...got bass?

BowJanked said:
Not gonna give me more base but will help it all come together.
a1db1e069eb1898134cae742393a4a51.jpg



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Click to expand...

It will give you more bass. It has a high voltage out and a non regulated bass signal. You will have much more control with the crossover of the bass signal.
 
jgs9455 said:
Hey everyone, just pickedup my 2016 SR5 Premium today with Nav but no JBL. I'd like to try and reuse the subwoofer and sub amp I had in my 2000 4R.
Hertz 10" HX 250D
Arc Audio XDi600.1

1. I've learned that I probably need a Audio Control LC2i line out converter.
2. I'll need to tap into the rear stereo speakers to send a full range input to the LC2i. The best place to do this is the drivers side door sill or rear passenger dor sill?? I hate cutting/splicing into my factory wires :(
3. I've seen confusing wiring diagrams but what color wires am I looking for?
4. I'll need to run power from the battery to the LC2i and the amplifier down door sill. This won't cause noise right nect to speaker wires?
5. The LC2i can sense a speaker signal and then remote signal to turn on the amplifier.


TIA!
Click to expand...

If you read through [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] statements, you will want to tap into the front speakers, not the rears for bass output.

You want to keep the power away from the signal wires. Speaker wire is power wire. It's sending current to the speakers) so shouldn't be affected by the 12v line.
 
tigger said:
If you read through [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] statements, you will want to tap into the front speakers, not the rears for bass output.

You want to keep the power away from the signal wires. Speaker wire is power wire. It's sending current to the speakers) so shouldn't be affected by the 12v line.
Click to expand...

Front speaker wires maybe "better" but the rears are easier to access/tap and shouldn't be too off.
 
It's sure does. :) everything the dealership can do the deck can do with the module on the avh-4200NEX


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rigtec said:
Sorry Paytonious,

I should have explained myself more thoroughly... Whenever an audio device doesn't have low (signal) level outputs on it's rear control panel, the L & R 'High-level' speaker outputs can be substituted as an alternative. You'll simply grab the L & R 'front channel' speaker output wires from the headunit and tie them into the high-level input wires of the LOC device. This module will convert the high voltage output speaker signal from the HU to a conventional 2Vac pre-amp out with standard L & R RCA's for a convenient 'Plug-&-Play' set-up! Rgds!
Click to expand...

Would you happen to have a guide on what color the L&R front channel speaker wires are from the head unit on a 2014-2016 4runner? I'm planning to add an amp and sub to mine and after reading your comments I would like to tap into directly into the ones from the head unit. Thanks in advance.
 
858SWRunner said:
Would you happen to have a guide on what color the L&R front channel speaker wires are from the head unit on a 2014-2016 4runner? I'm planning to add an amp and sub to mine and after reading your comments I would like to tap into directly into the ones from the head unit. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Hi 858SWRunner,

...and sorry for the delayed reply; I found your post by accident, I'm not subscribed to this thread. The L & R Front speaker wire colors are as follows: The Lt Grn wire is POS + and the Blue wire is NEG - on both sides. Once again, sorry for my delay,

rig, 'Best to you'!
 
Hi team,

...made an effort to change the title of this thread to a more appropriate one beginning with the word: "Subs" for the benefit of those using the search function but I didn't want to chance losing the entire thread just to do that! :fear:

rig, cheers :cheers:
 
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Hey team...

I happy to see so many team members doing a lot of their own wiring e.g., LED bars, remote starting mods, and audio amplifiers...etc. So I thought it would be quite appropriate to leave this 'wire gauge chart' here for your electrical systems working convenience:



I got this chart from ANOTHER very high quality alternator manufacturer who's customer base is 90% military grade first respondor vehicles. They're much like our DC power Engineering 270-XP but (believe it or not) just a little more expensive: No, you read that statement right, just a little MORE expensive! Check them out SBC High Output Alternators 'Best to you',

rig
 
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rigtec said:
I hope that this project will be helpful to someone who's considering swapping out your oem dashboard tweeters for something new! Rdgs :yo:
Click to expand...

Just got done installing these. First one took me an hour, 2nd 15 minutes. It's the kind of mod I'm really interested in doing right now; not visibly different than stock, inexpensive, yet has an impact.

I'm very happy with the sound now where the system was noticeably lacking in treble and 'musicality', it sounds much much better. I could see myself doing some door speakers at some point, but who knows maybe not.

Thanks for the idea and write up!
 
UtahFox said:
Just got done installing these. First one took me an hour, 2nd 15 minutes. It's the kind of mod I'm really interested in doing right now; not visibly different than stock, inexpensive, yet has an impact.

I'm very happy with the sound now where the system was noticeably lacking in treble and 'musicality', it sounds much much better. I could see myself doing some door speakers at some point, but who knows maybe not.

Thanks for the idea and write up!
Click to expand...

Hi UtahFox,

So glad that you were inspired by the read! I replaced the dash tweeters first, and like you said, the system sounded so much better once the tweeters were changed... unbelievably so! I knew I needed to do something with the door speakers; just looking at them and you know that they're just 'NO GOOD'! Since I'm using Alpine subs, mono-blocks, and tweeters, it only made sense to look into the Alpine 6x9 door speakers line. I ended up going with the Alpine R' series for the front doors: thanks so much [MENTION=120209]tigger[/MENTION] for your influence on getting those; they sound great!

I haven't done the rear doors as of yet. I still may but it sounds so good right now, it's not a priority. And I'm not using the tailgate speakers due to the massive subwoofer system that handles all of the low-end... you couldn't hear the tailgate speakers when I was just using one ten driver and one 'JL Audio HD-750' mono-block. I have the tailgate speakers disconnected and they're wiring jumped (in parallel) to run the rear door speakers at 4ohms (previously running @8ohms); which means doubling the HU's rear channel power to the rear door speakers.

I don't know if you've ever seen this write-up, but I'll leave it here just in case you could use any assistance with the door speaker wiring or door trim panel removal/reinstallation: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/210591-alpine-1-dash-component-review.html Have fun with your new project and equipment, and again, thanks for sharing your thoughts, 'Best to you',

rig
 
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rigtec said:
I ended up going with the Alpine R' series for the front doors: thanks so much [MENTION=120209]tigger[/MENTION] for your influence on getting those; they sound great!
Click to expand...

Are the door speakers "plug and play" or did it require some unique fitment?
 
UtahFox said:
Are the door speakers "plug and play" or did it require some unique fitment?
Click to expand...

They weren't exactly 'plug-n-play'; you need to use speaker mounting adapters because the speaker baffle hole is an odd size (not 6x9 or 5"), it's just to big for most aftermarket drivers to mount straight up. If you take a look at the Alpine dash speaker link that I included below, I listed the 'Metra kit' speaker adapter part number there as well; cost was $20 bucks: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2294985-post49.html

rig, Cheers!
 
rigtec said:
They weren't exactly 'plug-n-play'; you need to use speaker mounting adapters because the speaker baffle hole is an odd size (not 6x9 or 5"), it's just to big for most aftermarket drivers to mount straight up. If you take a look at the Alpine dash speaker link that I included below, I listed the 'Metra kit' speaker adapter part number there as well; cost was $20 bucks: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2294985-post49.html

rig, Cheers!
Click to expand...

Thanks. I decided to replace the front door speakers, but partially due to me not doing enough research, and partially due to Crutchfields website, I bought 6 1/2" speakers. Spent a few hours trying to get them to work in the front doors before the dim lightbulb in my head got brighter. The time was well spent though as I can whip those door panels off and on in a few seconds.

Went to best buy and got some 6x9s (JBLs- didn't want to wait or spend too much), and installed them in a few minutes. System sounds great now - plus, I've got some speakers to put in the rear doors, the Metra bracket should be here later today.

Thanks again for your writeup, I'm probably going to be done after the rear doors, have spent too much lately and just need to enjoy what I have for a while!
 
UtahFox said:
Thanks. I decided to replace the front door speakers, but partially due to me not doing enough research, and partially due to Crutchfields website, I bought 6 1/2" speakers. Spent a few hours trying to get them to work in the front doors before the dim lightbulb in my head got brighter. The time was well spent though as I can whip those door panels off and on in a few seconds.

Went to best buy and got some 6x9s (JBLs- didn't want to wait or spend too much), and installed them in a few minutes. System sounds great now - plus, I've got some speakers to put in the rear doors, the Metra bracket should be here later today.

Thanks again for your writeup, I'm probably going to be done after the rear doors, have spent too much lately and just need to enjoy what I have for a while!
Click to expand...

Hi UtahFox,

So glad to hear that you're experiencing the result that you were hoping to achieve; that's a fantastic feeling! 'best to you',

rig, cheers
 
This thread reminds me of my high school days...

As much as I like awesome audio there is no way I could sub out the rear of the truck haha. These days I keep the high end sounds in the house instead. Thankfully I haven’t had to Dynamat the house.
 
Bumbo said:
This thread reminds me of my high school days...

As much as I like awesome audio there is no way I could sub out the rear of the truck haha. These days I keep the high end sounds in the house instead. Thankfully I haven’t had to Dynamat the house.
Click to expand...

Hi Bumbo,

I get that! The subs in my photos were just an experiment I needed to do because I had the time, the passion, and the cash to do whatever I wanted to do at the time! Since then I've down sized some... same amount of H.P., but less 'cone surface area' as far as speaker diameter and component numbers.

So now I only use 2 fifteen (Alpine R' series) and two Alpine 1200W true RMS Mono-blocks to drive them; which leaves more available cargo space. It's still a lot I know but it's just a hobby,

rig, cheers!
 
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