FX-R Projector Retrofit Write-Up (as experienced by SQ.MD)

SQ.MD

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Finally! SWEET MOTHER of GOD! I am done!!!!!!!!!! :party:

Here are some final pictures of the retrofit. Just finished and mounted the lights (will aim them tomorrow since I have an ER shift in 6 hours).

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I will complete a write-up for this since I took an enormous amount of pictures during this project. I hope they help anyone who starts this arduous journey!
 
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To be honest, I hoped it would look like that! Great work man! You gotta post some daytime shots of them on the truck too! :trophy:
 
wow those look so sick
thanks man!

To be honest, I hoped it would look like that! Great work man! You gotta post some daytime shots of them on the truck too! :trophy:
Yeah I will get some daytime photos soon right after I clean the truck. I'm glad the lights turned out to your liking lol

wow looks great!!! what shroud? sorry, ill be patient and wait for the write-up.
I used E55-R shrouds but I customized (lol oh yeah!) them so I could create an Iron Man type shroud (idea by GottabeTRD)

Here is a link to where I got the shrouds from (were part of the PnP upgrade Kit) E55-R - Projector Shrouds from The Retrofit Source Inc

great job! I dont want your pictures for your write up to go to waste but there is a write up already in this: THREAD (6th post down)

Another HID Bi-xenon Retrofit Install Write-up *PICS*

Let's see some cutoff pics!

I figured another write-up won't hurt since some are more detailed than others. Some ppl need that oneeee photo to share where exactly something goes or how it was done while others just need a rough template...I'm shooting to create a write-up for those that need that extra attention

SQ did you buy a seperate headlights to work with?

Why yes I did. I had the nonclear 97 headlights so doing a proper retrofit required better 99 clear headlights


and thanks for all the comments guys!
 
great job! I dont want your pictures for your write up to go to waste but there is a write up already in this:

Diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks as they say. Along the way in any project you find an easier way of going 'bout doing things easier for you, maybe the OP found something different he'd like to share that may benefit the next projector retro-fitter.

When I did a write up on the FMU on Yotatech, i knew quite a few guys had already done it and wrote up about it, I studied all they're methods and followed some but at the same time learned a few tricks on my own and applied it along the build.

Just saying the more reference, pics or not, the better.:thumb3::peace:
 
Just saying the more reference, pics or not, the better.:thumb3::peace:

what that guy said :thanks:

Anyway, I messed with the headlights today to get a semi-correct cutoff because what I had was all over the place! Still not perfect but too tired to fully remove headlights and adjust. I used my sisters 2011 Camry for comparison when I was done playing with the headlight. Some fruits of my lazy half-hearted labor! Enjoy:

the blue pieces of tape on the garage door are basically points of reference from my sisters Camry. As you can see, still not perfect but getting there. Also note that there is a huge slant/depression infront of my garage- that is why the cutoff appears so low.
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^ taken with black magics on

this sort of gives you a good idea of how wide the beam/cutoff is from FX-R projectors (im definitely way more than 25 feet away)
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sorry for cellphone pictures...will post legit photos after I wash the truck
 
dont you just love the output of the projectors? its seriously like night and day from having just a Pnp hid kit, or even just halogens. The 5000K is a perfect color too

you sir pulled of one of the harder retrofits for your 1st attempt you have some skill man! :trophy:
 
uhh...I'm not sure if I understand what you are referring to? sorry.

Are you referring to the shroud? Then yes, I did mod it.

He means did you add a spacer, to the bulb or lens to change how far the bulb sits from the lens to give you more color at the cutoff.


I would say that he didn't since he doesn't have much color(blue/purple) at the cutoff.
 
its a small metal ring that you take the projector lens out and put the ring behind it and replace the lens and cap to space the lens a few millimeters farther out to give more purple and color in the cutoff.
 
He means did you add a spacer, to the bulb or lens to change how far the bulb sits from the lens to give you more color at the cutoff.


I would say that he didn't since he doesn't have much color(blue/purple) at the cutoff.

oh thanks for the clarification

its a small metal ring that you take the projector lens out and put the ring behind it and replace the lens and cap to space the lens a few millimeters farther out to give more purple and color in the cutoff.

well I did include this metal ring inbetween the projector and the bulb when I put the bulb into the projector. It came with the kit. About as thick as two washers.
 
Write-Up (removing black housing and clear glass lens)

First day I got my 99 clear headlights (from Car Parts, Truck Parts, Auto Accessories: Just Great Parts Cheap At CarParts.com) and my TRS PnP upgrade kit (PNP Upgrade: Bi-xenon - Complete Retrofit Kits from The Retrofit Source Inc) with Miromoto 5000K D2S bulbs, FX-R projectors, and E55-R shrouds.

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*** Since I purchased another set of headlights, I finished this projector over a course of several days (only working on it for 2-3 hours at a time)

First you have to separate the black housing from the actual headlamp. To do this, you must detach the four anchors holding them together. Of the four, two are white knobs (used for headlight alignment), one is a square anchor/clip, and one is a spring.

First remove the spring by using needle nose pliers to basically grab one end of the spring, pull it up out of its hooked edge and gently place it entirely inside the hole.

Once the spring is removed, use the same needle nose pliers to squeeze the opposing ends of the square clip (yellow circle on picture below) and push it through the opening. This shouldn’t require much force so don’t over do it because you might break the clip.

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Now you have removed two of the four things holding the black housing to the headlamp. All that is left to remove now are the two white alignment knobs (green circles in the picture above). There are several ways you can do this but I found the easiest method to be simple removing the bolt that goes through the white knob from the threaded housing. For greater understanding, it might be best to explain how these knobs actually align the headlights. So these white knobs, when turned clockwise, pull the bolt (attached to the actual headlamp) closer to the black housing (thus the headlight comes closer to the housing). One knob adjusts the horizontal alignment and one adjusts the vertical alignment. If the headlight is placed correctly on the floor and you are looking at it from the back, the top left knob adjusts the light vertically and the bottom right adjusts the light horizontally. So the greater the distance between the headlamp and the black housing, the lower and more inward (to the center of the light beam) the light will be alignment. Sooo now we go back on how to get these suckers apart.

Like I said, it’s easiest to just increase the distance between the headlamp and the black housing by turning the white knobs counterclockwise. This increases the gap between the headlamp and the black housing. Then there will come a point where the bolt will basically disconnect from the black housing. As the bolt is near becoming unscrewed from the housing, you will feel greater resistance so be careful. When doing this for the first headlight, I used pliers to turn counterclockwise. However, I later just began using a drill with a 10 bit. Whatever you feel more comfortable with. Note: when turning these knobs counterclockwise, do a little on each knob (going back on forth) so one isn’t super extended while the other isn’t.

Initially the distance between the housing and the headlamp will be this much:
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However after you counterclockwise turn the knob, the distance will increase (as shown in the picture below) and the bolt will come undone from the black housing.
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Now you should have the bolts separated the black housing will be separate from the actual headlamp. Here is a picture of how the headlamp should look. The green circles are where the white knobs were attached to, the white circle is the spring, and the yellow circle is the clip/anchor where we used needle nose pliers to push it through the housing:
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Here is a picture of the black housing (the side which faces the headlamp. The green circles are where the bolts screw, the white circle is where the spring clips to, and the yellow circle is the square hole the clip attaches to:
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Now you must remove the electrical connector which attached to the headlight (just pull it off as there are no clips to squeeze) It is the red circled in the picture below. After that connector is removed, take the rubber protective boot off.
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Once that stuff is removed, undo the spring clip holding the bulb to the headlamp and remove the bulb. Once I did this, I put the rubber boot, the bulb, and the connector back together just so I have it as a unit. This is what it should look like now:
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Now remove those two rubber hoses which connect to two holes in the headlamp. Now go ahead and use a screw driver to remove the three screws on the back. One screw holds the clip (which holds the bulb) and the other two screws hold the chrome reflector inside the headlamp. These screws are circled in orange and in the picture, the screw which holds the clip is already removed:
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Once the screws are removed, I took the chrome reflector out. This required some finagling and totally screwed the reflector up. But I was not concerned since projectors don’t need this  Some people don’t choose to do this until the clear glass is removed from the headlamp but I did it anyway. Here is a picture of the crippled reflector:
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Now remove the four clips which attach to the glass and the headlamp (two of the areas where these clips attach are circled in black in the picture below. This is what the back of the headlamp should look like after everything is removed:
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Place all the screws n **** into a sandwich bag just to keep track of everything later:
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Alright, now it’s time to remove the clear glass lens from the headlamp. First, prebake your oven to 350 degrees. While that is happening, I took a cookie tray and placed some aluminum foil on it. Then I placed the headlamp on the tray (look at picture below). DO NOT place it on the glass lens because you might screw up the glass. Also, be sure to have a fire extinguisher incase **** gets sketchy!
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When the oven sounds and it is at 350 degrees, place the headlamp inside for seven minutes. This was enough time for my headlamp to melt the seal and make the process fairly easy:
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Here is a video of me removing the clear glass lens from the headlamp. I used a utility knife and a Philips crew driver…oh and also some fruity oven mits:

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/2HTLPUdMs5M" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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