Going Bigger - 5th Gen Tire Fitment Guide

New to the forum, new to the 5th gen, not new to 4runners. After searching and reading hundreds of posts, looking at charts, and using several tire size and wheel offset calculators, I think I have my answer, but still a little concerned, so I'm asking.

Just got a 20 limited with the pizza cutters. THIS vehicle will mainly see pavement, maybe some light trail use. I want to replace the wheels/tires with 20x9 offset 1mm (or 20mm depending on fit) and 275/55R20's. I think with the 1mm offset there will be some rub that will require some fender liner mod. The 20mm offset will bring the tire in and potentially remove the rub, but I dont know for sure if it will then rub on the suspension components.

Thoughts on fitment for these?
1) 275/55R20 with 20x9 offset 1mm
2) 275/55R20 with 20x9 offset 20mm
 
Fitment question here, seems to be a pretty popular setup i've noticed among 4Runners:

Bilstein 6112 0-2.5″ FRONT, 5160 0-2″ REAR LIFT SHOCKS

SCS F5 Wheels 17 X 8.5 6 X 139.7 4.30" -10mm

Falken Wildpeak AT3W All Terrain Radial Tire - 285/70R17 117T

Will I need a Body mount chop or should i be able to get away with taking off the mud flaps?

Thank you in advance.
 
Fitment question here, seems to be a pretty popular setup i've noticed among 4Runners:

Bilstein 6112 0-2.5″ FRONT, 5160 0-2″ REAR LIFT SHOCKS

SCS F5 Wheels 17 X 8.5 6 X 139.7 4.30" -10mm

Falken Wildpeak AT3W All Terrain Radial Tire - 285/70R17 117T

Will I need a Body mount chop or should i be able to get away with taking off the mud flaps?

Thank you in advance.

You're going to need rear springs or spacers to achieve any lift in the back. The 5160 is good for 0-2 however the shock itself offers no lift at all. To answer your question, you will likely need a BMC with those wheels but there is no way to answer with certainty. You'll have to try it and cut if needed.
 
Just a data point since I haven't seen them mentioned much here..

I just installed Nokian Rotiiva AT+ LT285/70R17 on my 2016 TEP, and there is no rub at all. Running Trail Edition rims (7.5") and no spacers. Isn't even close -- at least 1/2" from mud flaps, front lips, and further from the body mount.

EDIT: there is rubbing at flex on front fenders... Will need to do the dremel cut fix.

I run a 2" lift with OEM UCA so castor is about as far forward as possible on OEM.

The Rotiiva AT+ is relatively "small" for its size rating and does not have aggressive shoulder treads, so that helps. ( Nokian Rotiiva AT Plus - All-Season tires / Nokian Tires )

I replaced worn out Falken AT3W P265/70R17 at about 80K km. No assessment so far (only dry summer driving) but road noise and behaviour is fine thus far.
 
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Fitment question here, seems to be a pretty popular setup i've noticed among 4Runners:

Bilstein 6112 0-2.5″ FRONT, 5160 0-2″ REAR LIFT SHOCKS

SCS F5 Wheels 17 X 8.5 6 X 139.7 4.30" -10mm

Falken Wildpeak AT3W All Terrain Radial Tire - 285/70R17 117T

Will I need a Body mount chop or should i be able to get away with taking off the mud flaps?

I am running those shocks, Eibach load adjust rear springs (+250lbs). 1/2” spacers up front, clip settings #4

JBA UCAs

SCS wheels, 265/70 AT3Ws.

The offset of the wheels defiantly impacts clearance. I am at 5 degrees caster and barely clear the body mount. If I go bigger I will absolutely need a chop. With stock UCA I would not clear.

Also running Rokblokz flaps, no issue there and likely they will be fine after a chop
 
You're going to need rear springs or spacers to achieve any lift in the back. The 5160 is good for 0-2 however the shock itself offers no lift at all. To answer your question, you will likely need a BMC with those wheels but there is no way to answer with certainty. You'll have to try it and cut if needed.

Agreed, only way to know for sure is to put the wheels/tires on your rig and see if it rubs. FWIW, I am running the F5 wheels in -10 offset with 285/70s and had to do a BMC. My tires where rubbing the body mount at full lock (forward and reverse), but especially bad in reverse.
 
I picked up some RRW wheels for my stock SR5--17x8.5 w/ -12 offset. I don't plan on going bigger than 265's (thinking Falken Wildpeaks) and leveling it in the future. I'm starting to think the offset is going to cause problems- any thoughts on if it's going to be more of a headache than trimming?
 
I picked up some RRW wheels for my stock SR5--17x8.5 w/ -12 offset. I don't plan on going bigger than 265's (thinking Falken Wildpeaks) and leveling it in the future. I'm starting to think the offset is going to cause problems- any thoughts on if it's going to be more of a headache than trimming?

I ran SCS on my 2016 4Runner (which I believe are a 17x8.5 with -10). Running LT265/70R17 Falkens I needed to trim a bunch and pull my front mud flaps, but was fine otherwise.

If you do not go over 265 width, you should be okay I'd think.
 
I ran SCS on my 2016 4Runner (which I believe are a 17x8.5 with -10). Running LT265/70R17 Falkens I needed to trim a bunch and pull my front mud flaps, but was fine otherwise.

If you do not go over 265 width, you should be okay I'd think.


Awesome- thanks for that. Definitely don't have any plans to go over 265, but still need to decide if it's worth the hassle.
 
So had a welcome surprise. Put SCS Ray10 17x8.5 with FALKEN Wildpeak AT 285/70s on and no rub on the body mount. Had to remove the mud flaps and cut the front fenders but that’s easy enough. Guess I got lucky!
 
Without a lift? It can be done without a lift but it's very tight. It'll work for street use only.

It has a 1.5/1 in lift on it today, still has stock UCAs. I wouldn’t wheel it hard but it has enough clearance to handle level 1 and level 2 trails. There’s clearance at full lock with flex.
 
No spacers and 17” wheels clear the calipers without any issues. Stock wheels are 17s unless you have a limited with 20s but the brakes are all the same either way.

Not in all cases, depends on wheel offset and design. With 0 offset, chances are it will be fine but as you get into positive offsets, it’s not a guarantee that you’ll clear the caliper and the UCA.
 
Not in all cases, depends on wheel offset and design. With 0 offset, chances are it will be fine but as you get into positive offsets, it’s not a guarantee that you’ll clear the caliper and the UCA.

Yeah but why would anyone want positive offset with a bigger wider tire? Counterproductive there.
 
Yeah but why would anyone want positive offset with a bigger wider tire? Counterproductive there.

Bigger and wider tires aren't just for a wider stance. If you can get a better driving or handling result with positive offset wheels, or fit a larger tire easier, or potentially other reasons not related to wanting a wider stance.

Ideally the centerline of the tire should roughly split the centerline of the wheel bearing. - that's generally how engineers design the hub/wheel assembly as a system for long life and good handling characteristics. An ideal widening of the stance would be the result of wider axles, not wheel spacers or wheel offsets. But we compromised because wider axles are expensive.
 
Bigger and wider tires aren't just for a wider stance. If you can get a better driving or handling result with positive offset wheels, or fit a larger tire easier, or potentially other reasons not related to wanting a wider stance.

Ideally the centerline of the tire should roughly split the centerline of the wheel bearing. - that's generally how engineers design the hub/wheel assembly as a system for long life and good handling characteristics. An ideal widening of the stance would be the result of wider axles, not wheel spacers or wheel offsets. But we compromised because wider axles are expensive.
While I agree, that just generally doesn’t work with our configuration. Solid axle maybe, IFS not so much due to the uppers getting in the way.
 

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