Fuse for lights question

[GearJunkie88]

I'm going to install a light bar using the method in this thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/164966-led-light-bar-install-2014-toyota-4runner.html

Here's the wiring diagram:

Everything is straight-forward except the fuse from the battery to the relay. The diagram says "fuse rated for light amp draw". The lights I have are: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAR0S20/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. The Amazon page says 2A @ 12V. Does that mean I need a 2 amp fuse? Sounds like a pretty low-amp fuse. I just want to make sure I use the right fuse.

Thanks for the advice!

 

[Zapper]

You are correct. The lights you are going to install draw very few amps, so you can get away with a 5 amp fuse. I don't think they come much smaller. Also, if its 2amps per light your covered without going overboard with a larger fuse.

 

[007Tacoma]

Agreed. The 5A fuse should be sufficient. I am using 3A fuses for some of my auxiliary interior lights as extra protection. Already made a trip to Colorado and back with no issues.

 

[GearJunkie88]

Thanks! If I decide that these lights don't put out enough light, I could replace them later and just use a fuse with a higher rating. The lights were a Christmas present and they were cheap.

 

[e60ral]

so it won't really apply in this situation because the draws are so low, but for future projects the next step would be to make sure your wires were sized to the fuse and not the load. So for example if you had a 12A load and used a 20A fuse, you would want to make sure your wire was rated for 20A

 

[JSparky]

You're going to want to put that fuse as close to the battery as possible also, not next to the relay.

 

[flyrv9]

Well it depends on how many of those lights (in your link) you are going to use and how they are wired (series vs parallel) They are each rated 27W at 12V. That's 2.25 amps per light not 2. Then you have a light bar in your drawing. Is that bar made up of those individual lights in the link? Either way the load rating of the wire and all the circuit components should be pretty close to each other. Then you can fuse slightly higher to prevent the fuse from blowing due to power on current surge and also prevent the wire from being your fuse!

 

[GearJunkie88]

Then you have a light bar in your drawing. Is that bar made up of those individual lights in the link?

Thanks for the good advice. I found that diagram in another thread. Where it shows a light bar in the diagram, I'm going to replace it with my 2 round lights, probably wired in parallel.

 

[flyrv9]

You're welcome. Ok 2 lights in a parallel circuit. Current in the branches of a parallel circuit add to the total. So, 2 x 2.25amps = 4.5A total current draw. If one light fails (opens) current draw will drop by half. If you have a short, current will increase and blow the fuse. So I figure a 5A fuse should be fine even adding a little more current draw with the resistance of the wire. That should leave a little cushion for surge which should be minimal. Make sure you make good, clean, solid, waterproof connections and make (and test) good grounds.

 

[GearJunkie88]

Many thanks to everyone for the great advice. I installed the spot lights and they work perfectly. I really can't believe how unbelievably bright they are!

I have an "issue" with the Air OnBoard switch and perhaps someone could give some insight. I followed the wiring diagram in my first post. This was originally posted by [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION]. The spot lights are wired to turn on with the headlights, but only if the AOB switch is depressed. This functionality works correctly. The AOB switch has 2 "panels". The top panel has an icon and the bottom panel has the words that label the switch. When I turn on my headlights, the dash lights turn on and the bottom panel of the AOB switch illuminates (correct functionality).

When I turn on the highbeams using the stalk controller, the top panel of the AOB switch illuminates. It does this regardless of whether the AOB switch is "on" (depressed -- when I really want the spots to turn on) or "off" (when I don't want the spots to turn on). In the "off" position, the spots don't turn on (correct functionality), but the AOB switch illumination is on which makes me think the spots are on (confusing functionality). Is there any way to change this behavior? I would like the top panel of the AOB switch to only turn on if the switch is in the "on" position and the highbeams have been turned on, which also turns on the new spot lights.