Fire Extinguisher Information

T4Rfirefighter

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After noticing a picture in another thread, I started to have a discussion about fire extinguishers and didn't want to derail the thread, so I decided to make another to keep things on topic.

Let me start by saying that I am impressed with the number of members who have taken the effort to install fire extinguishers in their rigs. It is easy to overlook them, so my hat is off to those who have taken this step already. To those who have not, my hope is that this discussion will help you decide which extinguisher to choose for your own rig.

Just a little background so that you know about the knowledge I'm trying to pass along - I'm a professional firefighter in Little Rock, Arkansas and on the days I'm not at the fire station I work for a fire extinguisher service company where I am a licensed technician. This will be long, but I will try to give you all as much knowledge as I can in a brief manner.

First thing on extinguishers - you need them. They can seem expensive, but in the grand scheme of things they are cheap. When your vehicle is worth thousands, or even tens of thousands of dollars, a $50 fire extinguisher is a drop in the bucket to help keep your rig from burning to the ground when it could have been stopped quickly.

Secondly, if you do ever find yourself in need of one, you will want a quality extinguisher. I see a lot of guys on here buying Kidde, First Alert, etc. from Home Depot, Walmart and other big box retailers. These are junk, to be frank. Look at the extinguishers the stores have hanging on their walls the next time you shop and you will see they don't have Kiddes or whatever else they stock on their shelves. They buy quality extinguishers. Don't even bother with Cold Fire or other aerosol products that claim to be extinguishers.

There are a lot of brands that make extinguishers, so here is a breakdown of brands to get and which ones to avoid:

Top of the line: Amerex, Ansul (Sentry)
Middle of the road: Badger, General
Waste of money: Kidde, First Alert, Buckeye, Pem All

Many of the last category leak within a year of their manufacture, even the "top of the line" metal head Kiddes. Gauges, O-rings and even the welds on the cylinders are often bad from the factory and they are worthless in no time. We have a junk pile of them at our shop where owners got fed up with their brand new extinguishers they bought from HD or Lowe's that are leaked down before they make it to a year old. If they don't leak before being used, many of the plastic handles tend to break when depressed, rendering them useless. They are good for scrap and that's about it.

A brand new 5lb. Amerex ABC extinguisher with a vehicle bracket can be had for less than $100. If size is important, you can get a 2.5lb. extinguisher, or even a tiny 1lb. unit designed for airplanes. If you don't think you have that in the budget, you can also look for a used extinguisher. A call or visit to your local fire extinguisher company is all it takes to get a quality used extinguisher for half the price of a new unit ($35 for a used 5lb. ABC extinguisher to give you an idea of prices). If even that doesn't seem like it will fit your budget, or you just want a disposable extinguisher, look for an extinguisher made before 1984. NFPA 10 no longer allows these extinguishers for be serviced, so they are dirt cheap or even free. They cannot be used by businesses any longer, but you can use them in your home or vehicle. They can be found at flea markets, on Craigslist, extinguisher companies and even some fire departments. they will have the older A B C labels instead of the newer picture labels showing the different classes of fires they will extinguish.

Many older extinguishers are higher quality than new extinguishers. Brass and aluminum heads and steel or aluminum handles are the norm, not cheap plastic like you will find on many newer extinguishers. Parts are still readily available for older Amerex, Ansul, and some other brands of extinguishers dating back to the 1970s. I personally have several of these old Amerex, Ansul and even some American LaFrance (rebadged Badger) extinguishers in my home, garage an vehicles.

Some people don't see any problem with running a $20 plastic head extinguisher from Walmart. To me it is a no brainer to spend a few dollars more to have a reliable extinguisher that you can count on to work when you need it and have it for years to come.

One last thing - don't try to recharge extinguishers at home. It requires specialized equipment in most cases and can be dangerous and extremely messy if you don't know what you are doing. Plus, you probably will have a leaked down extinguisher before long if you attempt to do it on your own. They require folks like me who rebuild them for a living to be licensed to work on these things for a reason.

Sorry for the length of the post, just trying to pass along some friendly information to everybody. If you have any questions about extinguishers or fire safety in general for your vehicle, shop or garage, please ask and I'll answer to the best of my ability. I'm not getting paid by anybody to endorse their brand, only passing along my personal experience from working on thousands of extinguishers over the years.

Stay safe out there.
 
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Thanks for the info. I do have a question , can I leave a extinguisher in the car over the winter ? We occasionally hit 40 below .
 
Thanks for Info.

Thanks for great info... I recently bought one from costco...I think it is Kidde. So, I will now look for better option.

Question 1. Same as above post...Leaving it in car... is it ok for cold winter or hot summer.?

Question 2. Is it ok to mount horizontal in your car?
 
Temperature doesn't affect stored pressure dry chem extinguishers (your common BC and ABC extinguishers) much. The Amerex I just looked at says good from -65F to 120F. High heat will pop the safety relief on a high pressure extinguisher like a CO2, but dry chem extinguishers are pretty tough.

Mounting doesn't matter. The chemical is like fine baking soda that has chemicals added to prevent it from caking, so long as moisture doesn't get inside the cylinder. The pressure is usually more than enough to break up and clumps that may develop inside.
 
Good advice. I carry an extinguisher in my 4runner at all times. You never know when you will need to use it on your vehicle, or even someone else's. They can save money, and a life.
 
Part of my old job for a fire suppression company was checking extinguishers.

How to test if a dry chemical extinguisher is still good:
Check that the gauge is in the green (duh.) Not over or under.
Flip the extinguisher over and palm the tank. After a short period of time the powder inside should settle on the bottom. If it doesn't shift it needs to be recharged.

Again this is for dry chemical extinguishers. And technically an extinguisher needs to be rebuilt/recharged after 6 years and retired after 12.
 
Part of my old job for a fire suppression company was checking extinguishers.

How to test if a dry chemical extinguisher is still good:
Check that the gauge is in the green (duh.) Not over or under.
Flip the extinguisher over and palm the tank. After a short period of time the powder inside should settle on the bottom. If it doesn't shift it needs to be recharged.

Again this is for dry chemical extinguishers. And technically an extinguisher needs to be rebuilt/recharged after 6 years and retired after 12.

Correct on the 6 year maintenance, but every 12 years they are to be hydrostatically tested, unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer.

https://www.usfa.fema.gov/downloads/pdf/coffee-break/cb_fp_2010_9.pdf
 
I see my post sparked you to write this haha. But thank you! Again I take safety very serious traveling with the fire extinguisher (now i need a new one!) and a first aid kid. This year I plan to become re-certified in CPR and I'm trying to get my employer to provide first aid training for people who wish to participate. I work at a resort so you never know what can happen.

If I want training on my own, is this something I can check with at the local fire department? I live in a very small mountain town.
 
I see my post sparked you to write this haha. But thank you! Again I take safety very serious traveling with the fire extinguisher (now i need a new one!) and a first aid kid. This year I plan to become re-certified in CPR and I'm trying to get my employer to provide first aid training for people who wish to participate. I work at a resort so you never know what can happen.

If I want training on my own, is this something I can check with at the local fire department? I live in a very small mountain town.

It really just depends on the department, but definitely worth looking into, in my opinion.
 
Every type of extinguisher has pros and cons. CO2 is cheap to refill and obviously produces less of a mess than dry chemical, but you get a larger and heavier extinguisher that is more expensive to purchase initially.

If you can afford it, a clean agent extinguisher like Halon or FE-36 is great. Small size, lightweight, very effective on BC fires and the big plus is no residue like you get with dry chems or the potential to damage electrical components with cold temperatures like you get with CO2.

Halon 1211 is still legal, it just hasn't been produced since 1994. That said, if you use one and have to get it refilled, it is around $30 a pound. Another misconception is that Halon is dangerous to inhale. This is true in confined areas with large systems like server rooms, but on an electrical fire on a vehicle, you'd be much more likely to injured by breathing super heated gas or toxic fumes from the fire than you would from the Halon.

All that to say, I'd recommend a 5lb. ABC in every vehicle that has the room for it. If for nothing other than being able to help other motorists who have a fire, you'll have a cheap and effective extinguisher at hand to help with. If you're concerned about damaging your own rig with ABC powder and can afford a Amerex Halon 1211, Ansul Cleanguard, etc. then by all means get one.

CO2 just takes up too much room and weighs a lot for a good sized extinguisher. Plus it will let you know in a hurry if it gets too hot.
 
Ok since we're on the topic (and thanks for this btw), where's the best place to mount one in our 3rd gens?
 
The reason I asked about CO2 is because all I have been able to find out is that I can't afford it.

CO2 did not seem to be for sale anyWhere.

I should mention I normally shop online.
 
Thanks for detailing the differences. You can read about this stuff online all day so I value a professional's opinion. I've carried a cheap dry chemical for awhile, luckily only needed it once to help put out a small brush fire that started while out shooting one day. I've always cringed at the thought of using it on/inside my truck though. I know that dry chemical powder should be the least of my concerns when faced with a vehicle fire, but it doesn't mean I don't think about it.

After hearing this I'll probably retire my current cheapie to backup duty in the garage and pick up one of the Halon units. Thanks again for taking the time to post this.
 
I bought a First Alert 540003 extinguisher from Costco for around $30. It was listed as "Professional/Commercial grade" so I thought it was decent, of course that was before this thread. I did read a review where someone had taken it apart and found the internals to be mostly metal instead of plastic, but I can't find the link anymore. Anyway, I wanted mine quickly accessible which is why I chose this spot. I thought about the rear cargo area but it would be slow to access once I get a rear tire carrier bumper. I used two Quick Fist mounts screwed to the floor with self tapping sheet metal screws and it holds very secure. If I have to flip the seat up I do have to take the extinguisher out but the mounts just fold out of the way. And it gives me a chance to practice taking it out quickly.

IMG_3009.jpg~original
 
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CO2 is cheap to refill. Unfortunately it also has to be hydrotested every 5 years as opposed to 12 years for a dry chem extinguisher. They are also eddy tested for cracks in the neck. If they fail that, your expensive extinguisher is no good.

As far as mounting goes, my 5 pounder is mounted in the rear cargo area on the driver side in a vehicle bracket with 2 straps. Some extinguishers have their own specific brackets, but there are universal brackets that work great and the rubber ones like McGyver1 has are great.

Even the First Alert and Kidde extinguisher that use metal parts are inferior to other brands. Weak springs that won't hold the valve stem against the head, cheap rubber on the stems that flatten out and won't hold a seal, poor welds that leak, little or no glue on the gauge threads to prevent leaks, and I could go on for a while with other issues we see of these things every day. When we service these extinguishers we have to leak test them longer than other brands because we expect them to leak more than we expect them to hold.

I'll try to get some pictures comparing parts from one brand to the next to show the difference in quality.
 
Ok since we're on the topic (and thanks for this btw), where's the best place to mount one in our 3rd gens?

Where you can get it RIGHT NOW. I need to find a way to mount mine on the front of the drivers seat, because strapped to my roll bar is way too far away.
 

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