Halfway Through Tundra Front Springs.. Advice Before I Continue?

Here are the pictures as it sits now. I still need to do the following before I call it "done" -> Install a new passenger side sway bar end link (broke the other one while removing it, which turned out to not even be a necessary step), Install the 1" diff drop kit, shave the skid plate to accept the diff drop kit, install the extended rear brake line and bleed the brakes, and TRY to rotate the driver's side coil 90 degrees so it will (hopefully) not hit the coil at full droop.

Here it is, on the 3rd perch of Bilstein 5100's, Tundra TRD coils, with LC 8-wraps and Bilstein 5100's in the rear. The rear is sitting too high for my taste..and I REALLY hope it settles over the next couple of weeks / months (anyone have experience with this?). The tires are 265/75/16's for reference (basically 31's).

Thoughts?

Holy Rake Batman!!

They will not settle that much, they are front coils which are designed for a lot of weight and they dont settle as much. Usually when pairing the front trd coils with rear LC coils you want to go with 7 wraps because of this issue.

If you left the rear cone bump stops inside the coils you can remove these to lower it about 3/4".
 
Holy Rake Batman!!

They will not settle that much, they are front coils which are designed for a lot of weight and they dont settle as much. Usually when pairing the front trd coils with rear LC coils you want to go with 7 wraps because of this issue.

If you left the rear cone bump stops inside the coils you can remove these to lower it about 3/4".

Will this hurt it at all?? I think I'd like to do that actually.
 
What is the point of them? Do they just act as an internal bumpstop, so the springs do not compress past a certain point? Or do they also act as a cushion / bushing between the coil and the body?
 
A small tip if you decide to rotate the coil. Unbolt the lower ball joint and you can install/remove the strut assy much easier. Did my tundra/5100 billies recently and flew thru the swap doing it this way, and no worries of the jack coming flying off. I still needed to push down the lower, but was pretty much able to do it by hand. It does make it easier if you unbolt the sway bar link.
 
this is mine on the third perch, it rode like crap, but here it is. considering a stock 4runner front sits at 19.5" hub to fender i was at 25" before my bumper and about 24.5 with it.
 

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Looks just like mine did with the 7.5/8 wraps, like a stinkbug. I ditched the LC coils and bought a set of OME 891 instead.
 
I'm curious to this as well, I see others with similar setup that Dont have such a large rake. If this is what mines will look like I guess I'm gonna have to pick up a set of ome's for the rear.

Are you using the 5 perch tundra 5100 shocks up front?
 
What is the point of them? Do they just act as an internal bumpstop, so the springs do not compress past a certain point? Or do they also act as a cushion / bushing between the coil and the body?

They dont work anymore because you have lifted up and the coil wont really touch them. Steve at SS recommends not running them with 7 wraps as you get too much rake to the front tundra coils.

When running 8 wraps most people want at least a 3" front full lift. 8 wraps can give 4-5" lift. Remove the coil bump stops and it will help a lot. But with 8 wraps your looking at 1-2" rake easy. If you get larger tires it wont look as bad IMO and it will perform good offroad. You headlights might need some adjustment LOL.
 
I'm curious to this as well, I see others with similar setup that Dont have such a large rake. If this is what mines will look like I guess I'm gonna have to pick up a set of ome's for the rear.

Are you using the 5 perch tundra 5100 shocks up front?

Yeah, I'm on the 3rd adjustment rung.

It could be because of the size of the tires (265/75/16) or it could be the fact that they sat in my garage, off of a vehicle, for months and months. Or the fact that the rear bump cones are still in there (although that shouldn't make a HUGE difference, I don't feel like).
 
Yeah, I'm on the 3rd adjustment rung.

It could be because of the size of the tires (265/75/16) or it could be the fact that they sat in my garage, off of a vehicle, for months and months. Or the fact that the rear bump cones are still in there (although that shouldn't make a HUGE difference, I don't feel like).

I gained 3/4" from the bump stops. Measured. It will make a huge difference, we are talking almost full inch. And yes the coils will settle a bit, just not a bunch.
 
I gained 3/4" from the bump stops. Measured. It will make a huge difference, we are talking almost full inch. And yes the coils will settle a bit, just not a bunch.

I'll take the bump stops out tomorrow and report back with how much it lowers it. Getting an alignment right now!
 
It's going to lower it by however thick the flange is between the spring and bucket. Going off of memory it's about 1/2".
 
It's going to lower it by however thick the flange is between the spring and bucket. Going off of memory it's about 1/2".

Its going to lower double the thickness of the bump stop. Which is 1/4" thick. Should be about 1/2" but in my truck it actually was a 3/4" change.
 
How do you figure it's going to be double? That's like saying a 1/4" shim between two pieces of steel makes the two pieces 1/2" apart.

It doesn't do anything to increase the spring rate of the spring.
 

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