Electrical Schematic? Rewire accessory plugs.

[Keith_PDX]

I have downloaded the factory repair manuals that were linked here but they do not contain the electrical schematics.

I would like to re-source all of the accessory plugs (aka cigarette lighter plugs) to run off of my accessory battery rather than the stock start battery but utilize the factory wiring.

I was hoping I could just feed the stock supply fuse with a different source but I wanted to verify that there wasn't also a relay in there AFTER the fuse which is what's turning the system off when the car shuts down. I searched but didn't find anything specific to this request. Any help is appreciated before I start cutting/splicing/tapping and running my own experiments.

Thanks!
Keith

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

I would suggest to just wire it directly to your batteries instead of trying to piggyback off of other stock wiring, there's a lot of stuff going on with the 4 runner's electrical system and its just safer to go direct.

Run a new awg8 wire with a 30A inline fuse at the accessory battery (or better yet, a circuit breaker), run it into the cab through one of the plugs in the firewall, then tap off for each of the 3 cig lighter plugs with a 10A fuse at each of the cig plugs.

I rewired my rear cig plug for constant from the battery a couple months ago, it really wasn't that hard to get the wiring from battery all the way to the rear, and there was plenty of room in the door sillplates for probably an awg4 wire! Because I just did the rear-most plug only, I just used the cheapo amp installation kit from Walmart with 8 gauge wire. Came with the ring terminals and a fuse holder for (IIRC) 20 bucks, but it was a bit short to get all the way to the back of the 4 runner, but I had an extra 3 feet to make up the shortage and just soldered/heatshrunk the extra bit onto the end. You really need 25 feet to make it directly from the battery (including the short piece into your fuse holder @ the battery) to the plug in the rear.

 

[Keith_PDX]

Thanks for the feedback. That was the second choice route if I cannot determine how to re-feed the stock circuits from another source. It shouldn't be rocket science and since they are power circuits there should not be any adverse implication to the rest of the electrical system.

 

[Antman]

Thanks for the feedback. That was the second choice route if I cannot determine how to re-feed the stock circuits from another source. It shouldn't be rocket science and since they are power circuits there should not be any adverse implication to the rest of the electrical system.

Problem is the diagrams we have available are for the 2010 models. Toyota likes to make little changes every year, it seems. I have noticed differences from the '10 diagrams to what I actually have in my '11 during my hacking, lol.

I understand what you are trying to do but unless you get the correct schematics to reference I'm with [MENTION=118444]flyinhawaiian01[/MENTION] on this one.

Good luck.

 

[rigtec]

"...I would like to re-source all of the accessory plugs (aka cigarette lighter plugs) to run off of my accessory battery rather than the stock start battery but utilize the factory wiring..."

Hi Keith,

I understand your goal regarding 'circuit partitioning' but I'd be aware that attempting to separate circuits that are 'integrated' such as the cigarette lighter or courtesy lighting, etc... will be 'difficult at best' since the HOT (+) side of those fuses share a common line buss, which is tied directly to the alternator 'B TERM'/Start battery. If I may offer this: If it were my electrical scheme, I might leave those 'accessory power distribution branches' right where they are to avoid a potential circuitry overlap (or a back-feed) between the two designated power sources (AUX Batt/Start Batt). And then I might include an auxiliary cigarette lighter/USB charging port etc, in the NEW auxiliary breaker (sub) panel ...'Just my 0.0002 cents'!

These are the electrical manuals that I'm currently using. They are the 2011 4Runner 'limited' from Mitchell Manuals on-line. The pages have been quite accurate wrt the actual wire color coding, component locations, 'harness connectors/junction block identification', pin-out numbering/positioning etc... I think their pricing is very fair; depending on how often you'll use them and what you will use them for e.g., your own vehicles, side job customers... they've saved me probably... 'THOUSANDS', in avoided visits to the dealership! Here's their Annual Contract Pricing page; hope you'll find this helpful!

Best to you!

 

[Keith_PDX]

Thanks guys. I did a little digging on this and its not as easy as I had hoped. I am just going to run a new (+) wire to each plug off of my Blue Sea distribution block.