Exhaust repair Advice

[SunnyMcBlock]

94 22re 5speed. I have a Exhaust leak. I can tell because it has that distinctive Whisky Tango rattling sound then I accelerate. So I took it to the 2 most respected muffler shops in Town and got some slightly conflicting assessments. I am putting it out there for consideration from the Forum.

First shop says R & R and resurface exhaust manifold. Weld up busted/rusted brackets all the way down the line and replace the muffler. $361.51

Second shop says R & R and resurface exhaust manifold. Weld up busted/rusted brackets all the way down. $250.00 with the caveat that "Once we get in there I can almost guarantee we will find more. So treat this like a base number."

The interesting thing is that while the first shop wanted to replace my muffler, the second shop told me that it has 2 1/4" pipe and a high-flow performance muffler already on it and that the "total system is in great shape."

A little searching on the web yields aftermarket replacement manifolds with seal kits in the $70-$120 range.

So should I just order up an manifold and tackle this in my driveway? Can't be that tough... Or should I pony up the money and let one of these shops have at it?

Also here are some pics I snapped from under the rig. Any input out there from you gurus on this muffler and system? Is this stock? Ok shape? Need Replaced?


Any input or advise is appreciated.

 

[junkyardbiker]

Deff not stock muffler, and no way to tell on the outside if its any good inside. Depending on your states laws, chop that cataylic, throw a walker offroad muffler under it, do what you gotta do for the rest. as for swapping the manifold, go get some penetrating oil called Kroil, start soaking each little bolt, nut, and joint with it. If you can use an adjustable impact gun on the lowest setting first. Loosen each one until all loose, then remove completly. Take it to be sandblasted on the outside and check it out. If its good spray it with some hi-temp and put it all back together with hi-temp copper antiseize. And your exhaust shop prices are throught the roof! I had a shop cut my cat, put in a new muffler with all new pipe all the way back for 25 bucks. Brought in the muffler myself, and they even threw on a free chrome exhaust tip I scrounged out of their scrap bin!

 

[junkyardbiker]

And BTW congrats on having a rare 2nd gen with the 22RE and a manual trans!

 

[airdreams1]

get a buddy to hold a large rag over the end wile the motor is running (this causes more back pressure.) & you will hear exactly where the leak is. (dont have to try to stop all the exhaust from the tailpipe) then you should have an idea what needs replaced. may just be a doughnut or 2.

 

[SunnyMcBlock]

Thanks for the tips. I'm going to tackle this on my own i think. Save a bunch of money and learn a thing or 2. I'll post how it goes.

 

[92-SR5]

And BTW congrats on having a rare 2nd gen with the 22RE and a manual trans!

That's the only way to go!

 

[jgilk1]

$361 for what? either fix the manifold you got, replace it with an actuall header, a section with an o2 bung. $30 muffler from the parts store and exit out in front of rear wheel...

i think for a full exhaust on my chevy luv i paid $300 (the manifold its self was $150 of that) some drunk guy hit my truck and shoved it in to the curb and insted of bending the exhaust it broke the header pipe and manifold

 

[jgilk1]

this is what i cam up with for the exhaust on my 4runner (the previous owner cut the exhaust off about 4" behind the O2 sensor... and slapped a glass pack on with a mud job repaired muffler that was nearly shot gunned... going back to Washington state can't really be running to aggressive of a muffler due to there nothing is set in stone exhaust modification laws..... )

muffler + 2 clamps + the 1 3/4"id to 1 7/8" od adpter came out to $38 that looks like less then $100 exhaust... hope soon (funds permitting) to go with an fipk spectra pod filter to help with the move we will see though

2 1/4" cherry bomb on the header back pipe...


they burned the fiberglass out and after some fun in a deserted dirt lot i managed to dis lodge the baffle in it

so today i figured i would "fix" that issue now where i live here in new mexico and where i will be living in Washington DO NOT REQUIRE emissions so a cat really isn't required that and even a universal 2" od cat is $70 i don't feel like spending

so here is what i did... 1 3/4" id adapter with muffler clamp, in to 1 7/8" od in to a 2" glass pack, followed up to a sweeping "90* bend" and exits down


pictures are bad i know ill get better ones when it is light out tomorrow (if you require a cat or a different muffler substitute them)

the coupling between the header back pipe and the glass pack (i have 38 miles on it so far trying to find a tap and a drill bit go figure)



the previous owner used this bent wire as an exhaust hanger it worked for the over 1400 miles i had put on the car in the last month figured i would continue using it the wire is bent just such that it applies slight upward pressure that the wire doesn's actually move

 

[laxbro19]

Just like my exhaust except I have a 3.slo and I'm running 2.5" pipe and a thrush welded muffler. I use a clothes hanger to support my muffler.

 

[SunnyMcBlock]

Update

Last night I decided to tackle this project and see if I could find the leaks on my own. I've heard that often times the studs, nuts or bolts on these can seize so honestly I wasn't expecting to get far... just wanted to dig into it. This is what I found.

The nuts were the opposite of seized. Without any penetrating oil at all at least half of them were little more than finger tight. One stud/nut combo was missing all together. 3 of the studs were replaced with mismatched bolts, 1 of which was cross threaded(that was really the only tough one to get out).

Id say the gaskets are shot and the only place I found soot was around the gasket. So I'm thinking a new gasket and set of hardware will probably solve all my troubles...

The pics...
What is this that I have highlighted with Red?


This is where the bolt that was cross threaded was. Not too bad Threads are in ok shape.


This is where the stud was completely missing and where the worst leak is i believe.


Here you can see where the gasket is falling apart.




The biggest question I have is how worried do i have to be about cleaning out the exhaust ports before i put it all back together? Should I get a shop-vac and scrub and vacuum whatever stuff I can out of there or just not worry about it?

 

[SunnyMcBlock]

Update Update

I ordered some fancy crush-able gasket off Amazon expecting all my worries to vanish in the wind. It showed up in a crushed box and was bent and broke.



After I got to looking at it I wasn't convinced it would even fit my application. The holes for the exhaust port looked too small and misshaped. Returned it and picked up a OEM gasket from Shucks for $10 less... the great grand interweb doesn't always offer the best solutions.

Purty New Gasket


I bought a generic stud kit while i was at shucks and replaced the stud and nut that was missing. these new nuts are not auto locking so I figure I'll have to re-torque them a few times. So far tho my $360 exhaust leak seems to be fixed for under $40. Rig finally sounds good. We will see if its a lasting solution.

 

[77'911]

Nice work. You might consider replacing the motor mounts at a minmum while in there. That type of manifold issue along with the cracked/broken welds on the brackets are pretty indicative of the drive train moving around too much. Best of luck with it.
regards