Got a leak, need input

I have been researching a multitude of threads about the transfer case/actuator o-ring leaks. I have three 4runners and the newest one has developed a transfer case leak at the actuator. I read that there is a shop in Texas, I think in the Dallas/Fort Worth area that has a fix that is cheap and works. I have searched now for two days and can't find the link. Does anyone know of the shop, or of any fixes for the o-ring replacement other than plunking down $1000?

I too have read just about every Toyota and Lexus thread on this leak and I am unaware of any shop that will do the repair without removing the transfer case. I have the same leak and it has gotten worse. If you happen to find a place in San Diego let me know. There are a few guys on here that have done the simple version of the repair (actuator disassembly only) but it looks like you can get yourself into a jam if you don't know exactly what you are doing. Without the full on step-by-step instructions with photos I am hesitant to try it myself.
 
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there is a guy by the name of Shane, goes by Killepea on the Ihatemud website. He works at a Lexus dealer in Dallas. He says that they have the fix for the leak, easy cheap. What it is I don't know. I have reached out to him but have not heard back from him yet. I had a leak on one of the other 4runners that we have. I added an entire bottle of white shepherd and drove it around for a couple of hours. It stopped the leak, for a few weeks. I left the stuff in and didn't chance out the fluid, bad mistake. It worked on the 0-ring, but caused havoc on the driveshaft seal. I had it fixed at a shop in Kearney Mesa, Pro Gear, $100 later and I was on my way. So far so good. A few days ago, I added two large syringes full of the white shepherd, probably about 2-3 ounces total. I plan on draining it out this afternoon. It seems to have stopped the leak. Time will tell. I have used the white shepherd on a number of vehicles with mixed results, worked great on land rover discovery gear boxes. I did try their head gasket stuff, blue devil, on a discovery II. Not so good, it did stop the head gasket leak, but it clogged up my radiator, not good, ended up doing the head gaskets anyway. Hope that this works in the transfer case. I will let you know if I hear from the guy in Texas. Phil
 
I just saw that thread on ih8mud.com. It looks like a few of those guys have fixed the leak by the actuator removal method by just rotating the actuator just the right amount prior to removal. KillerPea and the guys on posts #9 and #35 have done it that way. If it really can be done like that why doesn't Lexus update the TSB to show it done that way. It would save them money on their warranty repairs.
 
I checked with several indy shops, a tranny shop and several dealers. Prices varied from, are you sitting down, $2600 at Kearny Mesa Toyota, to $300 at a local indy toyota truck shop, trux. The guy at Trux said that they are doing the rtv seal and are having great luck with it. There is another differential driveline shop that has done some work on my vehicles in the past. they would remove and r and r the transfer case seals for about $500. Prices are just crazy. By the way, the white shepherd is working great no drips, so far. Stay tuned. Phil
 
Found this and a few threads after seeing a small leak under the truck. I've attached a pic, doesn't seem like I'm having the actuator leak as that is all dry. Leak is coming from where front driveshaft bolts to transfer case. Any ideas?
 

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Found this and a few threads after seeing a small leak under the truck. I've attached a pic, doesn't seem like I'm having the actuator leak as that is all dry. Leak is coming from where front driveshaft bolts to transfer case. Any ideas?


Yup. There is a seal there that is leaking. I had mine fixed by the dealer for $125, but they covered half as I just bought the vehicle. I'm sure a local mechanic can do it for that price if you have one. Not too involved of a job.
 
Yup. There is a seal there that is leaking. I had mine fixed by the dealer for $125, but they covered half as I just bought the vehicle. I'm sure a local mechanic can do it for that price if you have one. Not too involved of a job.

Just talked to my local dealer and got quoted $150 so will get it taken care of next week.
 
With respect to the o-ring leak at the actuator, I'm wondering if you could shoot some rubberized undercoating out of an aerosol can up in there between the actuator and transfer case housing to seal up the leak.
 
any updates from the guys using white shepherd treatment a few years ago? Mine has a very slow leak I've been monitoring for a little while and it's time to do something about it. Thanks!
 
I figured it was time I update this post. I tried this stuff chaz mentioned and it worked like a charm!!! I changed fluid and added the White Shepherd about 3-4 weeks ago and not a drop since has leaked best I can tell. We will see how long it holds up, hopefully for a good while. Thanks chaz!!!!

I know this one is an old post ARK. But where do I top up this fluid with some white sheppard?
 
I guess I will update my story. I am about to hit 195k miles and I did the WS treatment 4 years and approx 50k miles ago. So its only showing a very minor leak with no drips just some very minor seepage. I check the gear oil fluid level every few oil changes and its at a consistent level.
 
I'd be tempted to just spray some rubberized undercoating all around the transfer case actuator to seal it up and call it a day.
 
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I guess I will update my story. I am about to hit 195k miles and I did the WS treatment 4 years and approx 50k miles ago. So its only showing a very minor leak with no drips just some very minor seepage. I check the gear oil fluid level every few oil changes and its at a consistent level.

I think just very minor leakage with no drops forming, just wetness, is inevitable with this actuator o-ring design. I replaced the actuator o-ring on mine in Jan 2015 (it was leaking a lot at the time) and after a few weeks it was a little wet but has not gotten worse since.
 
long term effects?

I've read this entire thread, and does anyone know what happens if the leak goes un-noticed for a long period of time? I've recently noticed this leak and it looks like it could have been a problem for who knows how long.
Would it eventually cause issues with the tranny? Forgive my ignorance, I don't know enough about the mechanics of it to make any assumptions.
 
This is a transfer case leak so it would leak gear oil. For a leak that goes un-noticed it wouldn't be leaking very much so not a problem. After it starts leaking more, like a few drops every day, you should remove the oil fill plug on the transfer case and top it off. Or just do that now if you are unsure. It shouldn't take more than a few ounces of oil before it starts running out of the fill plug, every oil change if the leak is still small. You will need a bottle pump to top it off.
 
Time for an update to this thread. 5 years and 55k miles later, the actuator seal was still holding up great, no leaking at all. However, I developed a leak at both the input and output shafts about a month ago. It was a small leak, so figured I'd try the White Sheperd (Blue Devil) stop leak again. Within a couple hundred miles, my slow drip turned into a massive leak. On a 180 mile trip I lost over 1 quart of fluid. I assume at this point the seals were too far gone. I ended up having a local shop replace all seals in the transfer case for a total of $850.

My thought is the stop leak is a good temp fix, but not a true long term solution. I expected this from the beginning, and didn't loose a thing by running it the last few years. However, if you plan to keep your 4runner a while, a rebuild seems inevitable.
 
Time for an update to this thread. 5 years and 55k miles later, the actuator seal was still holding up great, no leaking at all. However, I developed a leak at both the input and output shafts about a month ago. It was a small leak, so figured I'd try the White Sheperd (Blue Devil) stop leak again. Within a couple hundred miles, my slow drip turned into a massive leak. On a 180 mile trip I lost over 1 quart of fluid. I assume at this point the seals were too far gone. I ended up having a local shop replace all seals in the transfer case for a total of $850.

My thought is the stop leak is a good temp fix, but not a true long term solution. I expected this from the beginning, and didn't loose a thing by running it the last few years. However, if you plan to keep your 4runner a while, a rebuild seems inevitable.


Hi there, I'll try to respond to this for the sake of others who are interested.

I have never been a fan of any stop leak additive.

Brake systems typically use something like EP(ethylene propylene) rubber, which swells "just the right amount" for a braking application, while retaining excellent high temperature tolerance, when exposed to your typical glycol-ether based brake fluid. However, drop a standard rotating shaft seal( which is made from a rubber with completely different elastomeric properties) and you will notice that in time, this seal will swell considerably. The same is true for most other types of rubber seals in your engine and transmission.

An an elderly gentleman (who liked to fix his cars the "quick and dirty" way) once taught me a trick to fix leaking oil seals: Add a teaspoon of *brake fluid* to the oil and run it for the duration of an oil change. Then sell the car.
This gentleman may or may not have been my grandfather who happened to be a child during the great depression. If queried, I will deny everything. He never told me anything about sawdust in differentials nor manual transmissions, either. I swear.

The point here is that the brake fluid caused the seals to swell. This means that now your nice symmetrical lip seal may expand in a non symmetrical way, and will subsequently experience new wear due to increased contact with the rotating shaft. If you've replaced a shaft seal before, remember that you saw a nice, narrow shiny spot where the lip was contacting, and outboard of this spot, you saw nastiness. Now imagine that shaft seal expanding into this little shiny spot and the nastiness next to it. That's right. Bad news. Sure, it slowed the leak down for a bit, but that seal is softer now, has worn in a way that it shouldn't have, and likely will start slowly shrinking back to its original size. If it starts shrinking, your small leak will become a large leak very quickly.

I see stop leak additives as the same thing. They must be. All the additives are "secret", but I'm betting a look at the "formula" would reveal something similar to the glycol ether in your brake fluid reservoir. It's a temporary fix, and I just couldn't ever do something like that and subsequently sell the car due to the guilt I would feel (and the fear that the buyer might be both an axe murderer and an automotive forensics specialist). All rubbers outgass over time. Anything deposited in them that is capable of evaporating, eventually will. This includes the hydrocarbon chains that they are made of (short hydrocarbons to the front of the line!). Logic dictates that sooner or later, the stop leak additive that has caused the rubber to swell and stop leaking must slowly evaporate or dissipate in some other manner.

If you're going to keep the 4runner, and you want to love it like a 4runner should be loved, I think the best thing to do is replace the seals. I'll try to be more responsive on this site, some people messaged me during my sans-4runner days, but I'm back, and I'm going to have some fun with my beautiful new stratospheric mica beauty. I would like to make a simple little box which can be plugged into the transfer case actuator to actuate it and show the positions of the rotary switches. If I had something like this, it would have been so much easier to do the seal swap on my 2003. If there are any available guinea pigs in michigan, ohio, or indiana, let me know :cheers:
 
Year 5, 209k miles still only minor seepage with no drips. I haven't had to add any oil but the time for a a drain and fill is getting close.
 
Found out that mine is now leaking... I have an 04 v6. Got quoted by one dealer it would be 1500... thats keeping the actuator. Wondering if thats the only option or if there is a cheaper way to go. I dont want to put additives in it. I want to do it right, but I also dont have 1500 dollars to spend... any thoughts? I have read through all the pages. I will be looking around to find somewhere cheaper, but I also dont want to go somehwere I dont trust.
 

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