Factory (style) Fog Light Switch- Fits knock-out!

barryhiram

New member
Installed a Baja Design 20” Stealth LED light bar in the front lower grille a couple of months ago, but didn’t like the switch furnished. My goal has always been to keep mods low key, out of sight, or as stealth as possible (except for the Devil Horn on Fire:biggrin1:). So the hunt was on for a factory style switch that would replace my two blank spots in dash. After conducting multiple searches both here and online for several months, two things became apparent. Toyota doesn’t make a fog light switch (that we can get in the US) that fits. I tried the FJ switch, but it didn’t fit without having to cut dash which I didn’t want to do, my search was going to be a difficult. Wasn’t really iterested in OTRATTW switches which I’m sure are awesome, like I said, want that stock look.

Second, search here revealed several companies sold a factory style switch that would fit, but they were located in Australia. I sent several emails, but either they were out of stock (would contact when in-stock, never heard back) or would not ship to USA. I even tried Ebay, same thing. Even if I could source, shipping would cost as much as two switches…..ouch. Plus most were out of stock anyways…………. Newpro-Tech

Well I pretty much gave up, was about to drill a hole in one of the blanks to mount that fugly switch, when low and behold I came across Slee Offroad of Golden, CO (Slee - Electrical Switches). They listed Part #STF1056 which looked like it would fit, I sent a quick email inquiring, reply from Christo within 10 minutes, bingo it fits! Ordered two Friday evening, shipped USPS ($6.00) Monday as promised, received Thursday. Thank you Slee Offroad!!!!!

Quality of switch is pretty good, definetly not a Toyota switch, but it also doesn’t cost as much. You must use a relay to trigger lights as switch is only rated for 3 amps. Wired/installed last weekend, worked like a charm! Left switch operates front LED light bar, I also ran a wire from relay trigger to head light high beam (+) wire for instant on when turning on high beams (headlight wars………..I win). Ha-ha-ha just kidding before everyone gets their panties in a bunch. Right hand switch operates reverse lights (wired to battery feed) when extra light is needed while hooking up trailer or loading at night.

Big thanks to all of you who have posted build threads, spent mucho hours coming up with all these great ideas, and were willing to share with everyone, this site rocks!!!!!!! THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!

Below are pictures of switch with harness, wiring diagram pdf (not include with switch), and switches installed. For dash light interface, my truck had an extra white female plug (think eight wires) which was not used behind dash, green wire is dash light positive, gray is ground. Switches are dimmable with dash light control. Works like a charm, and love how the dash looks!

White (shown in gray) – Switch (+) Output to Aux light relay
Blue – Ground
Green – Switched Input (+) 3A (ignition or battery feed)
Black – Illumination (Dash lights, positive)
Red or Yellow – Not used
 

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Thanks Titanpat57

Debating changing back light to orange to match.............or is that going too far......ha-ha-ha
 
Nice switches! Same sentiments..

While I get a kick out of the zombie light switch guys (OTRATTW), not a big fan of rocker switches, I would prefer to see their witty light labeling on push switches like these!
 
Do it!

Thanks Titanpat57

Debating changing back light to orange to match.............or is that going too far......ha-ha-ha

Not at all!!! I was looking for these switches, and ran into the same problems as you did, but planned on changing them to orange to match. Its the little details that make these additions awesome. I say do it!
 
Not at all!!! I was looking for these switches, and ran into the same problems as you did, but planned on changing them to orange to match. Its the little details that make these additions awesome. I say do it!

Ha, so true, so true...............added to the "To Do" list:bounce:
 
I'm in (or WAS) in the same boat as everyone here. BUT... I just came across this switch by On Board Air. They show a switch with the red dash light and green ON light, just like the factory lighting on a 2013 4Runner. Their web site only shows this switch with all blue lights, so I opted to pick up this switch on eBay. Since I'm installing a Rigid Industries 40" light bar, it comes with the fuse and relay already, so I'm figuring this will work!

Push Switch 9W07GR 12volt Toyota Replacement LED Light Bar Highlander Tacoma | eBay
 

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Nice find, post some pix when you get it install! Unfortunately listing has only 3 available :wtf: That was my initial problem, every time I'd check they were out of stock :ybrick:
 
Nice find, post some pix when you get it install! Unfortunately listing has only 3 available :wtf: That was my initial problem, every time I'd check they were out of stock :ybrick:
do you have a picture of how u wired the light to the head light high beam (+) wire for instant. thanks
 
but are they Orange??

[MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION] FTW

Right now NONE of the options I have seen or purchased are amber. I have bought from Australia directly and they are green, the versions from AOB are either blue, or red/green (like an orange red). They can probably do amber but at this time they don't have them listed for the 2010+ T4R.

AOB is the most complete/widest range of options for stock OEM-fitting switches I have found. I was looking at Australia, stumbled onto AOB on Fleabay and got the link to their US site as I was prepared to pay/ship within Australia - I have an office there so easy to acquire stuff and intercompany ship through guys on my team :biggrin2:

Completely happy with them so far...
 
do you have a picture of how u wired the light to the head light high beam (+) wire for instant. thanks

Sorry I didn't take a shots during install, but here are a couple for reference. Not sure what year your vehicle is, but this is what I did on my 2012..........

Soldered a diode to high beam (+) wire (green/black trace), then soldered a wire to the opposite end and routed to terminal #86 of relay (make sure silver stripe on diode is facing relay). Reason for diode is to prevent back feed to high beams if I turn on dash switch. Make sure all connections are waterproof to prevent corrosion, use heat shrink tubing!

Radioshack 3-Amp Barrel Diodes, Model: 1N5404 $1.99

If you don't want to cut/splice into your factory harness, might I recommend a harness extension..................9005 HB3 H10 Bulbs Extension Wiring Harness Wire Connector Socket Plugs

For 9005 HB3 H10 Bulbs Extension Wiring Harness Wire Connector Socket Plugs | eBay

This way you splice extension harness not factory harness......100% reversible. Been using these harnesses to add LED light bars to our 4 wheelers :reddance:
 

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Right now NONE of the options I have seen or purchased are amber. I have bought from Australia directly and they are green, the versions from AOB are either blue, or red/green (like an orange red). They can probably do amber but at this time they don't have them listed for the 2010+ T4R.

AOB is the most complete/widest range of options for stock OEM-fitting switches I have found. I was looking at Australia, stumbled onto AOB on Fleabay and got the link to their US site as I was prepared to pay/ship within Australia - I have an office there so easy to acquire stuff and intercompany ship through guys on my team :biggrin2:

Completely happy with them so far...

Dang it......still no amber :brick:

Nice find, looks like they have a great selection
 
but are they Orange??

[MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION] FTW

They are now............................................ :party:

Best buck twenty spent :guitar3:
 

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For those of you who can’t stand green illumination light that come with these aftermarket switches, and want to match your amber dash lights, here’s what I did.

First, difficulty: Disassembly/assembly of switch – easy (no springs or contact to fiddle with). Replacing LED light: moderate, but not difficult (experience soldering recommended)

Tools required: Soldering iron, solder, small (blade) screw driver, wire cutters, and a file

Replacement Amber 5mm LED (no resistor required)
LED 2.jpg


1. With switch in off position, insert screw driver into slot (red arrow) with a slight twist tab will release, repeat on opposite side. Rear alignment tabs are angled so no need to do anything, just lift straight up and remove cover. Now gently lift up on rear edge of circuit board (plug end), lift just high enough so circuit board is above notch of switch housing (yellow arrow).
Switch 1.jpg


2. Remove wiring harness plug insert (just slides out). On insert (picture shows circuit board side) you will notice a tab, tab lines up with alignment hole in circuit board.
Switch 2.jpg


3. Gently slide circuit board rearward until push button face contacts housing. You will notice square yellow plunger is seated in square plastic area of push button face (indicated by red arrow). Wiggle circuit board slightly while lifting straight up and yellow plunger will slide right out. Picture below shows circuit board unclipped from face to better show what I’m talking about.
Switch 3.jpg


4. We will be replacing the clear LED indicated by black arrow (also, notice circuit board already has resistors). After much searching, I was unable source an exact replacement LED, so I went to a local electronic shop who had two different round LED’s (3mm, 5mm) in amber. I choose the 5mm because it was slightly brighter, but knew it was going to be a tight fit. I also wasn’t sure how bright this choice was going to be since stock one was super bright, but what the heck…………..

If you want to change color of the switch “on” indicator, you could follow the same procedure and replace the upper green 3mm LED.
Board 1.jpg


5. De-solder clear LED and remove, remove any excess solder from board. Take new LED and bend leads 90 degrees. Make sure you keep polarity the same, positive to positive, negative to negative. Insert leads through circuit board holes and solder. **Caution should be taken not to allow solder from positive lead to contact negative lead. Take wire cutters and trim excess leads so they are flush with the other solder joints on board.
Board 2.jpg
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6. Amber LED installed. Two items to note, LED is touching metal housing of switch, second file lip off LED where black arrow is pointing. Space is tight, filing edge of LED (only on the circuit board outboard side) will allow just enough clearance that when switch is reassembled it will not bind or stick when turning on & off. Next, bend LED upward to match angle of green LED. Now is a good time to test our mod before reassembly, plug in harness and turn on parking lights, amber LED should illuminate! If not, check LED polarity or solder joints for good connections.
Board 3.jpg



7. If all is good, reassembly time. Once switch is reassembled, depress switch multiple times to verify it turns on & off without any binding or sticking. Plug in harness, insert into dash opening, all done.

I was concerned that the amber color wouldn’t match factory dash lights or they wouldn’t be bright enough, but I was pleasantly surprised, they match the factory switches perfectly. BTW, sorry for the crappy cell phone pictures.
 

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Great writeup! I'm a bit of a stickler for keeping things as close to OEM as possible so it's good to know that there are options for colour-matched factory style switches.

Going back a few posts, if you want to really simplify the addition of auxiliary lights you could also get the Slee Auxiliary Light Harness (LIG1002 - $35.00) and the 9005 Hi-Beam Jumper Harness (LIG1004 - $6.00). These will give you a prebuilt harness for your auxiliary lights and you can set them up to run in parallel with the high beams. I used these Slee harnesses on my 80 series and it made it really easy to add extra light and to use them while driving.
 
"For those of you who can’t stand green illumination light that come with these aftermarket switches, and want to match your amber dash lights, here’s what I did..."

Hi barryhiram,

:hail: "You're a genius!" :whoo:

I never even thought of doing that to change the LED or color; mine are green. I just figured I was lucky to get "push-button" type switches that fit! I got this one to replace the "Rocker switch" that I was using previously for the P.I.A.A 520 fog Lights.

"Here's the old rocker"
rigtec-albums-%26quot%3Bgentilmen+prefer+redheads%26quot%3B-picture26970-all-cell-pix-june-2014-014.jpg

^^Kinda looks like a hang nail sticking out like that!^^

"New push button"
rigtec-albums-%26quot%3Bgentilmen+prefer+redheads%26quot%3B-picture26969-all-cell-pix-june-2014-080.jpg


I have this switch wired independently of the headlights so I can use them w/o the lights on! I did however, wire the switch's 'lights on' indicator to the instrument cluster illumination circuit so it will light up when the dash lights are on.

"w/headlights only"
rigtec-albums-%26quot%3Bgentilmen+prefer+redheads%26quot%3B-picture26963-all-cell-pix-june-2014-093.jpg


"Now w/Foglights and HLs on"
rigtec-albums-%26quot%3Bgentilmen+prefer+redheads%26quot%3B-picture26964-all-cell-pix-june-2014-094.jpg


I actually damaged the "Lower dash knee bolster panel" because I needed to cut the hole bigger to fit the rocker sw into the knock-out, so I had to replace it w/a new one I got from ebay; $110 bucks.

I love these switches much better than the rockers; even though they're green cause they do match the instrument cluster Headlights/factory fogs/cruise cont. indicators and the 'S.O.S.' overhead 911 button.

This is a great thread, write-up and read! Good job! :hat: BIG PROPS BRO! :pimp:

rigtec, cheers
 
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