Finally ordered suspension/brake upgrade

[marshal]

I appreciate your input. I don't tow, but I drive pretty hard.

I need to replace the rotors—they have about 80k on them—I just figured I'd do everything while I have it apart.

[MENTION=104049]marshal[/MENTION] I know you just installed your EBC, but are you still thinking they're the bee's knees?

Are your rotors warped? I have 80 on mine, they're in such good shape I didn't even bother getting them ground down when I put my new pads on. And yes, aside from the extra dust they generate I'm super pleased with them and will be getting them again.

 

[tristero]

Are your rotors warped? I have 80 on mine, they're in such good shape I didn't even bother getting them ground down when I put my new pads on. And yes, aside from the extra dust they generate I'm super pleased with them and will be getting them again.

Slightly warped. It started happening when I upgraded the tires. I don't have a shimmy shake yet, but they're having a rough time in this daily traffic. Today for example I went from Oakland to San Francisco to Hayward and back to Oakland all in heavy traffic, and by the time I got home the brakes were just hot and worn out.

I put slotted rotors on my lady's tC with EBC brakes and it does much better over the OEM. The dust is truly absurd though.

 

[kapp_badbloodz]

I wonder if Hawk makes pads for our vehicles. They made some badass pads for my STI. Low brake dust and helped stop on a dime.


Also, I didnt notice if you followed any bed-in procedure for when you installed your pads. Pads only usually dont matter but when you install brakes and rotors all around you should do a solid bed-in procedure so you dont wear your pads out too quick and that the brake upgrades work as advertised.

I think the car stops fast enough but my front end feels like it dive bombs into the pavement... its annoying as **** (the whole assisted braking thing).

 

[Magnetic4R]

I put slotted rotors on my lady's tC with EBC brakes and it does much better over the OEM. The dust is truly absurd though.

I can't stand the brake dust. I find that the akebono pro act brake is a happy compromise on my vehicles.

 

[FrontRange4Runner]

I'm curious to hear how the upgraded rotors change your braking. Please keep us posted!

OEM rotors will preform as well or better than just about any other. Rotors are nothing but heat sinks. Slotting and drilling take away from rotor mass while adding almost zero cooling effects. (Their original purpose was to combat pad off-gassing which would push the pad off the surface of the rotor - a nonissue today) This results in a a rotor that can hold less heat while being less structurally sound. His upgrade (especially from towing) will come in the form of a pad compound that is more resistant to fade at high temperatures. Regardless of what people will say, rotors will almost never make a noticeable difference in braking. Pads are 100x more important.

I've said it a bunch on here already, but never buy a drilled rotor. I drove manufacturer test cars for many years and even the super high end -forged- "drilled" rotors had stress cracks @25k. Even Porsche admits that they use drilled rotors for looks alone (that and people pay 2x the cost for a cool looking rotor that lasts half as long...lol) Pads > Rotors all day every day.

To the OP, good pad choice! My friend has them on his Tacoma and loves them. I have a set of Yellowstuff in my garage that I got for super cheap and can't wait for my stock pads to go....at this rate I'm not sure that will ever happen.

Edit: Just replied to a post thats 2 years old lol.... Beers happen

 

[FrontRange4Runner]

I went back to the stock rotors, the slotted ones warped too, and replaced the EBC with duralast gold pads. I was towing a boat a lot so I went through the pads pretty fast. Overall the duralast were better though.

Keep in mind that rotors rarely "warp". It's far more likely that at some point your pads overheated and left residue on the rotors. If you tow a lot, then you will be going through pads regardless, but selecting one that has a very high heat capacity will keep it from overheating and giving you the "warped" feel. If Greens were not enough then EBC makes Yellow's that are rated to much higher temps, and other manufactures such as Hawk make similar pads. With these you will most likely sacrifice some initial bite, but benefit from having pads that withstand prolonged braking while towing (often they bite much harder when hot - not an attribute I like in women...) Sorry,I didn't mean to blow up your thread, I just don't want you to keep warping your brakes when you could probably just solve your problems with the correct pads and some inexpensive blank rotors. :cheers:

 

[Paragon1]

Keep in mind that rotors rarely "warp". It's far more likely that at some point your pads overheated and left residue on the rotors. If you tow a lot, then you will be going through pads regardless, but selecting one that has a very high heat capacity will keep it from overheating and giving you the "warped" feel. If Greens were not enough then EBC makes Yellow's that are rated to much higher temps, and other manufactures such as Hawk make similar pads. With these you will most likely sacrifice some initial bite, but benefit from having pads that withstand prolonged braking while towing (often they bite much harder when hot - not an attribute I like in women...) Sorry,I didn't mean to blow up your thread, I just don't want you to keep warping your brakes when you could probably just solve your problems with the correct pads and some inexpensive blank rotors. :cheers:

no worries at all, i didnt have any problems with stock rotors, it was the aftermarket ones that warped which is why i went back to stock. I guess i could've been a bit clearer on my original post lol. cheers