....thump still there. I have replaced the U-joint on the slip yoke assy......thump still there.
You will have the SAME conditions. Trust me. Been there done that. Lexus is replacing the driveshafts on the GX470 after customers complain, and after time...thump still there. Try out the Lexus forum...Those people are PISSED. $45,000.00 GX470 and THUMP!

100% design defect from Toyota. Don't have to believe me but it is Fact. I know 7 people with Toyota trucks. Each and every one does this.

Learn to live with it and the rest of the Vehicle is great

 

[skoobahead]

You had the rear "clunking" and you resolved it by lubing the *front* slip yoke???

 

[Billf6531]

Yes. The clunking is caused by axle wind-up, and the front yoke spline binding on the transmission output shaft spline when the brakes are released. Grease allows the splines to slip instead of binding. If you're still confused, back up a few posts and review. I think there's even a long 'sticky' post, at the top of this forum, that tracks the problem.

You had the rear "clunking" and you resolved it by lubing the *front* slip yoke???

 

[skoobahead]

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm...I think your talking about something different.There are 2 slip yokes. Bumping is in the *rear* of vehicle and front slip yoke sits forward of transfer case. Don't see the correlation.

 

[Billf6531]

No, I'm talking about the front yoke on the driveshaft / transmission output shaft, not the yoke on the transfer case output shaft that drives the front differential. Two different things, and I've never had a problem with the transfer case, other than a leaky seal.

 

[skoobahead]

Well your not talking about the slip yoke then. The slip yoke is at the aft end of the driveshaft connecting to the rear differential. There is no slip yoke that connects to the Trans. This is a Universal joint. Anyways doesn't matter

 

[naseeb]

Skoobahead,

I replaced my rotors about a month ago. I picked up a pair of brembos from tirerack. I was going to replace the pads and bought OEM's but soon realized that removing the pins that hold the pads in the caliper was going to turn into a new project. After a few minutes toying with it I gave up and returned them. There was more than 70% life left on them and since I was replacing the rotors I figured it would be best to replace the pads....maybe also solve the clicking problem in the process....

it isn't as annoying as it was when I bought the vechicle at 40K miles. I think they have broken in and it only happens once in a while.......

what would need to be done, maybe next brake job I can permenantly fix it.....thanks for the offer though!

Amul

 

[skoobahead]

Naseeb,

What has to be done is to put synthetic brake caliper grease on the ends of the pads where they contact the caliper. Mine were clicking like crazy and it 100% solved the problem. There is a service bulletin on this.
What did you do...unbolt the caliper and lift it off the rotor with pads still attached to change the rotors?


If the noise bothers you and you want help let me know. I even have the grease

John

 

[Thai]

Well, according to Clublexus GX owners, the Lexus fix does NOT work on everyone.

Check this link out:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=137813

 

[Kanab]

These are the changes Toyota made to some of the componets when they went from the old 4 speed auto (A343F) to the new 5 speed auto (A750F) on the LC/LX so we should have the same stronger parts connected to our 5 speeds since they are (A750F)- Anyone else have any information on this? If they are the same they should be having the same complaint with the new LC/LX's??

"The front and rear driveshafts were updated with stronger U-joints and larger tubes
Propeller Tube Diameter ’03 Model (A750F) ’02 Model (A343F)
Front 65.0 mm (2.6 in.) 54.0 mm (2.1 in.)
Rear 75.0 mm (3.0 in.) 65.0 mm (2.6 in.)
The differential gears were changed to a 4.1 ratio"

 

[Border411]

I have this same problem. It is just a little shudder when releasing the barkes. I thought maybe it had something to do with the "hill hold" feature, as it seems to me as the brakes are just releasing suddenly. No clunks or weird noises.

Shaun

 

[naseeb]

brake noise and bad gas mileage question

Skoobahead,

I was able to pull off the calipers , remove the rotors( they just slide off) and then carefully slide the whole caliper after compressing the pads a bit over the new rotors.....
took less than 20minutes per side....

maybe next time when I need to change the pad's I'll take your offer on the grease..


Another question......

GAS MILEGAGE....

I have noticed recently that I have been getting really crappy milage, less than 15 mpg . I never hit the gas hard and I mainly coast up to speed. What's the point, the truck doesn't have the best pickup, so why waste gas?....Anyways, do you think it may be the re-formulated gas?

I replaced the airfilter, and it doesn't seem to need a tune up....
maybe the Oxygen sensor? I've heard a bad fuel mixture can reduce gas milage. The exhaust doesn't smell any different.

 

[msanta]

Can you explain it in more detail, I want to do the brakes myself but I don't know how. Do you need special tools?

 

[naseeb]

brake job

I was planning on replacing the pads, but I had problems removing 2 pins which insert through the pads and the caliper mounts. It's there to keep the pad's in place. Maybe all you will need is a large needle nose plier to remove them. (Maybe someone else can explain that step)....


1. All you need to do is remove 2 bolts which hold the caliper in place. It's really ease to get to. Make sure you have a milk crate to hold the caliper up while working since the break line is short. You can even remove the clip holding the break line but be very careful.

2.Now the hard part (which I found hard, maybe others had better luck was to remove the pins holding the pad)...you can see the pins right on top of the caliper going through the pads.
If you get the pins out, the pads will just slide out.

3. Remove the brake fluid filler cap( In case some fluid comes out when you squeze the piston) ...You will now need to use a c-clap and a something flat to put in between the caliper piston and the c-clap. Twist the screw on the c-clap to push in the piston a bit so that when you put the new pad, there is enough room to slide over the rotor.
4. If your brakes shutter, I suggest you just get new rotors from tirerack.com...they seem to have really good ones for cheap. I got a pair of brembo rotors for 117 delivered. IF you cut them, they will start to shutter in a few months.
Once you pull of the caliper, and you need to do to take of the rotors (at least on a 98' SR5) is tap the back of the rotor to dislodge it from the spindle and it slides off...

Most important, make sure you carefully push back the piston otherwise you won't be able to slide the caliper back over the rotor.

Anyone else, feel free to add to this if I missed anything.

Let me know if you have any questions.....

 

[msanta]

Thanks so much for your explanation, it was well done. So basically, I don't need any special tool, just socket wrenches and some open ones!
Thanks a bunch, it will help me a lot!

 

[toyo]

To replace the front rotors and pads on a 4th gen: You will need a 14, 17 mm wrench, needle nose pliers, c-clamp. That is all you need tool wise. If you are just replacing the pads, then all you need is a pair of needle nose pliers and a long screwdriver to push pads in.