Engine Trouble caused by driving without oil
- Thread starter TFRnoob
- Start date
Alright! today is the big day! It all starts now. I will be trying to replace some tubing that looks damaged around the throttle body area, attaching the wiring harness, dragging the engine across my back yard (really not fun at all) then going to pick up the engine hoist.
This is going to be one heck of a day.
Hopefully :driving: in no time!
This is going to be one heck of a day.
Hopefully :driving: in no time!
As I am installing the intake gaskets I do not really like the fit. I scraped all excess gasket and cleaned with intake cleaner and a clean rag. I made sure no rage lint was left behind. The bottom of the gaskets to go above the line of the intake ports. I am really not sure about this!
Hmm, I will compare with the old gaskets. Maybe this is a 97-98 difference? Idk
Hmm, I will compare with the old gaskets. Maybe this is a 97-98 difference? Idk
I am just forging ahead. If the intake gaskets are a problem at least it's easy to get to.
I got the engine harness on without a problem. I seriously thought I might not be able to figure out where all of the connections go but it was pretty straight forward.
Everything is on, I dragged the engine across my uneven grass backyard for the third (and hopefully final time) and am about to pick up the engine hoist.
I am tired but I want to get this done so I can surf some tasty waves and drink some cold brews.
QUESTION:
Should I use Loctite for the flex plate? I know its strongly recommended for flywheels but flex plates are pretty light and get torqued down pretty tight.
Also, I hope my torque wrench is working properly. When torquing the intake and throttle body at 13 ft lbs it seemed almost too easy. I was really tempted to snug it all up a little more.
I got the engine harness on without a problem. I seriously thought I might not be able to figure out where all of the connections go but it was pretty straight forward.
Everything is on, I dragged the engine across my uneven grass backyard for the third (and hopefully final time) and am about to pick up the engine hoist.
I am tired but I want to get this done so I can surf some tasty waves and drink some cold brews.
QUESTION:
Should I use Loctite for the flex plate? I know its strongly recommended for flywheels but flex plates are pretty light and get torqued down pretty tight.
Also, I hope my torque wrench is working properly. When torquing the intake and throttle body at 13 ft lbs it seemed almost too easy. I was really tempted to snug it all up a little more.
don't stop now
absolutely. proceed. do whatever seems right to you and keep moving. If I had not taken this advice, then I would not have rebuilt the engine on a 1972 Datsun 1200 Sedan before driving it around the country camping for a summer, built and flown an ultra-light airplane, built an auto cross car out of 3 1970 Datsun roadsters, rebuilt a 1954 32 foot Danish Spidsgatter longleaf pine on steam-bent white oak frame sailboat, or rebuilt a 1981 29 foot Capital Yachts Gulf 29 sailboat. I also would not have made a lot of other stuff along the way - bicycles, computers, craftsmen-movement furniture, geospatial data and applications, you get the picture.
we never do it all right, but we do it. keep after it. you're doing better than most.
absolutely. proceed. do whatever seems right to you and keep moving. If I had not taken this advice, then I would not have rebuilt the engine on a 1972 Datsun 1200 Sedan before driving it around the country camping for a summer, built and flown an ultra-light airplane, built an auto cross car out of 3 1970 Datsun roadsters, rebuilt a 1954 32 foot Danish Spidsgatter longleaf pine on steam-bent white oak frame sailboat, or rebuilt a 1981 29 foot Capital Yachts Gulf 29 sailboat. I also would not have made a lot of other stuff along the way - bicycles, computers, craftsmen-movement furniture, geospatial data and applications, you get the picture.
we never do it all right, but we do it. keep after it. you're doing better than most.
I am having a really difficult time getting the engine back in by myself. I think if I can get the transmission attached that would be a huge help.
What is the typical order for engine installation?
Is the key getting the engine back on the mounts first or attaching it to the transmission first?
Thanks in advance all.
What is the typical order for engine installation?
Is the key getting the engine back on the mounts first or attaching it to the transmission first?
Thanks in advance all.
Nice, thanks! Are there any tricks to this. I have been trying to get everything aligned and its not simple. I have the engine suspended and I was planning on moving the transmission up to the engine and loosely bolting on by hand.
Is there a better way. I think this would be a ton easier with another person. Waves are good so nobody is around. haha
Thanks for the advice. Posting on CL now.
Still unsuccessful guiding the engine and the transmission back together. It is one of the more difficult things I have done during this project.
I suppose I will just keep at it. I am welcoming any suggestions that might make this process easier.
Still unsuccessful guiding the engine and the transmission back together. It is one of the more difficult things I have done during this project.
I suppose I will just keep at it. I am welcoming any suggestions that might make this process easier.
Transmission jack or a second engine hoist. Make sure the torque converter is fully seated before putting the transmission together. Twist it while you put it on the shaft and you should feel it click and get harder to spin. Make sure you drain it and fill it with a quart of new fluid before installing it. Make sure the flex plate is torqued properly to the crank shaft. Should be fairly simple from there. Definitely easier than stabbing a standard transmission.
Is it possible to get the exhaust flange that goes above the transmission into position if I already have the engine bolted into the transmission and the engine secured to the front mounts?
It took me all day to get the transmission hooked up and now I am having a tough time getting the exhaust flange into position!
ray: that its possible.
It took me all day to get the transmission hooked up and now I am having a tough time getting the exhaust flange into position!
ray: that its possible.Hahaha I broke my arm but I got it in. I made sure to torque the transmission to the block first though. I torqued to 61 ft lbs accidentally instead of the spec of 53 ft lbs... None of the bolts snapped so I feel okay about it. Do you think this could eventually be a serious problem? The only thing I am a little worried about is heat expansion and perhaps breaking the bolts then...
Anyway, I torqued the flex plat to the torque converter to 30 ft lbs and just kept on working. I also forgot to drain and replace the fluid in the torque converter. maybe a cup or two leaked out from the time I took it out of the bell housing and reinstalled it. Is this catastrophic?
Right now, I have 90% everything back together and I don't think I will have to crawl on the dirt under the truck again for a while (at least for any extended amount of time) until I try to start her up. All that is left is to put the air filter stuff in, attach the top part of the engine harness
I bought red 50/50 coolant, plenty of oil, and a gallon of ATF fluid.
Where do I fill the automatic transmission fluid? I have a feeling there is an fill plug somewhere underneath the truck. Idk though.
8ftlbs isn't going to make a difference.
Not draining the converter first isn't a disastrous thing either. Just means you'll need to do a full transmission flush to get nothing but new fluid in.
You fill the transmission through the dipstick tube on the passenger side. Fill it up to the full marks start the engine, shift in to each gear for about 3-5 seconds and then put the transmission in neutral (make sure the parking brake is on!) and let everything warm up and then check it again and top it off as necessary until the fluid quits dropping below full.
Not draining the converter first isn't a disastrous thing either. Just means you'll need to do a full transmission flush to get nothing but new fluid in.
You fill the transmission through the dipstick tube on the passenger side. Fill it up to the full marks start the engine, shift in to each gear for about 3-5 seconds and then put the transmission in neutral (make sure the parking brake is on!) and let everything warm up and then check it again and top it off as necessary until the fluid quits dropping below full.
I think I have all of the hoses in the right place miraculously. I mainly relied on the hoses maintaining their shape and leaving one side of the hose installed into one of the two components it connected.
I am working on the fan belts later today and going to get the radiator installed as well as connect the engine harness to the ECU, battery etc.
I have been using dielectric grease on all engine harness connections as well as the spark plugs and boots. I have used aluminum anti seize on all of the bolts etc. that were really rusted and or seized when I was removing the engine.
I know I have the spark plug wires for cylinder 1,3, and 5 in the correct spots as the wires were labeled. I am not sure if I have the 2, 4, and 6 wires correct though... Am I correct to assume that the wire that goes from cylinder 1 should connect to cylinder 2 and 3 should go to 4 and 5 should go to 6?
I have been saying this for a couple of days now but I think today is the big day. I am thinking about posting a quick video documenting the moment of truth. I assume, just like when you do a head gasket job, the motor may run rough for a little while as it hasn't been ran for a long time and its been dry of motor oil for a while etc... is this right?
I am working on the fan belts later today and going to get the radiator installed as well as connect the engine harness to the ECU, battery etc.
I have been using dielectric grease on all engine harness connections as well as the spark plugs and boots. I have used aluminum anti seize on all of the bolts etc. that were really rusted and or seized when I was removing the engine.
I know I have the spark plug wires for cylinder 1,3, and 5 in the correct spots as the wires were labeled. I am not sure if I have the 2, 4, and 6 wires correct though... Am I correct to assume that the wire that goes from cylinder 1 should connect to cylinder 2 and 3 should go to 4 and 5 should go to 6?
I have been saying this for a couple of days now but I think today is the big day. I am thinking about posting a quick video documenting the moment of truth. I assume, just like when you do a head gasket job, the motor may run rough for a little while as it hasn't been ran for a long time and its been dry of motor oil for a while etc... is this right?
TheDurk
Elite Member
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