Engine Trouble caused by driving without oil

[TFRnoob]

Don't try to pry it. It unscrews just like an oil filter. The mounts are the same.

Thanks for the help!

 

[TFRnoob]

What Machinists do, will depend on the Machinist.

If it were me working on an engine, I would first check for cracks in the block and heads. Then I'd check the mains and line bore them if necessary.
I'd check the deck and surface with the proper RA finish.
I'd bolt on a torque plate and bore and/or hone the cylinders as necessary.

I'd check the heads for damage, and surface them with the proper RA finish for the headgaskets I intended to use.

I'd check and replace any suspect parts in the heads. Valve stem seals automatically get replaced.

Depending on the application, I'd either perform just a valve job, or if looking for any power gains possible with a particular combination, some porting work and possibly some combustion chamber work as well. The results then verified on the flow bench.

If it's a high-performance engine, I'd match the weights of the pistons and rods exactly, and then balance the entire rotating assembly.

Of course all clearances need to be correct upon assembly.

All threads need to be chased with a tap or die before assembly, and no metal shavings left behind.

Proper torque (with a quality, accurate torque wrench) and tightening sequence is important during assembly.

Engine assembly lube should be used as necessary.

Lots of little details to building an engine properly that will run strong and be reliable. But I'm too tired to keep typing.

Experience is one of the best assets to building a good engine. If you don't have that, I'd suggest leaving it to a professional that has experience, and takes pride in their work.

I fully agree. I will take this list and ask the machinist about looking into all of it. I want to make sure that this engine will be good before I put it back into the bay.

The more I learn, the more I know I don't know. I am afraid I will skip or do something that will destroy all of my efforts. I feel like just slapping everything back together is one thing (still not easy) but when you need to follow specific torque sequences and specs, apply sealants in special ways, check for bad parts when you don't know what bad parts really look like, etc, things get complicated fast.

Hopefully I can take my time assembling the engine and research every step. Still, there are no guarantees. Thanks for the help.

 

[cashmoney]

For future record, machinists aren't mechanics. They don't and more often than not won't disassemble an engine for you. They want it brought to them completely stripped.

My personal recommendation is if you've never built an engine then you should probably start talking to some mechanics around you and have them rebuild it for you. There is a lot that goes in to assembling an engine and unless you understand how it all works and how it fits together you can end up ruining your freshly machined engine.

 

[02SE]

For future record, machinists aren't mechanics. They don't and more often than not won't disassemble an engine for you. They want it brought to them completely stripped.

This is a good point. Most Mechanics aren't Machinists, and vice versa. I've seen plenty of "Mechanics", that were really nothing more than parts changers. Then there are those that can truly do it all very well.

As with any profession, there can be vast differences in ability, among people that ostensibly hold the same Title.

My personal recommendation is if you've never built an engine then you should probably start talking to some mechanics around you and have them rebuild it for you. There is a lot that goes in to assembling an engine and unless you understand how it all works and how it fits together you can end up ruining your freshly machined engine.

Yep.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

I know I am a stubborn dumbass. I said that the machinist don't want to touch it mainly because I hadn't fully dismantled the block...at least that's why I think they didn't but I have been wrong a lot lately.

I am pretty scared about the rebuild and the very real possibility of me royally messing up and only realizing that I had after reinstalling the engine. Its not a very fun thought.

On the other hand, I am also a little sketched out about buying a junkyard engine with an unknown history, then having to take it apart and seal it, with the same possibility of failure.

The financial risk is scary. I pretty much need this to work. I do need to have a serious think about what point I call it quits. If the machinist assesses the block and heads, I am just gonna go for it. If he says its a no go, then I may abandon the entire project.

Why are you being so stubborn? You talk about tons of risks and being scared about what you are doing with people who know these trucks well and are telling you the engine is toast beyond repair. Why are you going with the most risky route?

A used engine that doesn't have damage after running out of oil is much, much less of a risk than trying to fix an engine that was completely ruined by running it without oil.

Minimize your risks, do it once, do it correctly and cry once. If you insist on continuing with this project and throwing caution into the wind heed the counsel of cashmoney, if you don't have experience do lots of research.

 

[Diezel]

For future record, machinists aren't mechanics. They don't and more often than not won't disassemble an engine for you. They want it brought to them completely stripped.

This is a fairly bad assumption. Most machinists, are fairly competent mechanics. The issues is Space and Time. They don't have the storage space, or the time *(read as pay out Your nose labor time) to do dis-assembly. Add this on top of the jobs they are already doing, and you get the jist of it.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

On the other hand, I am also a little sketched out about buying a junkyard engine with an unknown history, then having to take it apart and seal it, with the same possibility of failure.

If we were talking about a Subaru Engine, Id agree with you. But we're talking about a 5VZ-FE. I don't see why you'd even consider having to take it apart and reseal it. You just need to find one in the 150k range that turns over.

You do the regular maintenance stuff (Valve cover Gaskets, plugs, wires, PCV, clean the TB and IAC, do the Timing Belt Maintenance/Water Pump, drive belts) and drop that sucker in.

Just doing that is far less of a risk (financially and mechanically) than what you are attempting with your oil starved paper weight.

 

[cashmoney]

This is a fairly bad assumption. Most machinists, are fairly competent mechanics. The issues is Space and Time. They don't have the storage space, or the time *(read as pay out Your nose labor time) to do dis-assembly. Add this on top of the jobs they are already doing, and you get the jist of it.

Wasn't implying that they weren't, just that they don't like to break an engine down as it's not their forte.

 

[jeremyc74]

On the other hand, I am also a little sketched out about buying a junkyard engine with an unknown history, then having to take it apart and seal it, with the same possibility of failure.

The financial risk is scary. I pretty much need this to work. I do need to have a serious think about what point I call it quits. If the machinist assesses the block and heads, I am just gonna go for it. If he says its a no go, then I may abandon the entire project.

:wtf:
I'd take a junkyard engine any day over one with the KNOWN history of your engine. It was ran dry to the point where it seized, and then rebuilt by someone who has absolutely no idea what he's doing. Your chances of failure are MUCH higher rebuilding the damaged motor. Do you have any idea what kind of forces are present within the block when it seizes?!

These aren't the same as an old cast iron smallblock that you could just bore and deck and throw it back together. Aluminum doesn't react well to this kind of abuse.

 

[BrianSD_42]

It was ran dry to the point where it seized, and then rebuilt by someone who has absolutely no idea what he's doing. Your chances of failure are MUCH higher rebuilding the damaged motor

What he said x2.

I understand you are tight on funds but the best option would be to start scouring for wrecked / totalled 4Runners, buy the whole wreck for $1500 have it brought to your house then swap the engine and part out the rest.

Because of the low value of most 3rd gens these days it is very easy to total out a 4Runner with a basic "not that bad" rear or side collision in which the engine bay is barely even touched by the wreck.

You'd need to start looking for these all over the bay. When you find it rent a trailer and haul it to your house. You live in the bay area. There are easily 10 million people in the SF bay area. Trust me there is probably a wrecked 4Runner sold every week at auction or scrap yards within 90 minutes of you.

You can even sell other stuff off the wreck and make back $500 of the $1500. Others have done this.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

What he said x2.

I understand you are tight on funds but the best option would be to start scouring for wrecked / totalled 4Runners, buy the whole wreck for $1500 have it brought to your house then swap the engine and part out the rest.

Because of the low value of most 3rd gens these days it is very easy to total out a 4Runner with a basic "not that bad" rear or side collision in which the engine bay is barely even touched by the wreck.

You'd need to start looking for these all over the bay. When you find it rent a trailer and haul it to your house. You live in the bay area. There are easily 10 million people in the SF bay area. Trust me there is probably a wrecked 4Runner sold every week at auction or scrap yards within 90 minutes of you.

You can even sell other stuff off the wreck and make back $500 of the $1500. Others have done this.

This is the absolute best advice your going to get and doing anything other than what BrianSD is suggesting is just flat out stupid. I don't know about you OP but my time is worth something and your going to spend hundreds of hours more time (and money) with probably far less good results. Find that used engine and be done with it already. Jeez, I have my totaled 2000 sitting here with a good running motor in it right now. Wish I could help you some how but I'm in NJ.

 

[02SE]

:wtf:
I'd take a junkyard engine any day over one with the KNOWN history of your engine. It was ran dry to the point where it seized, and then rebuilt by someone who has absolutely no idea what he's doing. Your chances of failure are MUCH higher rebuilding the damaged motor. Do you have any idea what kind of forces are present within the block when it seizes?!

These aren't the same as an old cast iron smallblock that you could just bore and deck and throw it back together. Aluminum doesn't react well to this kind of abuse.

Just for the sake of argument: The 5VZ-FE block is cast iron, and pretty stout.

But, as you say; knowing what you're doing when rebuilding an engine, is very important to a long-lived, trouble-free engine.

 

[jeremyc74]

Just for the sake of argument: The 5VZ-FE block is cast iron, and pretty stout.

But, as you say; knowing what you're doing when rebuilding an engine, is very important to a long-lived, trouble-free engine.

I was thinking more of the heads, but you're right. I should have clarified that a little.

 

[TFRnoob]

Hi all,

My truck has 277,000 miles on the odometer.

I found two engines at the local junkyard and I need help deciding between the two.

Keep in mind, at this point I really want to keep the truck anymore as I am looking to buy a 4WD 4runner w/ manual transmission at some point.

So the options are:

A) an engine from a 1998 4runner with 90k miles for $1400

B) an engine from a 1997 4runner with 155k miles for $1100.

What do you all think?

 

[BrianSD_42]

90k miles of course.

For $300 bucks you get 65k less miles on the engine.

H3ll I'd give you $1000 cash tomorrow morning if you could magically roll back my engine wear and tear by 60k miles.

 

[T4R2014]

I'd go with the lower mile engine, it's a no brainer. With that said, I've driven a few 5VZ's with well past 200k on them that felt no less powerful than my all-original 1-owner 5VZ with 120k or my JDM 5VZ I just installed in my other 4Runner.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

Hi all,

My truck has 277,000 miles on the odometer.

I found two engines at the local junkyard and I need help deciding between the two.

Keep in mind, at this point I really want to keep the truck anymore as I am looking to buy a 4WD 4runner w/ manual transmission at some point.

So the options are:

A) an engine from a 1998 4runner with 90k miles for $1400

B) an engine from a 1997 4runner with 155k miles for $1100.

What do you all think?

Seriously? You can't decide between the 2?

 

[02SE]

Hi all,

My truck has 277,000 miles on the odometer.

I found two engines at the local junkyard and I need help deciding between the two.

Keep in mind, at this point I really want to keep the truck anymore as I am looking to buy a 4WD 4runner w/ manual transmission at some point.

So the options are:

A) an engine from a 1998 4runner with 90k miles for $1400

B) an engine from a 1997 4runner with 155k miles for $1100.

What do you all think?

If the junkyard allowed me to, I'd pull a valve cover and the oil pan on both engines, to check for excess wear and maintenance neglect.

I'd rather have a well maintained engine with 155k, than a 90k engine that has been seriously neglected.

Back in my consumer car repair days, I saw an engine with almost 50k miles, that literally had never had an oil change. Any oil left had turned to sludge, the bearings and journals were trashed. The engine was junk.

Long story short: The low mileage engine is not always the best option.

 

[cashmoney]

I'd go with the cheapest one since you are selling it soon.

 

[TFRnoob]

Just bought an engine at a different junkyard w/ about 90k miles for $1100. I thought it was a good deal so I pulled the trigger. It is being shipped now. As a side note, I got news from the machinist that both heads are cracked on the engine with 277k miles and unusable

I am trying to keep busy before the engine arrives. So I have some questions:

1) A connector that plugs into one of the pumps (power steering or A/C) was ripped off from the engine harness. The wire did not rip but was cleanly pulled from the plastic connector. How can I repair this? Is there a way to open the back part of the connector to secure the wire to it?

2) Remember when I disconnected the housing that connects to the drive shaft to the A/T fluid tank thing? What are the torque sequence and specs for that? Also, is there a gasket that I need to replace?

3) Sorry if this is really dumb but do I need a new gasket between the block and tranny (my gut feeling is yes)? I still have the sturdy looking black plastic gasket that was between the old engine and tranny.

4) The large sprocket attached to the back of the engine block. Does that need to be balanced? if so how am I going to figure that out if the new engine doesn't come with one?

Thanks everyone!