LittleCaesar
New member
I wonder if the OP got it running yet? I hope he posts his findings when he does.
engine starts, immediate stall after timing belt job
- Thread starter 1blink
- Start date
I had no time to work on it since last night. No closer to running yet. Tomorrow, it is my one priority. Will start trouble shooting after breakfast, not giving up till it runs.
Any suggestions are welcome, I am still baffled.
When I trace my gremlin, i will be sure to post it.
Regards the crank timing mark, yes, I used the pink tooth for timing, although initially I was very confused by the dot. Had to rub dust off the teeth before I could see the pink tooth.
Any suggestions are welcome, I am still baffled.
When I trace my gremlin, i will be sure to post it.
Regards the crank timing mark, yes, I used the pink tooth for timing, although initially I was very confused by the dot. Had to rub dust off the teeth before I could see the pink tooth.
where is the diagnostic box? Does it have another name? My searches yeilded nothing.
LittleCaesar
New member
It is sometimes hard as heck to diagnose a problem without being there. This seems to be one of those times.
Before removing the old belt, all the marks for the cam and crank were lined up with their respective marks correct? When taking off the cam and crank gears to replace the seals, did you move rotate or move either cam(s) or crank?
The ground strap is right below the diagnostic, screwed onto the intake manifold, almost right above the oil dipstick.
Before removing the old belt, all the marks for the cam and crank were lined up with their respective marks correct? When taking off the cam and crank gears to replace the seals, did you move rotate or move either cam(s) or crank?
The ground strap is right below the diagnostic, screwed onto the intake manifold, almost right above the oil dipstick.
i see the ground screw now, below the diagnosis port. nothing wrong there.
before removing the t-belt, crank and cam timing marks were lined up.
as i removed the right cam gear, the cam spun. I completed the rotation to get it back into position. left cam and crank did not move during gear removal/replacement.
before removing the t-belt, crank and cam timing marks were lined up.
as i removed the right cam gear, the cam spun. I completed the rotation to get it back into position. left cam and crank did not move during gear removal/replacement.
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The cams rotate at half of the crankshaft speed. You need to verify the cam timing, in relation to the crank.
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LittleCaesar
New member
You may be 180 degrees out of time thanks to the physical rotation of the cam. It might be as easy as rotating that cam one revolution forward. Since I have never had to manually time this engine, I cannot really say, and don't want to give bad advice.
I would think that you could see if both cams in both heads were in time but the valve covers would have to come off. Here is a link for such:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/84683-tb-hg-photo-timeline.html
I would think that you could see if both cams in both heads were in time but the valve covers would have to come off. Here is a link for such:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/84683-tb-hg-photo-timeline.html
today's trouble shooting yielded the following discovery:
coil packs on cylinders 3 and 5 spark appropriately
****coil pack on cylinder 1 does not produce spark to either of it's 2 plugs
it is NOT the coil pack, as known good coils fail to fire when connected to cylinder one's wiring harness
i have tested the cam sensor, crank sensor, wiring between coil packs and igniter, and the wiring between the igniter and the ecu. all these things were ok.
it seems that i have either a bad ignition control module, or a bad ecu. anyone have experience with a similar problem?
also to note, compression test was good on all 6 cylinders.
fuel systems were tested, fuel pressure is good
has anyone had an igniter fail?
Full disclosure:
I failed to disconnect the battery prior to doing the timing belt job
coil packs on cylinders 3 and 5 spark appropriately
****coil pack on cylinder 1 does not produce spark to either of it's 2 plugs
it is NOT the coil pack, as known good coils fail to fire when connected to cylinder one's wiring harness
i have tested the cam sensor, crank sensor, wiring between coil packs and igniter, and the wiring between the igniter and the ecu. all these things were ok.
it seems that i have either a bad ignition control module, or a bad ecu. anyone have experience with a similar problem?
also to note, compression test was good on all 6 cylinders.
fuel systems were tested, fuel pressure is good
has anyone had an igniter fail?
Full disclosure:
I failed to disconnect the battery prior to doing the timing belt job
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testing this morning now makes me suspect the ecu rather than the igniter
voltage testing at the ecu pin outs leading to igniter show voltage on wires triggering coils 2 and 3, but no voltage on wire triggering coil 1 while cranking the engine.
similarly, testing the same pin outs for presence of ground, ground is present on pin outs for coil packs 2 and 3, but blinks out in time when cranking the engine, but ground on pin for coil 1 stays constant when cranking the engine...it does not blink out in time when cranking.
before i buy a new ECU, can anybody think of an alternative cause? it would be a shame to buy a new ecu and that not be the problem.
anybody have a used ECU they want to let go at a reasonable price?
voltage testing at the ecu pin outs leading to igniter show voltage on wires triggering coils 2 and 3, but no voltage on wire triggering coil 1 while cranking the engine.
similarly, testing the same pin outs for presence of ground, ground is present on pin outs for coil packs 2 and 3, but blinks out in time when cranking the engine, but ground on pin for coil 1 stays constant when cranking the engine...it does not blink out in time when cranking.
before i buy a new ECU, can anybody think of an alternative cause? it would be a shame to buy a new ecu and that not be the problem.
anybody have a used ECU they want to let go at a reasonable price?
ebay was full of ECU's for automatic transmission models, but nothing for my manual.
O'Reilly had a reman for 370.
the dealership had a reman for 1,060, or a new ECU for 1,600!!!
I shipped my malfunctioning (almost certain it's the problem) ECU to Auto Computer Exchange in Davie, FL.
Don't know a whole lot about the company, but Nelson (their toyota computer guy) says that he can fix it in a day, and have it back to me for less than $200 shipped. Worth a shot. Nice thing about getting mine repaired...I don't have to worry about getting the memory programmed.
I sure hope this turns out to be the end of this 'timing belt' job!
O'Reilly had a reman for 370.
the dealership had a reman for 1,060, or a new ECU for 1,600!!!
I shipped my malfunctioning (almost certain it's the problem) ECU to Auto Computer Exchange in Davie, FL.
Don't know a whole lot about the company, but Nelson (their toyota computer guy) says that he can fix it in a day, and have it back to me for less than $200 shipped. Worth a shot. Nice thing about getting mine repaired...I don't have to worry about getting the memory programmed.
I sure hope this turns out to be the end of this 'timing belt' job!
GX4SEVEND
New member
If your ecu was fine before the belt job, I guess I don't understand why that would be the issue after. I was told my cat was clogged and that's why I was getting a mis fire on 3 cylinders. And that was by a tech. I finally took it to a Toyota specialist and he said the timing belt was off by 4 teeth and had it fixed in less than an hour and charged me $90. Hopefully you didn't waste your money and somehow the ecu is the issue. I just don't see how though.
LittleCaesar
New member
With the good compression numbers, then timing is good to go. I have never heard of an ECU giving up the ghost at such a bad time, but stranger auto repair things have happened.
I'll be crossing my finger for ya. Let us know how it turns out.
I'll be crossing my finger for ya. Let us know how it turns out.
Auto Computer Exchange called me today. They received the computer and tested it, everything checks out. He suggested that the igniter or the wires between the igniter/ecu were the fault. As i already tested the wires, I believe the next step is to find an igniter i can borrow to see if that works. Should have the ECU back in hand early next week to continue the saga.
T4RFool
New member
you can get a used igniter from a wrecked, parted out, 4runner on ebay for about $40. I bought one a while back from ebay for around $40 dollars just to test to see if i was having an igniter issue. I doubt its your igniter but you never know. I would be more inclined to think that it was your wiring. I would double check and make sure none of the wires are frayed, clipped or cut.
Found a cheap igniter on ebay, finally got it here. Same issue still, so not the igniter. Re-tested some wiring today. No problems found. It seems possible my ECU is bad, despite the all clear given by the electronics company i shipped it to. Bought a used ECU off ebay, fingers crossed.
GX4SEVEND
New member
I'll suggest it one more time.......check the timing belt. Spend the money on that first or take it to a mechanic to look at instead of spending money on things that don't make sense.
Maybe I have no idea what I'm talking about but it seriously looks like you're wasting your money. Hope you figure it out soon.
Maybe I have no idea what I'm talking about but it seriously looks like you're wasting your money. Hope you figure it out soon.
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