Fixing the transfer case shift motor leak from within..

[MandAtaco]

Just saw this write-up and it is outstanding. I will be doing this repair over the Christmas/New Years break so this couldn't have come at a better time for me.

Thanks MandAtaco for doing this. Still no leak? and actuator still working ok?

Glad to do the write up and help others. Still no leaks, and I just went through diff lock, and 4Low last week and everything worked great. Happy to not be leaking all over the place anymore!

 

[Slowgoat]

This is a wonderful write up.

It makes something that is incredibly difficult and precise almost look easy.

I don't think I would ever try it, but more than anything, I love that I can understand what is going on in there (especially after I had a frozen actuator the first 3 months I owned mine).

Great work!!!!!!!!!

:nicethread:

 

[GLP]

Thanks again for doing the write-up. I will be doing the same repair soon so I had a few of questions:

1) In the photo where you show the 2 case halves separated (your 6th photo down), in the upper right corner I see a round cover that has been removed. This looks to be what the FSM calls the "FRONT BEARING RETAINER SUB-ASSY". Removal of this was not mentioned in the write-up so I was wondering if it was necessary to remove this.

2) Same photo as above there is a rectangular cover that has been removed. Did you have to remove this?

3) Did you replace the oil seal in the front driveshaft flange? This looked like it would be easy to do since you have to remove that flange.

Thanks

 

[MandAtaco]

Thanks again for doing the write-up. I will be doing the same repair soon so I had a few of questions:

1) In the photo where you show the 2 case halves separated (your 6th photo down), in the upper right corner I see a round cover that has been removed. This looks to be what the FSM calls the "FRONT BEARING RETAINER SUB-ASSY". Removal of this was not mentioned in the write-up so I was wondering if it was necessary to remove this.

2) Same photo as above there is a rectangular cover that has been removed. Did you have to remove this?

3) Did you replace the oil seal in the front driveshaft flange? This looked like it would be easy to do since you have to remove that flange.

Thanks

Good eyes! I was wondering if anyone would catch that or if I should mention it. Let me answer your questions....

1 and 2 - When I first split the case, it didn't seem to want to split, really what happend was I was being pretty timid with it! I wasn't really sure what was going to come falling out when they came appart. I pulled off the front seal retainer and the top cover (the FSM mentioned pulling these before splitting the case) to try to see if there was anything else that needed to be removed, (nothing did). So those peices didn't need to come off at all, I just made extra work for myself when it was time to put it back together. Thats why I didnt mention it in the write up.

3 - I did not replace my output flange seal as mine wasn't leaking. If your is, its a great time to replace it! I Figured if mine started leaking down the road, it's not too bad to get at it to replace it then.

Hope that helps, feel free to ask me anything else, and I'd be glad to help out if I can.

MandAtaco

 

[762x51]

Nice green wrench in the background :wink2:

I am in the process of ordering all the needed seals and was wondering if you could clear up a question for me. Colonial seals website seems to be down, or at least I cant get it to load. Does this Metric Oil Shaft Seal 15 x 23 x 7 15x23x7 15mm x 23mm x 7mm Double Lip - Ultimate Industrial Solutions LLC look like the same seals that you have? Thanks.

 

[MandAtaco]

Green wrench... what green wrench! :smokin:

Yea weird, Colonial's site does seem to be down or something. The seal in the picture "looks" just like the one I used. I tried to match up some of the numbers on the bag they came in to the website you linked and non of them lined up.

Just from looking this up, it seems there is a bunch of people that carry that particular seal size though. My "assumption" is they are all probably the same seal, but Id hate to say that for sure.

Maybe Colonial's site will come back up soon.

 

[762x51]

Well, I ordered the ones that I linked. I'm pretty confident that they are the sames ones and will work. Thanks for looking into them for me.

 

[GLP]

I recently completed the o-ring replacement on my 4Runner as the leak was getting worse and worse. I have driven 300 miles since with no leaks and the actuator H4/L4 and CDL works fine. I used MandAtaco's write-up which I found to be VERY helpful. This is definitely a DIYer job. I mean if I can do this pretty much anyone can. Prior to this the most difficult thing I have done is replace my timing belt and I thought doing the TB was harder than this. I don't have any photos - MandAtaco's write-up is sufficient on its own. Here's a couple of notes on my experience:

- Reinstalling the transfer case was the most difficult part. I used my jack and made a wood platform to set the TC on (which I strapped to the jack with heavy duty zip ties), then wedged in a couple 2x4s to try and prop it up. This worked ok for removal but getting it back in was a pain for my son and I. If I had to do it over again I would rent or by a cheap tranny jack for this part. Oh yeah, I raised the vehicle 8" using ramps all around for clearance to get the TC out from under while still on the jack.

- I was planning on replacing the actuator shaft seals but when I got the actuator off the seals looked fine and I took the side cover off to look inside the actuator and it was bone dry inside so those seals are not leaking. The seals looked like they could be a pain to get off since you can't knock them out from the inside. Even though MandAtaco had no problem getting these seals out I decided to play it safe and pass on replacing them.

- One tricky spot was (thanks MandAtaco for the warning about this) when reassembling the TC halves you have to make sure the needle bearing stays in place. It is a split cage needle bearing (two halves) and during my first attempt one of the bearing halves moved out of place such that the case wouldn't go together all the way. My second attempt I was more careful and it went together fine. I have no idea why Toyota used a split bearing here. I thought those were typically used in situations where sliding the bearing off the end of the shaft is difficult because of shaft end clearance and pulling two halves off is much easier.

That's about all I had. If anyone is going to be doing this repair and has questions I would be glad to answer them.

 

[ARunner]

Excellent writeup! I have a buddy that recently picked up a GX470. We have 2 issues. One is a slight leak from the o-ring where the actuator fits in, and the other is the fact the actuator is sticky and only while wrapping on it with a hammer will it fully engage. I was dreading having to pull the entire transmission. This looks like a manageable task by comparison. Thanks again for the detailed writeup!

 

[Jagerzel]

Link to Transfer Case Tear down.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/tyroneboman/2011-11-15_232634_2005_toyota_4runner-4.pdf

This should fill in the gaps for anyone attempting this. My problem is that one of the shift rods fell out my actuator assembly after removing from transfer case. I'll be documenting later how I resolved this since its still in work.

 

[GLP]

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/tyroneboman/2011-11-15_232634_2005_toyota_4runner-4.pdf

This should fill in the gaps for anyone attempting this. My problem is that one of the shift rods fell out my actuator assembly after removing from transfer case. I'll be documenting later how I resolved this since its still in work.

The Toyota manual says you need to remove the transmission and transfer case together. But this is not necessary, you can remove the TC from the tranny with the tranny still on so all of the steps related to removing the tranny are not necessary. Also, this is for a complete TC overhaul so if you are just replacing the o-ring then a lot of the steps on the TC are not needed. I used this manual when replacing my o-ring and it was very helpful, I just had to make sure I knew what steps to cross out.

 

[762x51]

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/tyroneboman/2011-11-15_232634_2005_toyota_4runner-4.pdf

This should fill in the gaps for anyone attempting this. My problem is that one of the shift rods fell out my actuator assembly after removing from transfer case. I'll be documenting later how I resolved this since its still in work.

Intersted to hear about this. Mine did the same thing. I just put it back in and hoped for the best. After reinstalling I worked up the courage to try my T case lock and it worked as it should. However, I have not had the courage to try my 4 low as I think this is the shift rod that "feel out" during removal of the actuator.

 

[swapmeet]

Intersted to hear about this. Mine did the same thing. I just put it back in and hoped for the best. After reinstalling I worked up the courage to try my T case lock and it worked as it should. However, I have not had the courage to try my 4 low as I think this is the shift rod that "feel out" during removal of the actuator.

Any updates?

 

[swapmeet]

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/tyroneboman/2011-11-15_232634_2005_toyota_4runner-4.pdf

This should fill in the gaps for anyone attempting this. My problem is that one of the shift rods fell out my actuator assembly after removing from transfer case. I'll be documenting later how I resolved this since its still in work.

Same thing, any updates?

 

[Jagerzel]

Fail

I tried and tried to get the timing right. The 4hi (a.k.a. normal - since its a v8) works fine but the center diff lock and 4lo do not (thing just beeps at me). Since I'm not going offroading besides parking lot curbs I'm letting it be until a solution can be found or i get a new actuator assy. The only thing I haven't done is loosen the bolts holding it on to the transfer case and try it like many have. To me that is for a stuck actuator not a timing thing. I can't tell you how many times I tried - I had the transfer case split apart even and still could not. All that would happen is the rod would go to far. Then I had to take off the actuator, take apart the actuator assy and reset the rod and gear to where I thought it should be (based on photos from my original tear down). if you get a solution you will b the man. [MENTION=105591]swapmeet[/MENTION]

 

[Jagerzel]

The Toyota manual says you need to remove the transmission and transfer case together. But this is not necessary, you can remove the TC from the tranny with the tranny still on so all of the steps related to removing the tranny are not necessary. Also, this is for a complete TC overhaul so if you are just replacing the o-ring then a lot of the steps on the TC are not needed. I used this manual when replacing my o-ring and it was very helpful, I just had to make sure I knew what steps to cross out.

Just don't turn the truck on when the transfer case is out lol. Hyd fluid will spray out the tranny rear. Ask me how I know.

 

[swapmeet]

I tried and tried to get the timing right. The 4hi (a.k.a. normal - since its a v8) works fine but the center diff lock and 4lo do not (thing just beeps at me). Since I'm not going offroading besides parking lot curbs I'm letting it be until a solution can be found or i get a new actuator assy. The only thing I haven't done is loosen the bolts holding it on to the transfer case and try it like many have. To me that is for a stuck actuator not a timing thing. I can't tell you how many times I tried - I had the transfer case split apart even and still could not. All that would happen is the rod would go to far. Then I had to take off the actuator, take apart the actuator assy and reset the rod and gear to where I thought it should be (based on photos from my original tear down). if you get a solution you will b the man. [MENTION=105591]swapmeet[/MENTION]

So let me get this straight. Did you do the procedure the OP posted? Or did you try the short cut of messing with the actuator?

Just to clairify, I have a new actuator on the way. I'm trying to make sure I have everything I need.
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] I hate to have to call on you yet again, but I've searched the FSM's, and i'm still confused on what I need. As I mentioned, I have the actuator coming,
36410-60093
Also it was suggested that I get qty 3 of
90520-13002 (some snap ring that can break)

I'm still waiting to see if they have:
90301-56009 But i'm not sure what that does either. My plan was to figure it out when I started wrenching.

I'm mildly terrified by this process, but my actuator is shot... I have no 4Lo and no Center Diff Lock.

 

[GLP]

swapmeet,

I have done the OP procedure before so I think I can help.

905201-3002 is a snap ring that goes on the actuator shift rods. There are two on one rod and one on the other for a total of 3. You should have replacements in case they get banged up during removal. See attached removal picture and parts diagram (36311G).

90301-56009 is an o-ring that goes around the base of the actuator. It typically leaks so you want to replace this (36410N in parts diagram). It is also shown below in a pic from the OP.

Note: you may also want to get 2 new lock nuts that go on the two transfer case output flanges (90179-22016) and dust seals (90312-23001) for good measure.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

GLP pretty much covered what is needed, I would make sure you use a good FIPG and take your time when sealing the transfer case halves together. But replacement of the actuator is pretty straight forward (just don't turn on the key until everything is all put together and tightened.

 

[Brian3676]

GLP pretty much covered what is needed, I would make sure you use a good FIPG and take your time when sealing the transfer case halves together. But replacement of the actuator is pretty straight forward (just don't turn on the key until everything is all put together and tightened.

Thinking of doing this myself. How long does it usually take to do? I saw one post claiming a few hours, but I imagine it takes quite a bit more