I found a great head gasket video on youtube, it helped me wrap my head around some things, check it out.:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voLBRDZL9fE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voLBRDZL9fE
Engine Trouble caused by driving without oil
- Thread starter TFRnoob
- Start date
I used the rubber mallet and some penetrating oil and it did the trick. I may have warped a very small part of the left head right by where the cover gasket goes. I hope it will not affect things too much...
I am wondering if there is a better way to secure the cam shafts other than just a wrench because that seemed to be the most difficult part for me. I think I may have prematurely taken the timing belt off. Lesson learned, next time I am going to leave it on so there is no chance of bending valves at this step.
So is there a better way to secure the camshafts?
stir_fry_boy
New member
I have used an oil filter wrench wrapped in a rag, a quick pop and the bolt comes loose. You shouldn't need any penetrating oil as the timing cover prevents dust and water from getting in.
I thought if I spun the camshafts out of timing with the crankshaft there is a possibility of the pistons bending valves.
I guess I didn't warp the head but I did depress some of the aluminum so that the top of the head (where it meets the valve cover gasket) is a little bit crushed. I don't see it being a huge problem but we will see I guess.
I got pretty much everything off! I got both heads off and I got the crank pulley off too. I have some misc. sensors that I left on to take pics of so I don't forget where they go. I also left some odds and ends on too. I will either get them off tonight or early tomorrow morning.
I guess the next step is the machine shop.
My plan was to have them clean everything and check that there aren't any cracks. I found some metal shavings in some of the oil galleys as predicted by virtually everyone here.
I have a couple of questions now:
1. Aside from cleaning, checking for cracks, and a "crank kit" what else should I have the machinist do while I have the engine there?
2. What the heck does a typical "crank kit" include?
3. Should I buy a "rebuild kit" from somewhere online?
I guess the next step is the machine shop.
My plan was to have them clean everything and check that there aren't any cracks. I found some metal shavings in some of the oil galleys as predicted by virtually everyone here.
I have a couple of questions now:
1. Aside from cleaning, checking for cracks, and a "crank kit" what else should I have the machinist do while I have the engine there?
2. What the heck does a typical "crank kit" include?
3. Should I buy a "rebuild kit" from somewhere online?
Normally you could but this is a non interference engine which means the valves won't hit the pistons.
stir_fry_boy
New member
The crank timing pulley? It should just slide off. Carefully use 2 screwdrivers to inch it off.
I tried prying it off and it just didn't budge. I finally gave up and took it to the machine shop. He said I still needed to take a couple of things off but used a special pulling tool to get the stubborn timing pulley off.
I have everything off now except the oil cooler (the weird round thing on the driver's side of the engine block. I think I need to just pry it off but not sure. If anyone has tips feel free to let me know.
I will be bringing the two heads and the block to the machine shop tomorrow to have them cleaned, checked for cracks, and assessed.
I am still confused as to what machinists do... it seems like none of them really want to touch my engine with a ten foot pole.
:llama:
stir_fry_boy
New member
I think you are wasting your time machining the heads of a ruined engine. I know it isn't cheap. The block is toast. Milling the heads won't change that.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Don't try to pry it. It unscrews just like an oil filter. The mounts are the same.
Last edited:
stir_fry_boy
New member
The crank timing pulley?
TheDurk
Elite Member
Look at my quote: the OIL COOLER.
stir_fry_boy
New member
Ok, now I get it. Initially TFR was talking about the oil PUMP. Later the cooler was discussed. Didn't see that transition.
Diezel
New member
You're gonna find out the hard way, as to why this is.
Many of us, have already said why in this thread. I'll give you some credit for throwing caution to the wind and tearing into a project. But I can't help but reiterate how bad of an idea and money pit you just created.
What Machinists do, will depend on the Machinist.
If it were me working on an engine, I would first check for cracks in the block and heads. Then I'd check the mains and line bore them if necessary.
I'd check the deck and surface with the proper RA finish.
I'd bolt on a torque plate and bore and/or hone the cylinders as necessary.
I'd check the heads for damage, and surface them with the proper RA finish for the headgaskets I intended to use.
I'd check and replace any suspect parts in the heads. Valve stem seals automatically get replaced.
Depending on the application, I'd either perform just a valve job, or if looking for any power gains possible with a particular combination, some porting work and possibly some combustion chamber work as well. The results then verified on the flow bench.
If it's a high-performance engine, I'd match the weights of the pistons and rods exactly, and then balance the entire rotating assembly.
Of course all clearances need to be correct upon assembly.
All threads need to be chased with a tap or die before assembly, and no metal shavings left behind.
Proper torque (with a quality, accurate torque wrench) and tightening sequence is important during assembly.
Engine assembly lube should be used as necessary.
Lots of little details to building an engine properly that will run strong and be reliable. But I'm too tired to keep typing.
Experience is one of the best assets to building a good engine. If you don't have that, I'd suggest leaving it to a professional that has experience, and takes pride in their work.
Diezel
New member
:cheers:
What do you think about just cleaning the block and heads while checking for cracks at first and then going from there?
I took it to the machinist already and I didn't have everything off so he suggested I finish up the work and bring it back. While I had it there he took a quick look and I told him what happened and he looked at the crank and saw it was scored and said that it wasn't that bad and that I would probably only need to grind down the crank to the first oversized bearing size.
He hasn't seen the cylinders yet and/or the pistons but I have a feeling I may not need to bore the cylinders.
So far he has quoted me ~$300 for the crank kit and $80.00/ hour for cleaning but says he can get that done pretty quickly.
I know I am a stubborn dumbass. I said that the machinist don't want to touch it mainly because I hadn't fully dismantled the block...at least that's why I think they didn't but I have been wrong a lot lately.
I am pretty scared about the rebuild and the very real possibility of me royally messing up and only realizing that I had after reinstalling the engine. Its not a very fun thought.
On the other hand, I am also a little sketched out about buying a junkyard engine with an unknown history, then having to take it apart and seal it, with the same possibility of failure.
The financial risk is scary. I pretty much need this to work. I do need to have a serious think about what point I call it quits. If the machinist assesses the block and heads, I am just gonna go for it. If he says its a no go, then I may abandon the entire project.
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