Failed transmission questions

[mtbtim]

Thank you for your sound advice. I called Yota1 and placed an order- they'll have a reman unit for me in ~3 weeks.

I checked with my usual Toyota parts dealers and indeed they were not able to source a new or remanufactured unit.

For those following along, Nick clarified that the Federal and California transmissions differ at the range switch, which is reused anyways. Also I'm required to replace my radiator and aux cooler to receive the warranty, he said they are extremely difficult to completely flush. He also suggested I replace my external transfer case seals given my usage, but would have suggested doing nothing if conditions were less abusive and no issues were present.

Thanks again Tim and everyone for the timely support.

Glad Nick was able to hook you up.

You're very welcome!

 

[Endlessblockades]

Glad to hear their lead times have dropped significantly. Yota1 sounds like the best option if you can afford it. Their site still states 6-8 weeks. Please share the details of this transaction and R&R, as it will no doubt be more common in the near-term as our rigs age! Does Yota1 want a stock tranny cooling system for warranty?

 

[2000se]

These threads are gold in this forum. So much respect and information from you guys. I'm praying I don't need to ever go this route but glad to know if I needed info I can get it here. Excellent.

 

[Gulah]

Glad to hear their lead times have dropped significantly. Yota1 sounds like the best option if you can afford it. Their site still states 6-8 weeks. Please share the details of this transaction and R&R, as it will no doubt be more common in the near-term as our rigs age! Does Yota1 want a stock tranny cooling system for warranty?

$2650 + $500 core + tax. I live about 3.5hr drive from them so they are building from a different core to save me a trip. I plan to drop off my failed trans when I pick up the reman. They will then inspect over a several week period to determine if I get the core refund. Definitely a rather pricey solution but hopefully the most reliable.

No, Nick seemed to approve of my running an external cooler in series with the stock radiator, they just don't want to have to warranty a transmission that gets destroyed by residual metal shavings. I will make sure they explicitly approve of my setup/installation and that nothing is voiding the 1 year unlimited mile warranty upon installation.

I'm pulling and replacing the trans myself. So far the hardest part has been building a winch anchor so that failed rig could drag itself into the garage. I plan on replacing all the easily accessible transfer case seals, the radiator, the aux cooler, the rear main seal, and anything else this fine community suggests. LMK if there are any other details you would like.

 

[Joshv4runner]

Glad Yota1 could take care of you. My rig is getting closer to 300k and my tranny still shifts strong but im doing drain/fill maintanence every 20k just to keep fresh fluid in there.

Going to be following this closely.

 

[Gulah]

Since there's some interest here I'll keep the updates flowing.

A little additional background that might influence failure rate analysis: my rig is fully armored (skids, bumpers, winch, sliders), stock gearing (elocker 4.30 I believe?), true 32" tires, I've owned it for ~40k miles prior to which I have no maintenance knowledge, I sometimes wheel hard in triple digit temperatures, been running valv maxlife synthetic ATF since Ive owned it at which time i replaced the gasket and filter, replaced all the fluid, installed transcooler in series, replaced the radiator, installed a magnafine filter. I recently replaced the magnafine filter. Fluid has always been clean and at a good level. My road driving is usually pretty gently and I would say this 4runner has always shifted better than my previous 96 or 98. When the trans finally failed I was on the way elk hunting loaded with an extra 800lbs of gear and people, but was just cruising the highway at ~65mph.

Yesterday I received a transmission jack, https://www.autozone.com/engine-and...p/big-red-1-2-ton-transmission-jack/94936_0_0 very similar to the HF one Timmy uses in his transmission video but a little cheaper and delivered faster with a 20% coupon.

Here is my first draft parts list generated after digging into the FSM, Timmy videos, and threads on here:

Transfer Case
2x 90179-22016 Companion Flange Nut
90311-41012 Front Transfer Case output shaft seal
2x 90312-23001 Companion flange seal
10x 90430-18008 Gasket Drain/Fill plugs
90311-40021 Transfer Case Input Shaft Seal
2x 90311-15008 Transfer Case Shift Shaft Seal
90311-41020 Transfer Case Extension Housing Seal (Front)
MCTM-523 Marlin Crawler Heavy Duty Shifter Seat
75W-90 Gear oil

Transmission
90301-09011 Automatic Transmission Dipstick Tube O-Ring
Hayden 699
Hayden Mounting Bracket
3/8" Transmission Cooler Hose
3/4" heater hose
Valvoline Max Life Synthetic
Magnafine transmission filter

Starter
28226-54340 STARTER KIT, BATTERY TERMINAL
28226-72010 STARTER KIT, MOTOR TERMINAL
28235-54380 PLUNGER, MAGNET SWITCH
28175-54380 GASKET; PACKING

Engine
90311-A0027 Engine Crankshaft Seal (Rear)
16410-AZ011 Radiator Assembly
Toyota Long Life Coolant
distilled water

I would love suggestions on anything else I should replace while im in there. Since I'm removing the radiator I thought about doing timing belt/waterpump but it's only been 40k so I think I'll wait. I plan on running the transcooler in series again trans -> hayden cooler -> radiator cooler -> trans. I'll be ordering parts and pulling the transfer case and radiator this week.

 

[162435]

Gulah,
Sorry to read of this failure, but it looks like you're equipped to do the swap successfully. I replaced my transfer case with a lower-mileage unit a few years ago - not an enjoyable experience working alone and with a rickety, Harbor Freight transmission jack. Uggh.

Tim - I love watching your videos and appreciate the time & effort you put into them. Great lead on the transmission shop.


Andreas

 

[Gulah]

Gulah,
Sorry to read of this failure, but it looks like you're equipped to do the swap successfully. I replaced my transfer case with a lower-mileage unit a few years ago - not an enjoyable experience working alone and with a rickety, Harbor Freight transmission jack. Uggh.

Tim - I love watching your videos and appreciate the time & effort you put into them. Great lead on the transmission shop.


Andreas

Thank you Andreas, I hope you're right! Most of the tasks involved are new to me but I'm plugging along with much gratitude for the folks here and Tim's videos.

I haven't had much time to work this week, but I have pulled off the shifter assemblies, reinstalled the trans pan, drained the transfer case, and a few others odds and ends. My shifter seat had also disintegrated like Sean's in Tim's trans replacement video. It was hard extracting all the pieces without contaminating the transfer case. I'll probably flush a quart through it and definitely going to order the marlin heavy duty seat. Next tasks are to finish removing the driveshafts, transfer case, and radiator.

 

[mtbtim]

Thank you Andreas, I hope you're right! Most of the tasks involved are new to me but I'm plugging along with much gratitude for the folks here and Tim's videos.

I haven't had much time to work this week, but I have pulled off the shifter assemblies, reinstalled the trans pan, drained the transfer case, and a few others odds and ends. My shifter seat had also disintegrated like Sean's in Tim's trans replacement video. It was hard extracting all the pieces without contaminating the transfer case. I'll probably flush a quart through it and definitely going to order the marlin heavy duty seat. Next tasks are to finish removing the driveshafts, transfer case, and radiator.

When it comes time to pull the transfer case and transmission and reinstall them, hopefully you'll have someone that can help you. Having an extra set of hands and eyes makes this job much easier.

I bet there's someone on this forum who's in your area that would be willing to lend a hand if you don't have someone to lend you a hand.

Or, you could try looking for help on a Facebook page like 3rd Gen Mafia. There's a lot of immaturity on that page but there's also a lot of good and knowledgeable people who contribute.

 

[tx_shooter]

$2650 + $500 core + tax. I live about 3.5hr drive from them so they are building from a different core to save me a trip. I plan to drop off my failed trans when I pick up the reman. They will then inspect over a several week period to determine if I get the core refund. Definitely a rather pricey solution but hopefully the most reliable.

No, Nick seemed to approve of my running an external cooler in series with the stock radiator, they just don't want to have to warranty a transmission that gets destroyed by residual metal shavings. I will make sure they explicitly approve of my setup/installation and that nothing is voiding the 1 year unlimited mile warranty upon installation.

I'm pulling and replacing the trans myself. So far the hardest part has been building a winch anchor so that failed rig could drag itself into the garage. I plan on replacing all the easily accessible transfer case seals, the radiator, the aux cooler, the rear main seal, and anything else this fine community suggests. LMK if there are any other details you would like.

You are coming through this about $1,500 cheaper than I did three years ago. The transmission on my '01 went out and nobody would touch it or warranty it because of the supercharger - except Toyota of Fort Worth. They did everything for $4,800 and gave me a loaner car for the week.

The good side is the remanufactured transmission has held up great (very identical build as your rig) without any issues. It was expensive but money well spent to keep the rig on the road.

 

[Endlessblockades]

You are coming through this about $1,500 cheaper than I did three years ago.

When you factor in the labor, OEM seals, parts, and fluids, and the loaner, I'd say you made out OK. it's a big chunk of change, but worth it to keep a 3rd gen on the road.

 

[tx_shooter]

When you factor in the labor, OEM seals, parts, and fluids, and the loaner, I'd say you made out OK. it's a big chunk of change, but worth it to keep a 3rd gen on the road.

Oh yeah, I have no complaint considering everything that they did. The dealership even use my 4Runner as a chance to the new techs how to work on the older rigs. They found a ground problem on the 3rd brake light and fixed it as part of the training. Now five years later the 4Runner is still going strong and pushing 400k miles.

Long live the 3rd gen!

 

[Gulah]

When it comes time to pull the transfer case and transmission and reinstall them, hopefully you'll have someone that can help you. Having an extra set of hands and eyes makes this job much easier.

I bet there's someone on this forum who's in your area that would be willing to lend a hand if you don't have someone to lend you a hand.

Or, you could try looking for help on a Facebook page like 3rd Gen Mafia. There's a lot of immaturity on that page but there's also a lot of good and knowledgeable people who contribute.

Thanks, and good idea. So far I've removed the transfer case and have the following comments for those tackling it in the future:

I followed the advice in Tim's video description and left the #3 crossmember and transmission mount attached, despite the FSM and his video showing it removed. This is the way, the only possible shortcoming being one of the transfer case to transmission bolts cannot be removed, though it can be unthreaded so it is a nonissue as far as I'm concerned.

The bottom of the transfer case is at a steep angle so rigging it onto the transmission jack is not trivial. I managed to do it with a ratchet strap and angling the support base, but I was worried about it tipping. I had an extra set of hands to catch it in case of issue, but it came out quite smoothly and stayed stable. Get the ratchet strap nice and tight. Also, the transfer case isn't that heavy (75lbs?).

I've since stumbled upon Tim's shifter bushing replacement video Auto Trans Shifter Bushing Replacement & Transfer Case Shifter Seat Replacement (3rd Gen 4runner) - YouTube which includes another transfer case shifter seat replacement. I think my shifter bushing are fine, but I did find that my transmission lever boot needs replacement. I believe the part number is 33555-35160, but the image is bad on several Toyota parts sites. This thread https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2947641-post57.html and the attached video (2000 4runner transfer case shift setup - YouTube) have been helpful thanks [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION]. The way he removes the transfer shift lever probably avoids disintegrated shifter seat from falling into the transfer case like it did for me.

Tim's video had me concerned i lost nylon bushing at the bottom of the transfer shifter into the the transfer case, but after some digging and test fitting I believe that part doesn't exist on my multimode case (and maybe not on any j-shifts).

Since I'm here I suppose I'll replace the gasket and deflector at the top of the transfer case, part numbers 36345-35050 and 36108-35060 I believe.

Parts are starting to roll in, I'll keep the updates coming. Thanks everyone!

 

[Gulah]

I also shared Tim's concern about the transmission pan being dented by the bolts on the transmission jack that hold the corner brackets. He alleviated the concerns by using a few pieces of foam. I don't have any around so I grinded off the welded-on chain clips and attached the brackets from the bottom with slightly thicker washers for a more permanent solution.

I also removed the bolts attaching the flex plate to the torque converter while i had a helper to spin the crank for me.

Next up: starter removal, unclipping wiring from trans, radiator replacement, transmission removal.

 

[Gulah]

Got the transmission out! With some careful rigging it came right out without issue. I removed the bottom transmission to engine bolts, rigged the jack, removed the transmission mount and crossmember, then removed the last few bolts and slid it out.

I probably had the most issue removing the starter despite watching Tim's video and having done the job once years ago. I got cocky after removing both hard to reach bolts in under a minute and then managed to break off both breathers in the struggle to rotate and remove it.

Radiator and old trans cooler have been removed, new radiator has been installed. Transmission lines removed for cleaning. Next jobs: rebuild starter and assess damage, order next round of parts, rear main seal, transfer case seals.

I'm thinking about replacing the transmission mount. It appears in pretty good condition, but I can peel the metal of the mount away from the rubber a little bit in some spots when I put the mount in tension. Some very mild cracking too. Thoughts anyone?

Also maybe noteworthy to someone, what I thought was a light seep out of my rear main seal (very cursory inspection) is actually a moderate valve cover gasket leak.

 

[mtbtim]

Got the transmission out! With some careful rigging it came right out without issue. I removed the bottom transmission to engine bolts, rigged the jack, removed the transmission mount and crossmember, then removed the last few bolts and slid it out.

I probably had the most issue removing the starter despite watching Tim's video and having done the job once years ago. I got cocky after removing both hard to reach bolts in under a minute and then managed to break off both breathers in the struggle to rotate and remove it.

Radiator and old trans cooler have been removed, new radiator has been installed. Transmission lines removed for cleaning. Next jobs: rebuild starter and assess damage, order next round of parts, rear main seal, transfer case seals.

I'm thinking about replacing the transmission mount. It appears in pretty good condition, but I can peel the metal of the mount away from the rubber a little bit in some spots when I put the mount in tension. Some very mild cracking too. Thoughts anyone?

Also maybe noteworthy to someone, what I thought was a light seep out of my rear main seal (very cursory inspection) is actually a moderate valve cover gasket leak.

Yeah, I'd replace the mount. It's the opportune time and they aren't that expensive from what I remember.

 

[phattyduck]

Tim's video had me concerned i lost nylon bushing at the bottom of the transfer shifter into the the transfer case, but after some digging and test fitting I believe that part doesn't exist on my multimode case (and maybe not on any j-shifts).

Since I'm here I suppose I'll replace the gasket and deflector at the top of the transfer case, part numbers 36345-35050 and 36108-35060 I believe.

Parts are starting to roll in, I'll keep the updates coming. Thanks everyone!

Oh, it exists (or, used to...). The OEM part is rubber and disintegrates. Get the Marlin shifter base to replace it.

Mine only had a few little flecks left when I replaced it. Here it is, cleaned up:

-Charlie

 

[Gulah]

Yeah, I'd replace the mount. It's the opportune time and they aren't that expensive from what I remember.

Will do, thank you sir.

 

[Gulah]

Oh, it exists (or, used to...). The OEM part is rubber and disintegrates. Get the Marlin shifter base to replace it.

Mine only had a few little flecks left when I replaced it. Here it is, cleaned up:

-Charlie

My apologies, I wasn't clear. Yes, my shifter seat has disentegrated and I had to fish some of the crumbs out of the transfer case. I will be replacing it with the marlin heavy duty seat (MCTM-523). The white nylon piece at the bottom tip of the lever assembly is what I was referring to, and I believe it never existed on my transfer case. Thanks for the reply and sorry for my ambiguity.

 

[Gulah]

Yesterday I strapped my core into my prius and made the pilgrimage over the Sierras to Yota1 Performance to pick up the new trans. Cool little shop, they appeared to have plenty of business.

Prior to my trip I had one more conversation with Nick finalizing my installation plans. He suggested that I not use an external filter, magnafine or otherwise. His comments as I recall were only clutch material should be floating around and would rather have that than flow restriction. Considering my transmission finally failed after replacing my filter (though I had symptoms before it), I'm happy enough to avoid the introduction of additional parts in the system and fluid restrictions. He also instructed for initial fill to target 2qts below specification, fill half of that amount, tap the starter to pump the fluid, fill the other half, bring transmission to temperature and fine tune the level. I confirmed with Nick that I'll be running a Hayden 699 in series with the new radiator mounted similarly to Tim's recent video, though I still haven't decided on the exact mounting or plumbing. Tim has it mounted with the ports on the side I'm assuming for optimal plumbing, but I haven't found any info from Hayden showing that orientation or mention of it being supported by their valving system, only "bi-directional flow". I'll probably call them. Cooler research:
https://www.haydenauto.com/media/9055/bypass-transmission-oil-cooler_flyer_2022.pdf
Ecatalog has a video that references this patent showing the bypass valve system
US6253837B1 - By-pass values for heat exchanger
- Google Patents


I've finished most of my prep work. I rebuilt the starter, including cleaning and regreasing the motor side of the assembly, replacing the solenoid contacts, the gasket, the breathers I broke (might be worth replacing regardless if you're in this deep, mine were quite brittle), and the plunger. I didn't replace or measure the brushes or brush springs, but all looked well and my starter has been functioning well. I used some super glue on a degraded terminal cover between the solenoid and motor as I couldn't find an OEM replacement. Parts list:

28226-54340 STARTER KIT, BATTERY TERMINAL
28226-72010 STARTER KIT, MOTOR TERMINAL
28235-54380 PLUNGER, MAGNET SWITCH
28175-54380 GASKET; PACKING
2x 28199-74110 PRORECTER, DUST STAR
2x 90099-14064 O-Ring (if you dissasemble the motor side, mine crumbled immediately)

I replaced the rear main seal. It wasn't very difficult, but you may need a helper on the front of the engine or a pulley holder tool on the flex plate to torque the flex plate down. Torque up slowly per the fsm. Also red loctite 271 (three bond 1324 or equivalent). I didn't seriously consider replacing my flex plate, I'd rather gamble on the one I have.

90311-A0027 Engine Crankshaft Seal (Rear)
three bond 1324 or equivalent (Toyota Adhesive & Sealant Cross Reference Chart - YotaTech Forums)

I replaced the external oil seals on the transfer case. I found these seals to be more challenging to install and remove. Considering the transfer case is easier to access if necessary, I wouldn't necessarily suggest messing with these (besides the fill/drain plug crush washers) if you have no signs of leakage. I'm going to reinstall a new set of the the shifter shaft seals tomorrow because I'm not happy with their insertion depth. A pry bar against the flange studs and impact gun spun the staked nut without issue. FSM prescribes moly grease for most of the seal lips. Part numbers:
2x 90179-22016 Companion Flange Nut
90311-41012 Front Transfer Case output shaft seal
2x 90312-23001 Companion flange seal
2x 90430-18008 Gasket Drain/Fill plugs
90311-40021 Transfer Case Input Shaft Seal
2x 90311-15008 Transfer Case Shift Shaft Seal (4x in my case)
90311-41020 Transfer Case Extension Housing Seal (Front)
MCTM-523 Marlin Crawler Heavy Duty Shifter Seat

I suggest you remove the shifter as an assembly with the top plate to avoid dropping shifter seat fragments into the transfer case like i did. If you do and have the same transfer case as me:
36108-35060 DEFLECTOR SUB-ASSY
36345-35050 GASKET, TRFER CONT S

Remember to remove all the brackets, shifter linkage, neutral position switch, breather hose, and mounting hardware from your core. I also needed an inspection plate and hardware on the transfer case side but I don't believe all A340F's have this. I was worried today i was missing an alignment dowel but I think/hope they're all present, 2 on the engine and 2 on the new transmission for the transfer case.

I also tackled some surface rust on the crossmembers and their mounts. Some quick wire brushing, VHT rust convertor primer, and some enamel. So far so good on this 23 year old rust prone frame, I'd like to keep it that way.

Does anyone know the part number for the retaining washer and gasket for the neutral position switch? My local dealer couldn't find them for sale seperately and I couldn't find them online despite the FSM suggesting the retaining washer needs replacement. My retaining washer was the only thing holding the nut on, but the switch took a scary amount of force to pry off. The switch part number I believe is 84540-30270. I noted from Tim's video to make sure you install this before the fluid lines.

Friendly reminder for those tackling this job to stay organized, take lots of pictures, tag/bag bolts and brackets. I'm already wishing I did better, but am thankful I didn't do worse.