Fixing the transfer case shift motor leak from within..

[tomsinamerica]

This will probably be my first and last post on T4R but i wanted to sign up to say a sincere thank you to [MENTION=96608]MandAtaco[/MENTION] for the write up.

I'm usually over on Tundras.com and my wife drove my old 04 4runner that was my hand me down. We just bought her a Lexus GX and it was time to say sorry to my old friend, the 4R.

It sold within a day and i had the money but before the guy could come back with plates to take it home, I noticed a couple of spots of oil. My good conscience wouldn't let me sell it with a leak, so I stumbled upon this thread. Freakin awesome - doesn't do it justice.

Lessons I learned along the way...

Jack stands instead of ramps for both safety & convenience. Putting it in neutral to remove driveshafts is very convenient

If you've never removed your driveshafts, they're going to need encouragement. A firm knock or three with a brass drift and a 5lb hammer against the Ujoint makes short work of this. Don't try to use less aggressive methods and don't hit the wings of the joint

Having bigger hands than average, I can see why FSM states to remove Transmission. Getting up in there to back out those last two bolts or remove the breather isn't easy, but it's doable.

If you're using a floor jack, make a cradle for it as some previous users have done. the TC has an odd center of gravity and non cradled support will give you a false sense of confidence.

Since i didn't have a T jack and I didn't want to make a cradle... the T case itself isn't that heavy and if you're of decent built, you can lift it out but it's sure nice to have a trolley to put it on as it feels a lot heavier when it's on your chest.

Follow the instructions to the letter to replace the seals. They are expertly written. I used the red FIP gasket from Toyota so that it would look stock.

Somehow, when lifting a TCase to reinstall, it felt a LOT heavier... you can do this instead of chest day at the gym.

Start to finish was about 7 hours. I wasted time being gentle to the driveshafts.

So thanks OP, you saved me $1,650 at a local shop and i'm sure the new owner will be happy that he has a super clean, dry, 04 4R v8 limited.

 

[alia176]

3 - I did not replace my output flange seal as mine wasn't leaking. If your is, its a great time to replace it! I Figured if mine started leaking down the road, it's not too bad to get at it to replace it then.

Hope that helps, feel free to ask me anything else, and I'd be glad to help out if I can.

MandAtaco

I hope this isn't a dumb question but is this a good time to replace the transmission output seal? I've circled the area where this seal inside the tranny would be located. I see a seal on the Tcase itself but I'm assuming there's also a seal at the Transmission side.

This seal prolly rarely leaks (i'm at 330k and no leaks) but once you remove the Tcase, is it prudent to replace this seal inside the tranny? Here's the seal but w/o a picture, I can't ascertain if it's the correct one. https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-...uZXImeT0yMDAzJnQ9c3BvcnQmZT00LTdsLXY4LWdhcw==

 

[alia176]

The oring design is also a failure in its own right. The gap is wide enough to put 2 orings in comfortably. So that's what I did on round 3. These orings by the way ended up being common ASA sized o-ring and can be had for pennies, it was size 035?, but I misplaced the package, but the Toyota ones are cheap enough to get 2.

The shaft seals are really not the culprit in this case, I had maybe 3 drops of gear oil visible inside the actuator on a 13 yo truck.

The key i think is to plug that unused hole in the case. It is slightly smaller than the stated seal ID of 15MM. Harwall sells blind 15mm seals similar to the old freeze plugs, and I drove 1 down into the unused hole. Not a drip in the 3 weeks since.

I'd like some confirmation please. The 2 O rings - are we talking about the large O ring? I'm assuming so since we are calling the shaft "seals" so there's only one other large O ring to play with.

Secondly, is this the hole in the picture that is being discussed as possibly being the culprit and can be plugged with 15mm ID blind plugs from Harwall.

 

[theladyviola]

I hope this isn't a dumb question but is this a good time to replace the transmission output seal? I've circled the area where this seal inside the tranny would be located. I see a seal on the Tcase itself but I'm assuming there's also a seal at the Transmission side.

This seal prolly rarely leaks (i'm at 330k and no leaks) but once you remove the Tcase, is it prudent to replace this seal inside the tranny? Here's the seal but w/o a picture, I can't ascertain if it's the correct one. https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-...uZXImeT0yMDAzJnQ9c3BvcnQmZT00LTdsLXY4LWdhcw==

I think I referenced this somewhere in this thread. Somewhere...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[alia176]

Real time help!!!

Hiya fellas,

I'm in the middle of this project currently and have some observations and questions.

First of all, the two shift forks didn't stay engaged to the sprockets that are inside the CDL plastic box. One of the shift fork shaft came out of the CDL box when I pried the Tcase apart. It went back inside the CDL box easy enough.

Then I notice I can slide the second shift fork shaft out of the CDL box too. I didn't think the CDL sprockets would allow the fork shafts to come out so easily so I'm a little puzzled by this.

So, I removed the CDL plastic box itself and it was FULL of 90wt oil and it's currently draining. However, what is a good spray solution for to me clean out the CDL box with? The motors and limit switches were drowning in 90wt for who knows how long.

I have brake parts, mass air cleaner and a can of electronic parts cleaner. The brake spray would do a better job of cleaning the gear oil, doubt it'll get inside the DC motors. Should I clean out the whole thing with brake parts, then use a can of electronic parts cleaner and use a straw to spray inside the motors? I don't know if this is possible or if there any holes that I can use.

Let me know your thoughts please.

Thanks.


ps, found out the shafts can fall out and simply putting them back in is fine, according to post #114

EDIT: I used the above method of using brake spray , then elec parts cleaner. That's about all I can do at the moment.

S
Major thanks to those who figured this out and gave their tips. Here's what I'd add:
* You need at least 18" worth of ratchet extensions, and one needs to be a wobble. I had to use multiple wobble extensions to get bolts out at awkward angles.
* The actuator shaft seals are very hard to remove. Make sure you have a strong pick or two. I had to make a trip to Harbor Freight because mine kept bending.
* Immediately replace the actuator seals after you remove them. With mine out, I had a shaft fall out and was worried about having to time the actuator. Fortunately I wiggled it back in and it worked fine.
* If you use the Toyota FIPG sealant, definitely use the metal key that comes with it to wind up the tube to force the stuff out. Replacing all three seals meant that I had to use FIPG in three places. The first time I didn't think the key was that important and I would just squeeze it out. It's WAY easier with the key!
* The seals that you have to pull rather than push are a pain - the input shaft seal and the transmission seal. I bought the cheap HF slide hammer seal remover, and it finally got the job done but not easily.

 

[canadian4runner_v8]

I just bought a 05 V8 Limited 4R...
Drove it from the seller's house.. put the trans into 4LO and the second I did that, noticed a large spill of "oil" once I drove into my place...

looks like its the transfer case leak - so I guess my question is.... if I don't plan on driving in 4lo (ever) do I need to get this fixed?

 

[ARunner]

If it's leaking, regardless as to the orientation of the shaft, and therefore the 4wd setting, it will leak. It will leak for a long time. I have a friend who has put 100k+ miles on his GS with a leak. We top it off every 2 or 3 oil changes.

I've noticed my "drip" has become more substantial since my last extended trip. This thread I've seen before and will be an excellent resource... Expecting I can pull it myself but hoping to let an expert split the case, do the surgery, and button it back up.

 

[SummitRunner]

Could someone please post a link to purchase the seal for the actuator/transfer case? The colonial link seems to be broken

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/redirect-to/?redirect=http://www.colonialseal.com/AS297.html

Edit:
I found this link, can someone confirm that this one works?

Shaft Oil Seals TC15x23x7

Thanks!

 

[utmba95]

Call Colonial or e-mail them. They were very helpful when I needed next day shipping.

 

[SummitRunner]

I just called Colonial, they're asking for $75 to ship overnight. Plus they're not in stock.

Any other source out there? Or maybe someone here has an extra one they don't need?

Thanks!

 

[GLP]

I just called Colonial, they're asking for $75 to ship overnight. Plus they're not in stock.

Any other source out there? Or maybe someone here has an extra one they don't need?

Thanks!

I got mine at O'Reilly.

 

[toyota_tx]

They are full of you know what. the tech is inexperienced with the model, and not up on reading the TSB's about the issue. Run away as fast as you can.

 

[toyota_tx]

Large O-Ring refers to the one on the Black Actuator as it slides into the transfer case housing. The groove it sits in is wide enough for 2 O-Rings, and that is what I put in, 2 O-Rings and an added dose of RTV. And yes, the open hole you circled in the picture is what I plugged by forcing a 15MM blind seal into it. Thinking back at the effort, a wad of JB Weld would have been easier, the hole is not quite large enough for a 15MM plug and kept twisting on me while try to press it in.

 

[toyota_tx]

I just bought a 05 V8 Limited 4R...
Drove it from the seller's house.. put the trans into 4LO and the second I did that, noticed a large spill of "oil" once I drove into my place...

looks like its the transfer case leak - so I guess my question is.... if I don't plan on driving in 4lo (ever) do I need to get this fixed?

we are discussing the seal failure on the actuator, the resulting leak is a few drips over time. If you have a puddle, it is another issue, like maybe the front driveshaft output seal blew out, or it has been overfilled or otherwise messed with. I'd degrease and pressure wash it all and pinpoint the leak. If it is a full time 4wd with switchable hi/Lo, then this must be fixed as the xfr case is always engaged and needs oil to operate. I'm not familiar with the other versions of this case, but would think they all have to have oil at all times.

 

[ARunner]

Thanks to MandAtaco for starting this thread and so many others who have contributed over the years. I addressed this poroblem. I didn't do the dirty work - I took it to a trusted local toyota expert for that. I did pull the transfer case myself. The tutorial, additional tips, and resources made this a really straightforward affair. Removal probably took me better part of 2 hours and putting it back closer to an hour to hour and a half. A couple of comments to add:

I didn't put the truck on jack-stands. I have a 3" lift and found this was adequate. It was... for everything except getting the transfer case and transmission jack out from under the frame rail. So I blocked the front tires and jacked the rear diff up until the rear tires were about 2" off the ground. This was enough clearance.

I do have RCI skids front to back and there wasn't a need to pull the gas-tank skid for me. I was glad because I remember what a PITA this was to put on years back. I was using a scissor-style transmission jack and I had plenty of clearance. Just had to pull the RCI crossmember/skid that protects the t-case.

Re-installing was done lying on my back on the creeper and I scooted/rolled the tcase onto my chest and then plugged it in. Ideally a helping hand would have helped me hit the hole more directly, but I don't think I damaged the seal on the back of the trans. Re-installation seemed like it required the front side of the tcase be angled up into the transmission because when level it makes contact with the body toward the rear. Based on this I went with the bench-press method and it seemed to work alright.

 

[razzman1]

So I also have the dreaded leak, and despite exercising the system once a month, my CDL no longer works. I plan on splitting the case and just replacing the entire actuator. Has anyone used this complete actuator from RockAuto? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2003,4runner,4.7l+v8,1418240,drivetrain,transfer+case+motor,10323

Based on the picture, it appears that it would already come with all of the seals, and this would be a simple 'remove and replace' after splitting the case. Would that be correct?

Thanks

 

[utmba95]

Based on my recent experience with synthetic motor oil leaking through the valve cover gaskets when conventional oil doesn't, I'm wondering how many of the problems with the transfer case leak are due to running synthetic gear oil.

 

[Captsolo]

Based on my recent experience with synthetic motor oil leaking through the valve cover gaskets when conventional oil doesn't, I'm wondering how many of the problems with the transfer case leak are due to running synthetic gear oil.

The only time I ever got a drop or two leak in our 14 year old 4 runner was with the semi synthetic oil change from 100% conventional 6 months ago, so I went back to conventional.

In our 2005 4runner the leak was about 10 drops the week after the one time semi synthetic oil change, and then those few drips stopped by themselves.

Now, only straight conventional 10W 40 here in Nassau Bahamas - where the temps never get below 62 degrees in the winter. hoto:

No semi synthetic any more, and glad I didn't try full synthetic. Why manufactures all use synthetic in their new cars is a mystery to me, as it surely will leak in time.

Change every 5000 miles.

145,000 miles... no rust except the bar under the radiator which I controlled with corrosion X spray (which turned it black).

 

[irishrunner]

I used LiquiMoly 75w-90 and I have no leak since the change. Must be an ingredient that helps the seals. Also have noticed that parking uphill added to the propensity to weep.

 

[sport2004]

The only time I ever got a drop or two leak in our 14 year old 4 runner was with the semi synthetic oil change from 100% conventional 6 months ago, so I went back to conventional.

In our 2005 4runner the leak was about 10 drops the week after the one time semi synthetic oil change, and then those few drips stopped by themselves.

Now, only straight conventional 10W 40 here in Nassau Bahamas - where the temps never get below 62 degrees in the winter. hoto:

No semi synthetic any more, and glad I didn't try full synthetic. Why manufactures all use synthetic in their new cars is a mystery to me, as it surely will leak in time.

Change every 5000 miles.

145,000 miles... no rust except the bar under the radiator which I controlled with corrosion X spray (which turned it black).

Interesting take. I always do a blend, 5W-30 warm and cold seasons, no problem yet, leak, etc.

I hope you are staying out of harms way down there.