Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

[Kung]

Excited - got the rotors and brake pads/shims on order; and will pick up remanufactured calipers next Thursday to have everything installed the following Tuesday. (Yes, I can do it myself, and have...but frankly, two guys @ work accepted other jobs so I'm the proverbial one legged man, and there's a lot of butts to kick.)

 

[poleclimber63]

Question:

I refinished some rims to mount my Winters (OEM split 3's) and now have them on my truck. This Spring I want to do the upgrade in prep for boating season. The thing is, I know the split 3's WON'T fit over the 13WL's, however, does anyone know if they'll fit with a 1/4" spacer and the extra thread lugs? Or will I just have to give it a go and see what happens???? Zooroadbaja expressed concern even with the ET lugs....
I was hoping I could get away with just running spacers next Winter and beyond, as I plan on acquiring some 5-star OEM rims in the Spring to coincide with my upgrade for running in Summer(Spring thru Fall) with my new Yokohama Geolandars.....

 

[01KY4R]

TBU Complete!

I still can't believe why I waited so long to do this. I guess I was just too cheap to invest the money. After warping my new 4Runner rotors after two months of use I decided it was time to start shopping. I have always shopped online at Advance Auto and I have never been happier with their prices and customer service. I was out the door (after the core replacement) for $250 and that includes 13WL calipers, rotors, ceramic pads, a 32oz bottle fluid, and some brake quiet grease. I got lucky (and here is where the customer service kicks in) after sheering off the bleeder valve (manufacture's defect and free replacement) at 7:50PM on a Sunday evening I called up my local Advance and they held a new caliper for me and kept the doors open long enough for me to make it there... just a short drive from my house. I know I wasn't very smart for performing the work late on a Sunday, but my schedule doesn't exactly allow for much wrenching time.

I just want to give a big thanks to BigFish and all others who have posted on this upgrade. I almost forgot what it was like to hit the brakes and not have to have both hands on the wheel!

 

[Kung]

Picked up NAPA calipers; turns out they're already powdercoated black, so no need to paint them.

Additionally, they know me, so they told me "Don't worry about the core charge; just bring 'em back once replaced." Too cool. They're going on tomorrow.

 

[TRD 4RNR]

Picked up from my local dealer today:
Pair of Rotors @ $168.42
Brake Pads @ $57.13
Shim Kit @ $39.49
Can of Brake Cleaner @ Free

Will swing by Napa on Monday and pick up my calipers

Thanks for all the info contained in this thread !

 

[Kung]

Just got the 4Runner back...not counting parts (which, not counting core
charge, were about $400, as I chose to go totally OEM), the install total was $127. (Brake job plus an hour for the caliper removal, replacement and trimming of dust shields.)

As everyone else has said - HUGE difference. I notice a VERY slight increase in the amount of pedal travel - so slight it's almost not worth mentioning - but when it grabs MAN does it grab. Hands down the best upgrade one could do. I underestimated the increase in braking power when I took it for a test drive and about put myself through the windshield. LOL

 

[poleclimber63]

Good to hear!

I'm in the process of pricing this upgrade here in Canada and have been shocked to find everything is going to cost ALOT more... Than in the USA... For instance, I went to a wrecker and they wanted $400 for rotors and calipers! From a wrecker for gods sake! I discovered that most wreckers here won't sell brake parts as they consider it a liability issue. They sell all the cores to reman outfits down south (USA)... This may take longer than I thought...

I'm also finding it hard finding 5 star rims up here. No one has any. I did come across some but on closer exam one of them was cracked! On top of that they wanted $300 for them, before I spotted the cracks! The search continues.

 

[shadow247]

I'm in the process of pricing this upgrade here in Canada and have been shocked to find everything is going to cost ALOT more... Than in the USA... For instance, I went to a wrecker and they wanted $400 for rotors and calipers! From a wrecker for gods sake! I discovered that most wreckers here won't sell brake parts as they consider it a liability issue. They sell all the cores to reman outfits down south (USA)... This may take longer than I thought...

I'm also finding it hard finding 5 star rims up here. No one has any. I did come across some but on closer exam one of them was cracked! On top of that they wanted $300 for them, before I spotted the cracks! The search continues.

Have you checked RockAuto Auto Parts ? They should ship to Canada. That should take care of your overpriced parts issue.

For the wheels, call up a local bodyshop and ask them if they deal with Keystone parts. I can get a set of remanufactured 5-stars for 125 each plus my local tax and then ship them to you.

 

[TRD 4RNR]

Mine rubbed there as well - really glad I was using a Dremel - just took a couple minutes to resolve.

Thanks for all the advice and work that went in to this thread.

I got the project done in a few hours - now I just waiting for a friend so we can bleed the system.

*Edit
Brakes bleed and Bed In Procedure completed - the brakes are working great !

Your next step is to test fit the Tundra Rotors and make sure you don't have any unforseen clearance issues. Most people say that they fit right on, but mine did not. I put the caliper in place, then tightened it down with two lugnuts (Remember I said to keep those handy?), then gave it a couple spins. I was getting some metal on metal contact at certain points in the rotation so I gave it a few more spins and checked for shiny metal. It turns out the rotor was hitting the dust shield here....

Out came the Dremel Tool again and I put on a small grinding attachment. I used the Sharpie to draw a 1mm line down the edge of the dust shield, then used the Dremel to grind off just that little bit. I tried the Tundra rotor again and it fit perfectly.

 

[Jeffs_T4R]

Completed!

After warping my rotors within a year, I decided it was time to tackle this mod. Boy to I regret not doing this sooner! Been buying the parts needed over the last month and finally got to doing the upgrade yesterday before my going to Tahoe today for some snowboarding. Everything went as expected, even bleeding the brakes which I was sweating bullets over because I had never done it before. Thanks BigFish for this awesome write-up :bravo:

 

[Adam F]

Just got done doing the 13wl on my 97 4Runner. I did it on the cheap, thanks to a discount deal through my work at a local parts store.

Raybestos calipers $64/each

Monroe HD pads $35

? rotors $31/each

Total cost was $225.

My stock alloys did not fit over the calipers. They rubbed the front facing casting of the caliper. I just grinded the caliper down and all was good.

Can't really say how well they work, just drove around the block and they seem OK, no big difference. We'll see long term, and over the summer when I tow my boat and trailer.

 

[Kung]

Wait until you really have to lock em up and you'll appreciate them.

 

[zooroadbaja]

Regarding what wheels fit, would all wheels that fit a Tundra/Sequoia OEM/aftermarket clear the 231?

 

[TX4Running]

Brake Pads

I ordered the brake pad kit and the shims do not have any slots in them. All 4 shims are solid. Is this normal? I know I had seen in the first post by BigFish 2 shims had slots. Thanks.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

I was out the door (after the core replacement) for $250 and that includes 13WL calipers, rotors, ceramic pads, a 32oz bottle fluid, and some brake quiet grease.

I just want to give a big thanks to BigFish and all others who have posted on this upgrade. I almost forgot what it was like to hit the brakes and not have to have both hands on the wheel!

Sounds like you got a great deal on your setup. I'm glad the write up helped you out w/your upgrade.

Thanks for all the advice and work that went in to this thread.

Brakes bleed and Bed In Procedure completed - the brakes are working great!

You're welcome, and congrats on the success.

After warping my rotors within a year, I decided it was time to tackle this mod. Boy to I regret not doing this sooner! Been buying the parts needed over the last month and finally got to doing the upgrade yesterday before my going to Tahoe today for some snowboarding. Everything went as expected, even bleeding the brakes which I was sweating bullets over because I had never done it before. Thanks BigFish for this awesome write-up :bravo:

You're welcome man. Have fun on the slopes this winter.

Regarding what wheels fit, would all wheels that fit a Tundra/Sequoia OEM/aftermarket clear the 231?

I would say that is an accurate statement. Even the early model Tundras and Sequoias came from the factory with wheels that were able to clear the 231's. The only exception MIGHT be the bare bones "work truck" type Tundras, which I believe came with steel wheels. When Toyota went from the 199 to the 231 and put out a TSB they would have had to account for the fact that if their caliper change forced people to buy new wheels they'd probably be footing the bill for that too.

I ordered the brake pad kit and the shims do not have any slots in them. All 4 shims are solid. Is this normal? I know I had seen in the first post by BigFish 2 shims had slots. Thanks.

I'm assuming you bought Toyota P/N 04465-AZ001-TM which includes pads AND shims. If so, the shims pictured in my first post may be different than the ones that came in your kit. I purchased my Pads & Shims separately as two different part numbers, and I've heard from others that there are differences between the Pads/Shims I used and the ones that come in the kit referenced above.

 

[TX4Running]

Brake Pads

I did order the Tundra brake pad kit 04465-AZ001-TM. The pads that came with the kit do not look like the pads you used. Mine have much less surface area. In fact they look worse than the NAPA pads. The outer edges are completely cut down. Anyone seen this? I ordered them off Amazon from a Toyota dealer. The picture they showed had complete surface area. I think I will return the kit and buy the pads and shims individually if these are the normal pads that come with the kit.

NOTE: The kit 04465-AZ001-TM does NOT include full-size brake pads. This is why they are such a bargain. If you want the full-size pads as shown in Big Fish's first posts go with the part number 04465-35290. Shim kit is 04945-0C030.

 

[TX4Running]

Bleeding Brakes

Looks like I should have all the parts by early next week to do the Tundra upgrade to 231 mm. I purchased speed bleeders to use when bleeding the brakes. Do the brakes need to be bled with wheels on and truck on ground? Or can they be bled with wheels off and truck on jack stands? Thanks.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

I did order the Tundra brake pad kit 04465-AZ001-TM. The pads that came with the kit do not look like the pads you used. Mine have much less surface area. In fact they look worse than the NAPA pads. The outer edges are completely cut down. Anyone seen this? I ordered them off Amazon from a Toyota dealer. The picture they showed had complete surface area. I think I will return the kit and buy the pads and shims individually if these are the normal pads that come with the kit.

NOTE: The kit 04465-AZ001-TM does NOT include full-size brake pads. This is why they are such a bargain. If you want the full-size pads as shown in Big Fish's first posts go with the part number 04465-35290. Shim kit is 04945-0C030.

Thanks for the follow up. I updated the first post to include more information on part # 04465-AZ001-TM, specifically the fact that the pads are chamfered and will not offer the same performance as the the pads in part # 04465-35290.

Looks like I should have all the parts by early next week to do the Tundra upgrade to 231 mm. I purchased speed bleeders to use when bleeding the brakes. Do the brakes need to be bled with wheels on and truck on ground? Or can they be bled with wheels off and truck on jack stands? Thanks.

No, you don't have to have the wheels on and the truck on the ground. There is no problem at all with bleeding the brakes while the truck is on jack stands.

 

[1KZ in MD]

Just learned the hard way, this measurement MT Classic II's DO NOT fit over the 231mm Tundra Caliper:

6x139.7 Rim Width: 8
Hub Bore: 4.25 Rim Diameter: 16
Rim Brand: Mickey Thompson Offset: 0

If you purchase the Classic II's be sure to go with the 4" backspacing. I thought I did enough homework but my Saturday morning proved otherwise. It wasn't even close, there wasn't nearly enough "dish" to the rim to even get the wheel on the hub.

 

[zooroadbaja]

Just learned the hard way, this measurement MT Classic II's DO NOT fit over the 231mm Tundra Caliper

I know the feeling, I had the same problem with my LC Rims, and then I bought 1/4 spacers which cleared but didn't leave enough thread to get the lug started. So I bought E/T Nuts which I still couldn't get threaded. So now I bought used 1.5" Wheel Spacers to hold me over until I can buy new rims and tires. Haven't tried yet to see if this fixes all my problems, but I don't see why it wouldn't.