Glenn Goodlett
New member
The seatbelt tensioners will die in short order if they get wet. The coiled spring will rust. Ask me how I know.
Flooded my 4runner passenger side!
- Thread starter Carova Colton
- Start date
I second this. I can't see enough connectors failing from freshwater to cause a whole gaggle of dash lights to be on. A BCM or ECM probably got wet and failed.
Carova Colton
New member
Ok, so behind the glove box is an ECM that got wet. I sprayed everything down with WD and dried it all out. I hooked the battery to see what the dash lights would do now. They are stable like pre-start up but the information center says to put the shifter in park to start vehicle. The lever is in park. I had to manually depress the release (the little square on the bottom left side of the the shifter) to manually move into neutral to be towed but then moved it back once in the driveway. Does the ECM control this or is it another sensor like a crankshaft position or neutral safety switch? Or did I mess it up when I manually moved it for the tow? Is there something that I need to do to get it back to good?
flyrv9
New member
Like jp.vegas said, there is a shift selector switch on the side of the transmission (passenger side I think). It's subject to corrosion because it's not really sealed. One member here had a thread where he posted pics of the switch and the issues he had with removal. Access is a problem along with the corrosion that made the job harder. He took his switch off and cleaned it; which fixed his problem.
Carova Colton
New member
Thanks guys, I will crawl under the truck today to see if I can locate and clean it
Cheers
Cheers
flyrv9
New member
This switch is involved in some threads where people had a P0705 code. Here is one of them that shows the switch. There are a couple of others mentioned there as well.
NSS/Range Selector Switch - P0705 code
NSS/Range Selector Switch - P0705 code
Carova Colton
New member
I pulled the electrical connector and cleaned it with WD40 and let sit unplugged overnight hoping that the freezing temps don’t do more damage. Hopefully tomorrow it will work! Thanks for the thread
flyrv9
New member
Another option is to use dielectric grease in connectors to keep moisture out. You can get it on line or most auto parts stores. However, the real problem here seems to be inside the housing of the switch - so sealing it from moisture might be a little more challenging. It's pretty clear Toyota doesn't address off road issues where water is concerned. Another case in point is the rear diff vent that some people mod to raise it up to help prevent water ingestion. I think one of these mods is in the stickies. If you do a lot of high water driving, you might want to look into it. It's a cheap mod and relocates the vent to inside the fuel door.
Carova Colton
New member
Uggg snowing and freezing rain for the next few days! Just my luck!
Carova Colton
New member
Well, I dried out the connector used WD40 and compressed air to blow it out. I added some dielectric grease and.... drumroll. No change. The main ECU did get wet on the passenger side. I dried it out but could this be causing the problem?
Carova Colton
New member
Also, of note. I hooked up my code reading computer to see what OBD2 codes were being thrown and the computer had no communication with the main ECU
mountainbiker42
New member
I wonder if that ECU was damaged with water...Could Toyota connect to the truck with their fancy computer and confirm a bad ECU? I'm sure they'll wanna charge a few hundred bucks for that unfortunately.
Maybe you could pull one off a wrecked, identical 4runner at a junkyard and swap it? See what happens?
RustyAb
New member
I totally feel your pain. In December I got stuck on a river crossing and Had about 6 inches of water in the cabin. Luckily it was clean as can be mountain water.. no mud.
I immediately got back and pulled out the entire interior. Set up a few heaters and then 4 fans moving air. I vacuumed as much water out of the pads under the carpet. This was dry as it could be. Doorcards, console, seats carpet everything came out. Put it back together.
Next few weeks I got neutral safety switch issues, crankshaft position sensor failure, rear hatch actuator failed. Now that I have all that fixed, I’m trying to diagnose a small current draw on my oem circuits (all my auxiliary stuff is disconnected) that means I have to boost my rig every morning.. which sucks cause it’s -30 now. After 2 days of that I threw a battery maintainer on but my battery now is too weak and I’m boosting it anyways every day...
I immediately got back and pulled out the entire interior. Set up a few heaters and then 4 fans moving air. I vacuumed as much water out of the pads under the carpet. This was dry as it could be. Doorcards, console, seats carpet everything came out. Put it back together.
Next few weeks I got neutral safety switch issues, crankshaft position sensor failure, rear hatch actuator failed. Now that I have all that fixed, I’m trying to diagnose a small current draw on my oem circuits (all my auxiliary stuff is disconnected) that means I have to boost my rig every morning.. which sucks cause it’s -30 now. After 2 days of that I threw a battery maintainer on but my battery now is too weak and I’m boosting it anyways every day...
vdog2000002
New member
If you can't sort it out you might be able to get it repaired or replaced through your auto insurance. This would be a claim on your comprehensive coverage. Check your policy to confirm that you have the coverage before calling to make a claim. Comprehensive claims generally don't increase your insurance rate. I obviously don't know your situation (loan on the vehicle or not, insurance coverage, the desire to not get a new auto loan, etc.), but this might help you move twords a solution quicker.
david05111
New member
My biggest fear when off-roading or going through water is getting water in the floorboards. I avoid water holes I could probably easily traverse as a result. Just isn't worth it to me.
Best of luck man
Best of luck man
Carova Colton
New member
I’m with Rusty at this point. I think I need to swap out that computer and neutral safety switch. Hope I don’t have the same cascading casualties that you have. Trying to get one that fits my budget.
waypoint
Member
The ECM connectors do not have water-resistant seals on them, as do models where the ECM is mounted under the hood. Submerging the ECM would cause pins to short and blow components on the printed circuit board. Replacement is the next step.
edit: if it works like other Toyotas, you can grab a junkyard one, sync the immobilizer using a paperclip jumper, and that will get it running.
Immobilizer sync: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQXgbSUQ0Yo
Used ECM: Engine ECM Electronic Control Module Right Hand Dash Fits 15 4 RUNNER 988414 | eBay
edit: if it works like other Toyotas, you can grab a junkyard one, sync the immobilizer using a paperclip jumper, and that will get it running.
Immobilizer sync: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQXgbSUQ0Yo
Used ECM: Engine ECM Electronic Control Module Right Hand Dash Fits 15 4 RUNNER 988414 | eBay
Last edited:
03_4x4Runner
Senior Member
I would not use WD40 for this. You need electrical contact cleaner.
Carova Colton
New member
Ok, I pulled the passenger side ECU computer. Took it apart and cleaned it with soap and hot water and a toothbrush. Dried it off with both and compressed air and let sit with dehumidifier. Put it back together with dielectric grease and it seems to be working properly again. Going to pull the plugs to crank over to ensure there is no water in the engine before the moment of truth. We have had 7 days of straight freezing rain and cold as hell temps. Sorry but I have not been working on this every day.
