Electric fan for a/c and coolant suggestions?

[PRdubi]

Using the ac more and more in my 86 4runner but the temperature goes up considerably when it sits idle. Hankering to install and replace the fan setups with an electric...any suggestions in the right direction? Which model or is there a simple diy or factory direct fit.

 

[KidVermicious]

If you're getting temp spikes using the AC at idle then something is wrong. Installing an electric fan just masks the symptoms and introduces another point of failure.

I'd start by looking at your stock fan clutch and making sure it's working correctly.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Concur with KidV. I'm working on mine as we speak. Before I even replace the fan clutch(aka liquid coupling), I want to actually measure how stock coupling performs. There are posts on how to have an idea how it works, but I want more exact measurements so:

• I'll know exactly whether I made improvement or not, and
• Can share measurements with fellow members

Some methods I have in mind:

• Seeing many seconds after ignition is turned off does fan stop turning? Count when cold and could at operating temp. More coupling at hot temp means fan stops sooner. Less coupling when cold means fan will stop later. When hot, mine stops 8 seconds after ignition is turned off. How about yours?
• Measuring turning force of fan when cold and at op temp using this setup.
• Measuring RPM of fan versus RPM of main shaft with non-contact tachometer like this, that I already ordered.

 

[Night_Wolf84]

I'm interested to see what's the better choice here. When I first bought my Runner, the PO put on a useless 8'' electric fan, cause of the body lift he installed.
At the time I didn't know any better, so I replaced the 8'' fan with the expensive Flex-a-lite 15'' electric fan and have been running with it. However, over the years, I found out it's an alright replacement for a 4Runner that's completely stock, not for one that has more weight added to it.
The fan can keep the engine cool, as long as I'm in stop-in-go traffic or wheeling. When the temp. outside is over 90 degrees, going over 60mph on the highway, it just doesn't cut it...and forget about turning the A/C on, it just makes it worse.
I had thought about going back to the ol' belt driven fan, but I'm unsure if it'll solve my issue. Not to mention I have to fabricate a shroud, cause of the body lift.

I'm thinking of selling the Flex-a-lite one and getting an electric fan out of a '90-'95 Taurus. I've heard it works very well and has 2 speeds. 1st speed pulls 3000cfm and the 2nd pulls 5600cfm.

 

[wshiverick]

I was having all sorts of wonky temp issues for the last few months. It would take forever to get to operating temp (which seemed to be at about 1/4 of the temp gauge) and then at long idles or driving uphill i was getting to about 7/8 of the way up. Last weekend I gave my cooling system a good flush and filled it with toyota red and a new thermostat. After that it heated up to 1/2 the gauge right away but still got a little hot on uphills. Replaced my fan clutch today and drove a bunch of steep hills up to the mountains and it didn't go about the halfway point the whole time. The new clutch works great and you can hear the difference. Theres plenty of space inside the shroud so Id guess if your body lift isn't too huge you'd probably be fine putting the OEM back in. or just take the bottom piece off the shroud/cut off the bottom. Its not like it really does much.

 

[wshiverick]

And as for a test to see if its working right, put your hand above the fan with the engine on, then rev the engine (either use a friend or just push the throttle body). It should increase notably in speed with the rpms of the engine. My old one was pretty weak and didn't increase. The new one is at least twice as strong at idle and then blows significantly harder at higher rpm. If you're not sure if its getting stronger, its not working.

 

[itgogitrev]

Glad I saw this; it reminded me to get the bump stops. My wife is convinced that the wheels are going to fall off once it's at full lock.

 

[RAD4Runner]

OEM Fan with OEM Fan Clutch More Reliable

James Ederer, owner of SD Truck Shop, who used to race a 22R-E in Baja, who therefore knows his 22R-E, says OEM Fan with OEM Fan Clutch is more reliable than efan in the long run.

I concur. Evidence is many of us in this forum have fan and clutches (aka fluid coupling) that have lasted around 3 decades. Correct me if I'm wrong

Advantage of eFan is less mechanical load to engine when you need bursts of power for competition, because you take power from the battery, not loading the main shaft pulley. Disadvantage is less reliable. OK for competition truck that's only needed for a short periods of time for competitions - then inspected before the next race. Not daily driver you wanna keep for years.

 

[KidVermicious]

The other upside to an efan is the ability to switch it off for super-deep water crossings, but how many of us do that on a regular basis?

I am interested to know if a Black Magic flex-a-lite mounted to the stock clutch would be more effective. I hope somebody to get far enough along on my mod list to try it out.

 

[Night_Wolf84]

Theres plenty of space inside the shroud so Id guess if your body lift isn't too huge you'd probably be fine putting the OEM back in. or just take the bottom piece off the shroud/cut off the bottom. Its not like it really does much.

I have a 3in. body lift. I didn't have an OEM fan cause the PO probably threw it away, but I already went ahead and bought a used fan w/ attached clutch and a OEM shroud from a junkyard, so I guess it wouldn't hurt giving it a try.
Still, I'm going to fab up a shroud of somesort to cover the entire radiator, cause I think the main problem I'm having is airflow issues.
My truck only overheats when it's 90+ degrees out while going over 50mph on the highway.

 

[giro]

I'm going to fab up a shroud of somesort to cover the entire radiator, cause I think the main problem I'm having is airflow issues.
My truck only overheats when it's 90+ degrees out while going over 50mph on the highway.

I thought normally the toughest times for the radiator were at low speeds with high engine output. So stop and go traffic. Or in 4wd Lo going up a hill.

At higher speeds, even at higher temps, the radiator should be getting good airflow from just driving, unless it's coated in bug parts or you put a winch and lights and other stuff in front of it.

When I lived in Phoenix it wasn't just the heat, but the times where you were stuck in traffic in the heat. A friend's Land Cruiser with a V8 corvette engine in it was fine most of the time, but gave out on us on a 100+ day when stuck in traffic on the way up to the Grand Canyon.

 

[PRdubi]

I'm gonna replace the fan clutch on mines and see if it makes a difference.

 

[Night_Wolf84]

At higher speeds, even at higher temps, the radiator should be getting good airflow from just driving, unless you put a winch and lights and other stuff in front of it.

That's exactly what I did hwell:
It's been on my fix it list to move the control box and lights lower. However, it's been doing this even before the new bumper, lights, winch, etc.

 

[giro]

That's exactly what I did hwell:
It's been on my fix it list to move the control box and lights lower. However, it's been doing this even before the new bumper, lights, winch, etc.

But where's the bug parts???

Even with that setup I'd think you should have decent airflow. The cheap and easy solution might be cleaning the radiator, inside and out, and see if it then happens to work ok. If not, then you could move on to other options.