Driver's Door Lock Actuator Motor Repair [step-by-step w/ pics!!]

Start by opening your door. This is our canvas.

<a href="http://imgur.com/PvyFtfZ"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/PvyFtfZl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I used a small, computer-tool-sized flathead screwdriver for this. Wedge it into the panel just in front of the visual door lock mechanism to pop out the small panel inside the handle.

<a href="http://imgur.com/AbF7nL8"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/AbF7nL8l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="http://imgur.com/kl9eX2P"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/kl9eX2Pl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

This reveals the first screw to release the panel:

<a href="http://imgur.com/mi9OvI8"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/mi9OvI8l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Next there are two pop out pieces that don't come out (they stay suspended), and conceal two important screws to remove.

<a href="http://imgur.com/0REWWTX"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/0REWWTXl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="http://imgur.com/790Shtt"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/790Shttl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove all of them:

<a href="http://imgur.com/X13a2pi"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/X13a2pil.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Next, pop off the triangular panel by your side mirror by gripping the flat side (closest to you in the driver's seat) and pulling towards you. Comes right off.

<a href="http://imgur.com/HTeyC3T"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/HTeyC3Tl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="http://imgur.com/K1xi8DH"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/K1xi8DHl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Next start at the bottom door pocket and start prying the panel's clips away from the base of the door. Once you get one they will all start popping off easier. Once they are all unclipped you can grab the interior door handle and hold it to lift the panel off towards the top to release the full panel from the door.

Make sure you release the harnesses (window/lock controls, puddle light at the bottom) by squeezing the clips. Also release the door lock/opener cables by pulling them out of their housing and lift out of their connection point. This view is looking down from above the panel.

<a href="http://imgur.com/pP0qujN"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/pP0qujNl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="http://imgur.com/WvPDjuS"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/WvPDjuSl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Voila!

<a href="http://imgur.com/COgUb6S"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/COgUb6Sl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Thank you so much for this write up!! I had to replace my actuator motor this past weekend and this made it so much easier!
 
Any ideas on how one would be able to get a door open where the actuator wont release/unlock? 2003 4 Runner. Panel can't be pulled off with the door closed. Tried a slim Jim down the window. Power locks open and close, but door will not open from the inside or outside. I ordered a replacement actuator so I can see if there is a way to release it with a tool through the window or perhaps a hole-saw through the door panel as a last resort. I suspect the issue may involve the locking cable because the power locks open it but when locking it, the locking button doesn't quite close all the way.

Any ideas would be welcomed.
 
Mine happens to be the passenger front door (no keyhole on that side) so my next try will be to slip a tool down the inside of the window and rotate that white plastic + slot that I think is used to mesh with door handles that have a key. Hopefully I can get to it and that it releases my lock (it seems to on the new one)
 
Thank you to the OP and everyone else for putting this together. I just did the same job on the driver side door. About 2.5 broken hours while playing with the kids and working on it.

The final step of integrating the door's key lock is crucial. These two posts were immensely helpful.https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2856103-post24.html and https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2811228-post22.html

I took additional high-res pics of this step but can't get them to upload. If anyone needs them, feel free to message me.

Thanks again to everyone.
 
Any ideas on how one would be able to get a door open where the actuator wont release/unlock? 2003 4 Runner. Panel can't be pulled off with the door closed. Tried a slim Jim down the window. Power locks open and close, but door will not open from the inside or outside. I ordered a replacement actuator so I can see if there is a way to release it with a tool through the window or perhaps a hole-saw through the door panel as a last resort. I suspect the issue may involve the locking cable because the power locks open it but when locking it, the locking button doesn't quite close all the way.

Any ideas would be welcomed.

Any ideas....about to cut open the B pillar and cut the bolts on the striker plates just to get the door open!
 
this is the 5th gen section, ask in the 4th gen section

The door actuator is the same for both generations. If someone has a method of getting to the actuator with the door stuck shut for the 5th generation, it should also work in the 4th generation. This happens to be where the extensive writ up is with people that seem to have a knowledge of the possible problems.
 
The door actuator is the same for both generations. If someone has a method of getting to the actuator with the door stuck shut for the 5th generation, it should also work in the 4th generation. This happens to be where the extensive writ up is with people that seem to have a knowledge of the possible problems.

Door panels are different, I have no idea what's involved in removing the door pa el on the 4th gen so try asking in the 4th gen section
 
Any ideas on how one would be able to get a door open where the actuator wont release/unlock? 2003 4 Runner. Panel can't be pulled off with the door closed. Tried a slim Jim down the window. Power locks open and close, but door will not open from the inside or outside. I ordered a replacement actuator so I can see if there is a way to release it with a tool through the window or perhaps a hole-saw through the door panel as a last resort. I suspect the issue may involve the locking cable because the power locks open it but when locking it, the locking button doesn't quite close all the way.



Any ideas would be welcomed.
Did you figure this out? I'm in the same trouble
 
Over the past few weeks my key fob has been very inconsistent with locking/unlocking all the doors. Some days it works fine while some days it take 100+ button pushes or actually putting the key in the rear hatch key hole to unlock because they driver key hole won't work either. Once inside the buttons on the door always work. Do you guys think this is the actuator or something with the key fob?

Thanks in advance for the advice
 
Yeah, I figured it out. I haven't done it yet because my son has the car. I found a guy who was able to get the panel off far enough to drill a precisely located hole in the metal door panel and pop the lock open with a small screwdriver. I practiced on my replacement Actuator and it does open the lock. So I plan on trying that first since it is the least invasive. If that doesn't work I move back to my original plan to remove the plastic off of the B-pillar and cut open the B-Pillar...loosen the striker bolts some and cut them off. I ordered an extra striker plate to have on hand in case I have to go this route.
 
Over the past few weeks my key fob has been very inconsistent with locking/unlocking all the doors. Some days it works fine while some days it take 100+ button pushes or actually putting the key in the rear hatch key hole to unlock because they driver key hole won't work either. Once inside the buttons on the door always work. Do you guys think this is the actuator or something with the key fob?

Thanks in advance for the advice

could be the actuator, but i'd start by replacing the fob battery
 
What size is the motor you need for the actuator? It says there is a 10 and 20mm flat shaft.
It may have been said in this thread, but I may have missed it. Can anyone help?
 
Are you able to see where those two rods connect to once you get the door apart? That looks like the only tough part.

Really appreciate this write up and the pictures, hopefully it'll be just as simple for me.

When you say "rods", do you mean the locking/opening "rods" that connect to the mechanical parts? if so, then yes! Very clear, and you can either use my pics, or take your own to remember (that's part of why I took as many pics as I did - to make it easy to put back together!)

I believe in you - you can do it!
 
Over the past few weeks my key fob has been very inconsistent with locking/unlocking all the doors. Some days it works fine while some days it take 100+ button pushes or actually putting the key in the rear hatch key hole to unlock because they driver key hole won't work either. Once inside the buttons on the door always work. Do you guys think this is the actuator or something with the key fob?

Thanks in advance for the advice

I haven't checked this thread in a while, so I'm sorry for not responding sooner!

Did you get this figured out? It sounds like a keyfob battery to me. If when the button press finally unlocks the doors, and all doors lock/unlock, then that is a sign that it is highly likely to be the fob; however, there are telltale signs of the actuator failure:

1) you use your fob to lock/unlock and you hear lock mechanisms engage, but interior lights don't turn off - check all doors as one likely didn't lock. If this happens, manually lock it, then push the fob button again and you should hear a "chirp" of the lock and the lights go off.
2) a moan/groan/whistle/squeak when locking - this is typically when you can tell that an actuator is about to fail...when you hit lock buttons inside the vehicle and hear an audible "uunnnghghh" from one of the doors as it tries to lock, but moves slowly, or fires after the others, etc, but still locks.

Regarding your physical key inside the lock tumbler on the door not unlocking your door, that is new, and that would indicated your mechanisms aren't lined up inside the door for when you physically pull on the handle. That handle pull engages the lift bar inside the door to open the latch...typically the last (and most missed) item after repairing a failed actuator, so make sure you don't forget to put that bar back into the white plastic slot as you reassemble!
 

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