DRL and Turn Signal Mods.

[MENTION=79761]Cycle M5[/MENTION] good luck with them. Like J.A., I have the Gen2 kit. Disappointing to see quality becoming questionable in later Generations when it should be improving. But, sounds as though vLeds is "on it". I wonder if they would've sent you an "improved" kit had you not tried to fix them yourself. As we all know, this product isn't cheap.
 
Vleds 2.5

I just got my Triton 2.5 switchbacks with these Mormito resistors you have pictured--have not installed the product yet--did they offer to send you different ones?? I have not opened mine up to check the soldering of the wires.

Do you have a name of the person you are dealing with at Vleds so I can make contact and see what they say?

Thnkx

Joe
 
[MENTION=119190]staged2[/MENTION]: They did not offer, and I did not ask about "replacements". I'm certain, since the defect was well documented, that I could have asked for an exchange. But, Im getting along just fine after I repaired these. The bright side here (no pun intended) is that they are easily repairable. That itself has value to me.
You can open yours up if you like, but it will make no difference. They will fail (most likely). After my first resistor failed, I opened up the second unused resistor and it looked good. It worked for 10 minuted like the other one. Then the solder got too hot and failed. Ironically, consistency in this product was not it's strongest quality.
If you are patient and can't solder, I would ask for an exchange.
If you have your truck harness apart, and you are nearly done the installation, and you can solder...
- I would open up the resistors
-Get out your iron and flux
-Heat the two welds and pull the black and red wire off
-Strip the ends of these wires and try to twist then onto the block leads
-Apply some flux it and re-solder them together.
- Then re install them in the heat sink making sure the wires don't touch the metal.
They should hold. Maybe shrink insulation would be in order here as well. (GENERIC DISCLAIMER-Do this at your own risk:wow: )

UPDATE: Drove though nasty slush, rain, and deep puddles this morning.
The Teflon and trimmed rubber gasket held the moisture out.

The photos show the T4R splashing up one of those cold deep icy puddles while I watch from the comfort of my after market heated seat! You can see the front end getting totally wet. No moisture entered my light.

Again, according to VLEDS, you should NOT put Teflon tape on the LED shaft under the collar. NO No no... (If you do so, you may risk over heating the lamp shaft. So do so at your own risk)

BUT, take a look at how loosely the collars fit. Install the LED and see if some of the light is escaping around the gasket.... Do the math.
I might have put a little too much on mine (3-4 wraps over the whole LED shaft.) But I think a little around the adapter collar... will help with moisture, and a little where the two heat sink collars meet... will keep the collars from getting loose. I think common sense here should prevail. So far, my lamp has only gotten barely warm with no problems.
 

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I just got my Triton 2.5 switchbacks with these Mormito resistors you have pictured--have not installed the product yet--did they offer to send you different ones?? I have not opened mine up to check the soldering of the wires.

Do you have a name of the person you are dealing with at Vleds so I can make contact and see what they say?

Thnkx

Joe

No names, sorry. Just signed "VLEDS SUPPORT". Interesting that they sent you the same resistors. They told me that they don't sell those resistors no mo. Sadly, this gives one the impression that 'one hand doesn't know what the other hand is up to'.
 
VLEDS Resitor update

So I contacted Vleds after reading your post and they told me they have new resistors for the Triton 3 2.5 Version switchbacks and will accept the return of the Mirimoto resistors that they discontinued--not sure why they shipped them to me in the first place if they were discontinued...

VLEDS



see link
 
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Great. It will be your turn to write a review on those new resistors! LOL.
PLEASE let us know how those GEN 2.5's hold up. Mine flickered a little when they got wet in my last post... but they are dry and operating normally now. I guess the connectors got wet. I will know when I pull everything apart to double check them this week or next.
My last bit of advise here would be to just plug everything together and let them run before the final install. Then check and see how warm the LED shaft gets AND how hot the Resistors get (they can burn you for sure). That way you know what 'normal' is when it comes to these after market devices. And you can see if anything fails before you secure everything in there.
I would be interested in knowing which gasket you go with and if it fits. Please keep us updated.
 
DRL mod switch

[MENTION=15785]J.A.[/MENTION] I am looking for a switch with the same functionality (SPDT) as the Cole Hersee Part# 58027-03 that will fit one of the blank switch holes next to the center diff button. I'd prefer to not have to relocate rheostat knob. It looks like you have two openings where the rheostat knob was originally located. I only have one (2004 SE).

TIA
 
[MENTION=15785]J.A.[/MENTION] I am looking for a switch with the same functionality (SPDT) as the Cole Hersee Part# 58027-03 that will fit one of the blank switch holes next to the center diff button. I'd prefer to not have to relocate rheostat knob. It looks like you have two openings where the rheostat knob was originally located. I only have one (2004 SE).

TIA

I believe that with some minor trimming the switch i have fits there as well.
 
Dim wire install

Hello All,

Just to report I finally hooked up the "dim" wire to my parking lights. As I mentioned before, the "steady-on" mode is quite bright. You have the option to connect a wire from the triton assembly that detects a 12v+ and are dimmed 50% (when parking light is turned on). I was installing new retros on my truck so I thought, why not tackle this while I have the headlights out?

This is the passenger side. I like to use the voltmeter (prevents you from doing very preventable damage......... please don't ask how I know, LOL.) when tackling electric jobs. Anyway, as you can see, green wire is positive and 12V (win).
EE427287-E931-44DD-B937-CEE2614F931A_zps8jhkgxzt.jpg~original


Due to camera settings and other variables, I decided to take a picture of the switchback on the "on" position (full on vs. dimmed)
75479269-37BF-4E83-9F2D-B48C07344601_zps6zm0xydp.jpg~original


Looks as though they survived this nasty winter just fine. The hardware (wires/assembly box, etc) still looked new. I was sorry to see others have a bad experience with these, but so far, I love them!
 
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I'm sending a link to Toyota for them to view all of the mods you guys have done to your trucks and I'm going to ask them why haven't their useless sack of shit overpaid cock smoking douche bag designers thought of this shit and if they did then why wasn't it done in the first place. F'k them.

Yes I'm in a bad mood, sorry guys. Nothing personal. Awesome job by the way! Wanna come over for Beers and Barbeque and do this to my truck?
 
I'm sending a link to Toyota for them to view all of the mods you guys have done to your trucks and I'm going to ask them why haven't their useless sack of shit overpaid cock smoking douche bag designers thought of this shit and if they did then why wasn't it done in the first place. F'k them.

Yes I'm in a bad mood, sorry guys. Nothing personal. Awesome job by the way! Wanna come over for Beers and Barbeque and do this to my truck?

:lmao:Haha:lmao: That would take all the fun of modding away and we wouldnt have anything unique.
 
I'm sending a link to Toyota for them to view all of the mods you guys have done to your trucks and I'm going to ask them why haven't their useless sack of shit overpaid cock smoking douche bag designers thought of this shit and if they did then why wasn't it done in the first place. F'k them.

Yes I'm in a bad mood, sorry guys. Nothing personal. Awesome job by the way! Wanna come over for Beers and Barbeque and do this to my truck?
Agreed! Just got done an HID mod using corvette HID projectors and hardware. The difference is twice the illumination while still DOT compliant.
Why do that you ask... because I'm older and my eyes are not what they used to be!
Just check out my album for photos. Sorry, I can't figure out how to post them here from my iphone����
 
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Agreed! Just got done an HID mod using corvette HID projectors and hardware. The difference is twice the illumination while still DOT compliant.
Why do that you ask... because I'm older and my eyes are not what they used to be!
Just check out my album for photos. Sorry, I can't figure out how to post them here from my iphone����

LOL, I'm all about extra lighting that is DOT/SAE compliant except I'm lazy and I just bought some KC Fog lights for my bumper. If Toyota created a 4Runner that had every one of the mods the brilliant members on this forum did to their Runners, the truck would be like non other.
 
Sorry for bringing this back from the dead....

Is there any other option for switchbacks besides the $150 triton system?? I feel like it should be a fairly simple mod of splicing some wires and using a switchback bulb... I'm not about to spend that much money on something I won't even be able to see while I'm driving, no matter how cool it looks!
 
Sorry for bringing this back from the dead....

Is there any other option for switchbacks besides the $150 triton system?? I feel like it should be a fairly simple mod of splicing some wires and using a switchback bulb... I'm not about to spend that much money on something I won't even be able to see while I'm driving, no matter how cool it looks!

There are cheaper alternatives. There are "plug and play" LED bulbs on fleabay, but those are not well made and will NOT stand the test of time. I can't tell you how many people on other forums constantly have problems with them. $150 is alot, but these are very well made. Looks cool? Well yes, but there is a safety aspect to it. Having the white LEDs lit give it more of a presence (visibility)on the road vs. the stock amber lights (DRL).
 
There are cheaper alternatives. There are "plug and play" LED bulbs on fleabay, but those are not well made and will NOT stand the test of time. I can't tell you how many people on other forums constantly have problems with them. $150 is alot, but these are very well made. Looks cool? Well yes, but there is a safety aspect to it. Having the white LEDs lit give it more of a presence (visibility)on the road vs. the stock amber lights (DRL).

Oops, never saw this response!

Yea I agree it's also a "safety" thing, but if you can't see a big SUV in the middle of the day, you really shouldn't be driving, regardless of what color the DRL is. That being said, I feel like this is just a novelty mod to make it look cooler, and I don't really want to spend that much money on it. :/ I was hoping somebody new of a cheaper way to achieve this
 
Oops, never saw this response!

Yea I agree it's also a "safety" thing, but if you can't see a big SUV in the middle of the day, you really shouldn't be driving, regardless of what color the DRL is. That being said, I feel like this is just a novelty mod to make it look cooler, and I don't really want to spend that much money on it. :/ I was hoping somebody new of a cheaper way to achieve this

I totally understand. However, I insist it's more than a "cool" mod. My father in law was driving my 4R (while I was returning a minivan to the rent a car place) while he was following me, anyway, the LEDs got my attention a lot more than other cars with "regular" bulbs. Especially when turning. Yes, it's expensive, but you get what you pay for.

Good luck in your search!
 
Old thread revival. [MENTION=50507]CookieRoe[/MENTION] [MENTION=15785]J.A.[/MENTION]

This mod has been on my list for a while. I'm in the process of installing TRS switchback halo's, so I figured it would be a good time to upgrade the DRL/ turn signal bulb as well. I see VLED is currently taking preorders for their V6 Trotn, which claims:
Max Lumens: 900 WHITE 650 AMBER MAX (PER BULB)
Acculumen Output: 650 WHITE 500 AMBER

Now that these lights have been installed for a few years, has anyone changed their opinion of the Tritons? 650lm seems like an insane amount of light. :eyebrows::laser:
 
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Old thread revival. [MENTION=50507]CookieRoe[/MENTION] [MENTION=15785]J.A.[/MENTION]

This mod has been on my list for a while. I'm in the process of installing TRS switchback halo's, so I figured it would be a good time to upgrade the DRL/ turn signal bulb as well. I see VLED is currently taking preorders for their V6 Trotn, which claims:
Max Lumens: 900 WHITE 650 AMBER MAX (PER BULB)
Acculumen Output: 650 WHITE 500 AMBER

Now that these lights have been installed for a few years, has anyone changed their opinion of the Tritons? 650lm seems like an insane amount of light. :eyebrows::laser:

I've had my Tritons for about 2 1/2 years and continue to love them. Gives the 4R a "new" look (with all the LED DRL new cars have nowadays). Yes, they are bright, but don't forget to install the "dim" wire (connected to headlights), otherwise they stay crazy bright when you have the parking lights on. Then, yes, the light can be too much.

Note: I've had to change one bulb so far and another one has be changed. Not sure why this is happening, but they have a lifetime warranty. When I took out the defective bulb, it's still looked new. The metal base of the bulb looked new. Anyway, vLeds stand by their products.

Good luck!
 

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