ECGS Clamshell CV Axle Bushing Install

you ever get this sorted? I have virtually the same symptoms minus any vibration.

-Noise starts at 30mph, 1,500-2,000rpm
-Quiet as a mouse up to 30mph
-Cant tell if it stops around 45mph or the wind and engine noise cancel it out
-Much quieter but can still be heard in 4hi
-Goes away as soon as I'm off throttle but can be heard slightly when breaking to a stop.
-Recently replaced both CV axles and front diff fluid.

Having a shop look at it on monday. It's over 100f here and I'm without a garage. Dont really feel like digging around under the truck in an open parking lot right now. I didnt feel any excessive play in my axles, maaaaybe a mil in either direction. Dont think the needle bearing was damaged or bad as the sound *seems* to be more pronounced on the passenger side. Theres a neighborhood behind me with a long cinder block wall, when I drive past in either direction the sound appears to be more pronounced on the passenger side regardless.


Anything is greatly appreciated. Kind of at a loss. Have pulled the CV's twice to be absolutely sure everything was seated. No leaks from the diff, everythings flush as it should be.

After reading thru this post I'm maybe leaning to something driveline related. Going to have the shop grease all of the driveline points (theres like 5 or 6?) and see if that helps. Reeeally dont want to pull it back apart again.

I did just lift it a few months ago, hence the CV replacement. I'm wondering if my increased driveshaft angle coupled with little grease is whats causing that sound. Really scratching my head over this one. Almost wish there was some vibration to help narrow it down

I had the vibration after a 3" lift, thought it was pinion angle. Changed out both front CV's with trakmotive CV axles and did the drivers side ECGS bushing install, completely fixed the issue.
 
I had the vibration after a 3" lift, thought it was pinion angle. Changed out both front CV's with trakmotive CV axles and did the drivers side ECGS bushing install, completely fixed the issue.


this sound developed after lift and trakmotive cv install. I'm 99% sure the needle bearing is intact and fine. whats confusing is no vibration and the sound coming predominantly from the passenger side. fwiw the passenger side of the diff doesnt have a needle bearing? Not sure what that sides set up is like or what the symptoms of that side failing are. Both CV's seated well, no major slop etc. Having the shop look at it tomorrow and hopefully they'll find something. The sound is driving me nuts, its all i can listen for when driving
 
this sound developed after lift and trakmotive cv install. I'm 99% sure the needle bearing is intact and fine. whats confusing is no vibration and the sound coming predominantly from the passenger side. fwiw the passenger side of the diff doesnt have a needle bearing? Not sure what that sides set up is like or what the symptoms of that side failing are. Both CV's seated well, no major slop etc. Having the shop look at it tomorrow and hopefully they'll find something. The sound is driving me nuts, its all i can listen for when driving

didn't really want to start a new thread so maybe someone here can chime in.

Had my mechanic take a drive with me so I could replicate the sound. He agreed it seems like the needle bearing. I understand that while they may appear to be in good condition, but after you lift that new angle of wear can cause them to fail pretty rapidly. Makes sense, its been at a certain angle for 225k miles and will fail once that angle of wear is dramatically increased with a lift.


My question is: will just replacing the needle bearing (with another OEM needle bearing) be ok or is it really recommended that you go with the bushing upgrade after a lift?

I ask because I'm kind of hesitant to ask my mechanic to do something that involves reading/watching a bunch of 3rd party manufacturer instructions/videos. I'd rather be able to give him an OEM part and have him replace it, if that makes sense. I would do it myself but this time of year in the desert its 100º every day and I don't have a garage. Not ideal.


Couldn't find any threads that discusses using another OEM bearing, only ones that discuss the merits of the ECGR bushing.
 
didn't really want to start a new thread so maybe someone here can chime in.

Had my mechanic take a drive with me so I could replicate the sound. He agreed it seems like the needle bearing. I understand that while they may appear to be in good condition, but after you lift that new angle of wear can cause them to fail pretty rapidly. Makes sense, its been at a certain angle for 225k miles and will fail once that angle of wear is dramatically increased with a lift.


My question is: will just replacing the needle bearing (with another OEM needle bearing) be ok or is it really recommended that you go with the bushing upgrade after a lift?

I ask because I'm kind of hesitant to ask my mechanic to do something that involves reading/watching a bunch of 3rd party manufacturer instructions/videos. I'd rather be able to give him an OEM part and have him replace it, if that makes sense. I would do it myself but this time of year in the desert its 100º every day and I don't have a garage. Not ideal.


Couldn't find any threads that discusses using another OEM bearing, only ones that discuss the merits of the ECGR bushing.

I would recommend the ECGS bushing, in reality replacing the needle bearing like for like is gunna be about the same as just having them install the bushing. I’d say it’s just about the same exact process just a different part.
 
What I never understood is.... how does the bushing work? I mean if the needle bearing spins then what the hell is the bushing doing if it's in a fixed position? Or did the needle bearing stay stationary?
 
What I never understood is.... how does the bushing work? I mean if the needle bearing spins then what the hell is the bushing doing if it's in a fixed position? Or did the needle bearing stay stationary?

The needle bearing of course spins. It's a bearing. The bushing just tightens up the connection of the CV shaft with the differential. The CV axle spins inside the bushing and is lubricated by the differential gear oil.
 
My front diff doesn’t have a needle bearing

I bought the ECGS bushing for my 2011 4Runner Limited. I pulled everything apart but there is no needle bearing. Instead there is a double row bushing with quite a larger OD than the ECGS bushing, ECGS bushing has an OD of 1.594” and ID of 1.378”. I can’t get a perfect measurement on the bushing in the housing but it is approx 1.970” OD and 1.400” ID. The CV axle fits good inside that bushing in the housing.
I can’t find any information anywhere on that bushing/housing combination. No idea what’s going on.
 

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Even though this is the 3rd gen section, is your 4runner an AWD model? If it is, it doesn't work on your 4runner. States it under the description.
 
Long term use feedback of this bushing never hear about that, wonder why?

Couldn't use it with Harrop wonder how things panned out for those that have.
 
Long term use feedback of this bushing never hear about that, wonder why?

Couldn't use it with Harrop wonder how things panned out for those that have.
Even if the ECGS bushing lasts 1/2 as long as the OE needle bearing (even though it is supposed to last longer?), it would still take 100k miles to wear out. I suspect that's why there isn't much talk of failure on those...

I did have ECGS install the bushing on my front diff when the built it for me (requires machining of the diff I used to fit).

-Charlie
 
[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] ah right was hoping users would chime in get some fresh info!
ECGS did my Harrop install bushing was discussed years for apple to apple comparison.

Can't use it my interest stems from using both in industrial applications, 600k+ mi 2 T4r's.
Gona take fa eva to see if I picked right :dammit:
 
Even though this is the 3rd gen section, is your 4runner an AWD model? If it is, it doesn't work on your 4runner. States it under the description.

Ahhh, I think you are right. I have been confused as to trying to understand whether my drivetrain is part-time 4wd or AWD. Thanks for the tip, I didn’t even notice that in the description. Seems very hard to find info on the AWD model as even on Toyotas parts website I could only find the needle bearing.
Thanks!
 

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