Fixing the transfer case shift motor leak from within..

[BlackWorksInc]

Hi there. So I have a 2003 4runner V8 4x4 and also have the opportunity to also own the luxury version of the 4runner aka Lexus Gx470 4x4 V8 (more horsepower with the cost of less MPG, and lightning brakes for stopping. Much better than the 4runner imo. )


Anyways, back to topic. The drivetrain is the same as the 4runner with the same transfer case leak. I was reading online from a Lexus mechanic regarding the Lexus GX 470 and other few members there said that there was a much more simplified version than the one the OP did. The risk is it may damage the internals more if the actuator was forced out wrong or put in wrong.

Can anyone confirm that they have tried just taking the actuator out that was 3 bolts and 7 screws, and carefully sliding the actuator counterclockwise and using a prybar to take it off from the tcase? then simply change out the seals and O ring?

I want to do it this way. But OP's way is nice, but way more complex even though thats the way it should be done by the book. I don't want to do more work if its not necessary if there was a shortcut. Thanks.

Not sure what you're talking about in terms of the GX470... it's the exact same drivetrain save for a manual transfer case with a CDL actuator. If you have a V8 Sport 4Runner you have the same drivetrain and brakes as a GX470 minus the extra weight.

Not sure what you're talking about because the shift rod is clipped and bolted inside of the transfer case itself. Are you asking if you can just turn it and pry it out of the case without splitting it?

 

[theladyviola]

Hi there. So I have a 2003 4runner V8 4x4 and also have the opportunity to also own the luxury version of the 4runner aka Lexus Gx470 4x4 V8 (more horsepower with the cost of less MPG, and lightning brakes for stopping. Much better than the 4runner imo. )





Anyways, back to topic. The drivetrain is the same as the 4runner with the same transfer case leak. I was reading online from a Lexus mechanic regarding the Lexus GX 470 and other few members there said that there was a much more simplified version than the one the OP did. The risk is it may damage the internals more if the actuator was forced out wrong or put in wrong.



Can anyone confirm that they have tried just taking the actuator out that was 3 bolts and 7 screws, and carefully sliding the actuator counterclockwise and using a prybar to take it off from the tcase? then simply change out the seals and O ring?



I want to do it this way. But OP's way is nice, but way more complex even though thats the way it should be done by the book. I don't want to do more work if its not necessary if there was a shortcut. Thanks.

I haven't read of anyone successfully completing this without the timing being off. If anyone knows otherwise, please post. I'm still splitting my T case because I need to replace another seal as well. Plus I went ahead and got the T case overhaul gasket set so it'll all be nice and tight. I only want to do this once.


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[alia176]

I haven't read of anyone successfully completing this without the timing being off. If anyone knows otherwise, please post. I'm still splitting my T case because I need to replace another seal as well. Plus I went ahead and got the T case overhaul gasket set so it'll all be nice and tight. I only want to do this once.


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I'm sure people have asked if they can simply split the T-case in half and remove the rear extension housing in order to get to the O rings. I don't know the answer to that question. But, given that it isn't much of a bigger job just to drop the whole Tcase, that's the route i'll go. As stated above, an overhaul Tcase gasket set plus the transmission rear output seal would be a good way to "git 'er done" all at once. Then the OCD part of me is asking, why not drop the Transmission as well and change out the front input shaft seal as well as the engine main rear seal.

Where did you source the T case overhaul gasket set? From what I know of Toyota Tcases, you basically need a tube of the red FIPG, front and rear output shaft bearing seal and couple of the O rings for CDL linkages. Are there more parts?

 

[theladyviola]

I'm sure people have asked if they can simply split the T-case in half and remove the rear extension housing in order to get to the O rings. I don't know the answer to that question. But, given that it isn't much of a bigger job just to drop the whole Tcase, that's the route i'll go. As stated above, an overhaul Tcase gasket set plus the transmission rear output seal would be a good way to "git 'er done" all at once. Then the OCD part of me is asking, why not drop the Transmission as well and change out the front input shaft seal as well as the engine main rear seal.



Where did you source the T case overhaul gasket set? From what I know of Toyota Tcases, you basically need a tube of the red FIPG, front and rear output shaft bearing seal and couple of the O rings for CDL linkages. Are there more parts?

I got the seals referenced in the OP's post, the axle output shaft seal, picked up the 04362-35061 Gasket Kit Transfer at my local Toyota parts dept, along with a tube of the orange FIPG. I don't have any indication of any leaks near the tranny, so I'm not dropping it.


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[MandAtaco]

Hi there. So I have a 2003 4runner V8 4x4 and also have the opportunity to also own the luxury version of the 4runner aka Lexus Gx470 4x4 V8 (more horsepower with the cost of less MPG, and lightning brakes for stopping. Much better than the 4runner imo. )


Anyways, back to topic. The drivetrain is the same as the 4runner with the same transfer case leak. I was reading online from a Lexus mechanic regarding the Lexus GX 470 and other few members there said that there was a much more simplified version than the one the OP did. The risk is it may damage the internals more if the actuator was forced out wrong or put in wrong.

Can anyone confirm that they have tried just taking the actuator out that was 3 bolts and 7 screws, and carefully sliding the actuator counterclockwise and using a prybar to take it off from the tcase? then simply change out the seals and O ring?

I want to do it this way. But OP's way is nice, but way more complex even though thats the way it should be done by the book. I don't want to do more work if its not necessary if there was a shortcut. Thanks.

The Lexus and 4Runners have the same drive trains/brakes/etc. The differences are far as I understand are in the creature comforts.

Good luck pulling the shift motor apart, I've read of people attempting/doing it that way and honestly it seemed like a complete nightmare. These cases are SO easy to get out of the truck, it worth pulling and splitting on the bench. I'd venture to say you'd spend more time laying on your back under there trying to get all those little pieces out and back together, than I did just pulling the case.

I'm sure people have asked if they can simply split the T-case in half and remove the rear extension housing in order to get to the O rings. I don't know the answer to that question. But, given that it isn't much of a bigger job just to drop the whole Tcase, that's the route i'll go. As stated above, an overhaul Tcase gasket set plus the transmission rear output seal would be a good way to "git 'er done" all at once. Then the OCD part of me is asking, why not drop the Transmission as well and change out the front input shaft seal as well as the engine main rear seal.

You could in theory split the case on the truck, but honestly, it was so easy to pull, its worth doing it on the bench. Laying under your truck with gear oil dripping in your face sucks!

 

[fayewong]

The Lexus and 4Runners have the same drive trains/brakes/etc. The differences are far as I understand are in the creature comforts.

Good luck pulling the shift motor apart, I've read of people attempting/doing it that way and honestly it seemed like a complete nightmare. These cases are SO easy to get out of the truck, it worth pulling and splitting on the bench. I'd venture to say you'd spend more time laying on your back under there trying to get all those little pieces out and back together, than I did just pulling the case.




You could in theory split the case on the truck, but honestly, it was so easy to pull, its worth doing it on the bench. Laying under your truck with gear oil dripping in your face sucks!

Dude, I just noticed you are in Vegas too. you know anyone willing to help me fix mine? I am in Vegas too!

I figure I rather not try to break it if someone else knows how to do it.

Update : after further research. The actuator for the Lexus and 4Runners are different. The 4runner has two rods which makes it harder to take the actuator motor off itself. Since the Gx470 has only one rod. All they have to do is rotate it counterclockwise as they pull it back until the teeth on the rod frees itself from the gear in the black box. Will break a piece of plastic along the way too..

Wish they designed it to where you can easily detach the actuator to change out the oring while leaving the rods in place. But I don't think they expected the o ring or seals to have problems at the time since it was a new model for the 2003.

 

[demodayscom]

This whole thread has been one of the best I've ever come across.

My truck is a 2008 Tundra 124k, and the actuator is dying. My 4wd engagement has been acting up and I can hear that the actuator is working but requires me to be stopped, in N, and it won't just engage anymore..so I have to shift to D and barley let off the brake and a you can feel and hear 4wd engage with a solid clank. To go back to 2wd I have to do the exact same thing...Stop, shift to N, turn knob to 2wd, shift to D, creep forward 1mm, hear and feel Clank, sort of disengages and you can hear the actuator werrrrring and hear those cheap plastic gears trying to fully pull the rod back to fully disengage, lights are flashing...once the clank happens, lights off, no more actuator noise.

So from that I've concluded I need a new actuator. The OP looks exactly whats on my 08 Tundra but I'm still checking everything out to double check this post applies to my tundra.

I wanted to ask about installing the actuator.....some of the more recent comments on this thread talk about how a replacement actuator when bought new comes in the 4lo position. Would it make sense to shift the truck into 4lo before starting this whole procedure if I can shift into 4lo(I've been scared to try going into 4lo for fear of it not coming out)...

I've never been in a transfercase before and not sure if all those gears, chains and the 4wd shift forks, move around when you disassemble the TC case. I figured if things don't really move around maybe it would make sense to shift into 4lo before I start the whole project so that when the actuator is installed everything is already where it needs to be and hopefully eliminating any chance of clunking or noises that others have reported when they start the truck and work the 4wd knob?

Any thoughts on that?

Also what is the best way to break the seal to split the TC. Again some of the comments make it sound sorta fragile...is there a good tool or modified tool to easily and safely spit the TC open?

 

[fayewong]

The Lexus and 4Runners have the same drive trains/brakes/etc. The differences are far as I understand are in the creature comforts.

Good luck pulling the shift motor apart, I've read of people attempting/doing it that way and honestly it seemed like a complete nightmare. These cases are SO easy to get out of the truck, it worth pulling and splitting on the bench. I'd venture to say you'd spend more time laying on your back under there trying to get all those little pieces out and back together, than I did just pulling the case.

Spoke to a mechanic who says he can fix it for $120. The process is very simple that I should've thought about it myself. should take about 15 minutes or less to do. I need to await and see afterwards to see if it works.

 

[alia176]

Spoke to a mechanic who says he can fix it for $120. The process is very simple that I should've thought about it myself. should take about 15 minutes or less to do. I need to await and see afterwards to see if it works.

I'm all ears!

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[delucat2]

Both cars developed leaks

I went to a thrift store and bought a 9" pie pan and a couple of oil-zorb pads trimmed to fit in the bottom of the pan. Screwed this confunction to the skid plate with 2 self tapping screws. No more drips on the floor. I will monitor for oil level to see how fast it goes down.

2003 v8 213,0000 miles and runs like new.

My wife's v6 Accord's rear main developed a leak too...really? This was harder as there was nothing to screw a pan to. I rigged up a oil pad held in place with 12gauge copper wire. I will fabricate a metal strap that can actually hold this with a very shallow pan of some sort when I have the time.

My time for a diaper must not be far off.

 

[Cruiserfanatic]

The GX transfer cases are easier to replace just the actuator seals since they are a manual H-L set up. The trick is to time the actuator when disassembling, which I am not 100% sure how to do, but you do not need to split the transfer case to do so. I have friends that still work at Lexus, so I can get more info if you need it. The 4runner transfer cases HAVE to be disassembled in order to replace the actuator seals since they are electrically operated both 2-4 (V6) and H-L (V6 and V8), and in my experience, doing it in the vehicle without removing the entire transfer case is FAR more simple.

Hi there. So I have a 2003 4runner V8 4x4 and also have the opportunity to also own the luxury version of the 4runner aka Lexus Gx470 4x4 V8 (more horsepower with the cost of less MPG, and lightning brakes for stopping. Much better than the 4runner imo. )


Anyways, back to topic. The drivetrain is the same as the 4runner with the same transfer case leak. I was reading online from a Lexus mechanic regarding the Lexus GX 470 and other few members there said that there was a much more simplified version than the one the OP did. The risk is it may damage the internals more if the actuator was forced out wrong or put in wrong.

Can anyone confirm that they have tried just taking the actuator out that was 3 bolts and 7 screws, and carefully sliding the actuator counterclockwise and using a prybar to take it off from the tcase? then simply change out the seals and O ring?

I want to do it this way. But OP's way is nice, but way more complex even though thats the way it should be done by the book. I don't want to do more work if its not necessary if there was a shortcut. Thanks.

 

[alia176]

The GX transfer cases are easier to replace just the actuator seals since they are a manual 2-4 set up. The trick is to time the actuator when disassembling, which I am not 100% sure how to do. I have friends that still work at Lexus, so I can get more info if you need it. The 4runner transfer cases HAVE to be disassembled in order to replace the actuator seals since they are electrically operated both 2-4 and H-L, and in my experience, doing it in the vehicle without removing the entire transfer case is FAR more simple.

I'm not sure I understand this very well. The GX Tcase is an full time 4X4 Tcase which is what the V8 Runners have. So, I wouldn't call them a "manual" Tcase. I'd call the V6 Runner Tcases a "manual" tcase since they have part time rear wd ability.

 

[Cruiserfanatic]

Oops. I had my information wrong. The GX transfer cases are AWD, but the H-L shifter is a manual shifter instead of a switch on the dash like the 4runners. The V6 4runners are a "part-time" transfer case meaning they have a "2WD" setting also. So, the GX transfer case actuator only controls the center diff lock, and only has one shaft going into the transfer case, whereas the 4runners have 2 shafts and there is no way to disassemble these without splitting the transfer case to do so.

I'm not sure I understand this very well. The GX Tcase is an full time 4X4 Tcase which is what the V8 Runners have. So, I wouldn't call them a "manual" Tcase. I'd call the V6 Runner Tcases a "manual" tcase since they have part time rear wd ability.

 

[alia176]

Oops. I had my information wrong. The GX transfer cases are AWD, but the H-L shifter is a manual shifter instead of a switch on the dash like the 4runners. The V6 4runners are a "part-time" transfer case meaning they have a "2WD" setting also. So, the GX transfer case actuator only controls the center diff lock, and only has one shaft going into the transfer case, whereas the 4runners have 2 shafts and there is no way to disassemble these without splitting the transfer case to do so.

Ahhh, gotcha. So, the V8 black actuator box only has a single shaft going into the Tcase? Interesting.

 

[Cruiserfanatic]

Only on the GX's. ALL 4runners have 2 shafts.

Ahhh, gotcha. So, the V8 black actuator box only has a single shaft going into the Tcase? Interesting.

 

[TowMeOut]

Better Late Than Never

Wow, I sure could have used this thread 3 days ago.....

My '06 Sport has been shifting kind of slowly for a while but I hadn't realized how badly until a trip this week. I wanted to creep up a really rough dirt road leading to a campsite so I tried to get my rig into 4Lo. It first switched to 4Hi no problem and I drove a few yards then stopped, put it in neutral and tried to go into 4Lo. The 4Lo dash light flashed for a good 30 seconds but never went steady. Reading the little card on the visor said to basically "try again" if the shift didn't succeed. So, I ran the dash switch back and forth a few times hoping it would lock in.

With no luck I put it back into 4Hi and let off the brake....the truck crept forward in Low range????? Uh oh....that can't be good. I stopped, back to neutral and cycled the switch a few times with the same result. This time going all the way back to 2Hi. Woo Hoo....the 4Hi light went out so all is well, right?? Not so much.

I had my friend crouch down and look under the rig. The front shaft wasn't turning but it was certainly still in low range. Now I'm screwed!!! I was in the middle of nowhere in SC and needed to get home (10hr drive) the next day. Luckily I had just enough signal to get onto the forums here with my phone.

I spent hours scouring threads other than this one, many showing the guts of the actuator, wiring diagrams, and lots of other info but nothing that really answered my question. I tried all the tapping, swerving, shifting advice posed in other threads with no success. I pulled the battery for about 30 minutes hoping that the 4wd computer was just "confused" and that this might reset it. No luck there either.

In an act of sheer desperation because I had some experience with the innards of a tcase (installed 4:1 gear kit and 2Lo shifter in a Sami years ago) I knew I should be able to shift out of low range manually if I could only get to the rods. While laying on my back in a parking lot with the front up on a curb I pulled the guts out of the actuator, breaking several parts in my haste and generally rendering it destroyed. I finally got the gears out and the case removed then moved the Hi/Lo rod by had. Woo Hoo.....high range again.

I zip-tied the two rods together and prayed this would hold together on the ride home. Today I greased up the rods and reinstalled the actuator box. The t-case had puked a few ounces of oil on the ride home so I topped it off too.

So now I have a very, very 2WD 4runner. I was sick of the Hi/Lo/Lock lights flashing like mad on the dash so I just disconnected the 4wd computer behind the glove box. Of course that made the ECU really upset so there goes the traction/stability control....oh well.

Now....most of you are probably shaking your heads at my bonehead move. Few more than myself though. This is going to be a pretty costly mistake. I'm hunting e-bay and elsewhere for either a good V6 actuator or possibly a complete used tcase and actuator.

Why is there a difference between the V6 and V8 actuators?? Both do exactly the same thing, right? The exception must be an additional limit switch in the V6 model that tells the computer to engage/disengage the front diff (ADD).

When I finally get my hands on some replacement parts is there a better way to keep this from happening again? There seemed to be very little grease inside the actuator itself. I've read several threads about people drowning the assembly but mine was squeaky clean inside. I'm not 100% sure the actuator was "bad" before I broke it. Now I'm home and both motors turn just fine when connected to a battery (I guess I have spares). Does the front actuator use the same motor??

 

[theladyviola]

I really appreciate the original write-up and updates from MandA and the useful info that others have added. Let me add a couple of things from the perspective of a relative novice.

First, I attached schematics for an '03 V8 with part numbers of the items you will need and some you may need. The local dealer was very helpful figuring the parts I needed and getting them in the next day typically.

Second, here are a few thoughts as I went through the process.
1. I wish I had taken the advice of a previous poster and built a good cradle on top of the floor jack or procured a transmission jack. Instead I built a half-ass cradle and the xfer case rolled off and hyperextended my thumb (ouch!). I ended up building the cradle shown and lag-screwing it to my floor jack (see attached images; worked well.)
2. I was glad I had the 4R up on stands instead of ramps. That let me rotate the drive shafts later to line things up. I wish the jackstands had been taller so the case on top of the floor jack could have cleared the bottom of the vehicle. But I wasn't going to buy taller stands to avoid wrestling the case off the cradle while laying under the 4R.
3. I'm glad Toyota had marked the rear driveshaft and the rear differential with some pink paint. I read in the Haynes manual later that they need to be bolted back the same way or the shaft could vibrate.
4. Splitting the case was hard until I decided to use a bearing puller in reverse and wedged it between webs on opposite sides. I was fearful I would crack it but it popped open. I was so tempted to jamb a putty knife in the joint and risk scratching the sealing surfaces.
5. Cleaning the sealing surfaces was fast an easy with a brass wire wheel on my Dremel. Found them at Harbor Freight.
6. Had to destroy the 3 snap rings to get them off. Was worried I would have trouble getting the new rings on but they were a ...snap.
7. Looks like the case itself must be the same as the V-6 model because there are holes for three actuator shafts. I wonder if the third (empty) hole were not there if the leakage problem would be bad on these V-8's.
8. The O-ring was definitely failed; flattened around most of its circumference. It bothered me that there was a little play in the lineup of the actuator with the three bolts. I hope the O ring gap is even now.
9. During reassembly I thought I would be smart and do a couple of dry fits before applying the RTV. This turned into a scary moment when the bearing on the top of the shorter shaft got stuck in the larger half of the case. When I separated the halves the lower bearing pulled out of the lower half; that caused the chain to fall off. It took a few minutes to figure out how to put the chain back on.
10. I wish I had remembered to put the wiring harness bracket back on when I bolted the case back together. One of the case bolts had come out with galled threads; I didn't think to chase the threads in the case so when I screwed a bolt back into that bad socket it got very difficult to turn. But it went in all the way without breaking.
11. I am glad I went ahead and replaced the front drive shaft seal. The old one looked a bit ragged and it was not difficult to do.
12. Again, the cradle on the floor jack really help getting the transfer case back into the vehicle. It took several minutes of minute adjustments and jiggling but it went in with little effort. I cannot imagine how my helper and I could have manhandled the thing back into place. The driven shaft has to fit through a bearing in the transmission and the shaft is not tapered so lineup is critical.

This has been extremely helpful, especially the pages from the FSM. I've pulled the transfer case/actuator and splitting this weekend. My breather tubes were brittle and fell apart when I pulled the case so I'll be replacing them and also installing the transfer case gasket overhaul kit and actuator o-rings. Did you have any probs with your transfer case/tranny breather tubes?


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[fayewong]

This has been extremely helpful, especially the pages from the FSM. I've pulled the transfer case/actuator and splitting this weekend. My breather tubes were brittle and fell apart when I pulled the case so I'll be replacing them and also installing the transfer case gasket overhaul kit and actuator o-rings. Did you have any probs with your transfer case/tranny breather tubes?


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Whats the purpose of the breather tubes?

Also, everyone doesn't need to split the case to fix the O'ring. Just separate the actuator black box from the tcase and slap some toyota/lexus gasket sealer in there after you cleaned out the area with brake cleaner. Its basically a liquid version of a gasket. These applications are also similar to those used for gas appliances instead of using traditonal old teflon tape.

It will save you lots of time and money if you just do it this way. A fifteen minute job is better than a 4-8 hour job to seal a leak. Genius idea if you've asked me.

 

[TowMeOut]

Can you really get that sealant into the gap around the shift rods without totally removing the actuator housing? That seems to be the holy grail of 4th gen tcases is to repair the actuator (or even removing it from the shift rods) then getting everything back together and shifting properly, leak or no leak.

 

[Bob22222]

Whats the purpose of the breather tubes

I believe it's to keep water out if you find yourself in so deep. But the answer could be more exotic.