Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

[gamefreakgc]

Random question but at what % does the front brakes use compared to the rear brakes? Reason I ask is because I've done the tundra swap and noticed while I step my brakes the front of the runner dips a lot as if the rear brakes are not working at all????

That's not because of your brakes but because of your suspension. As your struts and coils in the front wear out they will start to dip when you stop.

Probably what is happening is now that you have better brakes you can stop quicker and the momentum and weight of the vehicle causes more stress on the front end suspension, causing it to dip.

 

[JayRolla]

Its natural for the front to dip. Its weight transfer to the front end. Also your using brakes that are new and work better. So your probably not used to the hard braking.

 

[StreetCreeper]

Just finished reading all 522 post in this thread! Great read/extremely informative!

As I was reading, I began jotting down various questions regarding different aspects of this upgrade. Before I knew it, I had quite a few questions. However, after reading the entire thread, I have found the answers to all my questions (so far) except for a few minor ones.

Since I have learned (thxs to this thread) that I have the split 3 wheels, I know I'll need a couple of 1/4 spacers to allow the wheels to clear the calipers, but I'm curious if I need to include these spacers on the back wheels as well?

I know there isn't anything going on back there that needs spacers per say, but I'm just unsure if having the extra width up front from the spacers without the corresponding width in the rear would cause any kind of tracking or other similar issues? (dont laugh--I'm a total 4x4 noob :biggrin2

Also, I noticed one guy (post #479 page 32) had issues with the length of the wheel studs after adding a 1/4 spacer...is that to be expected with a 1/4inch spacer? Or is he just an isolated case?

Also, from my readings I have concluded that the 13WE & 13WL caliper are the same size caliper itself essentially, but they use different size pads (199mm VS 231mm). However, I see people mention that if the 13WL calipers wont fit their particular wheels, then use the smaller 13WE. So what gives? Is the 13WE physically smaller than the 13WL?

Last but not least, can a non-mechanical guy who has never done any work on brakes before, reasonably expect to be able to complete this job if he is studious and follows the instructions found here in this forum? Or am I in over my head for my first outing with knuckle busting?

 

[TBuzz]

Just finished reading all 522 post in this thread! Great read/extremely informative!

As I was reading, I began jotting down various questions regarding different aspects of this upgrade. Before I knew it, I had quite a few questions. However, after reading the entire thread, I have found the answers to all my questions (so far) except for a few minor ones.

Since I have learned (thxs to this thread) that I have the split 3 wheels, I know I'll need a couple of 1/4 spacers to allow the wheels to clear the calipers, but I'm curious if I need to include these spacers on the back wheels as well?

I know there isn't anything going on back there that needs spacers per say, but I'm just unsure if having the extra width up front from the spacers without the corresponding width in the rear would cause any kind of tracking or other similar issues? (dont laugh--I'm a total 4x4 noob :biggrin2

Also, I noticed one guy (post #479 page 32) had issues with the length of the wheel studs after adding a 1/4 spacer...is that to be expected with a 1/4inch spacer? Or is he just an isolated case?

Also, from my readings I have concluded that the 13WE & 13WL caliper are the same size caliper itself essentially, but they use different size pads (199mm VS 231mm). However, I see people mention that if the 13WL calipers wont fit their particular wheels, then use the smaller 13WE. So what gives? Is the 13WE physically smaller than the 13WL?

Last but not least, can a non-mechanical guy who has never done any work on brakes before, reasonably expect to be able to complete this job if he is studious and follows the instructions found here in this forum? Or am I in over my head for my first outing with knuckle busting?

Agreed this is a very valuable resource that was created, by [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION].

I read there is a difference in pad size and yes you can Likely do this job if you have done any other mechanical work. Changing brakes obviously much more involved than a brake light bulb or windshield wiper.

I'm in the same boat and at the same point as you trying to fit some 1996 lx 450 wheels over the 231's. I'm think the consensus is that the 1/4" spacer does leave the stud too short. Also there may be a vibration issue when using since they are not lug centric.

I really want to shave the caliper. The LX450 wheels fit so close that it won't take much. I can spin the wheel all the way up until I torque the lug nuts then it scrapes. I'm going to try and get a 231 calioer from the junkyard and cut it up and see what kind of meat is there to grind off.

Any chance somebody out there has one to do that to?

 

[JayRolla]

No you dont have to run the spacers in the rear. I run 1.25" front hub centric spacers to help clear my tundra brakes with 3 spoke wheels.

If if was me I would get some hub centric 1.25" spacers. They wont vibrate, will clear the brakes and will help any future larger tires clear the UCA. Also makes the front look a little more mean!

 

[StreetCreeper]

No you dont have to run the spacers in the rear. I run 1.25" front hub centric spacers to help clear my tundra brakes with 3 spoke wheels.

If if was me I would get some hub centric 1.25" spacers. They wont vibrate, will clear the brakes and will help any future larger tires clear the UCA. Also makes the front look a little more mean!

I had to google how the hub centric spacers were different than the regular wheel spacer. Looks good but it seems that it would make the front width quite noticeable in comparison to the back. Trying to picture it in my head but I'm not sure how noticeable a combined 2.5" would be.

Perhaps I'm over thinking it.

 

[JayRolla]

I had to google how the hub centric spacers were different than the regular wheel spacer. Looks good but it seems that it would make the front width quite noticeable in comparison to the back. Trying to picture it in my head but I'm not sure how noticeable a combined 2.5" would be.

Perhaps I'm over thinking it.

It does make it look a bit bigger, but not in a bad way. The good thing about not running rear spacers is that if you do flex her out the tires dont get hung up on the outside of the fender. I dont have a direct shot but this is how it looks. As you can see the front does look a bit wider. But SAS trucks look the same way, just makes it look tough IMO.

 

[StreetCreeper]

It does make it look a bit bigger, but not in a bad way. The good thing about not running rear spacers is that if you do flex her out the tires dont get hung up on the outside of the fender. I dont have a direct shot but this is how it looks. As you can see the front does look a bit wider. But SAS trucks look the same way, just makes it look tough IMO.

Looks good! Now that I think about it, I once had a 85 Chevy K5 blazer that seemed to have a slightly wider front stance than the rear.

Anyhow, it's good to know that the 1.25" spacers arent required for the rear. The ones I looked at were about $100 I think.

 

[wake_rider]

Gents, I did this upgrade with the Power Stop full kit, and I'm having some problems. The right caliper seems to be dragging a bit, and what's happening is that when the brakes are cold, I'm getting straight braking. However, when they get up to operating temp, the truck pulls pretty hard to the left (the side not dragging). I'm assuming that the heating up of the right roter (side dragging) is keeping it from being able to grab as effeciently as the left after warming up (right side getting too hot, then fading).

Could I have done something wrong with the install? Maybe the wrong pad order (does the pad with the indicator go on the inside of caliper or outside)? Could there be a problem with my bleeding, maybe with air in the right line keeping it from functioning correctly? Can the retaining springs/clips be in the wrong position or installed incorrectly? I don't really know where to start troubleshooting, so I'm blindly throwing darts.

I'll pull the tires tomorrow and take another gander at it. As of now, I'm annoyed.

 

[sanderson5]

Hey guys,

I realize this is probably a dumb question....but I am going to be doing this upgrade soon with the 5-star OEM wheels....

I plan on buying a 5th wheel to replace my spare and not have to deal with any front to back rotation in the event of a flat.

Question is will the 5star OEM fit underneath the car the same way as the factory spare does?

 

[kkjensen]

RockAuto parts?

I'm looking at doing this upgrade with parts via RockAuto as my pads are past due and rotors starting to get a little funky shake happening.

Everything I'm seeing under 2005 Tundra seems to be 12.55in (318mm)...am I missing something obvious? Would someone be so kind as to give me a reason for a facepalm for being blind? I'm in Canada and ordering the wrong stuff would really be a pain. :help:

cheers! Really looking forward to doing this!

 

[AZ_Trails]

Hey guys,

Question is will the 5star OEM fit underneath the car the same way as the factory spare does?

It sure will. I have five matching 5 stars, and rotate all 5 tires. No difference whatsoever from the stock steel spare.

 

[Greenbla1]

MT classic III?

I'm getting ready to do this upgrade. Has anyone one tried 16x8 Mickey Thompson classic III with 4.5 back spacing? The thread shows the classic and classic II fit so I'm hoping the III version does as well.

Thanks!

Dave

 

[Greenbla1]

I can confirm that the Mickey Thompson classic III 16x8 4.5 back spacing does fit with plenty of clearance with the 231mm tundra brakes.

Dave

 

[shootmymime]

ive got 2 pair of TBU calipers 13wl for sale in classified section, t4r items.

 

[Boom Headshot]

Here's a pic of the Callahan kit that's going on tomorrow. Nowhere on the caliper, rotor or pads does it say "Callahan" so it makes me wonder if they aren't just a wholesaler/distributor. They weren't even in a Callahan box. Why keep the factory goin if all I want is the goddamn box?! Look, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed I will, I got spare time...

 

[gamefreakgc]

The more I read into all this, the more I'm convinced I'm going OEM rotors, pads and calipers the whole way. I hate doing things twice, might as well do it once and never have to worry about it again.

 

[Robb235]

The more I read into all this, the more I'm convinced I'm going OEM rotors, pads and calipers the whole way. I hate doing things twice, might as well do it once and never have to worry about it again.

For what it's worth, I've had AutoZone pads, calipers, and rotors for over 2 years now, and I haven't had any issues. I've towed several 6'x12' uHaul trailers, and boats over some steep grades with these brakes, and haven't had to replace anything yet.

 

[CW007]

I did this conversion on my 99 SR5 and used a set of 2011 17x7 4Runner wheels as they had the same back spacing as the 1999 wheels so there was plenty of upper A arm clearance for the tires. See my album for pics

 

[thebrandon]

Procomp 7069 with 4 inch backspacing fits perfectly. Plenty of room for the brakes and a-arms.

This is with 285-75-16 tires.

Note I do have Total Chaos UCAs so that might make a slight difference, but I think the factory ones would fit just fine too...