Falls Lift Questions
- Thread starter Falls
- Start date
Canazes9
New member
Either lift is going to be very hard on your shocks if you bottom out your suspension hard. It won't make any difference which spacer set-up you have on there if the shocks have to act as bump stops.
Theoretically the lower lift option will be easier on the CV joints, but there are so many Toyota's running around w/ 2.5" lifts w/ 100K, 150K, 200K, etc on the original CV joints that it really is a moot point.
Get whichever you like better, don't wheel it hard enough to bottom it out w/ a really hard hit and you will be fine.
David
Canazes9
New member
CO's and springs ~vs~ Spacer lift
Please excuse my mechanical ignorance about this topic.
Im rethinking my lift options. Are CO's and rear springs easier to install than spacers. The spacers i have I will have to pull the spring with a compressor to install longer studs and put it back together , the rears are pull out the springs and put the spacers in.
If I buy CO's and rear springs would the (self) install be easier ? Seems to me like a remove and put in the new crap and just get an alignment or is there more to it than that ?
Mike~
Please excuse my mechanical ignorance about this topic.
Im rethinking my lift options. Are CO's and rear springs easier to install than spacers. The spacers i have I will have to pull the spring with a compressor to install longer studs and put it back together , the rears are pull out the springs and put the spacers in.
If I buy CO's and rear springs would the (self) install be easier ? Seems to me like a remove and put in the new crap and just get an alignment or is there more to it than that ?
Mike~
cbielat
Senior Member
As far as coilovers go, you'll have to remove the whole stock shock body out so you'll be having to remove the components on the lower UCA to do this. Some other components as well. With the spacer lift, you may not need to remove the bottom components if you can fit the spacer in this way. Just need it to droop enough to fit the spacer. With the rear, you'll need to just remove and replace the springs. You may need to have some compression on the spring or see if you can push up on one side of the axle after the first one is installed. Others on here will be able to go more in depth on this. If you do go with the coilovers, you may want to consider new aftermarket UCAs to get a better alignment but it's not a must.
Any of you running Toytec Co's on your 5th gen?
Anyone have problems with the install ? or after the fact ? My goal is to have better on and off road handling. I figure this install will be easier than spacers where I have to pull the CO apart to put longer studs in anyway , so it should go smoother.
I'm doing a mild lift and putting the CO's at 2.5" (which they say is the factory setting from Toytec ) I'm gonna throw the diff drop kit in since it's only $30. In the rear I'm gonna do SAW rear 1.5" coils and Bilstein 5100 series shocks.
Anyone have a pic of this set up and the 5th gen ?
Anyone have problems with the install ? or after the fact ? My goal is to have better on and off road handling. I figure this install will be easier than spacers where I have to pull the CO apart to put longer studs in anyway , so it should go smoother.
I'm doing a mild lift and putting the CO's at 2.5" (which they say is the factory setting from Toytec ) I'm gonna throw the diff drop kit in since it's only $30. In the rear I'm gonna do SAW rear 1.5" coils and Bilstein 5100 series shocks.
Anyone have a pic of this set up and the 5th gen ?
eddiebx
New member
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/off-t...far-more-accurately-than-standard-method.html
:hiding:
But seriously though, sit down for about an hour and flip through this entire thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/65893-post-your-lifted-pix-here.html
It has plenty of pictures of almost every single lift combination on earth...I also recall seeing the setups you mentioned when I was suspension shopping. Unfortunately, the thread is a zillion pages long so I forget exactly what page I saw them at sorry!
Anyway, what you said about swapping the entire coilover vs installing spacers is correct since the coilover is already assembled it's just a matter of unbolting the old and bolting back on the new.
From what I understand a diff drop is not needed @ 2.5", but I am not positive about that. Just what I've heard over and over again here on the forum...
:hiding:
But seriously though, sit down for about an hour and flip through this entire thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/65893-post-your-lifted-pix-here.html
It has plenty of pictures of almost every single lift combination on earth...I also recall seeing the setups you mentioned when I was suspension shopping. Unfortunately, the thread is a zillion pages long so I forget exactly what page I saw them at sorry!
Anyway, what you said about swapping the entire coilover vs installing spacers is correct since the coilover is already assembled it's just a matter of unbolting the old and bolting back on the new.
From what I understand a diff drop is not needed @ 2.5", but I am not positive about that. Just what I've heard over and over again here on the forum...
STLDAVE
Member
I put the Toytec COs and SAW coils on mine. HEre's my build thread for pictures and impressions.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/121765-stldaves-build-thread.html
Shogun
New member
[MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION] ...thanks for the fender mod write up.
Did the fender liner mod today on my '13 limited. It is a little different than the photo from years ago but the concept is the same. Was able to gain about 1/2" on each side. Also, has some clips that must be retained. I will try to attach some crappy pics.
Now I need to find an alignment shop that will work with me. Called 3 places so far and I think I know more about alignments than they do which is really sad because I just started reading through threads about alignments today.
Photo of 2 bolts holding liner on a '13 limited. Notice clip..
Here is a photo of the clip removed. this is what holds the screw in place. It has an S shape to it. So the smaller section clips into the lower piece and the fender liner slides into the slot in the larger section. So when you drill the new hole you will need to trim a little off the fender liner to allow the holes to line up. Hope this makes sense.
Did the fender liner mod today on my '13 limited. It is a little different than the photo from years ago but the concept is the same. Was able to gain about 1/2" on each side. Also, has some clips that must be retained. I will try to attach some crappy pics.
Now I need to find an alignment shop that will work with me. Called 3 places so far and I think I know more about alignments than they do which is really sad because I just started reading through threads about alignments today.
Photo of 2 bolts holding liner on a '13 limited. Notice clip..
Here is a photo of the clip removed. this is what holds the screw in place. It has an S shape to it. So the smaller section clips into the lower piece and the fender liner slides into the slot in the larger section. So when you drill the new hole you will need to trim a little off the fender liner to allow the holes to line up. Hope this makes sense.
black370Z
New member
You still can/will rub a little depending on the brand/type of tire that is 285/70/17. Most tire manufacturer specs can be a little different and depending how prolific the outside lugs are which are what do the rubbing.
Rather then cut the liner off to prevent the rubbing. Do what's referred to as pulling the front part of the liner forward.
Elongate the 2 bottom holes,or maybe there's 3,in the liner by taking it loose,pushing it forward as far as possible and carefully making new holes just in the liner. I used an exacto knife but the abs plastic is kind of hard to work with. My suggestion is to put the new holes in with and Dremel with a small round ball or equivalent .Put the bolts back in and tighten. Wala.....You now have 1/2" -1" more clearance so your tire doesn't rub in the front.
Then when you have it aligned ,take it to a shop that knows what they are doing and have them align it so the wheel is forward(max caster).You may not get max caster with the stock UCA and one of the main reasons people use aftermarket ones . This will make it so it won't rub in the back ,on the mud flap in my case. Here is a pic I just took at the bottom front drivers side to try and give you an idea of what I'm talking about. See the gap I created where I moved it forward.That gets you an extra 1/2" or so of clearance and no rubbing. We need somebody to do a better write-up on this when/if they do it...hint sp8ball/antman!!!My bolts just look different because I used Aircraft stainless bolts/washer/nuts. I think it will make more sense when you get up under there and take the fasteners out and see that the liner can be pushed forward! It's a very simple mod.This is an old pic and of a TE liner. A SR5/Limited liner will be a little different to do, but the same principal to move the liner forward.
Harper - thank you so much for this information. Took me 15 mins and worked perfectly!!!! Great idea!!
KatChan
New member
Fender liner mod 2014 TE
So here is what it looks like from the 14' TE. I haven't actually pulled the trigger and moved forward with the mod yet. I've never ever done anything like this so I need to double and triple confirm everything. My concern is that the strain from the new position will eventually tear the liner to where the new and old holes become one big hole. I dont know, maybe the liner is stronger than I give it credit for? I guess I just need to space the new holes a sufficient distance away from the old holes such that they wont eventually merge from stress.
The other issues is that it may be rubbing on the corner of the actual body. I dont really have any concerns on cutting that away. it would only be a few cm's chopped off.
Nitto Trail Grapplers M/T 285/70R17
Rubs when fully locked in reverse only
So here is what it looks like from the 14' TE. I haven't actually pulled the trigger and moved forward with the mod yet. I've never ever done anything like this so I need to double and triple confirm everything. My concern is that the strain from the new position will eventually tear the liner to where the new and old holes become one big hole. I dont know, maybe the liner is stronger than I give it credit for? I guess I just need to space the new holes a sufficient distance away from the old holes such that they wont eventually merge from stress.
The other issues is that it may be rubbing on the corner of the actual body. I dont really have any concerns on cutting that away. it would only be a few cm's chopped off.
Nitto Trail Grapplers M/T 285/70R17
Rubs when fully locked in reverse only
Billy_R
New member
Even with a 3 inch lift my 285 T/A KO2s rubbed a tiny bit in reverse when a attempting a full turn. This remedied the problem. Thanks [MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION]
Teufel_Runner
New member
Sweet!
This will be one of my first to do's when I get home!
You still can/will rub a little depending on the brand/type of tire that is 285/70/17. Most tire manufacturer specs can be a little different and depending how prolific the outside lugs are which are what do the rubbing.
Rather then cut the liner off to prevent the rubbing. Do what's referred to as pulling the front part of the liner forward.
Elongate the 2 bottom holes,or maybe there's 3,in the liner by taking it loose,pushing it forward as far as possible and carefully making new holes just in the liner. I used an exacto knife but the abs plastic is kind of hard to work with. My suggestion is to put the new holes in with and Dremel with a small round ball or equivalent .Put the bolts back in and tighten. Wala.....You now have 1/2" -1" more clearance so your tire doesn't rub in the front.
Then when you have it aligned ,take it to a shop that knows what they are doing and have them align it so the wheel is forward(max caster).You may not get max caster with the stock UCA and one of the main reasons people use aftermarket ones . This will make it so it won't rub in the back ,on the mud flap in my case. Here is a pic I just took at the bottom front drivers side to try and give you an idea of what I'm talking about. See the gap I created where I moved it forward.That gets you an extra 1/2" or so of clearance and no rubbing. We need somebody to do a better write-up on this when/if they do it...hint sp8ball/antman!!!My bolts just look different because I used Aircraft stainless bolts/washer/nuts. I think it will make more sense when you get up under there and take the fasteners out and see that the liner can be pushed forward! It's a very simple mod.This is an old pic and of a TE liner. A SR5/Limited liner will be a little different to do, but the same principal to move the liner forward.
This will be one of my first to do's when I get home!
minimalist
New member
Has anyone described how to do this with a little more detail. This is making me feel really stupid because I'm just not seeing it.
Northern 4Runner
New member
I've been looking at this picture for quite some time, and what I think we are looking at in under the front bumper, in front of the wheel well. Basically where say a chin spoiler would be on a truck like a Tacoma or Colorado. I could be totally wrong, and if I am a couple of further out pictures to locate what exactly we are looking at would be helpful,
