Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
Any thoughts on this? I need to tow a 3350lb Ford Focus ST on a dolly next Friday and would like to upgrade the brakes before I do this (they are ready to be done anyway.)
thebrandon
New member
In my non-professional opinion, you will be fine...When you put a larger space on you remove at least that much thread anyway to hold the spacer on, which then has its own threads to hold the wheel on. Like you said, you will not be losing the ability to hold torque.
There are no threads on the 1/4" spacers. I'd be bolting on the wheel PLUS the spacer using the stock studs. AKA removing 1/4" of stud from within the nut.
1/4" Thick Wheel Spacer
1/4" Thick Wheel Spacer
thebrandon
New member
I know that. What I was saying is when you put on a wheel spacer with its own threads (NOT the 1/4"), just to bolt the spacer on you lose some thread anyway. You will be fine.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Unless you run a large spacer like 1.5" or larger. It uses the studs on the hub to connect to the spacers and then has new studs with the full length:
I just reserved pads, rotors and calipers from napa. They have a sale on right now plus a 10% discount if you reserve online. With fluid and taxes it will come out to $334 done.
Also ordered and overnighted a set of 4x 1/4" spacers and a front sway bar bushing kit from offroad wheelers. Total in hand price of $479 to take care of two jobs.
Also ordered and overnighted a set of 4x 1/4" spacers and a front sway bar bushing kit from offroad wheelers. Total in hand price of $479 to take care of two jobs.
Crap! I missed that post and they said nothing at the store when I picked them up this afternoon. Oh well, complete set of brakes plus lines and fluid for $350 ain't bad. Job was easy and only took extra time because both wheels where rusted solid to the rotors and one of the brake lines rounded.
Jhelms
New member
It is slightly more of a pain on a vehicle with a hard line but it is do-able.
- Remove the hard line from the brake line (recommend you replace the soft lines at this time anyways)
- Set the caliper on it's side with the port side up. As you fill it, sort of slosh it side to side and around to make sure any air is released. Do not try to fill it all at once, go slow. Set a towel on the ground and as you fill it, gently tap it on the towel / ground to help release air
- Once it is as full as it can get, then insert the hard line and tighten it. The hardline will be up when installing the caliper so fluid loss should be at a minimum
- Then bleed as normal
4 pots can be a pain as you have to fill both sides. When trying to do it on the vehicle, air can get trapped much more easily than say on a floating caliper with pistons on a single side.
- Remove the hard line from the brake line (recommend you replace the soft lines at this time anyways)
- Set the caliper on it's side with the port side up. As you fill it, sort of slosh it side to side and around to make sure any air is released. Do not try to fill it all at once, go slow. Set a towel on the ground and as you fill it, gently tap it on the towel / ground to help release air
- Once it is as full as it can get, then insert the hard line and tighten it. The hardline will be up when installing the caliper so fluid loss should be at a minimum
- Then bleed as normal
4 pots can be a pain as you have to fill both sides. When trying to do it on the vehicle, air can get trapped much more easily than say on a floating caliper with pistons on a single side.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I just bled it twice and didn't have to worry about it. Not like it's hard or anything. I bled it once when I put it together and then drove it around for a bit to bring the air to the top. Then I did the FSM procedure and bled it a second time. Solid.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Well, I have braking issues developing.
Just did the swap a few months ago and everything was going smooth. Have about 3k miles on the swap and now I'm getting vibration in the pedal when braking. However, it's very unique. It does not happen under hard braking or heavy downhill braking only under light braking. Under light braking, if I start to press in the pedal there's a "frequency" (for lack of a better term) where the front end and brake pedal vibrates. When I let off the brakes, it is more pronounced. The longer drive the vehicle the more pronounced it gets.
Any idea what's going on? I have:
Toyota Rotors
Toyota Pads
Toyota Shims (greased as directed)
Powerstop Calipers (reman'd)
Torqued all bolts to spec per FSM
Did a visual inspection, no leaks. Reservoir is good. No air in system (bled several times).
Just did the swap a few months ago and everything was going smooth. Have about 3k miles on the swap and now I'm getting vibration in the pedal when braking. However, it's very unique. It does not happen under hard braking or heavy downhill braking only under light braking. Under light braking, if I start to press in the pedal there's a "frequency" (for lack of a better term) where the front end and brake pedal vibrates. When I let off the brakes, it is more pronounced. The longer drive the vehicle the more pronounced it gets.
Any idea what's going on? I have:
Toyota Rotors
Toyota Pads
Toyota Shims (greased as directed)
Powerstop Calipers (reman'd)
Torqued all bolts to spec per FSM
Did a visual inspection, no leaks. Reservoir is good. No air in system (bled several times).
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Bueller? Bueller?
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