Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
JBurt
Senior Member
I'm about to rebuild mine. Here's a video on how to do it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoQlAW4DPnA
The oem rebuild kit is less than $15.
travisgonzalez
New member
Wanting to get method race wheels "the standard" wheels 16x8 will the 231mm upgrade fit?
travisgonzalez
New member
will the 231mm fit with 16x8 method race wheels the standard
Black_Mamba
New member
Check your offset/back spacing.
Most 16" will do the trick, with a few exceptions. I happen to not have any idea which those might be. It should have all the information you need in the first page. He had -11mm offset and 4" backspacing, giving JUST enough clearance. Any higher values of those two numbers and you'll Probably rub(meaning -10mm, -9mm, etc...; or 4.1" backspacing or larger). Increasing values means closer to the center of the vehicle. The lower the value, the further they'll stick out. In terms of wheel diameter, you should be just fine at 16".
Sorry for another "does this wheel work with the 231mm" reply but I read through the whole thread and didn't see confirmations of these wheels
Can someone confirm if they will work with the 231's. I'm not sure the name of these wheels. I believe they can on some FJ cruisers and 3rd/4th T4R's.
BFAD mentioned some 5 spoke FJ wheels that fit with spacers on page 1 but I wasn't sure if those were these. I went to the reference link he provided and it was just mentioned there with no picture confirmation so I couldn't tell if they were indeed my wheels.
Also, I've only heard a few people mention speed bleeder valves. Are they not worth it? (I've never bled brakes before)
Can someone confirm if they will work with the 231's. I'm not sure the name of these wheels. I believe they can on some FJ cruisers and 3rd/4th T4R's.
BFAD mentioned some 5 spoke FJ wheels that fit with spacers on page 1 but I wasn't sure if those were these. I went to the reference link he provided and it was just mentioned there with no picture confirmation so I couldn't tell if they were indeed my wheels.
Also, I've only heard a few people mention speed bleeder valves. Are they not worth it? (I've never bled brakes before)
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bass-o-matic
New member
4Running Daily
New member
bass-o-matic
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Tucson4runner
New member
I believe those are 16" so they should fit. Might need to still trim the rotors just a bit though.
TorqueOfTheDevil
Member
Yes I rebuild mine prior to fitting.. As mentioned above, the oem rebuild kits are cheap. I used a tyre air compressor to push the old pistons out.
Much easier than rebuilding and messing about with slide callipers.
Also to Add for the OP, thanks for a great thread.. I followed this when I did mine, but couldn't thank you then as I wasn't a forum member. It contained everything /I needed before committing and getting the callipers shipped across the pond.
+rep added.
bass-o-matic
New member
And you mean 16" right?
Let me rephrase that... I justu want to confirm that NO 15" factory wheels will work without grinding or spacers for the 231mm...
eg OEM 4-Runner "5-Star" wheels PIC
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TorqueOfTheDevil
Member
OEM 16" 5 stars (actually these are off a landcruiser Colorado.. but meh, same wheel) definitely fit over the 231mm callipers.
It's tight as hell, but they do go on and they do turn. I don't use spacers. An unfortunately placed balancing weight would catch though.
I can only go on heresy that that the "split 3 spoke" ones catch (I don't believe in grinding brakes or wheels)
Not a Photoshop.
Yes it does look dumb with lift on stock "tarmac" tyres.
These fit too and look way more awesomererer. :cheer2:
Dice valve caps add +200 bhp. (don't worry I took them off lol)
It's tight as hell, but they do go on and they do turn. I don't use spacers. An unfortunately placed balancing weight would catch though.
I can only go on heresy that that the "split 3 spoke" ones catch (I don't believe in grinding brakes or wheels)
Not a Photoshop.
Yes it does look dumb with lift on stock "tarmac" tyres.
These fit too and look way more awesomererer. :cheer2:
Dice valve caps add +200 bhp. (don't worry I took them off lol)
Attachments
Last edited:
TorqueOfTheDevil
Member
One was an uploaded file, one was externally hosted.
I can't control where the uploaded file goes as it always goes at the end... it was initially two separate posts but I didn't want to clutter up the tread...
Ironically saving one post has created two others
7069 vs 8069 clearance
Having trouble finding 16 in pro comp 8069 but the 7069 are available, appear to be the same just a flat finish. Anyone had any luck with those? Bought 2001 with 17 rims and used tires with no rubbing. Bought new tires before reading and I have lots of rubbing and some wobble. Did roadforce balance and two rims are bent and will not balance well. Want to switch back to 16 and do the 231 swap. Any input or concerns would be appreciated.
Having trouble finding 16 in pro comp 8069 but the 7069 are available, appear to be the same just a flat finish. Anyone had any luck with those? Bought 2001 with 17 rims and used tires with no rubbing. Bought new tires before reading and I have lots of rubbing and some wobble. Did roadforce balance and two rims are bent and will not balance well. Want to switch back to 16 and do the 231 swap. Any input or concerns would be appreciated.
AgeOfOctane
New member
Thanks BFAD for this write up! I just finished this upgrade on my new to me '96. A few small things I can add for anyone who reads this far into the thread...
I swapped out my split 3-spoke wheels for a set of 17" FJ Cruiser 8 holes which fit the brakes without issue.
I also had some rubbing issues with the rotor on the dust guard. Rather than trimming the guard, I just bent that part back a little. I did cut the dust guard to accommodate the calipers.
I bought the complete "POWER STOP KC232436 Z36 Extreme Performance Truck & Tow" from RockAuto and the rotors are cleanly cast and smooth, as well as drilled and slotted. It was $285 + an $80 core charge (hopefully they give it to me even though the calipers aren't the ones they shipped me). The pads are chamfered though, which isn't ideal, but certainly stop the truck well enough. I figure I'll switch to OEM for the pads after these wear out. At any rate, it was the best bang for the buck for me.
The only problem I had (sorry if this was mentioned already) is the Tundra calipers have less material for the mounting bolts to go through, which means the mounting bolts need to travel in a little deeper. Due to 20 years of corrosion on the steering knuckle, mine would not go in properly, so I bought an extra bolt, cut a few grooves across the threads to act as a tap, and drove it in and out of the steering knuckle to chase the threads out using an impact wrench and some PB blaster. A tap would obviously have worked, but I didn't want to hunt for one for a single use job.
I swapped out my split 3-spoke wheels for a set of 17" FJ Cruiser 8 holes which fit the brakes without issue.
I also had some rubbing issues with the rotor on the dust guard. Rather than trimming the guard, I just bent that part back a little. I did cut the dust guard to accommodate the calipers.
I bought the complete "POWER STOP KC232436 Z36 Extreme Performance Truck & Tow" from RockAuto and the rotors are cleanly cast and smooth, as well as drilled and slotted. It was $285 + an $80 core charge (hopefully they give it to me even though the calipers aren't the ones they shipped me). The pads are chamfered though, which isn't ideal, but certainly stop the truck well enough. I figure I'll switch to OEM for the pads after these wear out. At any rate, it was the best bang for the buck for me.
The only problem I had (sorry if this was mentioned already) is the Tundra calipers have less material for the mounting bolts to go through, which means the mounting bolts need to travel in a little deeper. Due to 20 years of corrosion on the steering knuckle, mine would not go in properly, so I bought an extra bolt, cut a few grooves across the threads to act as a tap, and drove it in and out of the steering knuckle to chase the threads out using an impact wrench and some PB blaster. A tap would obviously have worked, but I didn't want to hunt for one for a single use job.
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