Extreme 3rd Gen Build! Insane!

[NotKewl]

I love it when I come home and find goodies waiting for me! Got more parts this week. Beadlock kit (need to weld them up myself). New fuel cell. Suspension parts from Barnes 4WD, and 5 new 40x13.5-R17 ProComp Xtreme MT2s. Check out how much they dwarf the old tires and those are 33's.

Going to look awesome on this rig!

Here's the new fuel cell. It needs to be modified to work with fuel injection, which means adding a return line fitting (easy mod) and of course adding a fuel level sending unit. This is a Jazz Products racing fuel cell with flapper valve to prevent fuel spilling when I inevitably end up on my lid.

I also managed to start on the axles this weekend. Got them all cleaned up with engine degreaser and the pressure washer first. That white rack is home built. I made it specifically for this project to work on the axles without being on the ground. :banana:

After they dried I started tearing down the 14 Bolt. For such a beefy axle, they are super simple in design and very easy to work on. The GM 14 Bolt has to be my all-time favorite axle.

Here, the axle shafts slide right out since it is a full floating axle. Just means the axle shafts don't support the weight of the vehicle like Toyota (Ford 9", et al.) axles do. The axle tubes and hubs support the weight of the vehicle and the axle floats in the tube making these things super tough. Easy to change axle shaft if (and I do mean IF) you manage to break one.

Once the drums come off (these things weigh 60 lbs EACH!), getting the drum brakes off is easy. Then you have to get the studs off to separate the drum and the hub. I'm installing disk brakes.

The studs removed.

Just the hub.

Getting the drum off, not so easy. The right side was fine, just loosened up the shoes and it came off with a few hits of the hammer. The left side, however, took some persuading with the plasma cutter. The shoes were stuck open and they couldn't be backed off, so I resorted to violence. :flamethrwoer2:

Managed to get it off after busting up the insides. If you plan to reuse the drum brakes (yeah right, who would), I wouldn't take this approach.

Once the hubs were removed, I started cutting off all the brake lines, shock mounts, spring perches, etc. I need a clean axle to custom make my suspension.

And before calling it a night, I decided to make some more progress on the front tear down and removed the IFS steering rack.

 

[NotKewl]

Project Chimera

So, the name for this project has been officially dubbed "Chimera," after the Greek mythological creature, a hybrid creature made from several different animals. A befitting name for this build since the parts are from several different makes. Toyota (the base), Ford (the front end, front leafs, and transfer case), and Chevy (the range box, rear leafs, and rear end).

Never thought I'd own a hybrid LOL. This is one "hybrid" I will gladly own. :becky:

My kids were asked to come up with a name for the actual vehicle... After looking at the logo/symbol, the appropriately ironic "Fluffy" was chosen.

 

[downpour11]

Well chopping that rear makes room for that fuel cell LOL.

I'm debating on keeping my 3link rear on my rebuild as a friend of mine just finished his 3rd gen on 44's and 4linked the rear, but he couldn't push his rear axle any farther back than my 9" is right now (due to his uppers hitting that F150 tank he threw in).

That white 4runner on 54's all over the internet, one of my good friends built and he ended up raising the rear cargo floor 6" to accommodate that link setup (even though it's basically a tube chassis, the tub posed problems).

So trying to keep it low with a 4link rear is a PITA haha. Looking for ideas, since I'm sick of that stock tank hanging so low, but I need to keep California happy.

Post up some more pics when you get that 203/205 in and your sticks, would like some ideas.

Lookin' good!

 

[NotKewl]

Well chopping that rear makes room for that fuel cell LOL.

I'm debating on keeping my 3link rear on my rebuild as a friend of mine just finished his 3rd gen on 44's and 4linked the rear, but he couldn't push his rear axle any farther back than my 9" is right now (due to his uppers hitting that F150 tank he threw in).

That white 4runner on 54's all over the internet, one of my good friends built and he ended up raising the rear cargo floor 6" to accommodate that link setup (even though it's basically a tube chassis, the tub posed problems).

So trying to keep it low with a 4link rear is a PITA haha. Looking for ideas, since I'm sick of that stock tank hanging so low, but I need to keep California happy.

Post up some more pics when you get that 203/205 in and your sticks, would like some ideas.

Lookin' good!

I did some measuring and calculations on 4-link rear and decided that my budget couldn't take it more so than the frame / tank. :redbrick:

Yup, you need that stock tank if you want it street legal. We have the issue here as well. This one will be strictly off-road, so I can get away with a racing fuel cell and more clearance under the cab. Will need the room for the transfer case setup anyway. This is going to take some fabricating to get installed correctly.

There is no kit to mount a 203/205 doubler to a stock A340F transmission. Thus I will make my own bracket and stubshaft I need for the transmission and run the 203/205 as a divorced unit. Just like Ford did in the 70's and like the Suzuki Samurai. My plan thus far is to take apart the stock transfer case and use the input gear (which is designed to mate with the 23 spline A340F short output shaft) to custom make a yoke. Will take some math and a jig, but it's doable.

 

[pdsutton]

Everything I have planned for my 4runner now feels pure amateur. Amazing stuff going on in this build! Thanks for sharing, I'm enjoying the show!

 

[downpour11]

I did some measuring and calculations on 4-link rear and decided that my budget couldn't take it more so than the frame / tank. :redbrick:

Yup, you need that stock tank if you want it street legal. We have the issue here as well. This one will be strictly off-road, so I can get away with a racing fuel cell and more clearance under the cab. Will need the room for the transfer case setup anyway. This is going to take some fabricating to get installed correctly.

There is no kit to mount a 203/205 doubler to a stock A340F transmission. Thus I will make my own bracket and stubshaft I need for the transmission and run the 203/205 as a divorced unit. Just like Ford did in the 70's and like the Suzuki Samurai. My plan thus far is to take apart the stock transfer case and use the input gear (which is designed to mate with the 23 spline A340F short output shaft) to custom make a yoke. Will take some math and a jig, but it's doable.

Very cool - yeah I have a feeling this tank has to go. I can get it to smog fine, but will need someone with some puppies to distract the smog employee to pass visual lol

Good thing I'm due for smog right now so I can smog it before we chop it up again :cheers:

I'm going to do a Blackbox to 205 - friend of mine is going to make me an adapter for the A340F. Funny because the AW4 tranny is the same as ours, but different housing...but there's an adapter for that! lol

 

[NotKewl]

Funny because the AW4 tranny is the same as ours, but different housing...but there's an adapter for that! lol

Ha! yup, Advanced Adapters makes an adapter plate and stub shaft for the Atlas 2/4 speed transfer case to mount to the A340F http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/50-5710--toyota-tacoma-tranmission-to-atlas-transfer-case-adapter-kit-23-spline/ (for Tacomas), but unfortunately, that won't work for the NP203/205 in my case.... I called and asked the pros at Advanced Adapters. I also called http://offroaddesign.com/ to discuss my options, but unfortunately, they pointed me to Advanced Adapters or said I would have to custom fab something, which I'm cool with since I have the tools and skills to do so. Not everyone does, so hopefully I can add some good info in this thread to help others who may want to mount a NP203/205 to this tranny (which in my opinion is as good or better than Atas, of course mostly due to cost. :first.

 

[NotKewl]

Well, I managed to get a little more done on project Chimera this evening / night...zzzzzz (tired)... btw this takes a very patient wife, or being single to accomplish.

It's amazing how well this IFS is rusted onto the frame!!!! Grrrr :mad2: That's what I get for buying a Pensylvania vehicle I guess. :flipoff:
The darn sleeves are frozen to the rubber grommets for the lower control arms and I got frustrated trying to punch them through... so START CUTTING! :boxer:

So when you go through multiple sawzall blades, it's time to resort to the plasma cutter for the ultimate VIOLENT cutting. :dancin:

 

[Sean K.]

Might try Milwaukee Torch or Diablo sawzall blades....they last a LOT longer than the cheaper brands. The Torches tend to cut faster b/c they are thinner, but the Diablos are great for when you need a stronger blade (they seem to be about .090-.120" thick).

 

[Chuckles89]

x2 on the Diablo blades

 

[NotKewl]

Might try Milwaukee Torch or Diablo sawzall blades....they last a LOT longer than the cheaper brands. The Torches tend to cut faster b/c they are thinner, but the Diablos are great for when you need a stronger blade (they seem to be about .090-.120" thick).

Thanks for the tip! I'll go grab some.

 

[NotKewl]

Very cool - yeah I have a feeling this tank has to go. I can get it to smog fine, but will need someone with some puppies to distract the smog employee to pass visual lol

Good thing I'm due for smog right now so I can smog it before we chop it up again :cheers:

I'm going to do a Blackbox to 205 - friend of mine is going to make me an adapter for the A340F. Funny because the AW4 tranny is the same as ours, but different housing...but there's an adapter for that! lol

Blackbox is awesome! A buddy of mine is running one in his Jeep. Just a bit pricey for me. The 203 was more in my budget. If I went with a BB or an Atlas, I'd have a bad a$$ transfer case and not much else. :boom:

 

[NotKewl]

Might try Milwaukee Torch or Diablo sawzall blades....they last a LOT longer than the cheaper brands. The Torches tend to cut faster b/c they are thinner, but the Diablos are great for when you need a stronger blade (they seem to be about .090-.120" thick).

Ok big kudos! Got some Diablo blades today.... like butta! OMG huge difference. Thanks for the tip.

 

[NotKewl]

Well now that my last few business trips for this year (NYC and San Francisco) are over, and same for Halloween and Thanksgiving (we went to Florida, bleh...too hot), I managed to get some more done. Unfortunately, I am still waiting on a few parts to show up this week so I can finish the rear axle gear setup this weekend.

What I did get done over the last two weekends was finish cleaning up the axle tubes on the 14 bolt rear axle, install the disk brakes on the 14 bolt and tear down the center section to change the gears. The hold up is the ordering of the correct pinion bearings (two different sizes) to press on the new pinion.

I also started welding up the beadlocks onto the rims. beadlocks are so very labor intensive.

Mounting the new brakes and testing the clearance with the rim on.

Installed new rotors and metric (M14x1.5) wheel studs pressed in that hold rotors on the hubs.

Here's the 14 Bolt all cleaned up ready for new gears.

The new gears right out of the box. 4.10:1 to match the Dana 60 front gears that are already in.

Have I mentioned how much I LOVE the 14 Bolt Axle! So easy to set up. Much like the Ford 9 Inch and Toyota Axles it has side adjusters to align the teeth. But it goes a few steps further and separates the pinion from the housing (Ford 9" does too) and has an extra sturdy pinion support bearing that prevents ring deflection under heavy loads.

 

[Chuckles89]

Looks good! I was starting to wonder where you went :wave:

 

[NotKewl]

Looks good! I was starting to wonder where you went :wave:

Life always seems to get in the way of fun projects. :redbrick:

 

[NotKewl]

Dana 60 - Hydro Assist or Full Hydro?

Well, I'm at the point where I'm about ready to start mocking up the suspension with the axles under the rig. The 14 bolt will be complete this weekend and with any luck, I'll have the Dana 60 done this weekend too.

Now my next BIG decision is: do I keep the little Toyota steering box (1987 IFS Unit), drill and tap it for a hydro assist ram (which will be needed with 40" tires), and run traditional drag link setup?

::: OR :::

Do I go FULL HYDRO?

Full hydro kinda scares me because I've never set one up before, nor have I ever driven anything with full hydraulic steering to know what it is like to drive. Technically this rig is strictly for off-highway use at very slow speeds and will not be raced. However, it will be registered and insured should it ever be needed to briefly be driven on a public road (say between trails, or to stores while camping on the trail, etc.)

If I keep the stock drag link/pitman arm setup I might not be able to extend my front axle out where I want it. Full hydro I won't need a drag link so potentially more clearance and articulation and I can put the axle where I want it, but would it be safe to drive on the road with no mechanical linkage to the steering wheel?

Any opinions? Anyone with experience with full hydro?

 

[JayRolla]

Life always seems to get in the way of fun projects. :redbrick:

Life/Wife's sure do get in the way!! I have a project car that's been sitting for 2 years. Still really no progress. Lol.

May I ask why you went with 4:10 gearing?

 

[NotKewl]

May I ask why you went with 4:10 gearing?

Laziness and cheapness honestly. The Dana 60 had 4:10 gears from the factory and to change them and the 14 bolt to anything higher requires that I change the carriers in both axles plus bearings, shims, etc. The total cost was upward of $1800 + to do both axles. By leaving the Dana at 4:10 and going cheap with the 14 bolt to just 4:10 gears (and I'm not changing the carrier bearings at all, which thankfully they look new already) I don't have to change the carrier; meaning I can do the one gear change for about $300 vs 2 for $1,800+.

My plan is that I will be cheap now (to spend my money on hydro assist, 3 link setup, etc.) and come back later (when my wife is less freaked out :bash: about the cost of this project) and upgrade both axles to 5.38:1.

 

[JayRolla]

Laziness and cheapness honestly. The Dana 60 had 4:10 gears from the factory and to change them and the 14 bolt to anything higher requires that I change the carriers in both axles plus bearings, shims, etc. The total cost was upward of $1800 + to do both axles. By leaving the Dana at 4:10 and going cheap with the 14 bolt to just 4:10 gears (and I'm not changing the carrier bearings at all, which thankfully they look new already) I don't have to change the carrier; meaning I can do the one gear change for about $300 vs 2 for $1,800+.

My plan is that I will be cheap now (to spend my money on hydro assist, 3 link setup, etc.) and come back later (when my wife is less freaked out :bash: about the cost of this project) and upgrade both axles to 5.38:1.

I completely understand the saving money part. Its the only reason I dont have the best of the best on my rig. Its all about budget friendly parts that perform well and still work in most situations. Keeps the wife happy.

My drag car project is stalled due to the wife. When I got it from my brother it already has most parts needed. Just needs a bigger turbo. Wife asked price of the turbo I told her $1700 she flipped a lid. Since then I have pulled some parts off and cleaned it up. Money is always a factor when you have a wife!!