Epic Fail

What’s weird is the the road I was traveling was as flat as could be. No bumps. No dips. It just snapped.

The flat bed driver said in his many years of service (and he was old) he had never seen one single Toyota fail in this manner. Leave it to me...

A couple of months ago there was a rash of these getting broken. Then a bunch of guys decided to have some fun and started making a meme about it. Not really funny when it happens to you though. You'll be back up and running in no time. I'm sure you'll do both sides at the same time.

It appears high mileage or rough service will wear these ball joints out and break with little to no warning sometimes like yours did. The check for wear is kinda vague too. The slightest movement in those ball joints means it's time to replace them.

Like others said; it's a weak point in T4R's.
 
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Yes...replacing everything on both sides. I cant risk going down the interstate at higher speeds with my wife or kids in the truck and the other side failing.
 
Glad you're not hurt, Patrick.



Correct! Worst and most dangerous thing Toyota has done with the 4Runner, I think.

Patrick,
There's a thread about it. My explanation why YOUR generation is within that thread here:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3175578-post169.html

Wouldn't this design flaw be made worst when Folks get the big tires and rims on the rigs as the stresses would be greater on the ball joints. Then factory tire sizes and rims?
 
Sway Bar Bushings

Doubt these were doing much of anything...
349100-D4-0159-4-CB2-8-A01-7-BA68-D404-C4-F.jpg


Both sway bar end links were limp as a wet noodles.
 
Torque Specs

So I don’t have a shop manual for this vehicle. Can you guys point me to a document that prescribes all the values for everything on the front suspension?
 
So I don’t have a shop manual for this vehicle. Can you guys point me to a document that prescribes all the values for everything on the front suspension?

I just did the UCa, LCA, LBJ, steering rack, sway-bar, etc... these are from my notes:

• Cam Adjuster Bolts - 96 ft-lbf
• UBJ torque 80 ft lb
• UCA torque 87 ft lb
• 3 upper shuck nuts torque 47 ftl lb
• Lower Shock Bolt - 101 ft-lbf
• Outer Tie Rod Castle Nut - 67 ft-lbf
• swaybar bushing bracket 19 ft lb
• swaybar end links - 14 ft lb
• ball joint bolts 59 ft lb ~ blue locktite
• Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut - 105 ft-lbf
• Wheel Lug Nuts - 85 ft-lbf
• For Steering Rack:
• Driver side long bolt that goes through cross member - 141 ft-lbf
• Middle Perpendicular Bolt - 123 ft-lbf
• Passenger Side Bracket Bolt and Nut - 123 ft-lbf


But man, there are links to the oem service manual all over, find one and download it to your phone so you Always have it on you. Has saved me too many times to count with different vehicles, and that's only in the past decade.
 
If your CV axles have 300K on them, I would replace them.. Suspension and Sway bar link stabilizer would be if they are bad only. How are the bushings holding up on the upper and and control arms holding up? No play in them?
 
With that many miles I would replace every bushing, joint, and shocks. Makes no sense to only replace what is worn because the rest is likely to wear out soon with the miles you have and you end up tearing into it again...and again....and paying for a second or even third alignment.
 
In case you were still wondering, those are OEM Tokico black struts, so most likely the same ones from when the vehicle was manufactured. If you want a smooth ride put the same ones back in. They ride real nice when new with brand new OEM coils.
 
Wheel Cylinder???

I couldn’t tell where whatever this is, is coming from. I do know this wheel was not participating in the stopping activities.

8-C14-FE01-6-F88-4638-8-CF5-5-BDDD435-E77-B.jpg


52-AB9270-C579-47-A2-90-EF-952-EE346-AC28.jpg


3-AA163-B0-D308-4-E83-8-A1-A-A052-FDE4-FC12.jpg
 
That last one (gooey rear brakes) is a leaking rear axle seal. Usually the cause is a clogged, for a long time, axle breather valve that allows the axle to pressurize and force fluid into the brake drums.

At least that's what I've gathered from a few brief searches, there's better info out there (and Timmy has a video on fixing this issue, needs specialized tools)
 
That last one (gooey rear brakes) is a leaking rear axle seal. Usually the cause is a clogged, for a long time, axle breather valve that allows the axle to pressurize and force fluid into the brake drums.

At least that's what I've gathered from a few brief searches, there's better info out there (and Timmy has a video on fixing this issue, needs specialized tools)

Thank you. It didn't appear to be coming from the wheel cylinder. However, it also didn't smell like rear differential fluid, and it was thin like brake fluid.

Thoughts...Or are you sticking with your original prognosis?
 

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