Dynamating..

[iFlyUSCG]

So I have read a lot of good things about at the very least dynamating your doors.

I was wondering what people's experiences with dynamat have been like, where you would recommend putting the stuff, and also how much you would use.

Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[TOYSTRY]

So I have read a lot of good things about at the very least dynamating your doors.

I was wondering what people's experiences with dynamat have been like, where you would recommend putting the stuff, and also how much you would use.

Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.

I use to install it daily. It's a good product, pricey though. With all the new developments over the last 10 years I'm guessing there is something less expensive that does the same trick (I know harper7 used edead) and is happy with his results.

Of note, installing is tedious and a PITA so be prepared. Heat gun and roller are HIGHLY recommended.

 

[shishibo]

glad this topic came up.... can someone give me some instructions or photos on removing the rear hatch/ tail? want to replace my stock & dynamat the rear. thanx.

 

[iDRiVaT4R]

I used B-Quiet inside my doors and rear hatch. The rear hatch panel is easy. Just start at the window with the hatch opened and pry down carefully. Then I removed the speaker brackets to get more working clearance.

 

[Speedy Babo]

Be careful with what brand you use, as some use asphalt based. Asphalt based is cheaper but it can smell bad, like tar, and also fall off and melt when it gets really hot. You want a product that is butyl based, which dynamat is. The term dynamatting has become synonymous with sound dampening.

You also don't need too much. Covering 25% of flat metal surfaces is enough to get rid of the resonating sound. Covering more than that only adds more weight for very little more return. 'Dynamatting' is more about controlling sound resonance, not sound blocking or absorption. The resonance I refer to is what you get from a vibrating surface, like a cymbal.

Don't expect your car to be more quiet inside with only dynamatting. You need another layer to absorb and block the sound. Like closed cell foam and a mass loaded vinyl layer. Read here for better info.Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

I've used Raamat, dynamat, second skin, and sound deadener showdown products and all are butyl based and have very good reviews. I prefer sound deadener as they have the thickest butyl and aluminum layer.

 

[shishibo]

do you need to take the tail interior lights out or can you leave it in for a faster process? thanx. had my whole system redone, but didn't do the hatch... don't ask. anyways, hoping to replace the stocks will have a better rearfill. just wanting to save cost & try on my own...

 

[iFlyUSCG]

Don't expect your car to be more quiet inside with only dynamatting. You need another layer to absorb and block the sound. Like closed cell foam and a mass loaded vinyl layer. Read here for better info.Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

Do any of you guys have any experience with the Mass Loaded Vinyl Barrier or the Vinyl/Nitrile Closed Cell Foam?

I already ordered a couple bulk packs of Dynamat that have about 36 sq ft per pack, and I am wondering if I should order either the foam or barrier as well and install it at the same time as dynamat.

Are there anymore gains to be achieved from the stuff? I read the info on the site and feel like I am being sold. I want to know if anyone has any first hand experience with the stuff.

 

[Foques]

Toystry must have some big arms on him. I had it done on all my cars, and every time I do it, I swear to myself that it is the last time i'm doing it.. I have no idea how installers deal with this daily - I usually can't feel my arms for the next day..

 

[Speedy Babo]

Do any of you guys have any experience with the Mass Loaded Vinyl Barrier or the Vinyl/Nitrile Closed Cell Foam?

I already ordered a couple bulk packs of Dynamat that have about 36 sq ft per pack, and I am wondering if I should order either the foam or barrier as well and install it at the same time as dynamat.

Are there anymore gains to be achieved from the stuff? I read the info on the site and feel like I am being sold. I want to know if anyone has any first hand experience with the stuff.

Dynamatting will make the resonance go away. Try the rap test, which is tapping the middle of your door on the outside. That tinny, hollow feeling and sound will go away so your sound is tighter and more full sounding. You'll also get the satisfying thud when you close your door. It won't do as much if your looking for a quiet cabin.

You need to absorb and block sound if you want that quietness. MLV (mass loaded vinyl) serves as a sound barrier and is used in sound studios and in buildings. I've bought mine at warehouses that sell to building contractors as its cheaper. This alone on top of the dynamat should be sufficient, but for max benefit, you put a closed cell foam in-between the dynamat and the MLV.

Check out some car audio forums. A simple google search...

Toystry must have some big arms on him. I had it done on all my cars, and every time I do it, I swear to myself that it is the last time i'm doing it.. I have no idea how installers deal with this daily - I usually can't feel my arms for the next day..

I hear ya, first time took three days with cuts all over my hands. Better than paying someone $$$ to do it and your satisfaction is priceless

 

[K.C.]

...just a little inspiration...

Sound Proofing Project Day 1,2
The Josh's Build - Page 22 - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

the_josh Build Thread
The Josh's Build - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

via the_josh

 

[iFlyUSCG]

Dynamatting will make the resonance go away. Try the rap test, which is tapping the middle of your door on the outside. That tinny, hollow feeling and sound will go away so your sound is tighter and more full sounding. You'll also get the satisfying thud when you close your door. It won't do as much if your looking for a quiet cabin.

You need to absorb and block sound if you want that quietness. MLV (mass loaded vinyl) serves as a sound barrier and is used in sound studios and in buildings. I've bought mine at warehouses that sell to building contractors as its cheaper. This alone on top of the dynamat should be sufficient, but for max benefit, you put a closed cell foam in-between the dynamat and the MLV.

Check out some car audio forums. A simple google search...

For sure. I understand the difference between removing the resonance with dynamat and blocking the sound with MLV. I have just never heard of anyone using the MLV or the closed cell foam (sorry I am a noob). I did a very cursory google search of both the MLV and CCF, but only found stuff about home sound proofing. Just wondering if anyone here had used it and how they felt about it in an auto situation.

It did seem that MLV was pretty dense, about 1lbs per sq. ft. Would this be something I should be concerned with when installing in an a car? Seems like the weight could add up pretty quickly? I dunno. This is my first new car that I have really cared enough to want to mod and make it my own. Please bare with me. :nerd:

 

[TOYSTRY]

Toystry must have some big arms on him. I had it done on all my cars, and every time I do it, I swear to myself that it is the last time i'm doing it.. I have no idea how installers deal with this daily - I usually can't feel my arms for the next day..

It's not my arms that were sore but my fingers. I swear every time I installed it I felt like my finger tips were melting away (I used a heat gun to apply it).

Glad those days are over.....

 

[Foques]

oh you're one of those installers. My buddy can do that stuff, pulls lettering (when debadging a car), lays heated dynamat like it is nothing special.. Every time I try that, I get burned. lol

couldn't stand the heat, so had to get me a roller.
<jealous.

 

[Speedy Babo]

For sure. I understand the difference between removing the resonance with dynamat and blocking the sound with MLV. I have just never heard of anyone using the MLV or the closed cell foam (sorry I am a noob). I did a very cursory google search of both the MLV and CCF, but only found stuff about home sound proofing. Just wondering if anyone here had used it and how they felt about it in an auto situation.

It did seem that MLV was pretty dense, about 1lbs per sq. ft. Would this be something I should be concerned with when installing in an a car? Seems like the weight could add up pretty quickly? I dunno. This is my first new car that I have really cared enough to want to mod and make it my own. Please bare with me. :nerd:

Glad to help. It doesn't matter where you get dynamat, MLV, foam, etc. As long as it fits the purpose, is good quality, and accomplishes what you want. High end luxury cars have some sort of resonance blocker and MLV/foam in them. Even cheaper cars have some type of incorporated insulation. I've found some installs online where they even used 2lbs per sq. ft. MLV (about 1/4 in. thick versus 1/8 in. thick).

You don't have to go overboard. If you think the stock cabin noise is good enough, just add dynamat and maybe even some closed cell foam, like harper7 did, just not as much. https://picasaweb.google.com/110764526188420500909/InteriorSoundDeadeningWithEDead

If weight is an issue, as dynamat and MLV are heavy, its easy to add 100lbs from the install. The weights evenly distributed so I doubt you'll notice the difference, unlike adding an ARB bumper... In my opinion, just use enough dynamat to get rid of resonance on flat metal parts. Add about 25% to the area, tap it to test, and move on if it doesn't sound tinny anymore. Adding 1/8in. closed cell foam is easy to work with and is light enough.

oh you're one of those installers. My buddy can do that stuff, pulls lettering (when debadging a car), lays heated dynamat like it is nothing special.. Every time I try that, I get burned. lol

couldn't stand the heat, so had to get me a roller.
<jealous.

I've never installed anything below 65 degrees F here in socal.:trophy: