Flooded my 4runner passenger side!

Ok, I pulled the passenger side ECU computer. Took it apart and cleaned it with soap and hot water and a toothbrush. Dried it off with both and compressed air and let sit with dehumidifier. Put it back together with dielectric grease and it seems to be working properly again. Going to pull the plugs to crank over to ensure there is no water in the engine before the moment of truth. We have had 7 days of straight freezing rain and cold as hell temps. Sorry but I have not been working on this every day.

Hey man, you've been through the wringer but this is good news. Let us know if the truck cranks over.
 
I had this issue with my 4th gen bush wagon. For some reason I think I am a submarine and cannot stay out of the water. My OBD port was not communicating and my 4runner would turn over but not start. I also had some lights on the dash. Swapping out the computer fixed everything.
 
Ok, pulled the plugs to kick out any water that may have hydro locked the engine and click. Started clicking but no turnover! Using the reset to try to reset the ECU. I bought a junkyard ECU that is being shipped next week. Maybe a starter issue too. Super awesome.
 
Well I manually cranked over the engine with the crankshaft pulley nut and of course kicked a bunch of water out of my engine. Hopefully I didn’t bend a rod, but that wouldn’t surprise me at this point.
 
Also of note, I tried to do the ECU reset with the 4 and 13 pin jump and now the starter doesn’t even give me a click and the electronics restart when I hit the push start. Uuugggh
 
Sorry to hear. I guess two options are take to independent toyo mechanic or call insurance company.

These trucks go through water all the time. I suppose there is a fine line between OK and not OK water levels. Possibly somebody can explain at what point it is too much water.
 
I also tore the wires out of the sensor that is on the valve cover just below the #4 cylinder. The wires to the coil pack and the sensor were taped together and of course I didn’t cut them apart. When I pulled the plug out of the coil pack I jerked the plug back and ripped those small wires clean out of the sensor. I don’t even know what the sensor is. Any help would be appreciated. I will have to buy a new wire harness for it I guess.
 
Woke up this morning and got a small hose to blow out the cylinders then went to rotate the pistons with the crankshaft pulley and it will now only turn a 1/4 turn in each direction until it stops and won’t move. Is this a broken ring maybe?
I can’t take it to insurance because it was a salvage title vehicle that I got and repaired. Insurance would give me nothing for it. Is there any way to check and repair without pulling the engine?
 
Woke up this morning and got a small hose to blow out the cylinders then went to rotate the pistons with the crankshaft pulley and it will now only turn a 1/4 turn in each direction until it stops and won’t move. Is this a broken ring maybe?
I can’t take it to insurance because it was a salvage title vehicle that I got and repaired. Insurance would give me nothing for it. Is there any way to check and repair without pulling the engine?

If the engine was running when it took water into the cylinders, it's done. One or more connecting rods bent, valvestem(s) bent is the usual outcome. I've seen a GM engine deform a connecting rod during cranking after a fuel injector stuck open while shut down, filling the cylinder with raw gasoline which, like water, is also not compressible.

If the engine wasn't running, you likely formed a rust ridge on the cylinder wall(s) while the engine sat. The rings hit this while you're turning the crank, and stop. A soaking with Marvel Mystery Oil in all cylinders might help loosen it up.
 
Ok, miscue there. I removed the serpentine belt and I can rotate 360 degrees and seems fine. Used a compressor to blow out the muck and water and yes there was some in 3 cylinders. Now going to do a compression check on each cylinder and wait for the new ECU to arrive.
 
Here is a pic of the sensor I destroyed.
 

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Can’t really do a compression check without the engine turning over so will have to wait.

Get oil into the cylinders to prevent rust ASAP. A can of storage fogging oil from the parts store is the ticket, just stick the straw into each spark plug hole and give a good ~2 second shot. Then rotate the crank at least one full revolution and do it again.
 
Man, super sorry to hear about this. I read this whole thread yesterday and it is a total bummer. As was posted earlier, getting some oil into the cylinders right away to keep the rust down is important. Also getting those electrical connections blown out and dry before they start to corrode.

While not to this extent, I had some water damage to a an old Pathfinder I had and I think you really need to get any interior parts with foam out right away and either write them off as gone or get them drying. Mine happened in the summer so I ripped out the carpet and dried them in the sun for a few days. Seats, try and get them into an environment with a good strong dehumidifier to try and get that water out. The mold starts to set in very quickly.

Even with all this, there was a slight mold smell in it all the time and on really humid or rainy days it proper stuck in there. I always found that the windows fogged up at the slightest bit of humidity which makes me think I never got it dry to begin with.

As others have mentioned, might want to at least check with the insurance company. Another option if you can't get insurance involved is to maybe declare it a loss and part it out to recoup some of your costs. That's the "nuclear option" though and I hate even suggesting it.

Whatever you end up doing, hope it works out.
 

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