First time doing the TB &WP this weekend

[mastee]

I will be using the three DIY listed blelow for reference, if others are recommended please let me know. Thanks

Timing Belt and Water-Pump Replacement

http://www.nwtoys.com/forum/tech-article-submissions/1261-5vz-fe-timing-belt.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/84683-tb-hg-photo-timeline-3.html

I will try to take pics and takes any notes, wish me luckray:

 

[LittleCaesar]

Good luck to ya. Probably the best advice I can give is to keep a level head and to make sure everything lines up before releasing the tensioner.

If you are YT friendly, here is one DIY:
3.4L V6 5vz-fe Timing Belt and Water Pump Ep 4 - YouTube

 

[mastee]

Can someone please confirm that I do not need the Tensioner tool per the comment below?

Comment from Amazon
You do not need this if replacing with new TB Tensioner
By emo on April 1, 2012
Don't buy this. If your kit has a new Tensioner as in this kit (Timing Belt Kit Toyota 4 Runner 1996 to 2002 3.4L 5VZFE V6 by TBK $256.90), you don't need the compressor (SCH97300). The kit comes with a new one that is compressed already. If you're reusing your Tensioner, you'd need this.

 

[LittleCaesar]

That is correct. The tensioner tool is not needed if you are replacing the tensioner.

I would, however, based on those pics, release the tension on all three of those drive belts as the next step.

 

[drtyjerz47]

I will be using the three DIY listed blelow for reference, if others are recommended please let me know. Thanks

Timing Belt and Water-Pump Replacement

http://www.nwtoys.com/forum/tech-article-submissions/1261-5vz-fe-timing-belt.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/84683-tb-hg-photo-timeline-3.html

I will try to take pics and takes any notes, wish me luckray:

Where did you get that complete kit for that price? was it online or did you actually go to that seller in VA and purchase it?

Im looking forward to seeing how the rest of the job went so keep up tyne good work and the posts, i have to do this job very soon and am trying to gather all the parts and info i can

 

[mastee]

I got the kit on ebay, just make a best offer, you might get declined but will get it for the lowest price I have seen on the kit.

Work wise I am on to the crank pulley now, the truck is in the garage so I have had the liberty of being very lazy (had to watch the Spurs n Heat)

I may endup going the 4x2 route for the pulley, if I cannot rent the tool at NAPA tomorrow, will keep you guys posted.

As you can see it was way overdue

 

[kingin]

Should be able to use a strong impact gun to remove and install crank pulley bolt. I did mines 2 weeks ago didn't use any special tools just impact gun. But with impact gun you won't be able to use torque wrench to torque pulley bolt in. I just impacted the bolt in for 10 seconds and called it a day. To each his own.

I also used the write ups u posted above (great write ups) I couldn't get the special tool anywhere and didn't feel like waiting.

 

[TheDurk]

Should be able to use a strong impact gun to remove and install crank pulley bolt. I did mines 2 weeks ago didn't use any special tools just impact gun. But with impact gun you won't be able to use torque wrench to torque pulley bolt in. I just impacted the bolt in for 10 seconds and called it a day. To each his own.

I also used the write ups u posted above (great write ups) I couldn't get the special tool anywhere and didn't feel like waiting.

I wish you luck. If you did not reach full 218 ft-lb. torque that bolt will start to come loose, pulley will start to wobble, and you will lose time, hopefully you will only FUBAR the pulley and not the crank nose basically requiring a new engine (cheaper than a new crank). We have seen both several times on this forum. I would NEVER do it your way.

...to each his own.

 

[jreask]

i wish you luck. If you did not reach full 218 ft-lb. Torque that bolt will start to come loose, pulley will start to wobble, and you will lose time, hopefully you will only fubar the pulley and not the crank nose basically requiring a new engine (cheaper than a new crank). We have seen both several times on this forum. I would never do it your way.

...to each his own.

+1000

 

[kingin]

I've never had a problem, I did also replace the bolt and added some locktite, also the engine spins in the same direction as tighten the bolt so shouldn't loosen over time. I am not a master tech but I did ask numerous mechanic friends after reading the write up and everyone of them said that's what they do when they replace timing belt water pump. Oh well lol I'll definitely post up if the crank bolt falls out or I have a major engine disaster from crank bolt.

If impact gun can break loose the crank bolt torqued to 218ft lbs why can't it torque crank bolt down to 218lbs if not a little more??

My way is WRONG based on what the manual says to do, I couldn't get my hands on the special tool so I winged it.

 

[mastee]

Update: Made Pulley Holder, Crank Bolt Off

I wanted to give you guys an update:

I had no luck with the tool rental so I decided to improvise from the many ideas already there (although I could have one made from our vendor ,a fab shop) but did not think it was necessary or cost effective

I went to Ace hardware, and got a 3/8" cobalt bit, two grade 10 3/8" bolts, and a 1/8" thick 1-3/4" wide n 48" long flat bar. I initially tried to cut it with the dremel but it was kinda slow so I decided to drill couple of holes to speedup the process. I was a bit surprised how good the drill bit works with some cutting fluid. See pictures for better illustration.

BTW I used a 18" breaker bar plus 18" extension on the 19mm nut and my pulley holder contraption with app 40" handle length, it did not take much to break it. Although I did see the bar flex a bit and then it came loose....

The pulley is not wiggling out, can someone please confirm that I can wrench in two bolts equally, like on a drum brakes to pull it loose?



I have a Torque wrench that goes to 250 ft-lbs, so some blue thread locker and 218 ft-lbs for me

 

[mastee]

Almost done one way

After soaking with PB blaster overnight and a few light taps with a mallet and the pulley came right off, there was crud on the belt it self and lots of it all around it

Can I use simple green and hose it off before I take off the WP and thermostat, any other recommendations?

I will add and edit more steps to this thread later....

 

[mastee]

I have taken the water pump and thermostat off, and have done some cleaning on the mating surface.

How does one get to the back bolt of the lower tensioner for the lower pulley, visible at 9:00 in the first pic--UPDATE: BY removing the ac compressor (4 bolts) & bracket (5 bolts), I just hung the compressor with some rope and laid the bracket on frame and then had easy access with a 6" extension...

 

[mastee]

All done with the world longest running TB and WP job,

https://flic.kr/p/nPiv5M

 

[LittleCaesar]

Good job.

I had to stop at the cog set in the Flicker album. I didn't know anyone took the time to modify Del Sols. My aunt had one, but drove it into a salt water creek one evening to avoid a deer.

 

[Arnezie]

All done with the world longest running TB and WP job,

https://flic.kr/p/nPiv5M

What would you say was the hardest part?

 

[mastee]

I had done shocks, tranny cooler type jobs before so this was a big leap for me. However, after finishing it up I would say the job is actually not that difficult, I took time because of the cleanup needed, making the crank tool twice, social distractions and work responsibilities.

The DIY are excellent, next time it wont take more than a day max.

I am still flushing with distilled water and then will fill her up with Toyota Red ATF, so far I have driven about 100 miles post installations and she is purring really nice, no leaks.

..The Del Sol was sold last week, I had not modified it except the seats but did take it to the GA mountains a lot which was a blast on the twisties