Electrical Wiring(lights, fridge, etc.) - 1 wire or 2 wires

Do you run 1 (+ve) only or both (+ve & -ve)?


  • Total voters
    6

jicko

New member
When wiring up your offroad lights (Rigids etc...), fridges (ARB or so), compressor, and maybe a winch, do you patch both +ve and -ve wires directly from your power source (battery) OR do you only run the +ve wire and then depending on the vehicle's body to be the ground (chassis ground), ie. just tie -ve of your device to the closest ground point?

I just want to see what you guys have done and what you guys think?

Running 1 wire is easier than 2.... per device (especially if you have more than a few of them) :-)
 
Register to hide this ad
Just a suggestion but have you considered running an auxiliary fuse box . Not for the winch obviously , but for all the smaller draw circuits . I have about a dozen separate circuits on my truck , yup it all started with off road lights . You're going to have a rats nest of hot leads coming off your pos. terminal as the mods add up.



And I do a chasis ground when possible ...
 
Totally..... I am working on a custom Fuse and Relay box solution...... this box here can support 10 fuses and 5 relays.... seems to be a great solution....

Relay Combo Panel - Sealed Mini Fuse & ISO 280 Mini - Partially Bussed
15303224_primary.jpg


ISO 280 Micro Relay - with Resistor
74980_primary.jpg


After that, I would still have to run individual "hot (+ve)" wires to each device.
 
Switch box I made.

One positive in, one ground out, and wires to the lights.
 

Attachments

  • Box1.jpg
    Box1.jpg
    109 KB · Views: 348
  • Box2.jpg
    Box2.jpg
    83.1 KB · Views: 320
There is no reason to run a ground to the battery on a 4Runner. Find a factory ground point and use it.

Running grounds to the battery on a fiberglass boat? Yes. 4Runner? No.
 
But less headache running all the wiring to switches and I can keep it near stock inside the truck. You can use their console and also there is a phone option to connect to the Spod.

Of course this involves me spending money on buying the lights I would like to install on the truck.

LED Rock Lights | ATV / UTV | Jeep | Rock Crawlers | Truck Bed Lighting - like to divide these into front, rear, hood and under car so that would take up some slots on the spod. I love that you can just magnet them to whatever metal you want.

Plus the grille install with a 20 inch light and maybe another set of lights on a Gobi in the future. My wife likes the fold out tent idea so I maybe going that route someday.

Since Iceland took all my savings I have to count on the group buys :)
 
There is no reason to run a ground to the battery on a 4Runner. Find a factory ground point and use it.

Running grounds to the battery on a fiberglass boat? Yes. 4Runner? No.

So, for powering the fridge in my cargo area, all I need is a single HOT 12 or 14 gauge wire? (assuming 20ft, with a max of 15A, 14 gauge should be good enough... even 16 should be ok....) and ground to any chassis ground point?
 
So, for powering the fridge in my cargo area, all I need is a single HOT 12 or 14 gauge wire? (assuming 20ft, with a max of 15A, 14 gauge should be good enough... even 16 should be ok....) and ground to any chassis ground point?

No way man! Run some 10 or even 8 gauge back there for that fridge. The numbers will tell you that smaller gauge wire will work, but in real life you will not be happy with the performance of the fridge with such small wire. 20ft is a long run too.... Tons of supporting evidence to back this up on the all conquering internet too, lol.

Seriously though, 10 minimum, 8 would be slightly overkill but better.
Use a similar sized ground wire. Keep the ground to the chassis as short as possible.

The more efficient your wiring, the more efficient the fridge will be!
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,111
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top