^^ in response to you guys, i DID splice my lines together because it doesn't make sense to me to run them seperately. i essentially followed the DIY video called the "scuba mod" where they build their breather system exactly like that. i followed it piece by piece, since the FJ and the 5th gen share the same parts. here's a link to the video:
YouTube
i strongly suggest watching the video to see how he constructed the brass tee fitting, since my pics don't show it well.
and here's my installation. sorry for the garbage pics but it was the best i could do in a confined space without the vehicle up on ramps or jack stands.
parts used:
• Toyota 90404-51026 Intake Air Control Valve Union (aka diff breather fitting), $11.99
• Oregon 02-040 Hose Clamps 10 Pack, $5.32
• (2) LDR 516 F146 ¼ Inch ID Fuel Line for Small Engines 6-Foot Length, $9.99 ea
• Spectre Performance 3991 Black 9mm Breather Filter $11.99
• 1/8-in Barbed Barb x MIP Adapter Fitting, BHB-85NLB from Lowes $3.48 (for the e-locker to tee connection)
• 1/4-in Barbed Splicer Adapter Fitting, BHB-190NLB (to connect the second run of breather line) from Lowes $3.48
• 1/4-in Threaded Tee Fitting, BF-730NLB from Lowes $7.38
• (2) 1/4-in Barbed Barb x MIP Adapter Fitting, BHB-192NLB from Lowes $3.48 ea (for the filter to tee and axle to tee connections)
total cost was $70.58 if i did my maths right.
i already had zip ties, mini hose clamps, teflon tape for the brass threads, and scrap metal for the mounting bracket so those parts were "free".
i used a cheap 9mm filter mounted to some scrap aluminum and re-used a bracket bolt next to the ground on the passenger side to mount to. 1/4" fuel line all the way back. 12 ft of it (it came in 2 six foot packages) was exactly enough. even though it used more line to do so, i chose to mount on the passenger side due to the ease of mounting (no fighting to get around the brake master cylinder and booster) on an existing bracket and not drilling into the body, and the fact i have no plans to mount anything else there like an air compressor or second battery. i tucked the line up on the frame rail for protection and exhaust heat avoidance, and crossed over the drive shaft using an existing conduit for some other line and wires so it was protected. then sent it over the fuel tank, and back to the axle.
looking towards the rear, over the top of the axle pumpkin. the bright green zip tie is the e-locker connection, using the stock e-locker rubber tubing. the open tube is where the e-locker breather
used to go up towards the frame via that ribbed plastic conduit, but as you can see it now connects to the shared brass junction instead. top line heads up to the filter, rear line connects to the axle breather. using a few more zip-ties, i was able to securely mount the brass junction to the pedestal where the e-locker wires are mounted to take any strain off of the rubber lines having to support it.
from the back of the axle looking forward. the axle breather was replaced with a toyota OEM part that has a longer extended barb to mount the line on. plenty of slack in the fuel line going forward from the brass junction up to the tank, to allow articulation without yanking the line apart.
total cost was about the same as the ARB kit, but i much prefer the heavy rubber lines compared to their thinner plastic lines.
