FYI. $8 mod. Rear seats come out with quick release pins for 6-10" more cargo length.

[litebrite]

$8 mod. Rear seats come out with quick release pins for 6-10" more cargo length.

On 4Runner models that have 1 back row seats only, your seats don't fold with out flipping up the bottom seat forward against the driver and passenger seats first left sitting in the upright position. This blocks 6-10" of cargo length area.

Solution!!!
IF SOMEONE CAN REMOVE THE BOLTS... edited... 2/25. I was not able to remove the 4 bolts as of yet. Could be welded in place. Sorry.

1. Pop off plastic floor anchor covers from 2nd row seats.
2. Remove all 4 forward seat bolts connecting to floor.
...(seats are removable now)
3. Replace with hitch-pins same width at bolt.
Done.

With pin in place seats function same as factory. Remove pin to release seats completely if more length is needed. The seats can then slide forward against the front seats over the floor mats while the rear seats fold over them now. So you don't even need to remove them from the vehicle, just slide them forward to the floor mats.

Total cost from hardware store $8. You can use any quick release type pin that is as strong as factory bolt. I chose the one below.

http://i48.tinypic.com/2eb9tfq.jpg

http://i48.tinypic.com/2njjyp1.jpg

http://i47.tinypic.com/qzg9pc.jpg

http://i45.tinypic.com/xfxdl0.jpg

Then if you want, you can replace plastic floor anchor covers (I choose to) and drill holes for the hitch pin to go through. Keeps it clean looking.

 

[doodman]

On 4Runner models that have 1 back row seats only, your seats don't fold with out flipping up the bottom seat forward against the driver and passenger seats first left sitting in the upright position. This blocks 6-10" of cargo length area.

Solution!!!
1. Pop off plastic floor anchor covers from 2nd row seats.
2. Remove all 4 forward seat bolts connecting to floor.
...(seats are removable now)
3. Replace with hitch-pins same width at bolt.
Done.

With pin in place seats function same as factory. Remove pin to release seats completely if more length is needed.

Total cost from hardware store $8. You can use any quick release type pin that is strong. I chose the one below.

http://i48.tinypic.com/2eb9tfq.jpg

nice find! now i've got to say that i've been dying to use this emoticon so here goes:

:worthless

(not really worthless but i always wanted to use this graphic lol)

 

[Jtraskell]

On 4Runner models that have 1 back row seats only, your seats don't fold with out flipping up the bottom seat forward against the driver and passenger seats first left sitting in the upright position. This blocks 6-10" of cargo length area.

Solution!!!
1. Pop off plastic floor anchor covers from 2nd row seats.
2. Remove all 4 forward seat bolts connecting to floor.
...(seats are removable now)
3. Replace with hitch-pins same width at bolt.
Done.

With pin in place seats function same as factory. Remove pin to release seats completely if more length is needed. The seats can then slide forward against the front seats over the floor mats while the rear seats fold over them now. So you don't even need to remove them from the vehicle, just slide them forward to the floor mats.
Total cost from hardware store $8. You can use any quick release type pin that is strong. I chose the one below.

http://i48.tinypic.com/2eb9tfq.jpg

http://i48.tinypic.com/2njjyp1.jpg

Then if you want, you can replace plastic floor anchor covers (I choose to) and drill holes for the hitch pin to go through. Keeps it clean looking.

If you leave the lower seats in the car, then fold the seat backs over them as you indicate, does the seat backs lay flush with the rest of the cargo floor or? Thanks for the great Idea.

You mentioned using a "stong" hitch pin. Thats good. In fact, I would suggest that one should find the strongest hitch pins you can get, those bolts connecting the back seat to the floor board are usually an important part of the seat belt-safety design of the back seat system in any car.

 

[ckon]

I'm a little confused here

Are we talking about standard second row seats or second row in a third row equipped 4R? Cuz I looked at mine (standard two row) and don't see anything like what's described. I pulled off the hinge cover and my seats pivot on welded pins secured with E-clips. Nothing can be replaced without major reworking. Can anyone straighten me out? Thanx.

 

[litebrite]

Are we talking about standard second row seats or second row in a third row equipped 4R? Cuz I looked at mine (standard two row) and don't see anything like what's described. I pulled off the hinge cover and my seats pivot on welded pins secured with E-clips. Nothing can be replaced without major reworking. Can anyone straighten me out? Thanx.

Yea, not so easy! I thought the bolt would come right out. I posted this as I was working on it. Stuck removing the bolts..... I'm going to see if the other end doesn't come free.

 

[litebrite]

I have a print out from the tech manual now. Doesn't show that these are removable. May have to be cut to remove. Hold off. Let me play with this a little longer. Good idea, but may not work easily now.

I removed the main floor bolts on one seat cushion and brought in inside to make it easier to work on. Trying to find a way to remove factory side pins.

 

[ckon]

Yea, not so easy! I thought the bolt would come right out. I posted this as I was working on it. Stuck removing the bolts..... I'm going to see if the other end doesn't come free.

Well, now I'm totally confused! Did it work for you or not? The part I think you're talking about is not a bolt, it's a pin - a hinge pin. Welded in place on one end with a retaining clip on the other. You keep mentioning a bolt, so I can't figure out what you're talking about. Pics please? Maybe we're talking about two totally different areas of the hinges?

 

[litebrite]

I can't remove the plastic leg covers to see if there is a nut on the other end of the pin. My back seats are getting leather next week. I'll have the leather installers remove the plastic when the seats are exposed to see if there is a nut there or not.

If there is a nut, then drilling a hole in the plastic is simple to remove it. If not, idea won't work. Give me about 2 weeks to get to the bottom of this.

 

[ckon]

I can't remove the plastic leg covers to see if there is a nut on the other end of the pin. My back seats are getting leather next week. I'll have the leather installers remove the plastic when the seats are exposed to see if there is a nut there or not.

If there is a nut, then drilling a hole in the plastic is simple to remove it. If not, idea won't work. Give me about 2 weeks to get to the bottom of this.

Assuming we're talking about the hinge pin, you can see the weld even with the cover on it.

 

[bradj]

Even if you can get these bolts out I'd be very careful about what you replace them with. Do you know the shear strength of what you are replacing them with? Just because metal "feels" strong doesn't make it so. Please be careful you are moding a major safety feature of your car. Especially if your putting kids in the backseat and something happened.....:nono:

 

[litebrite]

Even if you can get these bolts out I'd be very careful about what you replace them with. Do you know the shear strength of what you are replacing them with? Just because metal "feels" strong doesn't make it so. Please be careful you are moding a major safety feature of your car. Especially if your putting kids in the backseat and something happened.....:nono:

Yea, does make sense. I can mount a metal pin of a strength rated metal. They make pins that are used to connect heavy chains and list strength on them.

Assuming we're talking about the hinge pin, you can see the weld even with the cover on it.

I noticed the weld, but then saw it was painted over and had plastic spacers on there. The pin is narrower than the weld on my seats. Looks like it was pushed through the weld support and leads me to believe there is a way to remove it. Unless it was also welded in place on the opposite side....

The pin doesn't spin, might be welded from the back. I really need to get the plastic leg cover off to see what's behind it.

I tried really hard to remove the plastic, but can only pull down so far, can't unhook it, may have to release the molding from the seat first? I didn't want to break it, so I'll let the installers remove it when they put leather on hopefully next week.

I'll still be looking for a way to remove the plastic from the legs. If I do I'll post earlier.

 

[ckon]

Yea, does make sense. I can mount a metal pin of a strength rated metal. They make pins that are used to connect heavy chains and list strength on them.




I noticed the weld, but then saw it was painted over and had plastic spacers on there. The pin is narrower than the weld on my seats. Looks like it was pushed through the weld support and leads me to believe there is a way to remove it. Unless it was also welded in place on the opposite side

The plastic pieces are bushings to make the hinge smoother and quieter and are mounted in the stationary part of the hinge. The pin slides into the bushings and clips into place. It would take some serious re-engineering to make the pins removable and then it could compromise the safety aspects of the hinges.

 

[litebrite]

The plastic legs are anchored in to the seat. The carped board has to be removed to access the leg moldings. I don't know how difficult that's going to be, so I'm going to wait since the leather people have to remove it anyway.


In short this simple idea turns out to be not so simple. I'm following through, and will take lots of photos to post next week or so when I get it all taken apart. Basically taking it a part is the hard part so far because I don't know how to take it apart. I advise people to wait on removing the moldings around the legs until I correctly learn how they come off. They look like expensive pieces of plastic. The floor moldings just snapped off 123. The leg moldings have a hook under the seat that needs to be released first. They they look like they will slide off he 3/4" needed to release them.

Just wait. Let me be the lab rat. I don't want anyone to break the leg moldings.

 

[litebrite]

It would take some serious re-engineering to make the pins removable and then it could compromise the safety aspects of the hinges.

It looks that way so far.... But I'd like to get it all a apart and say for sure. I'm hoping there's a nut attached at the other end and then it's not so complicated. I'll show photos either way. I've gone as far as I can until next week. I'll post then.

Now you have me worried too about pin strength. I'll find a solution for that too as a backup should a pin break under collision type force. Some type of chain bracket to attach just in case that is as easy to remove.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

This looks like a very cool mod that I am going to do on my 4th gen.

I am confused though... What's the safety concern? The only safety concern I see is with the rear seat bottoms out as there's no extra barrier for low-lying cargo if you run into something. When the seat is in the regular position with an occupant the belt holds the body, the seat back is critically important too. IMHO the seat bottom isn't under any crazy loads that require incredible structural integrity during a crash.
:cheers:

 

[harper7]

litebrite ....this is definitely thinking outside the box!! I like it!

I'm going to check into it too. I actually could have used that extra 6-8 inches this week when I picked up my bumpers.

 

[bradj]

This looks like a very cool mod that I am going to do on my 4th gen.

I am confused though... What's the safety concern? The only safety concern I see is with the rear seat bottoms out as there's no extra barrier for low-lying cargo if you run into something. When the seat is in the regular position with an occupant the belt holds the body, the seat back is critically important too. IMHO the seat bottom isn't under any crazy loads that require incredible structural integrity during a crash.
:cheers:

I'm just thinking of a childs car seat coming loose during a crash due to the seat bottom shifting/sliding/breaking free because of these hinge pins shearing if the frame were to shift.

I was just thinking of cheap carabiners in the dollar bin at hardware stores that have to stamp not for climbing use because they almost look legit but would break if actually used for climbing. Was just throwing some words of caution in the wind.... It is a really good idea though.

 

[litebrite]

Finally had the plastic removed. It's welded in place. Gonna need more than a torch. I'm still going through with this but only 1 side. Taking it to a welder. It won't be as simple but I really want it done.

Of course, I'll take pics of the process when that day happens.

 

[Ryan_S]

The whole seat bottom is welded in? Is there is no way to even remove the seat bottom at all?

 

[Grape Ape]

You can remove the front passenger seat to if you're really hard up for cargo space...or you could just get a bigger vehicle.